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Bright chilly mellow fun

Pre-dawn reveille.
Chat with the lady and give a little back massage.
Suit up, trot down.
Lerm only head bobbing.
Crystalline sheen glitters on smooth water surface.
Waves come.
Trade rides.
Discuss Spoonbender show.
Appreciate offshore-whipped spindrift.
Lerm takes off, ducks under, gets creamed.
I see the lip careen over his noggin.
Cold and refreshing.
Dark, brooding sky over the city.
Waiting for waves.
Clean ocean, I can see my feet!
Lucky to be young, healthy and in the drink.
Fantastic session
surfing rules.

A few photos from mandalacustomshapes.com
Mandala niceness

Mandala niceness

Mandala niceness

Mandala niceness

Mandala niceness

Mandala niceness

Mandala niceness


good poem, e

Posted by: cadaver at January 6, 2005 09:56 AM

e was back on his game today
pumping and whacking in his usual way

Posted by: lerm at January 6, 2005 10:09 AM

sounds like a perfect morning. good on ya!

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at January 6, 2005 10:14 AM

i had your yesterday today. frustrating but fun.
it's gonna be wicked hella fun on the low. i hate work.

Posted by: steamwand at January 6, 2005 10:26 AM

thats it, e's a charging charger, a ripping ripper who rips and charges when its ripping and chargable. RIP, that's what your headstone will say, when its all over for you and your wife wants to pump your ego in the afterlife, cuz she knows you won't be able to do it on this site anymore.

Posted by: at January 6, 2005 10:28 AM

cool pics tho, keep it up, is there a way to disable text, and just see the images. I know, forget how to read!

Posted by: at January 6, 2005 10:29 AM

beautiful...gotta get me one of them boards

Posted by: fishphreak at January 6, 2005 10:50 AM

Are you dissing the E?
Hmmm. I really enjoy the E's writing. I don't think he has an ego issue at all. I think that this is one on the better, if not the best Central/North Coast surfing sites,as far as a good vibe and a good flavor. That is based on 25 + years of surfing around here.Obviously many years with no internet at all. So keep it up E, as long as I am in the office keeping food on the table for my family, I will be logging on enjoying the morning read. Good on ya.Oh, and that is my real name. For you guys who talk trash, maybe you should put your real name. It might put a different take on what you say.

Posted by: web at January 6, 2005 10:57 AM

ya no name, dont hate the player, hate the game

Posted by: bagel at January 6, 2005 11:11 AM

Does anyone else get the impression that the vibe is less sharky when there is poo in the water? Maybe like me, the shark won't open his mouth because the poo might float it. Maybe the landlord doesn't want to get his gray suit all poo-ey. I don't like poo on my wetsuit. A seal came up to me at Poo-cifica. He seemed happy. Like he was at the poo-playground. Maybe seals are used to swimming in their own poo. I'm sad because today is the most poo-less day we've had in two weeks, and I'm in my cubicle. Even the SFPoo-UC says it's relatively pooless today. Wish I was out there. Shit.

Posted by: Andrew on 57th at January 6, 2005 11:15 AM

that red tail has buckteeth

Posted by: cadaver at January 6, 2005 11:15 AM

thanks cadaver, lerm, 3to5 and web.

stoked.

sorry anonymous guy. you never like my words.. sorry that i get under your skin. you should stop tuning in or maybe craft some of your own expressions... or check out aggroville.com. If you're really the Mavs Charging Charger your posts are friggin awesome and i bow down with many iterations of "I'm not worthy!"

Posted by: e at January 6, 2005 11:17 AM

Here are some pics from a camping trip a few weeks ago. Nearly got total skunkage due to early morning crowds and afternoon landslide.

Government Property

Forever empty?

Central Cal

Feathering peeler

SURF ON!!

Posted by: traut at January 6, 2005 11:31 AM

Glad to hear you had stellar sessions, E and others! 9 to 11, took out my new (Vernor) small wave/mush board just because I hadn't had a chance to surf it yet. But by my reckoning it was not very small and not at all mushy. My first wave I somehow dropped right into a barrel and was in the green room---seriously, no shit---for a solid 10, maybe 15 milliseconds before commencing the spin cycle. After that I spent a lot of time fighting current/rip, and watching fun-looking waves from various distances greater than zero feet. Still, it just felt really good to be out there today: clean, non-life-threatening waves with some punch, offshores, sun, just a few other folks nearby . . . I'll take it.

