E's Surf Report

you hit it on the DOT.
except... al merrick didn't show up.

Wow, those are some heavy north winds. 25k+. I went out somewhere north of SC with a 101F fever this weekend. Did some really poor surfing. I don't recommend going out when you're sick -- it doesn't really clear your sinuses and now I have a massive pounding headache. Conditions were good though and on the drive up, I saw every beach was way crowded. I mean, GWC with 10 people?!?

Wake and bake - bong hits before sunrise - hearty imagination teetering around nature and fantasies about Tom Curren. Strange writing's - what does it mean?
What if in ten years the west coast became the east coast? It is happening as he speaks.
I'm have a contact high from E who is clearly also hitting the acid. Take up tennis.

Don't fuckin' step onto my tennis court you kook Dickey!!

tesy

I will tell you this - I was on an uncrowded SC wave only 150 yards from a very crowded SC wave. Literally 5 of us sharing this peak while 5 plus people dropped in on the same wave - and nobody kicked out...

yea as I surf through the shadow of the valley of tubes, thou art with me. Thy rod and thy banter, they comfort me. mind thy p's and thy q's, and I may grant you....blogging rights without end! Holier than thou

I know that Dicky likes to party.

Surf was not as fun as it should have been. A bit too much North in the Northeast. Choppy drops. Broke Leash. Two swims. Blah.

Jimmy Connors - HA! Good one dude.

Me say north wind good. Beter than hackey sacking big hairy balls cubicle to cubicle during the 15 minute break.
Anyone catch the shark feeding on the seal just to the south of 'Nories' ?

Working on a new screenplay - whwaddaya guys think:

OPENING:

An imitation leopard skin drum set fills the back seat. The
trunk is tied down with all manner of unorganized gear which
bounces down the highway.

A couple of dilapidated and badly dinged surfboards stick up
in the back seat.

These two stoned and disillusioned musicians are heading
west, destination Hollywood, California. They've got pie in
the sky dreams of making it big in the music biz. Too bad
they're 15 years behind the times or maybe 15 years ahead of
their time? Go figure.

Dink sits in the passenger seat strumming a sunburst painted,
1962 Les Paul with humbucker pick-ups and a white turtle
shell pick guard.

Johnny steers the wheel of the caddy with his knees and beats
on the dashboard with a pair of worn drumsticks.

With watery eyes they pass a bong hose back and forth to each
other taking huge hits.

Johnny rummages through the available radio stations in this
vast desert wasteland. He only manages to find country music
anywhere on the dial.

crappy

saturday at sloat was probably the worst size-to-paddle ratio i've ever experienced.

pretty fun waves though.

bbr. i'll second that!

The winds are crazy right now.

Doof, friend #1, and Blakestah scored bigtime in SC. Kudos to youz. Nice writing Doof.

I made an attempt at mid-beach sat and after 10 minutes of paddling found myself about 20 yards from the beach. I wasn't even drifting. Just stuck in the same place. Got out of the water and decided south looked easier. As I walked up the beach, I turned to look at the water and there were no waves breaking where I just got pounded for 10 minutes...

Anyway, the south end wasn't too bad getting out. Sat on the outside--waaay outside, for awhile. Paddled for a couple that never quite broke on the outer bar. Then one did. While I was slightly too far inside of course. Thump. Made it out again and caught one just as it was jacking up. Got to my feet and rode about 50 yards straight in cuz the wave nver broke. Then I caught a fat reform on the inside and called it a day.

maybe some good lefts out there with those winds.

How about this one:
Old man wakes up in his van scratches his balding head and wonders how hes going to spend his day, again. He got laid off from his skateboard painting job in venice in 1973 and has been living in his van at fort point San Francisco ever since. He has all he needs, his oversized surfboard, his girlfriend, his buddies, and his most prized possesion; the movie script that he stated writing after he lost his job, it's his meal ticket, as soon as he gets it to his buddy in LA who knows Tom Hanks everythings gonna change. His girlfriend, a unique looking 57 year old lady grunts and shoos away the chinese food box that was on the floor next to her face. She accidentaly kicks the empty vodka bottle out of the vans sliding door, the glass does not break but makes a noise and rolls to a quick stop. She supports herself on the wheel well and rubs her face. they've been together since they met at surf art show in 1985 he had a piece in the show called, "go to hell". "..Bob?" she says softly, her eyebrows then quickly point downward and she screams, "ARE YOU USING MY LAPTOP AGAIN!?!"

psyched for your show tomorrow night e! good luck! should be awesome. i'm not sure i can make it, but i may try. tis the night before my first day of work though, so we'll have to see. rip it up Ernest!

Hey 3 to 5, I lost your email ! Please send, I have a minor matter re:wetsuit. Thanks!

Dennis your description nailed 99% of my surf sessions around here. Heh! Feeling 1% less kooky.

bizarre gusty offshores at OB! Weird, loud day.

Mickey Dora it's quite funny that you would tell someone to "take up tennis". You seem to think surfers should get preferential treatment or discriminated against depending on where they were born or where their parents were born - sounds to me like you'd like country club rules. You should take up tennis, golf and/or polo and join an exclusive country club, then you won't have to deal with the frustration of the free ocean.

Sat and Sun were both strangely tough paddles-out mid-beach for me, though I finally lucked into lulls both days, and the reward was an okay, chubby, onshore-groomed ride or two on the outside. I was pretty whipped this morning so couldn't generate the spunk to attack those blustery waves when I saw them. Saw one guy out mid-beach madly paddling around and getting pretty good rides, and I realized I didn't have the wheels for that. Did the drive and grabbed a few clean ones at the smallest spot on the coast.

Yesterday on Sloat Ave., noon-ish, I found a surf item that'd fallen off someone's car. Let me know if you're missing something.

