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ugh.

Tough to get pumped about surfing today.
Shoulder-high onshore drivel.
Crumbly, hacked miserable ugliness.
But.. amidst all the crud and puke.. there are a smattering of partially hidden rideables.
While the vile, dastardly majority of waves chortled their unfriendly chorus of "beware" and "stay out", a stout-hearted few cried out to would-be surfers, "ride me!" "I want your smooth board to caress my velvet texture." "I want your strong hands to dig into my permeable exterior." "I want your feet to kick and thrash as your strive to catch me." "Stroke with vigor until you paddle into me." "Plummet my cleft and explore my inner cavern!" "Get deep in there and enjoy, Enjoy, ELATE!!"

umm... yeah..

anyhoo.. check out even more ridiculous shots of The End of the Road. Supposedly these waves were paddled into!! Fark!

Dorian Tow-in at Lindy

Keala Kennelly tow-in! (first ever at chopes by a female)

photos from the fish fry


They showed the video of the jetski just missing that guys head in tahiti on the news last night. Jesus Christ. I couldn't find the video on the internet though.

Posted by: joe O at May 3, 2005 10:06 AM

Here is some video footage of the near miss. While surfing in Tahiti, I met Reef. Interesting, now he is famous for almost killing Raimana Van Bastoloer

http://media.fairfax.com.au/?rid=15883

Posted by: at May 3, 2005 10:26 AM

Aloha,

Just wanted to drop a line to say that surf on Oahu has been all time this past month. Over 30 days of consistant surf on all shores, with a monster south swell heading in later this week. Sounds like conditions are still holding in the spring/summer transition at OB. Hope everyone has a summer surf trip planned. Smiles.

Posted by: bagus at May 3, 2005 10:29 AM

ah. i'm so glad i slept in. checked the wind last night before bed and it was blowing directly out of the west at a good clip. got up this morning and it was still blowing.

those waves are nuts!

i want to buy one of those fishies.

Posted by: lerm at May 3, 2005 10:32 AM

E - after reading your post, I had the strangest urge for a cigerette...

Posted by: Dennis at May 3, 2005 11:15 AM

The fish sure look pretty and I found it comforting and funny to see plenty of peeps sporting tiel, pink, red and orange fishes....and retro single fins and the like....didnt have the pleasure of seeing them on many waves though.....but man do those dudes look cool!!!!

Posted by: pez at May 3, 2005 11:46 AM

hey kloo saw your question yesterday re video card im pretty klooless myself when it comes to that kind of stuff and im not at work for 2 more weeks(where i could get an answer)..but ill try to find out and let you know..

the wind came back. quick thinking from that Raimana Van Bastoloer fellow.

if those 2 guys paddled into that second pick ill eat my hat.

Posted by: bagel at May 3, 2005 11:51 AM

That video is nuts! Good thing there was some chop at Chopes or that think would have railed Raimana.

Any word from Tom or is he still get $1 Bintangs and $1 massages down at Balangan?

Posted by: Kaiser at May 3, 2005 11:57 AM

Interviewer: What kinda stuff you been doing to keep yourself busy?

Dave: Man, I've been getting clean, basically. That's basically what has been the main time consuming thing for me...is getting sober. Being on the road was like...I'd be copping drugs in every city...kinda thing...don't really remember much of it, and I was basically headed to death...that's about what I've been doing.

When I was home for a long time, it's like I said, that boredom sets in. So what better way to pass the time is to, y'know, do drugs and get high and all that kinda stuff, and it wasn't even getting me high any more, it was just getting me well. I'd wake up in the morning sick, y'know...have to drive downtown, in my car and I'd be throwing up in my lap because I'm just so physically ill. And it got to the point where I just couldn't do it anymore, y'know? I saw my reflection in the oven one day when I was sitting on the kitchen floor, shootin' up, trying to fix, trying to hit a vein and I was vomiting all over myself and it was just the most appalling thing, I never could have pictured myself in any kind of state like that, and I knew I was just gonna die...I mean that's the basic simple truth y'know?

I'd be on the road, me and Eric would take planes from certain cities to go get drugs and come back. We'd be in Albaquerque, New Mexico, and there's no where to score there, so whaddaya do? You fly to New York, at like 5am and come back right before the show. Otherwise, you can't play. And it was just picking apart at my life, it was picking apart at my playing, y'know! I was basically an asshole to everybody and it just wasn't fun anymore...it was a job, that was more of a job than the band, and I couldn't deal with that, so I basically checked into a hospital...and been doing the same thing ever since.

