E's Surf Report

nice shots mexi..nice drop christian..glad i surfed yesterday

got three waves in 45 minutes this morning on the south end, so freaking fun, wish i had more time. driving back on the great highway the middle looked a-maaaayyy-zziiinnnngggg. can't even imagine what it's gonna look like tomorrow. sick shots mexi!

BBR, I only saw you boogers getting waves out there! Nice work. Either you or another bodyboarder got a looooooooooonnnnnnggggggg left out the back. Skipping down the face about five times, solid! Saw a few other rides but not many.

Myself....I took a pair of fingernail clippers to a knife fight this morning! Bad mistake.

The Obvious: Take your gun out today, you're gonna need it.....

news from the chick front:
1) girls can punt too! melanie bartels in that gallaz video preview proves it. impressive.
2) mexi has some great shots in the new Surf Life.
one of diana mattison on a beach in oregon, although she didn't get mentioned (weird?) and one of pacifica cranking, which it does sometimes, i guess.
3) this weekend was fun but why don't i ever seen other girls out when it gets over shoulder to head high.

saturday: loggin' beats bloggin'!
sunday: inner bar good times.
monday: i have a dream! a dream of a day off in january with beautiful weather, building swell and glassy a-frames and barrels!

great weekend. thank you MLK!

Saw some rides this morning all over the beach, including a couple of really know-what-they're-doing types of rides on probably 2.5xOH waves, awesome to watch---powerful bottom turns, whipping cutbacks half a block long, biiig re-entries . . . But I didn't paddle out, owing to that nagging testicular deficiency syndrome.

Damn the last two days were fun at low tide! So easy to make progress when you're actually able to spend a lot of time up on the board on good waves. Managed my first approximately competent turn off the lip and then two more on the same wave (sssspray!); stalled in the slot on a hollow wave with a little cover-up . . . and basically fell in love with my new little board, which seems to make everything soooo easy.

i have a feeling that was my second wave, my board pretty much bent in half on that second bounce, stringer and all. that other boogie was owning though, i probably wouldn't have paddled out if i hadn't seen him get a solid nug from the lot.

i was barred yesterday by work, but sunday evening inner bar madness was in full effect.

organic surfer at the Lane

steamwand: next time open your eyes when you duckdive and bubble a "halloo" as I'll assuredly be floundering around underneath waves like that ;)

ARG what a weekend to be away! OB now is madness! Holy fark, my palms are sweating just looking at it. Serious, huge, steep farking bombs. Farking fark!

First hand advice: Do not ride a 6'1 today. Saw some guys ripping and fadfing so deep at middle of the beach. Today was the first time I've ever seen what looked to be a huge emerald-green building collapsing on my head in the water. Mexi, really sick shots man! Keep it up!

yeah, s.s. you missed some good ones this weekend. i kept expecting to see you in the water, wondered where you were.

mexi, where are your B shots?

Spotted e as I cruised through the lot
Opted for the alternate paddle
Rip heading south, me heading north
pant, pant, pant
Arrived at Zooland after 8
Couple of thick sets pass through
One bomb and it's off to work
From the lot saw blond booger get big barrel
That you bbr?

Totally worth it.

E- Organic surfing indeed. My photos are better than my surfing and my photos ain't that good. Now Mexi's shots posted today. . . Sweeeet.

Picked up a 6-5 Haut fish this weekend to further endanger my self esteem. But I love the life, even if half the time I'm serving as middle-aged speedbump displacing water and being mistaken for an elephant seal.

Gonna' try to shoot the Zoo tomorrow at 7:00 before the first meeting. If anyone gets a high-speed tow or helicopter drop out back I'll see if I can get a photo.

