E's Surf Report

raaahadical..i didnt recongnize you for a while either what happened?..nice scoring..almost surf time for me..4:30 am? you so crazy..never get an oam fin system either..

Off Topic sort of; Heady questions for you.

Are bloggers journalists? Should journalists need to be licensed as such? Do blog sites have the right to publish trade secrets and call it journalism. Will I ever find my other sock?

http://biz.yahoo.com/special/blog05.html

I've been out of the water for 10 days, due to bad timing mostly, and my skin is starting to crack!

my job is not as fun as surfboard riding...

Two things I admire about the pic of Potz above: the six-pack and a full head of hair.

Nice pics!

Yesterday was fun and big. Got out of the water to where my keys *were* and there were these tire tracks over them. Hmmm. Find out that the beach cleanup tractor scooped up my keys along with the other junk. Sifted thru some debris at the lifeguard stand, no luck, waves are still firing, can't get into my car, no wallet. Have to walk back 50 blocks, then uphill to my house in just my fucking wetsuit and with my board. Luckily it's a 5'10". Wetsuit rash. Sunburnt. Suuuuuuucked. But the waves were amazing.

Huge this morning again while i drove by with my rashed up, sunburnt, tail between my legs.

Gotta get a new system for my keys.

dennis: an answer on the journo question.

AM. SC session, not a great morning down there. a lot of lumpiness and wierdness on the building tide. word was that it was all time last night on the low tide. imagine more of the same as the tide gets low again.
Rincon is probably all time right now. sucks to not be there with 250 of my closest friends.

Huge Ghostrees

I lost a pair of flip-flops to beach clean-up. Luckily they were of $6 payless variety and not the $60. And that 4 blocks I had to walk home was killer.

I shouldn't make fun. I've had my whole car stolen since moving to Oakland. On the upside, I've placed an order for my kite. No longer shall the wind be my nemesis.

HB,

I have a key vault ($24.95) that hangs on the door outside my house for house keys. It would be easier to break into the house than to break into the key vault. The leash does a good job for the car key. It seems crazy to me to do it any other way. People watch when and where you hide keys. Can't we all just carry our keys?

Anon, interesting article. It provides an answer, but I'm not convinced it provides the best answer.

good god

i've been barred by work the last few days but this afternoon i should be on it somewhere. got a call yesterday from ventura from my friend who score a certain spot double overhead and reeling.... bastard

Whoa, Ghost trees!! (sounds like a episode of scooby doo) I've haven't heard of the place til a few days ago, Massive, and looks more specator friendly than clinging to the side of a bluff. Anyone know what kind of break it is?

dubby - check out the latest TSJ for a full article on Ghost trees. It's a gnarly reef/point.

bbr - surfed with your friend the other day (tuesday). Short hair. Tallish and skinny, wiry dude. Solid surfer... quick and radical. Don't remember his name. I think he went to high school with you. I've surfed with him many many times over the years. He's always real mellow in the lineup but he rips super hard. Always great to see a chill guy who kills it.

Here's an interview with Don Curry about surfing big waves at Pescadero Point, from Surfpulse a couple of years ago.

http://www.surfpulse.com/pescadero.shtml

Word! Will look for it, thanks E.

e, are you talking about baird? yeah that guy rips, one of the better surfers i've seen out at OB.

Nice old school pics, E!

Ghost Trees looks almost like more fun than Jaws.

Im outta work in a few myself to go to SC for the low...I need a good epic surf about now.

so jealous of all you peeps hitting the southern reefs, been dreaming of it and will have to continue to do so. wife picked a burnt weekend to plan the trip to Tahoe, doesn't she check the surf forecasts?

jesus....this wave is so large you can barely see the guy...

If anyone has any time tonight and happens to be cruising around the Marina, swing down and check out our band that is often compared to a combination of Sublime and Jack Johnson. We're Bag of Toys...

http://www.bagoftoysmusic.com

I just figured some of you guys might dig us. That is all...over and out.