This denial thing comes into it...I used to start off, I used to snort it and smoke it, and I told myself, O.K., I'm not a junkie. Junkies are gutter people with rings in their arms and I'm not doing that, so I'm fine, and it turned into me doing that every day. But I still told myself I wasn't a junkie. Then I would start shooting up into, like parts of my skin, y'know? Well, I'm not hitting a vein, I'm not a junkie, there's NO WAY, and then it finally, it just progressed into like, fucking mainlining every single day, and I said, I'm not a junkie, I could stop this ANY time. Which was just fucking lying to myself, y'know? I'd be fucked up and I'd play a show, thinking I was ripping all night, I'd hear the tape back, and it was just embarrassingly awful. So the next night, in order to compensate for that, I would say I wasn't loose enough or something, and get MORE fucked up, and it just wasn't the way to go...I was a zombie.

O.K., as far as the creativity aspect...a lot of people are under this impression that it tends to take away from that, and I have personally found that. For instance, I thought I was really weird guy, weird creative guy, when I was fucked up all the time, but I found that it actually hindered that, y'know? I'm a lot weirder and more creative now, than I ever was, because it's like all the channels are free to flow now. Whereas they were blocked, and I don't know how it is with other drugs. People say they take acid or whatever, and they see things that are amazing or whatever, but for me, it was heroin, which just basically deadens your brain and it just stops the flow.

No, I would say it has a lot to do with the self esteem of a person, whether or not you think you are capable of this, or if you need this help to get creative. I don't think that it's true--you gotta work on yourself. I was so oblivious to everybody and it was like, I didn't say anything to anybody, no one really said anything to me, as far as I know, y'know? But no one was complaining. Man, we all have our little quirks about us and so for me, that was mine, as far as what they're up to, I can't really talk about that, but I can tell you as far as I go...it was a nightmare. I mean, it just, it progressed from smoking pot when I was 11 years old, to, y'know, ending up in a trailer park in Reseda for a year, shooting heroin and coke every day.

Posted by: Dave Navarro at May 3, 2005 11:58 AM

decided to dp [ see next sentence ] despite conditions, what appeared to be very obvious lumpy little "peaks", upon paddling out turned into chaotic warbling from all directions, not unlike a Dr. Seuss landscape. Whether or not this was actually true, or due to hallucination from just 2 hrs sleep - also what made dping seem like a good idea - is unknown. Only 30 min in the soup, but thanks to sneak windchop attack found out that it is totally possible to slide down the entire face of a wave broadside, then spin around and face the proper direction at the very end. Since the longboard was totally committed and stable on the wave, I'm gonna pretend that smooth move was on purpose.

dog started growling at the wind...never a good sign unless you're a sailor.

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at May 3, 2005 12:07 PM

SS - Always humble. Of course you did it on purpose. Time to try the fin-first takeoff. BTW, I'm not Dennis.

Posted by: Chair: Sharkbait Fan Club at May 3, 2005 12:16 PM

Do you think you're a genius?

Yes, if there is such a thing as one, I am one. When did you realize that what you were doing transcended -- People like me are aware of their so-called genius at ten, eight, nine. . . . I always wondered, ``Why has nobody discovered me?'' In school, didn't they see that I'm cleverer than anybody in this school? That the teachers are stupid, too? That all they had was information that I didn't need? I got fuckin' lost in being at high school. I used to say to me auntie, ``You throw my fuckin' poetry out, and you'll regret it when I'm famous, '' and she threw the bastard stuff out. I never forgave her for not treating me like a fuckin' genius or whatever I was, when I was a child. It was obvious to me. Why didn't they put me in art school? Why didn't they train me? Why would they keep forcing me to be a fuckin' cowboy like the rest of them? I was different, I was always different. Why didn't anybody notice me? A couple of teachers would notice me, encourage me to be something or other, to draw or to paint - express myself. But most of the time they were trying to beat me into being a fuckin' dentist or a teacher. And then the fuckin' fans tried to beat me into being a fuckin' Beatle or an Engelbert Humperdinck, and the critics tried to beat me into being Paul McCartney.

How did you first get involved in LSD?

A dentist in London laid it on George, me and the wives, without telling us, at a dinner party at his house. He was a friend of George's and our dentist at the time, and he just put it in our coffee or something.

When you came down, what did you think?