2005 WCT Men (Top 45)
1. Irons, Andy (Hawaii)
2. Parkinson, Joel (Australia)
3. Slater, Kelly (USA)
4. Hobgood, C.J. (USA)
5. Egan, Luke (Australia)
6. Burrow, Taj (Australia)
7. Hedge, Nathan (Australia)
8. Garcia, Sunny (Hawai‘i)
9. Hobgood, Damien, (USA)
10. Rosa, Peterson (Brazil)
11. Paterson, Jake (Australia)
12. Occhilupo, Mark (Australia)
13. Lowe, Michael (Australia)
14. Lopez, Cory (USA)
15. Robb, Kalani (Hawai‘i)
16. Wills, Daniel (Australia)
17. MacDonald, Phillip (Australia)
18. Morrison, Dean (Australia)
19. Moura, Paulo (Brazil)
20. Whitaker, Tom (Australia)
21. Curran, Tim (USA)
22. Knox, Taylor (USA)
23. Irons, Bruce (Hawai‘i)
24. Winkler, Lee (Australia)
25. Monteiro, Raoni (Brazil)
26. O'Connell, Pat (USA)
27. O'Rafferty, Darren (Australia)
28. Lovett, Richard (Australia)
29. Padaratz, Neco (Brazil)
30. Munro, Trent (Australia)
31. Brooks, Troy (Australia)
32. Nunes, Marcelo (Brazil)
33. Beschen, Shane (USA)
34. Martin, Toby (Australia)
35. Fanning, Mick (Australia)
36. Emslie, Greg (South Africa)
37. Lopez, Shea (USA)
38. Stedman, Luke (Australia)
39. Reyes, Tim (USA)
40. Ward, Chris (USA)
41. Patacchia, Fred (Hawai‘i)
42. Logie, Travis (South Africa)
43. Durbidge, Bede (Australia)
44. Flintoff, Kirk (Australia)
45. Rocha, Renan (Brazil)

Fun, moooshy waves this mornin' but hey there were waves finally down here. Lookin' good, too big?, over the next coupla days. The dude that runs the surf site down here got his car stolen from the parking lot where i and many others were parked. Sketchy.

Niceness up north! Can't wait to see the out of control OB pics.

Bruce stylin'!

I'm holding tons of good stuff that I'll post in the coming weeks.

As for B-shots , I'm going to put a few books of slidesat Aqua, if see yourself you can purchase the slide for a few bucks.

In the Christian pic above, he went on to get a pretty deep tube and he pulled out dry. Unfortunately I ran out of film just before that happened.

I'm going to try and shoot tomorrow AM.

I am gonna be standing in the lot eating a donut tomorrow morning....

Chocolate filled I think. Not sure yet.

What kind of donut?

Mexi, let me know what kind you like, I'll pick up a dozen on my way out to the beach.

Sounds like media frenzy, I'll be filming. Kaiser, I enjoy a good old fashioned ;) How's the parent life?

i might take out a 4' glazed tomorrow

that other barrel sequence you got is sick too mexi

nice hands bruce! smooth

Maple bar

was out for one hour on the north end this morning, and got just one inner-bar reform wave to show for it -- rips were rippin & peaks were shiftin, and the swell was getting bigger & thicker with each set. but at least all the paddling is getting me back into shape after all the time off during the rains.

charging chargers time to charge-up!

HA! I have this image of a bunch of us guys with our expensive still and video cameras all hanging out in the lot taking pictures of each other, eating donuts, and swapping excuses about why we're not paddling out. Getting over a cold! My back hurts! I promised by five children I wouldn't! Not big enough! Brought the wrong board! Forgot my big wave wax! Waiting for the crowd to thin out! Can't risk having pictures of me surfing- I'm in the witness protection program!

Bruce.. what's your email address?? I sent you a note through surfhumor but i'm not sure if it worked?

Its going to continue to pick up tomorrow during the day, too...

Blakestah can you email me please....?

E- I'm at first initial and full last name @ pacbell.net. I'll be checking it tonight.

Dave- you and Doofstah gonna' go for it? Shall I alert the media and Coast Guard?

I'm pretty sure that Duncan and Friend #1 and I and assorted others like Kdalle and the Fireman and PeeWee will do everything in our power to surf tomorrow. I plan to hit the DP, so hopefully I'll be out there.