Posted by: kloo at January 6, 2005 11:43 AM

Kloo's view this morning

Posted by: e at January 6, 2005 11:53 AM

surf

Posted by: e at January 6, 2005 11:57 AM

btw..... a historical piece on surfline talks of the days before surf forecasting. new surfers who know nothing of the time before surfline might enjoy the perspective.

ccccrrrrraaaaaaacccccckkkkkkkkk "this report is for point arena to monterey bay and out 60 miles."
ccccrrrrraaaaaaacccccckkkkkkkkk " sf bouy is 8ft at 20 seconds." ccccrrrrraaaaaaacccccckkkkkkkkk
"winds are forcasted east at 3-8 knots over the region." ccccrrrrraaaaaaacccccckkkkkkkkk

sorry for the daydream........


Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at January 6, 2005 11:57 AM

Reality Check- thanks for the low down. We thought it was a coast guard station which allowed grazing rights. It was the only place going off on our drive back to the city. Doubt I coulda caught one though based on the offshore knottage.

Posted by: traut at January 6, 2005 12:07 PM

No worries steamwand, I'm undisputed ruler of head tripping sessions club, you won't be a member for long. 2 days ago around sunset I got quite stuck inside trying to come in. Next morning I couldn't get OUT. And at a supposedly easier section of beach. Ha! Hubris! After countless rows of whitewater on the head, I went ashore. Then started to go outside again, realized it had become not surfable, and this time couldn't get back IN for the longest time. I'm going mental. However, last evening I spotted a burly anonymous guy in the exact same rippy black hole of aggravation I was in the evening before - deja vu - paddling forever, paddling diagonally, getting pulled back into the rippy vortex of hell...fark, thank you mister, at least I know I haven't been totally hallucinating!

Every skunked session = uhmmm, 3 barrels. Good ones. It's really adding up...

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at January 6, 2005 12:13 PM

I'm thinking about checking out the spoonbender show tomorrow night. Been too long since I checked out some live muzaq. And spoonbender puts on an interesting show...

Posted by: caveman at January 6, 2005 12:15 PM

are men pigs?

Posted by: exactly at January 6, 2005 12:30 PM

16 years old

Posted by: bbr at January 6, 2005 12:37 PM

i saw a kelly's cove local boys sticker yesterday. I've seen the kid (owner of truck with sticker on it) many times. He's probably around 18. I've surfed with him a bunch and he loves to grimace and mutter profanities under his breath. He also pumps his fist and grunts Tu-Pac lyrics.

Posted by: e at January 6, 2005 12:54 PM

Hey I, no name here. Just mussing around, glad to see I pushed a button or two, I really feel that if I could only see the images and not get dragged into the text, (my own fault), I would have a more positive feel about the stokedness of this site. Suggesting you shut up is just a suggestion, you don't have to take it, I could go elsewhere, and not post here... Just seeing what the market will bear, troll style lack of anything productive to do turth be tlod. I am impressed by the heartfelt responses, why should I post my real name, ok I will

Posted by: Elephant Egoist at January 6, 2005 01:01 PM

The Kelly's Cove Local Boys had a re-union about 2 months ago. I spoke with several of the attendees. They are all old friends that used to surf Kelly's Cove 30+ years ago, and the ones I know are good guys, and not related in any way to any recent localism incidents. They had an awards ceremony and gave a cool present or two to the man of SF Surf History.

If there's an 18 yr old driving around a truck with such a sticker, the sticker prolly belongs to his dad.

Posted by: blakestah at January 6, 2005 01:16 PM

Fine workmanlike session yesterday afternoon and gonna play hooky again today. I will work next week- I promise.