I was pretty stoned for a month or two. The second time we had it was in L.A. We were on tour in one of those houses, Doris Day's house or wherever it was we used to stay, and the three of us took it, Ringo, George and I. Maybe Neil [Aspinall] and a couple of the Byrds - what's his name, the one in the Stills and Nash thing? - Crosby and the other guy who used to do the lead. McGuinn. I think they came, I'm not sure, on a few trips. Peter Fonda came, and that was another thing. He kept saying [in a whisper], ``I know what it's like to be dead.'' It was a sad song, an acidy song, I suppose. ``When I was a little boy'' . . . you see, a lot of early childhood was coming out, anyway.

So LSD started for you in 1964. How long did it go on?

It went on for years, I must have had a thousand trips. Literally a thousand, or a couple of hundred? A thousand - I used to just eat it all the time.

The other Beatles didn't get into LSD as much as you did?

George did. In L.A. the second time we took it, Paul felt very out of it because we are all a bit slightly cruel, sort of ``we're taking it, and you're not.'' But we kept seeing him, you know. We couldn't eat our food; I just couldn't manage it, just picking it up with our hands. There were all these people serving us in the house, and we were knocking food on the floor and all of that. It was a long time before Paul took it. I think George was pretty heavy on it; we are probably the most cracked. Paul is a bit more stable than George and I.

And straight?

I don't know about straight. Stable. I think LSD profoundly shocked him and Ringo. I think maybe they regret it.

Did you have many bad trips?

I had many. Jesus Christ, I stopped taking it because of that. I just couldn't stand it.

You got too afraid to take it?

It got like that, but then I stopped it for I don't know how long, and then I started taking it again just before I met Yoko. I got the message that I should destroy my ego, and I did, you know. I was slowly putting myself together round about Maharishi time. Bit by bit over a two-year period, I had destroyed me ego. I didn't believe I could do anything. I just was nothing. I was shit. Then Derek [Taylor, Apple press officer] tripped me out at his house after he got back from L.A. He sort of said, ``You're all right,'' and pointed out which songs I had written: ``You wrote this,'' and ``You said this,'' and ``You are intelligent, don't be frightened.'' The next week I went to Derek's with Yoko, and we tripped again, and she made me realize that I was me and that it's all right. That was it; I started fighting again, being a loudmouth again and saying, ``I can do this. Fuck it. This is what I want,'' you know. ``I want it, and don't put me down.'' I did this, so that's where I am now. At some point, right between `Help!' and `Hard Day's Night,' you got into drugs and got into doing drug songs. A Hard Day's Night, I was on pills. That's drugs, that's bigger drugs than pot. I started on pills when I was fifteen, no, since I was seventeen, since I became a musician. The only way to survive in Hamburg to play eight hours a night, was to take pills. The waiters gave you them - the pills and drink. I was a fucking dropped-down drunk in art school. Help! was where we turned on to pot, and we dropped drink, simple as that. I've always needed a drug to survive. The others, too, but I always had more, more pills, more of everything because I'm more crazy probably.

How do you think LSD affected your conception of the music? In general?

It was only another mirror. It wasn't a miracle. It was more of a visual thing and a therapy, looking at yourself a bit. It did all that. You know, I don't quite remember. But it didn't write the music. I write the music in the circumstances in which I'm in, whether it's on acid or in the water.

What was your experience with heroin?

It just was not too much fun. I never injected it or anything. We sniffed a little when we were in real pain. We got such a hard time from everyone, and I've had so much thrown at me and at Yoko, especially at Yoko. We took H because of what the Beatles and others were doing to us. But we got out of it.

Posted by: John Lennon at May 3, 2005 12:25 PM

Heavy interview. Chopes photos are nuts.

Posted by: Ian at May 3, 2005 12:31 PM

Posted by: bongzilla at May 3, 2005 12:42 PM

When the surf is down the music is up...

Just finished the Phil Lesh book. Nice little trip down memory lane. He's not a great writer though. An interesting aspect of the Dead is that their roots are largely in non-rock genres. Jazz, bluegrass, avante garde, folk, ballads, classical with a little Chuck Berry and Muddy Waters thrown in. Jerry is surely missed.

Posted by: at May 3, 2005 12:54 PM

I dont get it. Lennon sounds like an idiot. I guess I cannot appreciate or recognize genius. Sounds like he and Yoko were perfect for each other.

Posted by: at May 3, 2005 12:56 PM

at least jerry, to my knowledge, never took himself so bloody seriously.

Posted by: at May 3, 2005 12:59 PM

Posted by: ravi shankar fan at May 3, 2005 01:01 PM

i never dug on Lennon. He always came off as arrogant to me. I liked "Hey Jude" when i was a kid, but i think that's a Paul song?? Fave Beatles song is "I've got a Feeling." I think that's a Paul song too.