Tait

mama mia

this is going to be killer!

yeah i'm really looking forward to Sin City, and i also hope the new Batman movie comes correct

indo - tsunami-wrecked village

First surf ever

yes, i have high hopes for sin city and batman..though robert rodriguez is directing sin city..wasnt happy to hear that..

sorry to sandwich those cool indo shots with shitty movies and hot chicks

guess that didnt work..heres the other hot chick of which i just spake

Maui. Maui....Hope to get some of these while I'm there, but most likely not in July.

ahh...the bay. gotta love it

Sneaked out early yesterday to the West Side.
Damn- pretty solid, although nothing compared to Ghosttrees, let's just say it was a good day for surfboard manufactures and repair shops.

Saw 2 guys in a jetski try to make it over a set and get tossed, backwards caught in the lip!

A few waves, a broken board and a thrashing later managed to get a few crappy shots of the spot before it was dark (Last 4 in the series)

Robert Tait- I went to your site and enjoyed listening to your tunes. Thanks for sharing. Hopefully Ill check out the band sometime.

nice shots artifact

I'd like a long glassy head-high wave right about now.

California

Was on my big wave gun (i.e. my road bike as surf with this size swell is beyond my skill level) and decided to check out highly visible local spot. Saw one guy get pulled out with the tide and washed around on the rocks for a few cycles. He escapes and almost gets back to the lineup, but then gets caught in a rip and goes out with the tide again and out of sight. Thought he was Baker Beach bound for sure. Thankfully he walked through the fence near the construction site several minutes later. Good reminder for a beginner.

Forecasted record high temps for today vs. the old record and date.

SANTA ROSA 82 (1934) 84*
SAN RAFAEL 76 (1959) 82*
SAN FRANCISCO 81 (2004) 78
OAKLAND 80 (2004) 80*
MOFFETT FIELD 79 (2004) 80*
SAN JOSE 78 (1959) 82*
SANTA CRUZ 78 (1959) 80*
MONTEREY 77 (1959) 79*
KING CITY 84 (1934) 87*

Yeah, OAM leashes suck (once one came loose from me and my board got pretty mangled on rocks). Hope one didn't wreck your session.

SURRRRRRRRRRRRRRFFFF! PLEASE!

It's a cool 65 degrees in my cube right now...

mexi point yesterday... if the image shows up

I once had an OAM leash as well. It wouldn't even stay on when put up against ankle slappers during the walk out before the paddle out.. It is now being used by some grom in Centro (hopefully one with really tiny ankles)...

Also had a OAM boardbag. The handle straps broke off it the first time I used it - while walking with my board to the flight counter!!!

Thanks Traut! Thanks for taking the time to listen!

SF Surf Report 3/9/2005

It all started yesterday with Friend #1 mentioning a surf report from a fellow who had decided to pass on the Ocean Beach paddlefest and take in one of the reefs south of Natural Bridges in Santa Cruz.

Friend #1 said the surf report sounded great and, “since tomorrow will be bigger, it could be even better.” And as this place reputably works better on a lower tide, I’d have to take the afternoon off if I wanted to tag along

“Well, I’m a little behind with work, my nephew from Orange County is in town so I’ve got that to take into consideration, and I don’t know how clean the swell will be, I’m gonna have to think about it.”

So I thought about it that afternoon, that evening, and on the morning of the 9th, listen to the crackly robot sounds from the Radio Shack weather radio.

The voice told me to put the gear it the car and just deal with the parking.

About an hour after I had to crush the hopes of some poor businessman about meeting some esoteric requirements of California State law, Friend #1 pops in with a quizzical look. “Well?”

“Yep, I’m in, the leave slip is in, the excuse has been preset. Now, are we going in my car or yours? I’ve got my stuff with me.”

“Umm, mind if Blakestah comes along?”

“No. He knows where were going?”

