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waves

Waves out there. Big ones.
With some driving, an open mind and some sack you could find action today. Good luck and know your limits.

But.. enough of my blabbering. A talented surfer nearly drowned at a local beach the other day. If not for the heroism of a few individuals things might have turned out differently. Reality Check and Pez helped bring this surfer to safety. This is what they had to say:


I am one of the absent minded buddys of the guy pulled out of the water on Saturday. It was by far the heaviest thing I have ever seen in almost 20 years of surfing in the area. The guy who went unconscious is a very solid surfer who excels in the biggest & meanest OB can dish out. Fortunately Saturday was not one of those days.

Out of respect for privacy I don't want to go into too much detail but I think recounting the story could help save lives down the road. Basically how it started is I hear someone screaming which I mistakenly assume is some asshole barking for some surf etiquette breach but then I see what he is motioning to which is a someone floating unconcsious with their board tombstoning. To my absolute horror I recognize my friends board and that it is him. I paddle over to him just as the guy who first saw him does. At this point I think I went into a state of semi shock as it seemed more like a nightmare than reality. Fortunately the guy that initially saw him knew CPR and began giving mouth to mouth along with another friend that came over. Basically four of us pulled him into the shorebreak(right where the rocks are) so we had to pull him north to actual beach. At that point a bunch of other people ran down and jumped into the water fully clothed to help pull him to shore. Once we got him to shore he started to breathe again and fortunately the EMS got there really quickly. I don't think he fully came to until he was in back of the ambulance but he is fine now. Me personally I would like to thank every single person that helped bring him in, the guys that jumped in fully clothed, the person that saw us waving from the water & dialed 911, EMS for a really speedy response, and especially the guy that first saw him, got in there quickly with emergency breathing assistance. If someone here knows him, please re thank him for me.

Lessons learned from this experience:
1. Every single surfer should know at least basic CPR, after this experience I just signed up for a course.

2. Always keep an eye on others in the lineup you never know who could need help.

Posted by: Reality Check


Hey all....been a long time since I have posted. Work has been a drag and preventing me from browsing as well as surfing.

I hope that folks do not mis understand my intentions by publicizing that I was that initial guy who saw and helped reality checks buddy. I am very releived to hear he is ok and glad that everything went well.

Its a real intense situation that truely disturbs me and left me slightly distraut. I also just want to thank you guys for comming to our aid and putting forth all of your efforts.

This guy has a few people to thank, the first being is himself. I dont know how I know, but this guy wanted to live. It didnt take much work to get him breathing again and he just seemed to not want to give up. All of you who assume that he should not be in the water in the first place, please fuck off as you are probably the type of surfers who were 10 yards closer than I was or taking off on a wave towards his body only to ignore the situation. You know who you are and luckily I have already forgotten your faces as I seriously wish it were you face down in the water rather than someone who has the drive and courage to do something that is potentially dangerous and is told "you cant do that". That guy has some spirit and despite this event I sincerely hope he doesnt quit surfing. Maybe the sea was sending a message, but I for one will welcome this guy in any lineup.

He owes a lot to his friends who not only helped bring him in but put themselves at risk to assist. I also really think he responded to thier voices and he should feel comfortable knowing he has genuine friends who care for him and wanted him to make it through. They also worked like fucking hell to get him in. I can only hope that my friends would put in the same effort for me given the situation.

I would have done this for anyone out there in the water including people I dont like. A lot of us surfers need a reality check, a good look in the mirror and an attitude change. Surfing is not supposed to be like the rest of society, where we get ahead by ignoring others needs and stepping on people/ideals to get ahead. Its not supposed to be about "HEY I GOT IT!" or "did you see me on that wave". The spirtual element of surfing is dying and self centeredness, greed, selfishness and vanity within us is killing it. Im still going to surf as there are good surfers with sound characters who still inspire me. Sounds corny but EDDY WOULD GO can teach us a lot about surfing and what it means to take part in this blessing that is surf. Surfing has soul and you either are destroying it, enslaving it or allowing it to embrace you.