E. I know of that youngster with the truck and the "local boy" sticker. I see him and his bad attitude in the water and happened to be in Aqua a few weeks ago while he was in. Part of me wanted to sucker punch him and part of me was just sad. I know testosterone and adolescence are a bad mix but I hope his head comes out of his ass soon. We are seeing how hard it is to just live in the world (tsunami, etc...) let alone when we muck it up (9/11, Iraq war, et. al.) that is hard to stomach extraneous aggression by the priveledged.

Regarding Web's (I hope after Web Pierce) call out, my real name is Jeff Matt.

Posted by: goodmorning at January 6, 2005 01:16 PM

12/17/04-My best session of '04. Big thanks to Bruce for the memory...you rule.

Hosted by Imageshack

Posted by: at January 6, 2005 01:19 PM

smellys smove smokle smoys

Posted by: robin williams at January 6, 2005 01:54 PM

The Radio Shack weather radio was standard equipment for a surfer before the web and 976-surf. I still have 1 on the desk, 1 in the car, and one in the garage. The wood simulation is awesome! I miss the German dude and ominous voice though...

Posted by: Mark A. at January 6, 2005 01:57 PM

diroberts found these



Posted by: e at January 6, 2005 02:46 PM

That was not a german dude. That was a computer generated voice that started in the mid eighties (around 85 I think) to save dough. Prior to that it was a different guy on different days. In the late 70's, they all had personal touches they put on. It was that and Bank Wrights guide. Oh, and the stoke of the unknown.

Posted by: web at January 6, 2005 02:54 PM

you ol timers rule! keep the stories coming!

Posted by: ol timer fan! at January 6, 2005 02:57 PM

Posted by: at January 6, 2005 03:01 PM

that seagull pic is pretty ill traut.

Posted by: j at January 6, 2005 03:03 PM


OB Redux

Tomorrow I will sport a pink jockstrap on the outside of my tattered wetsuit. This symbolic will represent my surrender and willingness to become and be a part of the NEW fraternity of Noriega street "locals." Never mind the experience of the last 20 years - I want to go through it all again. Not.

Slug fest in perfect surf nearly ruined by the antics of one of our more obviously latent homosexual-hillbillies. I get the nagging sense that all he really wants to do is kiss me full on the lips. YUCK.
All that then "Big Red" sliced and diced some poor guy's little shortboard - the sound of it was like the wind ripping off the top to a trailer in a hurricane -. I took off late - backside, arched the turn late for kicks and then pulled in and maybe yes it was a closeout and maybe no it wasn't. Either way next thing I know this guy is there and at the last second when he should have completed his duck dive he looked and was so frightened that he simply threw his board directly into my path. I drifted and lifted the board over his as much as I could by jumping upwards, but my fins made contact; - S-like slash marks on the rail and near the nose of his brand new little shortboard.
He asked me to pay for it; I say we let the niceness tribunal judge this one?
The more I try to paddle away quietly from the self I was the more the soul snatchers want to eat my heart for lunch in their burrito's. I can't wait to move away to a warmer climate. The next 5 years here should be a real mess. Retired from the rabble sold over to niceness.
Lates,

-Retired Rogue

Posted by: Local 415 at January 6, 2005 03:04 PM

"Web Fingers?" Say it aint so! What happend to " Big Rick" Stewart? Sal's over at KTVU with Bill.
Gee whiz "Web" what sand dollar did you crawl out from under. Do you know " Terrible Ted?"

Posted by: Local 415 at January 6, 2005 03:08 PM

Echo the note on the computer generated voice.

Doof and I had lunch at my house. Very fast waves. Lots of almost there rides, and lots of nice ones for those able. We both connected up on some good ones but no tubes made.

Doof took a fin to his Calf and cut through the wet suit, although the bruising pain is greater for him.

My last 6 or so rides were supposed to be the last one. Every time a good start, nice bottom turn, and...

CRAP, I am two feet from where I need to be. I can't end on that one. My last wave cinched it though as I took a rail to the thigh on a close-out tube. Only Doof's pain is abating mine.

If anyone knows a blond older Kneelo that rides a blue green board and was surfing midway today, tell him to look behind himself every once in a while. I got stuffed by him on a 50-50 situation. No big deal, but then I saw him drop on 4 other dudes in more obvious situations.