“Yes. And we’ll should go in your car, and I can park at your place since there is decent parking and it is close to the freeway.”

“Alright. Are we picking Blakestah up, or what?

“He’ll call you on how to get to directions to your place.”

“I see.” I think someone has thought more about this than I have.

We all meet up at my house. Friend #1 has his 8’10”, Blakestah has his 8’0’ and I bring my 7’6”. Remembering the buoy report from the morning, and looking at the other boards about to be strapped to the surf rack, I wonder if I should take my 8’6”. Friend #1 says to take it. Blakestah says that he would take a 7’6” if he had one. I start to get the 8’6”, then change my mind, remembering the last time I thought it would be huge in Santa Cruz, only to get there to find out a 7’6” would have been plenty.
We load up the gear, point the car south and bolt down 280 to 85 to 17 to 1 then side streets to the spot.

A quick check shows plenty of swell, a fair bit of wind, and more sections than I would have thought should have been there, considering the tide and the size. Learn something new all the time.

We suit up, make the climb down and wade out. The crowd is scattered with a few clumps here and there. I am surprised by how good the shape is on the inside, and that is where the bigger groups of surfers are. Usually when I surf here, these inside spots have thinner crowds with more people on the outer breaks. Is it really that big that people are scared to the inside? Or is the shape better because there is less wind effect on the inside?

Blakestah, Friend #1, and I all paddled out about 20 yards from each other. Within moments, we lose sight of each other as we duck dive through the rolling soup and get pushed down along the edge of the reef. The sins I have yet to atone for means I see Friend #1 sneak to the right and Blakestah sweeps wide to the left of the inside peak that rears up and pounds me.

But the water is warmer here, and the punishment is light, and all it means is that I am three minutes behind the two of them at the main outside break.

There are about 10 others scattered around, some on the mushy right that can sometimes lead into the bombing, down-the-line-full-blast run, and then there are others waiting for the one wave that swings wide for the big drop and better chance at the high-speed down-the-line-run that allows for a few solid cut backs. Friend #1 and Blakestah were at the former, I was at the latter.

As I paddled around every few minutes in hopes of staying close to what I thought was a take-off spot, I battled thick kelp and pesky side-shore chop. I had ample time to watch people get a few good rides, many ok rides, and more than enough of people paddling hard but not getting into the wave.

Friend #1 seemed to be in the ‘almost catching a wave’ group, and Blakestah, he seems to get a few before I got my first one.

When I did get my first wave, I had finally gotten too fed up with watching and had paddled over to the mushier right, and essentially clawed my way into a wave. I had to fight my way down the face of it and just as I popped to my feet, some of the chop coming up the front nearly made me pearl, and after I overcame that, my rail almost lost adhesion to the wave face as I carved the bottom turn. I spazzed my arms all about and felt like I was doing deep knee bends to maintain forward motion and then I was in the clear, so much so I had time to gesture to Blakestah on the shoulder. Then I moved into full trim with style restored and set up for the run. Alas, I was too far behind the section starting to build, and no amount of machinations would help, so I rode up high, and then cut back into a pitching left for a beating.

Well, turns out, it wasn’t much of a beating, I didn’t touch reef, and I made it right back out. Oh the ease of it all! If I surfed places like this all the time, no way in hell would I want to bother with Ocean Beach.

My next wave was a lot like my first, except I had a much cleaner entry and had a sharper, more in control feel. I nearly was able to backdoor the section that tripped me up on my previous wave. As the lid was being clamped down on my back, I saw two guys make the drop 15 feet down the line, and thought to myself, “No wonder there is a cluster of surfers at this spot, no one from the outside is making it through this section.”

With the wave on my back shoving me underwater, this time I had to pay for my ride. A bit of kelp lashing on my face followed by two or three more peaks on my head was the price. Oh, and then there was the guy on the green board that made the drop but couldn’t pull off the bottom turn who gave me a minor fright. Thankfully my paddling purposely into the whitewater and his exaggerated lean which finally set his rail, allowed us to miss each other by a good 15 ft or so.