Please send my thanks to that guy as he both reminded me of many things and inspires me to not only challange myself in surfing but more importantly in life. I WANT TO LIVE TOO!!!!!

Posted by: pez


Pez - hopefully you'll be shot out of one of these soon (Sarge photos)
pipe

Hog no fear
bomb

mega off-the-top
whack

Good job Pez and Reality, I's good to know there are solid folk out in the lineup. I stumbled on to the scene as the Paramedics got there, I was surfing just south of that nasty little current. I grabbed my camera and took some shot as the paramedics got to the scene, just instincts I guess. I hope your friend does well and gets back in the water soon.

Also the guy that drowned a couple of weeks ago left behind his lady and she now is in financial hardship. He seemed like a cool cat, volunteered at Other Aves, into gardening. There is flyer with info at Java Beach.

Posted by: Mexi at March 1, 2005 10:54 AM

Hiroshi Yoshida

Posted by: bagel at March 1, 2005 11:00 AM

wow... i'm definitely glad to be alive and that thankfulness is driven home every time i paddle out. i hope it doesn't seem too callous to follow the heaviness above with a seemingly light-hearted question, but here goes:

my wife and i are heading to puerto vallarta for a wedding at the end of the month. we are planning to spend a few days in sayulita, but we are looking for somewhere else in the area to stay for a few days as well. my wife is pregnant and won't be surfing, so ideally wherever we end up would have both surf and other activities nearby. thanks in advance...

Posted by: noel at March 1, 2005 11:00 AM

Noel, Go to San Blas about an hour and a half north or Sayulita. A very cool coloial fishing town, with a nice point break (not very consistant). It's a very romantic town, with nice resteraunts and good beaches.

Posted by: Mexi at March 1, 2005 11:04 AM

Heady stuff.

Hey, looks like the Mavs contest is on for tomorrow.
I'll try to catch an hour or two in the morning.

Posted by: kloo at March 1, 2005 11:11 AM

mad props pez and EMTs et al. it'd good to know there are people looking out for each other out there.

now, how bout mavs?! woohoo! my boss already knows i'll be 'sick' tomorrow, my kid's teachers too. pack a picnic, the binocs, and a blanket. gonna be a fun day tomorrow! for those unable to attend, and in front of a monitor all day, live vicariously through the webcast....

http://mavericks.bolt.com/

Posted by: oaktown daddy at March 1, 2005 11:13 AM

Posted by: e at March 1, 2005 11:19 AM

those photos from mavsurfer.com

Posted by: e at March 1, 2005 11:25 AM

from craigslist...

I never quite figured out why the sexual urge of men and women differ so
much. And I never have figured out the whole Venus and Mars thing. I have
never figured out why men think with their head and women with their heart.

FOR EXAMPLE: One evening last week, my girlfriend and I were getting into
bed.

Well, the passion starts to heat up, and she eventually says "I don't feel
like it, I just want you to hold me."

I said "WHAT??!! What was that?!"

So she says the words that every boyfriend on the planet dreads to hear...
"You're just not in touch with my emotional needs as a woman enough for me
to satisfy your physical needs as a man." She responded to my puzzled look
by saying, "Can't you just love me for who I am and not what I do for you in
the bedroom?"

Realizing that nothing was going to happen that night, I went to sleep.

The very next day I opted to take the day off of work to spend time with
her. We went out to a nice lunch and then went shopping at a big, big
unnamed department store. I walked around with her while she tried on
several different very expensive outfits. She couldn't decide which one to
take so I told her we'd just buy them all. She wanted new shoes to
compliment her new clothes, so I said lets get a pair for each outfit. We
went onto the jewelry department where she picked out a pair of diamond
earrings. Let me tell you...she was so excited. She must have thought I was
one wave short of a shipwreck. I started to think she was testing me because
she asked for a tennis bracelet when she doesn't even know how to play
tennis. I think I threw her for a loop when I said, "That's fine, honey."
She was almost nearing sexual satisfaction from all of the excitement.
Smiling with excited anticipation she finally said, "I think this is all
dear, let's go to the cashier."

I could hardly contain myself when I blurted out, "No honey, I don't feel
like it."