I guess I could have talked to him about it, but I never got that close to him after the innitial transgression.

Posted by: friend #1 at January 6, 2005 03:09 PM

Rouge,
What a beautiful line..."paddle away quietly from the self I was"
Awesome. I could never have said it better.

Local 415.. I am not an OB guy, I am a Southwest corner San Mateo County guy. Sorry you missed your connection...

Posted by: web at January 6, 2005 03:21 PM

That anon was not the charging charger of chargness! He's an imposter who talks all day like only a talker could talk. Not only that, he is also all talk who talks about how good a talker he is but only talks a big game about talking. Speaking of talking, what's with the bad talk about good talk that should be talked about more. That talker talks a lot, but that is all that he does...talk. I charge like a good charger should charge on chargable days like today...totally chargable if you can charge like me on chargable waves that charge...or you can just be a talker.

Posted by: Mavs Charging Charger at January 6, 2005 03:30 PM

that kneelo could be none other than ksusa, although the poor etiquette sounds like someone else

local 415 - if it was in his hands when you ran over him, you pay for it, every dime. If he ditched, let him eat cake.

Posted by: sunset 94122 at January 6, 2005 03:42 PM

Old time stories are great. My education brings me about from the ship side of things. I find it funny that Maverick's was never a secret spot, but listed as a shipping hazard in navigation guide (it's also note by Band Wright as unsurfable). In school we had a lecture from the guy (1 of 2) that makes the FMOC models. It's impressive that these guys are PhDs, and Sean Collins undertook the task with just a bit of sailing knowledge. It almost seems to me that the task for the amateur forecaster nowadays is not finding data, but filtering it. But as I still listen to the dial-a-buoy marine forecast on my cell just to pretend I got weather-band radio.

Waves, though, were never what they used to be. After the 1906 quake, they started planting grass and building houses in the outside lands. It used to be all sand from Twin Peaks down to OB. It musta been wicked. There were still big dunes Fred Van Dyke was out there, and he said that Flieshaker's (in front of the old Flieshaker zoo, by the windmills) was the toughest spot he ever surfed. With wave and wind power generation projects, I realize that in the future, there will be even fewer waves around.

Posted by: Andrew on 57th at January 6, 2005 03:44 PM

cheers!!

to the sun!

and blue skies!

and academic calendars!

Posted by: korewin at January 6, 2005 03:57 PM

i love missing perfect waves..


Posted by: :( at January 6, 2005 04:04 PM

We wanted to kill Bank Wright! His book exsposed 4 Mile for Christ's sake! I swear the German dude was before the phony voices... Unless the guy on the wave aimed for and hit the guy paddling out, which I do not think happened but could be justified given the right circumstances, the guy paddling out is responsible for any and all damage. Holding on or not! If someone is up and riding and you are paddling out you have an olbigation to get out of the way, period, end of story. Leashes, me generation entitlement, slackers, and lawyers have given the lazy a crooked view of how this works. I hate those people who think they can, and try to, paddle for the shoulder. Stop paddling, take the beating, and let the person on the wave be. Whoa, two "hates" in one post. Gotta settle down, get back to managing, and be nice.

Posted by: Mark A. at January 6, 2005 04:05 PM

I like talking about charging, but not charging waves, charging on my platinum card, which is not particularly platinum as it is maxed and I am unemployed. Would you believe that I am landlocked and when I am not posting on this site, I am charging up a storm at nordstorms. Too bad I don't have a platinum surfboard for this surf board. San Diego Faux Charger

Posted by: at January 6, 2005 04:20 PM

It was a random surf-accident and could not be avoided.
Neither maliscious or waranted just plain HIM being in the wrong place at the wrong time. I always yeild and take it on the head rather than trying to save myself the trouble in a freezing cold or lost situation.
If it were a stranger I would have laughed - said sorry and paddled away but the thing is I know the guy and he's essentially a nice aquaintence. Personally I would not ask anyone to pay for damage to my board unless it was a blatent deal...
Like someone said in the lineup, " Shit happens."

Posted by: Local 415 at January 6, 2005 04:23 PM

from rob born's site..