The paddle back out after that was relaxing, because I knew once I was past the edge of the reef, I didn’t have to worry. How many times have I felt that way during a big day at Ocean Beach? I don’t know for certain, but I do know that is the wrong sort of attitude for there….it just sets you up to take the biggest set of the day on your head.

I passed a triad of near identical surfers on their sub 7 footers and I heard them talking about how they should have brought out bigger boards. Some older guys were remarking how far out they were. Some guys in their 30s were cracking wise about others on their guns. I left them behind and paddled back to the smaller group way out at the point.

About a minute after I made I back, I saw a huge set start to stack up. The biggest set of the day so far, if only because this is the one that was swinging wide and if I didn’t move, I’d find out how strong my leash plug really is. Apparently, everyone else felt the same way and we all steamed out. One guy, who had been waayyyy the fuck out there from the beginning went for it, but I have no idea what happen as I was more intent on aiming for the ‘new’ edge of the reef. Briefly I wondered if he went left. I saw another two about to get plowed under, and once guy barely made the duck-dive.

The rest for the set didn’t follow that one in swinging wide, and I was too far out of position to try for any of the following waves. At least I was in a good position to see one guy get an amazing drop. Then as I looked toward land, the wave passed under and rose up on the shoulder. Inside, everyone was scrambling. Guess the first one that swung wide cleaned up a good number and pushed them far enough so that if they didn’t stroke harder, they were going to be hit again.

I smiled the smile of someone who had just been there.
A couple of more big sets march through, and I halfheartedly paddle for one, making sure that if the guy closer to the peak mucks it up, I have a shot at it. No such luck, but I do notice that the wind has switched to offshore. About 10 minutes later, the wind’s effect can be seen in the water; the chop is shrinking.

A fellow paddles by me and starts talking about the waves and how he wishes he had his gun with him because it is the only way to get into the really big ones. I nod and he paddles off.

Friend#1 goes on a big one. Just as he is getting to his feet, he gets bumped off balance, and ends up going left, or from my point of view, straight in.

The horizon shifts minutely. A new set is moving in. I hope one swings wide, and I slowly move out and to the left, hoping I don’t’ cause suspicion. About 10 seconds later, everyone sees it coming. The positioning battle starts.

First wave of the set moves through the standard outside take-off zone. Someone goes, they are a little late. Blakestah? Then I’m over the back and see no more but the next waves bearing down.

My 10-second head start has given me a slight advantage. Some guy is angling hard to get over to me so I have to paddle a bit farther out and then cut in, hoping to snag the peak. I put my head down and dig, feel the wave start to lift me. Raising my head, I see the guy inside of me looking over his shoulder, winding up his own paddling; he’s intent on finding any flaws in my motion. The wave jacks up, one more stroke, the bottom drops, I pop up to a crouch to keep the wind from blowing me out the back, the guy to my inside backs out, and down the face of the wave I go. It is a long way down. I hear hooting and see the crowd crawling out of my way as I zip towards them from out of the bottom turn. A deep spot forces me to cut back as the wave flattens. Ahead, a boil marks the spot that has trapped me the last two times. As the wave had swung wide, it appears I don’t have as much to worry about with this section. Still, I pump the board hard, fly over the boil, deal with sudden drop-out with a sense of studied calm (and my foot way back to keep the nose up), then it is off to the races yet again. Up ahead is another knot of surfers which means another section is in the works. Speeding along, confidence builds and I have the idea I that a stand-up barrel is ripe for the plucking when the wave backs off suddenly, the wind gusts a bit harder, and before I can cut back, I am left behind.

From the back, it looks like the wave starts to build immediately.

Sigh.

It is a long paddle back to the top of the food chain.