Her face just went completely blank as her jaw dropped with a baffled
WHAT?"

I then said "honey! I just want you to HOLD this stuff for a while. You're
just not in touch with my financial needs as a man enough for me to satisfy
your shopping needs as a woman." And just when she had this look like she
was going to kill me, I added, "Why can't you just love me for who I am and
not for the things I buy you?"

Apparently I'm not having sex tonight either.

Posted by: j at March 1, 2005 11:31 AM

Winds solid out of the SW, and, more importantly, 100% sincere, heartfelt respect for Pez and Reality Check! ! May the best waves roll your way.

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at March 1, 2005 11:33 AM


Posted by: at March 1, 2005 11:34 AM

Anyone know Flea's health. Is he healed from the Eddie? My moneys on Flea if he competes. That guy is the most charging charger!
Flea would go!!

Posted by: at March 1, 2005 11:37 AM

Mavericks Contest = YAAAWWWNNNN.
drop into big waves, MAYBE make 1.5 turns. Yaahhhh!!! Big Whoop!

Not that I surf that large shit, but it is so boring to watch, and all the pictures look the same. It's basically just a drop.
I'd rather watch high school rippers surf 6' Rincon. gromms ripping perfect waves is more exciting than the same guys surfing the same peak.

Watch the Quik Kirra contest to see guys who can actually turn a board.

JMHO.

Posted by: The Reyals at March 1, 2005 11:48 AM

noel: there's a nice little town just north of pv called bucerias. on the water but no great surfing right around there there - but close enough to spots that it makes a good base. the town has several bars/restaurants & seemed to be going thru development but in a relatively mellow way. i'd usually prefer things a bit further north where the towns are smaller and less developed, but bucerias could be good with a pregnant wife. i stayed in this place on a visit a few years ago, a friend knew the owner, it is totally sweet but pretty pricey:

http://www.sunworx.com/board/bucerias/sirena/index.htm

Posted by: loon at March 1, 2005 11:49 AM

why isn't Alex Martins on the alternate list at least??

Posted by: e at March 1, 2005 11:49 AM

I agree that Flea is a charging charger, but he's also a dicky dickhead. I hope he gets the karma pounding that he deserves just like he did at the Eddie.
--MM

Posted by: moss_man at March 1, 2005 12:05 PM

OK, I'm not an expert but have spend a some time previously working as an EMT- ambulance/ ER as well as various outdoor deals: Swiftwater rescue, SAR, lifeguard etc. So I'm going to add my 2 cents here and hopefully it'll help someone in the future.
Way to go Pez, RC & everyone else.

What to do if you encounter someone unconscious in the surf! Surfer or Non- surfer drowning etc.

Here are the key things to remember!
Summon help immediately and get the person to shore as fast as possible without making anything worse.
This is what will save lives as well as rescue breathing/ CPR & a defib (fast EMS response)

2-3+ people to help the person in (depending on circumstances)
1 person to summon help

First assess the scene!

Be aware someone who is drowning (conscious and flailing) can bring you down fast (attack you w/ superhuman strength) so be careful.
The easiest there is just to offer your board- once they hold on to the board they should calm down

Approach the person. Is that person unresponsive? No Then yell at them in their face or tap their chest with 3 fingers or an open palm forcefully but not too hard. Many times someone is just dazed
Call for help! Yelling Help as opposed to a scream works better.
Are there any friends there who know this person/ medical history etc whom can help? Regardless better to ask ?'s on the beach

Deepwater = Probably no neck injury
Shallow = Assume neck injury

Place the person on a surfboard carefully the bigger the better (longboard) with the victim's back laying flat looking in the air. Victim's Head toward the fins
One person should be @ the head/ fin side to maintain the airway or hold C- Spine (the neck in place) This person can also kick like a boogie boarder toward the shore.

One person @ the nose or 2 on each side. Probably still on their boards or swimming to the sides

If the person determines there is no breathing then rescue breathing applies/ maintain airway
CPR is really out of the question/ difficult due to no resistance in H20

Be aware and ready to move the person to their side by tilting the board in case of vomiting ( more than 50% of the time) You don't want them to choke on their own vomit (a major cause of death)

When crossing the surf zone- pinch the persons nose and mouth to prevent H20 from entering. Others hold onto the victim & your board or push the other boards away.