Jerry is the man. Humble and shreddy. Dark Star, China Cat, The Eleven! Love those jams.

music rules.

Posted by: e at May 3, 2005 01:05 PM

I liked George's songs pretty much. I gotta give credit to John for Imagine though. The Beatles did some really strange stuff. Yellow Submarine comes to mind. WTF was that?

Posted by: Dennis at May 3, 2005 01:23 PM

Imagine there's no heaven
It's easy if you try
No hell below us
Above us only sky
Imagine all the people
Living for today...

Imagine there's no countries
It isn't hard to do
Nothing to kill or die for
And no religion too
Imagine all the people
Living life in peace...

You may say I'm a dreamer
But I'm not the only one
I hope someday you'll join us
And the world will be as one

Imagine no possessions
I wonder if you can
No need for greed or hunger
A brotherhood of man
Imagine all the people
Sharing all the world...

You may say I'm a dreamer
But I'm not the only one
I hope someday you'll join us
And the world will live as one

Posted by: at May 3, 2005 01:34 PM

Yep, it still holds up.

Posted by: Dennis at May 3, 2005 01:40 PM

araghghagh!! computers!! coding!!! sitting for hours and hours! back hurts!! aragbhagh!!! 20 things all due yesterday!!! arsaghsagha;ljhs fasfjh klhjlakshf

Posted by: cubicle explosion!! at May 3, 2005 02:29 PM

This has been around for a while, but I especially like the guy in the cube next door:

go here:

href="http://www.holylemon.com/ComputerRage.html"

Posted by: Jack at May 3, 2005 02:46 PM

forgot to sign in...that was me with the Phil Lesh/Dead comment.

Lennon was the man. Changed the course of rock history. Incredible output for such a short period. The Beatles essentially existed for less than 10 years.


Last week I was listening to Plastic Ono Band. After the drama and trauma of Beatlemania he wrote this song:

God
God is a Concept by which
we measure our pain
I'll say it again
God is a Concept by which
we measure our pain
I don't believe in magic
I don't believe in I-ching
I don't believe in Bible
I don't believe in Tarot
I don't believe in Hitler
I don't believe in Jesus
I don't believe in Kennedy
I don't believe in Buddha
I don't believe in Mantra
I don't believe in Gita
I don't believe in Yoga
I don't believe in Kings
I don't believe in Elvis
I don't believe in Zimmerman
I don't believe in Beatles
I just believe in me...and that reality

The dream is over
What can I say?
the Dream is Over
Yesterday
I was the Dreamweaver
But now I'm reborn
I was the Walrus
But now I'm John
and so dear friends
you'll just have to carry on
The Dream is over

Still brings a chill when I listen to it.

Listen to "Mother" after knowing that his mother left him and was subsequently killed and his father abandoned him as a child.

Posted by: kdalle at May 3, 2005 02:47 PM

er ...check that:

http://www.holylemon.com/ComputerRage.html

Posted by: Jack at May 3, 2005 02:47 PM

farking ditto, cubicle explosion

Posted by: head explosion at May 3, 2005 02:53 PM

The passion of John's vocal on "Twist and Shout" is astounding -
so much energy and enthusiasm for something that is outwardly so trivial and insubstantial.
Wish I could surf like that.

Posted by: easily amused at May 3, 2005 03:03 PM

Is it gold, is it green, is it brown?
(No, it's Black C breakin em buds down)
Or should I say them indo clusters
Never want homegrown cause I'm a indo lover
Trip on the shit that I say
Or go take a trip to go get the shit
D to the a to the a to the n to the k
(Niggas know what's up) So what more can I say?
If it's in a zag or a pipe
It's quite expensive, so you better smoke it
right
Get a few niggas to fade
Find a cut, a chizurp in a shade
And like meat belongs to a meal
Grab a 40 with the dank cause it's time to get
ill
It's better than crack cocaine
It ain't medicine, but it'll ease the pain
And if you find right you're in luck
That and the Ides got you amped as fuck
Now for the journey or quest
And creepin for some sex but don't forget the
latex
Niggas like each other lesser and lesser
But on the dank tip let's come together
You call it herb, some call it sess
But if it's called bammer don't smoke that mess

Posted by: rbl posse at May 3, 2005 03:15 PM

Posted by: at May 3, 2005 03:18 PM

Revolver is still a great album.....no......tape....no......disc. imho.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at May 3, 2005 03:34 PM

Volcom Files To Go Public

http://www.twsbiz.com/twbiz/features/article/0,21214,1056500,00.html

Posted by: j at May 3, 2005 03:48 PM

Not cool posting that wedding stuff...as my cubicle mate now either knows I'm goofing off or thinks I find import terminal surveys funny.