BVB - Please let me give you a hug..

friday evening surf: glassy, barrels, sun beaming down, no crowds, new board, and 2 friends = perfection

hope everyone got some!

s.s. 'you have mail'

joc - try not to develop road rage enduring your commute. get barrelled in your cubicle.

yes friday was nice..sunday was OK..

nice girl drawings up there. this guys good

j.o.c!! no way homie. Nice on the job aquisition!! Congrats! Sorry we didn't hook up this weekend. I thought about heading to the Independent on Saturday night but proceeded to konk out around 9:30!

hope to see you tomorrow. No worries if you don't make it. My couch is open if you need a spot to crash.

Quite possibly one of the most memorable sessions of my life

Ditto on the girl pics. I have a copy of one of the issues of his Ice Cream sketchbooks kicking around somewhere. Good stuff.

With exception to La Jolla why is it that such a surf rich stretch of coastline like SC is also abundant with just as many idiots?

AS, That was also one of my most memorable seshes, went out at the hook and I pulled off a wave at the pier. Epic, and a long walk back. I took some black and whites, should get em soon, it was too hazy for color film.

Where's the link to those Ghostrees photos from last week? Those were insane.

Nothing like draining a pool and skating high on coke.

Story here, just click.

AS, MEXI - That is so %&*%^% beautiful that you guys got the point like that. After all, with all the transplants, crowds, dickheads, etc, the days of good sessions are supposed to be over. It just goes to show... well it shows something. I dont know what the fuck it shows, but good on ya. Bastards...

e, good luck with the show manana. I may try and swing by to hear some heady licks. Weeerd.

Who's the skinny white dude with the red longboard at Ft. Point who rides in a white van driven by a guy who looks like his dad? I saw him come totally unglued last Thursday. He was screaming at multiple people in the lineup and then almost got in a fight with the guy driving the van he rode in. Serious hostility issues...

dammit, that pic of the point pisses me off..

cause i wasnt there...

post pics mexi, pulleeeaaaasss!!!!

slappy

The Pescadero Point/Ghost Trees link, note the story about visiting Aussie charger Jughead breaking a leg in 4 places with the bone sticking out of his wetsuit.

IMHO that place is way heavier than any of the other big wave spots. Although my opinion is purely based from the land point of view.

http://home.comcast.net/~melissawayne2002/pesky%20point%20030905

Davo,
Not sure if this is the link you are looking for but it has cool pics of ghost tree from last week.

I hear some people have had trouble opening it...maybe try an explorer browser cause it seems to work for me and that is what I use.

http://home.comcast.net/~melissawayne2002/pesky%20point%20030905

"Blue Ribbon Pools" hahaha.... nice find kookdom

i get some crazy code mixed in with that story (unless bvb wrote it) and i cant see the pictures..waa

My best bud is up in Cordova AK heliboarding right now and the aussie photog that was with Justen Allport got up there last night and all he could talk about was Ghost Trees and how gnarly it was. I guess he gave all the heli peeps a killer slide show, my friend said everybody was floored by the pics.

Another link, basically same story

http://www.surfersvillage.com/news.asp?Id_news=15973

taylor knox

jessy merle

Joe Curren

thanks reality check..that place sounds nutty

Bagel.. Lerm and i looked for you yesterday. We surfed about 30 minutes after you called. We saw a guy with a red board get a good one but it then we realized it wasn't you.

ya? i had my tri fin white yesterday..i thought i might have seen you guys but same deal for me too...it was OK i ended up being out for a while though..

ya.. i was digging it out there but i broke my leash after about an hour and came in. Got a few rides but got slammed a bunch too.

Damn Mexi, that sesh sounded insane. Did you actually get a single ride all the way to capitola from the hook? I didn't think that was possible. I was hitting up the west side Monday through Thursday. It was fun and good sized, but not lining up perfectly, and the eastward current from getchells through mitchells made for a gruelling constant paddle.

I finally wised up and hit up the Hook on Friday. It was fun head-high and really lining up nicely. Plenty crowded, but still got a several really long ones. but not nearly big enough for any epic-length rides through shark's cove and beyond.

The truth is: it took me an hour to get that one epic wave. Patience is a virtue.

nice photos AS.. thanks.

sick wave mexisurf.

I returned from Costa Rica on Tuesday morning, slept all day, then drove to SC the next day to find the biggest swell of the winter (?) hitting NorCal. Just goes to prove that you can travel across countries to find waves, but nothing beats your home break when it's firing.

That guy is the white van is named Ted. What else?

I got two waves that Weds, a short one from the second take off spot at the hook to just before Privates, than from way outside Privates to the pier. The current was super strong, and I was very satisfied so I went in. Crowd was spread thin and had I paddled out a little and around the pier it was possible to catch another wave to New Brighton. The last time I saw waves like this here was in 98'. These really were one in a few year waves.

I'll post when the film is ready, it's Scala film so it takes a long time.

The Beach is fun, go get some.

what a weird wind...this a.m. was a HUGE
disappointment. oh well manana, manana....

can't wait to see the pics, mexi.

cheers folks....

Thanks for the Ghost Tree link. Insane.

Damn, I wish I checked the east side on Wednesday...

Late evening blog hog post with shots from Sunday of my little toe-head friend and others. I'm not sure I understand the SC dissin'. Go on a slightly higher tide and wait. There's always a shift change and a spot where you can park and trade world class waves with a few other guys. How many 100 yard rides do you need to make it worth the drive? Show a pinch of respect and the locals are mostly cool.

Look at those clown boards from SC. At least they are rippin.

wake up. Time to wash those toxins right out of your brain. See you.

sorry guys to use this site for this ... have been trying to hook back up with John Kaiser for a couple of years, anyone have info pls let me know insanityreigns4@hotmail.com

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