When you can stand with 2-4+ people pick up the board like a backboard (or float them to the beach) Maintain airway
When on the beach make sure waves won't wash up and interfere w/ traditional CPR/ rescue breathing.

At this point just pray and wait for medical attention, don't freak out, trained people continue CPR. Let more trained individuals take over if there are any.
If the person regains consciousness (best case) tell them not to talk and answer questions not by moving their head yes or no (hand signals etc.)

OK sorry for the long post, hopefully it helps.

Just use common sense, help others, react quickly, don't make thing worse & take a CPR class

Posted by: artifact at March 1, 2005 12:18 PM

Damn artifcat just laid it down! e, you should post that in an article on the front page!

J, that was the funniest thing I have heard in a long time. Christ I can't wait to try that!

Watching Mav's from the cliffs can be pretty boring. Being in the water on the hand...

Anyone who has been to Costa Rica. I'll be there in July and I'm just curious.. What's the best route? Into San Jose, then straight up to the North and slowly head down South? Or just slowly work our way up from Nicoya/bay to the North?

Posted by: Ian at March 1, 2005 12:41 PM

Nice post, artifact.
Very funny j... that's a sex-career-ending move!

Regarding PV... Sayulita may also work out just fine. Costa Azul is just North of there in San Francisco... worth checking out. I've also heard that South of PV has some nice places, although I haven't been. Regarding San Blas... beautiful place, but be aware of the heavy mosquito population. If you head up there, be sure to research surf spots, as there are some gems.

Posted by: SFKneelo at March 1, 2005 12:47 PM

that was an incredibly helpful post artifact, and i second ian's suggestion to put it on the main page.

ian, i've wanted to catch a session with you now that i'm back on the west coast... i'd be psyched to break down CR for you, maybe in the water? drop me a line at my firstname NOSPACE lesnik AT the heady gmail connection.

-jake

Posted by: j.o.c at March 1, 2005 12:51 PM

Ian, there are now international flights into Liberia so that's your best bet if you want to go to the north (and you should). If you're going to the Caribbean or far south, use San Jose.

Things got a lot more crowded in Nicoya after Liberia opened up. Most people I talked to there flew in that way.

Posted by: Nate at March 1, 2005 12:55 PM

the bombs are coming!

and the kooky carves! go lanky power!

Posted by: j.o.c at March 1, 2005 01:00 PM

Crazy waterspout just off the HB pier taken 2/19/05:

Posted by: mwsf at March 1, 2005 01:07 PM

And I didn't take that waterspout shot. From Surfline...

Posted by: mwsf at March 1, 2005 01:08 PM

Kneelo is right about the mosquitos in San Blas, but it's only a problem between dusk and dawn. Ever hear the Mana song about San Blas? There are few Gringos there, unlike Sayulita and PV, which is almost like be in the States.

As for the South of PV, I've spent a lot of time there because my family is from there. it's unchartered territory, don't go, it's a waste of time.

Ian, if you are going to CR in summer. you'd be better off in the southern half of the country.

Posted by: Mexi at March 1, 2005 01:10 PM

I meant at dusk and dawn...

Posted by: Mexi at March 1, 2005 01:17 PM

Duh, I meant SE winds, and thanks for the info, artifact.

Nice Alex M pic. Check out that guy standing on his board in the upper left? heh

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at March 1, 2005 01:22 PM

hah!! sharkbait.. it does look like a guy standing but i think it's actually two separate surfers.

J.O.C. - is that your lanky self?? nice shot!!
sorry i've been massively out of touch. I suck!! how was the reggae concert??

Posted by: e at March 1, 2005 01:33 PM

That's a funny picture ss. Good eyes e. Great postings the last two days from all.