Y'all are getting down on the summer. C'mon, surfing before and after work. And don't tell me you don't really, really appreciate the clean days when they come. So the navy sunrise table becomes more important than the FNMOC. But you can't tell me after surfing an hour of crumbly wind chop, catching that one, doubled up, well-shaped wave doesn't seem like perfection. If you ask me, biggest drawback is the fisherman who come out in droves. I talked to an eye surgeon who was surfing OB, and believe me, if you get hooked, just leave it in place. Let the doctors remove it.

Posted by: Andrew on 57th at May 3, 2005 03:50 PM

Liquid pic of Jamaica

Posted by: at May 3, 2005 03:55 PM

ok well travelled niceness heads, looking for advice for any willing to give. looking to head to costa rica, probably mid-september timeframe. thinking mal pais area, but any recommendations on locations, places to stay, ways to get there, etc. accepted.

hit me up, nitsuj@gmail.com if you don't feel like posting. thanks!

Posted by: j at May 3, 2005 03:56 PM

im a slug, i go to school, work in one class, and then ditch and go play guitar. then i get home and lay on the trampoline for 30 minutes thinking and not realizing that im laying there, and then I want to go surfing but can't cuz I can't get a ride. Grump so now im being a mouse-slug on the computer... And theres homework to be done... fuck that

Posted by: Slug at May 3, 2005 03:58 PM

I am planning a surf trip this July to the Mentawai Islands. Can anybody recommend a boat or agent to book with.

Posted by: Kevin at May 3, 2005 03:59 PM

sharkbait, you out there? how's it looking out the window? doable? seems like the winds are dying off. no?

Posted by: steamwand at May 3, 2005 04:06 PM

j,
gotta stop in at the hotel nosara, trippy architecture with a great surf break below the bluff,
also stayed with some youthful high energy argentinians running a cafe and a few cabinas down there el rey patricia near santa teresa

Posted by: tico man at May 3, 2005 04:06 PM

Last evening and this morning went off down here in S.C. .Healthy south swell in the water and good conditions.I thought at least one of you niceness jonesers would have mentioned it.Please come surf with me in the friendly Santa Cruz points.

Posted by: santa cruzer at May 3, 2005 04:09 PM

looks ok on the south ob cam but bumpy and shapeless on the north ob cam....yes on the report and blakestah can you chime in on the south.....

Posted by: pez at May 3, 2005 04:19 PM

something strange keeps happening to me at work. most every afternoon when I'm getting bored and eager to go home I check the clock and it reads 4:20.

what does this mean?!

Posted by: rza at May 3, 2005 04:27 PM

4:20 HO!

currently listening to that first Rage Against the Machine album (self titled). I know it's a sellout album and all that.. but.. That album is fucking tight! Love Morello's grinding riffs. Makes me want to trade in the creamy Fender amp for a Marshall stack.

Posted by: e at May 3, 2005 04:32 PM

How about some wrestling?

OK.....

Posted by: Kaiser at May 3, 2005 04:36 PM

winds way down but still midling onshore. Not warbled like this a.m. but hella crumbly, fyi

I often ask the fishermen what they're catching that day - am also genuinely curious - and then they're pretty cool. I'm sure that watching me careen sideways over waves also provides amusement during their prolonged stakeouts. It's the crabs that are non-negotiable. Nearly stepped square onto a HUGE farker today. It was waving all it's claws at me and laughing. I'm proud I didn't shriek.

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at May 3, 2005 04:44 PM

ladies, please, when i asked what was for dessert i didn't mean for you to cover yourself in chocolate

Posted by: j at May 3, 2005 04:49 PM

Thanks, bagel! I got a Radeon 9600 card, which seems to have done the trick, and the boy is Psychonauting away even as I type.

Posted by: kloo at May 3, 2005 07:43 PM

thanks kaiser

Posted by: at May 3, 2005 08:23 PM

Hey bagus,

I just got back from Oahu. Hell yeah Oahu was all time these past two weeks! Pipe was just INSANE last Friday! BIG and GNARLY! Yeah, I got pissed I had to leave and miss that large South. It's supposedly going to hit double overhead.

Posted by: MSG at May 4, 2005 09:28 AM
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