Posted by: e at January 6, 2005 04:23 PM

i just had to cough really loud to cover up a fart i was letting. friggin' put a chick in the cube next to me.....

Posted by: j at January 6, 2005 04:27 PM

Mark A. - Could be the German dude was a person, I just remember going through a period of trying to figure out the computer voice, and connected it with the german dude. I had never even used a computer, and could not figure out what the deal was with that voice. You go back before me. I started surfing in '77, and the Bank Wright book was always there. I always loved the Bank Wright book. I was so hungry for information and adventure. Agreed with the paddle out rule. Get out of the way of the rider. Unless the rider aims for you, collision is the fault of the paddle out guy. If there is the rare occurance of confusion on which way the rider is going, I stop and sit up on my board to show the rider I do not know which way to go. (does not happen often) Taking a beating is no excuse to crowd in the rider. If you cannot handle the beating, go in and wait for smaller day.

Posted by: web at January 6, 2005 04:27 PM

real or fake?

Posted by: at January 6, 2005 04:46 PM

i think that's real beer in the cup.

Posted by: j at January 6, 2005 04:50 PM

I also wanted to give a shout out to the first surf blogger/unwanted local, Captain James Cook. In Warshaw's new book he has excerpt's from Cook's journal about watching a surfer on a point break in Tahiti. Cook himself couldn't swim, and considering the sailed around the world on 40' vessels, those old time limeys had such an awesome respect for the sea, it must have been magical watching the sea become a plaything.

Posted by: Andrew on 57th at January 6, 2005 04:54 PM

Just back from a fun session at Ocean Beach. After month in the South Pacific, surfing FAST, FAST, long, long barrels breaking in waist deep water over a coral bottom, this afternoon's waves felt slow and easy - but man, wearing all that rubber felt weird and it was COLD - culture shock!! I've got a few shots from one of the smaller days of our trip (had a hell of a time gettin' my wife to let us take her new digital camera out on the boat). I'll try to post 'em once I figure out how.

Posted by: Jimmie at January 6, 2005 04:58 PM

Web, thanks for the reply. Your right, at the time Bank Wright's book was very cool although we still had a hit out on him. I still have it somewhere. Looking back, it was so minor compared to what is out there now. In the future your going to have to book your wave of a set in advance, pay the toll, and shred.... The skin is real!

Posted by: Mark A. at January 6, 2005 05:04 PM

The only thing real in that picture is Gomer's gut...

The "beer" in the cup is Bud - fake beer if ever I saw it...

Both hairdos colors are fake...

The tits are stoopid

Posted by: dmc at January 6, 2005 06:13 PM

December- ahhhhhhhhhhhh. Even for a big wave wimp and marginal photog it was wonderful. End of the day blog spam submission.

Judith at Mavs:

OB on 12/17

OB on 12/19

Mavs on 12/05

Posted by: Bruce at January 6, 2005 08:38 PM

December- ahhhhhhhhhhhh. Even for a big wave wimp and marginal photog it was wonderful. End of the day blog spam submission.

Judith at Mavs:

OB on 12/17

OB on 12/19

Mavs on 12/05

Posted by: Bruce at January 6, 2005 08:38 PM

Joking about spam. . . sorry for the double post.

Posted by: Bruce at January 6, 2005 08:40 PM

Mr KSUSA and I surfed South Mid-beach 4-dusk. I fit the description more... but it wasn't us!

Posted by: SFKneelo at January 6, 2005 09:20 PM

any of u niggas surf grey whale cove today. no, atleast i didn't see anyone else except me and my bro all day long. damnnnn, that was some good shit.

Posted by: eliasDR at January 6, 2005 10:08 PM


Here you have Aleks Petrovich on his 5'6" fish... Look for some more from this pre Chrismas sesh some where near Calgary.



Posted by: mexi at January 7, 2005 12:11 AM

http://www.paulferraris.com/personal/gra/yr01.jpg

Posted by: mexi at January 7, 2005 12:17 AM

holy f'in s*@$(%^(@#$*& batman!!! tired..hungover.....and it's flooding. water straight pouring in thru the walls, and about 2' of water in the front. WTF?!?!?!!

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