Posted by: Dennis at March 1, 2005 01:47 PM

I have taken note to the fact that I have not had any super-long hold-downs this year. I know it is in part to the fact that I've skipped the bigger days this year and perhaps been more careful in the waves I've selected. But, I wonder if I've finally gotten use to being dragged underwater or more likely, the waves have been less powerful this year. Anyone else have the same experience?

Posted by: Dennis at March 1, 2005 01:58 PM

Lately my work / school schedule has limited my surfing to the weekends - a SERIOUS problem - and has interfered with me keeping in check with this forum - a less serious problem, but vexing just the same.
However, I did hear the report of Nusa's death (solace to those he left behind). I saw a snapshot of him at the cash register at Other Avenues – he looked like a good guy, I’m sure he’s missed by those that knew him.
I also heard about the near drowning the other day. Heavy, heavy stuff. Good on Pez and Reality Check for the quick response, sounds like they saved the guy’s life. I’m inspired to renew my CPR certification ASAP.
Excellent info on artifact’s post – THANKS!
On the lighter side:
Funny, funny story, j! But Ian, as tempting as it may be (and believe me I AM tempted) DO NOT TRY THAT AT HOME – she won’t get the joke!
Mavericks tomorrow? Good call, or were there better days for it earlier in the season?

Posted by: Jimmie at March 1, 2005 02:05 PM

Dennis, you and I will be meeting again soon on my terms.

Posted by: Mother Ocean at March 1, 2005 02:08 PM

Damn, I didn't think you were on this blog!

Posted by: Dennis at March 1, 2005 02:12 PM

Hey sick ass site

Posted by: Brian at March 1, 2005 02:12 PM

Hi to all OB surf veterans and loveable kooks. Have not posted in months, but wanted to comment on the drownings and near-drownings of late. First of all: Praise to Pez+friends for saving a life that needed to be saved. Your karma helps keeps the cruel world in gear.

I nearly drowned alone in enormous surf at OB in 1998 and had a number of epiphanies as I flailed underwater on the very verge, and stared into that one true void of permanent death -- those deepwater 2-wave winter hold+drags will pull the black curtain down w/o consent if you lose the willpower, the 17-second interval's got no love for the wellbeing of your life force.

Anyone with even a minimal level of big-wave sack can relate that good surfers can and will get their egos handed to them by Nature at any given moment, and the stark/disturbing indifference of the sea toward mankind could never be more clear. Don't think the drippy-hippy thought, that this ocean loves you -- it could really care less. It may nurture your soul but it will gladly pulverize your body and extract every last molecule of oxygen from your system, and leave your bloated corpse to scavenging animals, with pleasure. It's a random throw of the current, unwieldy set waves and, as we all know, OB just has that "mean&ugly factor" as it gleefully shoots daggers into your sessions.

HOW MANY OF US HAVE BEEN A MERE 2 OR 3 SECONDS AWAY FROM BOBBING FACE DOWN IN AN UGLY IMPACT ZONE?

Sometimes, despite all skill or talent, we are simpering little ragdolls in a violent ocean of heaving wet cement. You will then know what your life is worth, when you spew a lung full of briny water out of a useless little rib cage in a last gasp that almost takes you out forever. And as mentioned, yes, I very much relate to the fact that at a certain point in the near-drowning ordeal your struggle gives way to a bizarre urge to let go, where death seemingly beckons quietly then as muscles relax and the spine wants to go slack. At this point, it's all up to the intangible abilities of a surfer's mind to get him to the surface somehow. If you don't make it, maybe you'll be fortunate enough to have a "Pez" nearby to extract you from such peril. I was not, and almost crossed over to the ultimate, anonymous humility of a vast watery grave. 1 or 2 more seconds, tops, and that would have been the end of me.

Posted by: MONKEY MILK at March 1, 2005 02:24 PM

Dang Monkey, Go easy ...

Posted by: Mexi at March 1, 2005 02:30 PM

Thank you to everyone for all the nice words. I am just so incredibly stoked things turned out the way they did. I am so grateful to all the people that chipped in to help.

Also wanted to mention that Bay Area Red Cross is offering a free CPR Class at Lincoln High (Central Sunset) next Saturday. I believe pre registration is required I am registered.