Friend #1 is there, no Blakestah. Later I find Blakestah fell on a wave, got pile-driven, and had the string from his leash rip a pie-shaped slice through his rail. And this was after he retied the string back by the care because Friend #1 had remarked that it looked like the string was looped too long and didn’t let the railsaver engage properly.

Checking my watch, I see it is time to go. My nephew is in town and I promised that I’d take him to the Futureheads at Amoeba on Haight St. at 7 PM. There is traffic to deal with and good set of miles to deal with.

10 minutes later, another really big set stacks up and again paddle out, hoping one swings wide.

The first one winds up on the main take-off spot, and someone get a triple overhead drop. As I go up and over the shoulder, I see the3rd wave starting to swing wide, while the second one follows the first. I have no idea if anyone goes or not as I furiously paddle out to sea.

The reward is a beaut of a wave. It is swinging wide and building. I grind out a few more strokes, sit up, crank the board around and go all out. While this is happening, I head people are screaming from the inside and over by the primary peak.

“GO! GO! GO!”

As I drop, I have to fight the residual bumps caused by the water sucking off the reef. I cat the bottom turn well before a boil up ahead and as the wave moves over it, to seems to grow in size before throwing out. I’m right the pocket, powering along the wall about a surfboard length ahead of where the curl it hitting. A better surfer would be tucked behind the veil, but I am nervous about getting bucked off or shut down by a section, and besides, I’m going too fast to do much except enjoy the ride and avoid the huge clumps of kelp and surfers coming up.

Kelp is a rarity in my surfing so my only strategy is avoid it if I can, which as it turns out I don’t. In part this is due to the crowd in my way, the rest of the reason why I don’t is because the wave backs off a little forcing me to cut back sooner than I had hoped and that move put me right on top of it. Kelp drags me, the wave catches up, I squat down, readying myself to take the whitewater hit. Turns out I should have gone down with more poise than to be blasted in the squat position.

Flounder for a wave or two, but snag a shoulder high insider to the sandy shore, relaxing the rest of the.

Blakestah is on the edge of the bluff already. Says that looked like a good wave for the first 3rd of it, and you know, it really was.

About 20 to 30 minutes later, Friend #1 make his way back to the car.

We enjoy the post surf talk all the way home. And I get my nephew to the Futureheads on time.

Wow, what verbiage....

It wasn't connecting sections like it can.

The wind was light onshore when we got there, then light offshore when we left. It was starting to smoke right when I fragged my no-tail-kick-gun surfboard.

The other real unusual thing was the long, steep, and seemingly slow, drops. It was like standing straight up but not breaking for like 50 yards!

thanks doof.. good readin'

Yeah, Doof! That was so fun to read.

Mr. Doof! I've never really liked reading about surfing, but that essay was quite entertaining and evocative. Thanks!

Oh, and maybe an hour ago some guy paddled out into mid beach. Holy Hell.

i was contemplating it. the paddle.
but would have prefered some company.
my gut said hold out, my head and eyes said GO GO GO.
i went.

home.

oh manana, me gusto.

doof...nice work. good prose.

Doof, friend #1 and blakestah-glad you got some. Couldn't do it yesterday but was on 1st peak today for a few hours. Guys said it was about the same size as yesterday. Fun big ones outside but not as clean as Tuesday. Connected a few and man is that an endurance test. Swell definitely dropping by the time I left.

Over and out. Keep surfing no matter what.

Hey Doof & Company
-Sounds like we shared a peak yesterday. Nice words and a good read, definately captured the vibe out there- took me right back. Now if I can only get out of this cube...

kdalle,
somehow you always connect and I never do.....I'm jealous

what a swell. almost feels like the shape of things to come - worse weather and gnarlier out-of-control waves. And lots of willing no-limits volunteers. Looking forward to the next set of mavs photos. And waves that are within reach.

Doof, right on! Thanks for the re-cap, and thanks for rubbing it in... Cool to hear you guys scored. Sick!

zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

within reach - vamanos!

cool story doof, you lucky bastard

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