NONE SHALL PASS!

droppin' bombs!!

bombs of turds that is!!

i got butterflies already and there's only about a 20% chance that i'll paddle my whimpy arse out there..

big..bigger...biggest....

just got back from a long, looping drive around
pondering where in the fark i left my nuts.

wind is sideshore and howling. lookin' like 2XOH+
on the sets and building steady since the a.m. surf check.
not too keen on this chest-high sloppy to DOH with teeth
transition.

oh and kaiser, some donut holes for me....

i heard yesterday in hawaii they were getting sea spray 3 miles inland. a friends dad who lives there said hes never seen it so big..

shit.. papa buoy is at 17ft 17seconds..

Kaiser.. vanilla frosted please.

Damn, all these orders.......

If for some reason you guys see my car and one of those little pink donut boxes on the hood, help yourself as that is a sure sign I sacked up and paddled out.

You never know.

Ian, sounds like I did the same thing you did this morning. Paddled out on the 6'5'' since it looked kinda soft and mushy. Since I never saw anyone ride a wave, I had no idea it was DOH, soft, and mushy. The 6'5'' wasn't a good call.

cardiac arrest
donuts in the dunes suspect
hole barrell digest

brucey, most excellent hand positioning and nice amount of rail in the water!

Here are some pictures I took around high tide on the 17th of December. For all those paddling out tommorrow, hopefully the photo's will get you amped.

Anybody know how I can post photo's from my hard drive and not from a url? Thanks.

jahmir.. check out momentoffame.com

kaiser, you gonna be bringing coffee to wash those donuts down, too? i'll take an old fashioned or two and some coffee.

off topic- hey E where did you see jazz on balboa? just curious

Let's see if this works...hmmm...

bobby - that coffee shop around 32nd ave or something.. can't remember the name.. Simple Pleasures??

the jazz was goo too!.. couple old guys on piano and drums and a young guy on the upright bass.. played mostly standards but there were tight as hell. good listenin' while i read "Collapse" by Jared Diamond and sipped Yerba Mate.

one more time...

again..

maybe this time...

The photo link from momentoffame.com is not loading so if you want to check out a few photo's from high tide (around 2 o'clockish) on the 17th of December. Check it here...

http://momentoffame.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=989

Let me know if you're any of the surfers in the photo's..

And link to others:

http://momentoffame.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=989

Anyone get any pics of the Noriega Madness this morning...my bro went out and said it was insanity...B I G and burly, whupping the smack down, and offering barrells you could drive a VW bus through...he also said that the foam swimming out was so thick you could not breathe well in it.

nice ones jahmir

E, thats Chucks jazz band that plays at Simple's, They play every week. Days very, I love that cafe, best coffee in town.

ok - let me try this. Photo from this afternoon.

seemed to work ok. Sorry if it's a bit large - feel free to tell me off. This is my first pic post attempt - took this after a great session this arvo at a rather well known spot...couple more 4 u...

nice shots ankors.

can anyone recommend any east bay-based ding repair people? oakland preferred. my friend lives there and needs to make some long-needed repairs to his funboard.

dang gina..

Today was a good "meausre the size of your cajones" day

Skimmers rule...

Dropping in on BBR...

I so much enjoyed this evening. Took a taxi to Daly City after work to purchase a new car (the surfhumor van has a compression problem and can't pass a smog test). Of course, I went through the final new car sales crap and the deal fell apart. I come home to check the blog and see these great organic photos of serious waves. Thanks, ankors for some solid shots and I hate you 'cause I wasn't there.

Kaiser- donuts and Lattes in the lot tomorrow, please.

yo ho ho left bombz at the house. Hard to get into dem guys but oh what a thrill on a couple.

i am here

me too. let's hang out and kick some ass.

bruce - some unsolicited advice on car purchase. try fightingchance.com - you pay like $30-40 to get the up to date deals / specials / rebates offered for a particular vehicle. (as well as prices paid by other consumners) then you negotiate with several fleet managers via fax only. you tell them exactly what you want to buy and let them call you with THEIR offer price. it honestly works and you can get a great deal - and it is stress free since you have them compete for your money. i got a great deal myself.

later.

huhoy

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