You can look up the schedule at www.bayarea-redcross.org

Posted by: Reality Check at March 1, 2005 02:33 PM

Oh and on a much different note, E I agree how come Alex is not on the alternate list for the Mavs event?? From what I hear he has been one of the more consistent guys out there the last few years.

What is the scoop on that?

I think he was at least an alternate last year?

Posted by: Reality Check at March 1, 2005 02:41 PM

There are a few stand outs that aren't on the list, Ryan Seelbach also isn't on the list. I think they wanted to get a good mix of people from everywhere, to make it an international event.

Posted by: Mexi at March 1, 2005 02:45 PM

Ryan Seelbach is on the actual invite list.

Posted by: Reality Check at March 1, 2005 02:48 PM

I remember taking the drop at the lane, looking back i suddenly saw tip of a red surfboard was slowly emerging,... jetting out of the foamball on board was surfer in a leopard printed "from knee to foot and elbow to wrist" wetsuit ... I was utterly amazed, i pulled back out, as he swooshed past me out of the bottom turn annilating the lip continuing on down the wave,... afterwards i paddled to the surfer and expressed my most sincere apologies for dropping in and how that his surfing was simply incredible because everybody else previously taking off from where he went didn't make it... the guy was real cool, he wasn't anal, angry, or upset... he simply said "it's all good just always check back before you go",... he then proceeded back into the line up and continue his onslaught on the 1.5 head, 2head high on the sets at the lane,... after my session, my girlfriend later told me "that was Flea"... far as I'm concerned, Flea is most definitely the standard in terms of sufer etiquette, ... you want respect you give respect...

Posted by: boogie boarder4life at March 1, 2005 02:49 PM

I remember being WORKED by the no-see-ums at Mantanchen (sp?) (San Blas) around 3:30 pm each day. There are hotels on the beach there that are half built and the local legend is that the no-see-ums stopped construction. Sounds a little like a tall story, but they are worse there than anywhere I have ever been.
San Blas is a great town. For those single guys, lots of girls. Fickle wave though. I sat there through two supposed south swells and rode about a 2 foot wave. Then I came back there delivering a boat and pulled in to anchor. It was overhead, and just peeling down the point. Perfect performance walls...Minimal crowd. I did not have my board, as I had to take the bus back to Zihuataneo after delivery. It hurt. It really hurt.

Posted by: web at March 1, 2005 02:55 PM

thanks for the info, artifact, and to MMilk for the extra reality check.

i wonder if any of the surfshops would be willing to pay for printing & distributing that list? i plan to print it out and keep a copy in my car.

for any of you like me who have been thru 1st aid training but need to refresh your memory, here are some of the key details on CPR:

1. Open the airway (head-tilt chin-lift or jaw-thrust maneuver)

2. LOOK-LISTEN-&-FEEL for breaths FOR 5-10 SECONDS.

3. If they aren't breathing VENTILATE TWICE.

4. Check for a pulse by palpating(feeling) the carotid artery. CHECK THE PULSE FOR 10 SECONDS.

5. If there is no pulse BEGIN CHEST COMPRESSIONS at a rate of 15 COMPRESSIONS to 2 BREATHS. Recheck the pulse after ONE MINUTE.

6. CONTINUE UNTIL HELP ARRIVES, OR UNTIL YOU FEEL TOO TIRED TO CONTINUE.

Posted by: loon at March 1, 2005 02:59 PM

some more PV, mex. tips....if you're not into driving a few hours for waves, you might as well just go to punta de mita. it's a little south of sayulita and picks up more swell than other nearby spots. there are a variety of breaks there, among them a sick right point breaking over nasty urchins.

Posted by: rza at March 1, 2005 03:12 PM

kaiser, u there? want to know if i surfed with u on saturday at sloat around midday. remember a grom on a blue bodyboard?

Posted by: Hoseph at March 1, 2005 03:13 PM

Alex is not on the list because it is a politicized thing, he is a better Mavericks surfer than quite a few that are on the invite list. Last year he was an alternate and he additionally was runner-up for the biggest paddle-in wave all year (a wave that broke his ribs). In addition, for the last two years he has been one of the most consistent performers at Mavericks, going deep and big often.

I'm pretty sure the sponsors made a few choices for the list, people associated with Clark got preferential nods, the obvious favorites got the nods. Anyone else was lucky to be on the list at all.

When the list came out I pointed all this out to Alex, and he gave it his characteristic humble shrug "I don't know". No excuses, no claims he should have made the list or alternate list, just "I don't know, I just go to surf the best I can and someone else decides who gets in the contest". A class act.

Posted by: blakestah at March 1, 2005 03:26 PM

boogie for life I think you had the opportune chance of catching Flea in a good mood -- good for you! I have surfed with him countless times, and I can tell you, more often than not, he is a prick. Seems to go with the SC tough guy territory. No doubt he charges though.

Posted by: yeah right at March 1, 2005 03:34 PM

well said Stah'. Alex is the man.

Posted by: e at March 1, 2005 03:35 PM

I'm glad that post was useful. Please repost it, pass it on, add to it (correct my poor grammar) etc. The more people that are aware out there the better we'll all be!

Just remember that the conditions decide the response. Hauling someone in on a longboard just won't happen in TOH surf. Be practical, quick & try to do no harm.

Another thing that shouldn't be overlooked (pez mentioned it yesterday) If you find yourself in a heavy situation you have to fight for it & not give up no matter how dire the situation. You are your own best rescuer and many times there won't be others around to help you out.

Here's tomorrow's lineup (most of them). Should be fun!

Posted by: artifact at March 1, 2005 03:44 PM

that waterspout is nuts

Posted by: bbr at March 1, 2005 03:54 PM

ISeaU photo

Posted by: e at March 1, 2005 04:00 PM

Hoseph, I was the one that told you there was a whale out there. There were a few other old dawgs in the lineup. After the whale came up a 3rd time, I left as the waves were crap.

We gonna get some rideable nuggets tomorrow or what?

I need some waves.....

Posted by: Kaiser at March 1, 2005 04:32 PM

I'm currently 8ft 21seconds!

Posted by: sf buoy at March 1, 2005 04:34 PM

Posted by: jessica alba fan at March 1, 2005 04:36 PM

"...anticipates that 25,000 to 50,000 spectators will line the shore and cliffs to watch the contest."

http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?file=/baycitynews/archive/2005/03/01/mavericks01.DTL

Going to be a great day to be somewhere else.

Posted by: at March 1, 2005 04:43 PM

Back from a sort of protected spot nearby; fairly close-outty, not big, strong offshores, but surfable.

Posted by: kloo at March 1, 2005 05:06 PM

STAH,
you are probably right, That sounds like classic Alex. I forgot pros and contests are all about the cash.

Posted by: mexi at March 1, 2005 05:18 PM

Flea longboarding seems as unlikely as him being a humble friendly guy. I saw him out at the Lane once, by no means the biggest loudmouth in the lineup but i did hear some whiney grunts every once in a while and a few scouls. Who cares if he charges, his style is ugly. Alex is better.

Posted by: I at March 1, 2005 06:01 PM

hah nice to meet u kaiser, ill say whats up next time. nice to see the niceness crew out there

Posted by: Hoseph at March 1, 2005 07:27 PM

It's weird there isn't a surf industry in SF. It's even weirder that they aren't any pros (photo sluts/sponsorship whores) out of the bay. I constantly see people all around SM & SF county who rip harder than many other pros. Not saying that's how it should be, just an observation. Are people in the area just far more humble than other places? Westside SC should be somewhat empty tomorrow since most of the loq's will be supporting the usuals in the contest.

Posted by: Ian at March 1, 2005 07:36 PM

Surfing level at Ocean Beach has never been very high. In fact, it is about as high as it has ever been right now. That isn't to say that the charging level isn't high, because it is. We also have a strong group of very competent surfers. Yet world class surfers are very few and far between here. Probably because the beach has to be the most difficult place to learn to surf. San Mateo coast is also nowhere near as consistent or as good as Santa Cruz' peelers. Typically, where there are good/excellent waves, there are good/excellent surfers.

Posted by: my 2 cents at March 1, 2005 07:41 PM

Alright, who was the ass who said the season was over.....

Read on my fellow wave hogs, READ ON!!!!

At the surface on Wednesday (3/2) a new strong but small low is forecast to develop over the dateline with winds building to hurricane force aimed east. This storm is to push into the Gulf on Thursday (3/3) with 40-50 kts winds and pressure at 964 mbs. Seas forecast to 42 ft aimed well at California but on too easterly a track for Hawaii. This system is to lift north on Friday (3/4) and serve as a pump to drag at least 3 more moderate systems east across the dateline into the Gulf, all passing just north of Hawaii and producing seas greater than 30 ft. All this while high pressure holds just over California providing light northerly winds. Unfortunately Kona's looks to be the norm for Hawaii. It's way too early to put any stock in this, but the swell producing trend is most encouraging.

The Southern Oscillation Index remains well in the negative range (as it has since February 3rd). And since Feb 22 it has dipped very deep, in the -40 to -50 range consistently. This is most unusual. Last year near about this time a similar pattern developed, but not as deep or prolonged. Prior to that the last burst of negative SOI energy like this was during the fading days of the massive El Nino of 97/98. This pattern is something well worth watching.

*****************************************************
So, in summary, we have swell coming. Accordingly, "like last year at this time...." stands out to me. Also, "Unfortunately Kona's looks to be the norm for Hawaii..." stands out. Sucks that I have to travel there in a week. I mean really, who likes Hawaii? I might have to surf 4-6 ft north swell wrap on the east side with offshores. FUCK! What board will I ride....

Posted by: Kaiser at March 1, 2005 07:58 PM

I dunno what the pros and contests are all about, but in my just world Alex would be in it. Of course, it is always easier to say that as an armchair spectator and an Alex fan. Looking forward to a good contest, cheering for the SF guys.

Posted by: blakestah at March 1, 2005 08:00 PM

Ian, what pros are you referencing? I don't know many SF guys who rip harder than the top 44 or the WQS surfers.

Posted by: at March 1, 2005 08:05 PM

Ian, what pros are you referencing? I don't know many SF guys who rip harder than the top 44 or the WQS surfers.

Posted by: at March 1, 2005 08:05 PM

See you there. If I can't get a boat I'll be on the bluff. I've got a friggin' management retreat at noon so it will be hit and run.

Posted by: Bruce at March 1, 2005 08:11 PM

I never said or intended that there are a lot of SF surfers who rip as hard as the top 44. Not only the top 44 are pro's. There are a lot of pro's who don't compete. I don't know many SC guys who rip harder than the top 44 either, but there's a lot more pro surfers there than here.

Posted by: Ian at March 1, 2005 09:02 PM

hey did anyone but me have a go today? Found a fun lineup with a bud, surfed a few, broke my leash, swam for my board, tied it together again, surfed until it separated again, repeated the process once more. Buddy had a seal that was dogging us real close bite his cord (freaked until he saw the flippers). Weird. All in all, glad I went, even with the swimming.

On a more serious note, I always wondered why Foo floated in the water so long without his friends (or anyone else) seriously asking "where's mark?" We're two recent drownings and a near drowning later. One of the "near" differences seemed to be people who were observant and acted quickly - god bless. When I see someone take a hella wipeout I always look for them surfacing. So far they always have. This winter is a reminder that people don't always pop up, and the life saved could be your (or my) own. This sounds preachy, but if this can happen at OB on relatively mellow days (I was out the days of both OB incidents) think about how much heavier it can get. Make davy jones work hard for his own.

Posted by: banjo at March 1, 2005 10:16 PM

The thing I've always loved and respected about Alex is his quiet and humble demeaner. He is such a true soul surfer, he doesn't even know he's a soul surfer. Good luck to Grant and Ryan today!

Posted by: mexi at March 2, 2005 06:43 AM

Pez;
Re: Your post on 3/1/05. As an 18 year OB surfer and a former S.D. County lifeguard all I have to say is "Amen bro"

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