nughuffer
Fun, empty waves this morning. A few chunky, voluminous grinders in the mix. Get changed in your heated car because it’s farking FREEZING out there. Nobody around through most of the beach. Find a sandbar and commune with the waves all by your lonesome.
Yesterday, however, more people than I’ve ever seen along our local stretch. Every person in the bay area that could get their hands on a surfboard made it out. Maybe 1000 surfers between dawn and noon? Probably more. Gentle, fun, offshore-groomed head-high peaks. I watched literally 12 people paddle into the same ledging closeout. It was ridiculously crowded… And I was part of the crowd! Nevertheless there were plenty to go around. Good to see Steamwand out there.
Saturday saw some bombs at local spots. All day the swell pumped and unloaded. Heaving, double-overhead, top-to-bottom pounders cascaded in from 2000 miles away. I paddled out on Goodmorning’s old 7’6” minigun. (Goodmorning you rule!) After some board-ditching and salt-water inhalation and general inside mayhem I made it out and waited for a wave. My boy Brett took off on the first wave of the next set, a large, overhead++ left that he worked down the line. A second wave wafted toward me and I saw that it was really A-framing and bowling up. Without much time for reflection I started paddling and fading into the deeper part of the wave. The bowl began to suck and cavern and suddenly the offshores were blinding me and I was pointing near strait down.. A few more paddles and I was over the ledge and pigdogging the gun into oblivion. Elevator-drop-style. I barely held my line but made it down and through the drop, with a fantastic view of the large, thick, groundswell wall reaching out to my left. I was still in a critical part of the wave, with foam and gurgles all around.. I could feel the barrel behind me and see the large, oval shape of the wave reach up over my left shoulder. Fucking speeed too!! Daamn!! Big waves rule! A great session with some other rides that I’ll remember for a while. One good over-the-falls wipeout too!
Thursday night I got a call from Jocular that he was set up with a house off Bonny Doon road, near Davenport. With the new swell supposed to peak Friday morning I packed up Goodmorning’s gun and drove down to Santa Cruz County. Jocular and I ended up surfing large, girthy, mega-juice pointbreak rights for 2.5 hours with only two other dudes. For some reason there weren’t many people out looking for surf as the swell raged in Santa Cruz County. Even the Lane wasn’t that crowded?? Dunno why. But.. God damn, pointbreaks on a big swell with little crowd can’t be beat!! Some long rides were had. Maybe longest rides ever for me? Goodmorning, that board fucking rawks!! Sick! One of the dudes out there with us broke his leash and his board floated all the way into to the beach. It was getting bashed on some rocks pretty good. He tried to swim into the beach (a little pocket beach) to recover it and ended up getting sucked the wrong way by the brisk current. Next thing he knows he’s getting thrashed against a sea-stack. Bang! Bang! Worked! We didn’t even notice but his other friend luckily took a wave all the way in and saw his friend in trouble and helped him out of the bind. Crazy! A good lesson to have an escape plan if you loose your board and have to swim in. This guy didn’t play it right and ended up with gashes on his face and body!
Anyhoo! I’m out for two weeks! I think that Kaiser Sose will be updating the reports.
Thanks for reading and have a rippy holiday!
a few pipe shots
settin' up for the pit
pigdog pull-up
glassy cavern
another pigdog fan
settin' it up
is pigdogging just a passing trend?
soon to be pitted
fun fun fun this morning. thankfully the crowd wasn't like it was yesterday. that north bound current was killer around 11am. i got sucked from middle beach to the chalet in like 30 minutes.
e, tell the fam i said hi.
merry christmas everyone!
Posted by: lerm at December 20, 2004 10:33 AMsolid biggies on saturday and fun shorey on sunday... can't complain one bit about the waves this weekend.
Posted by: bbr at December 20, 2004 10:40 AMYo, if anyone found/finds a TC red white and black FCS fin on Ocean Beach near the north end can you please email me at jmmr2003@hotmail.com?
Capped off a great session Sunday with a big wipeout and the fin broke off on my thigh. I am hoping it washes up and someone finds it and emails me so I don't have to buy a whole new set.
THANKS!!
Posted by: jammer at December 20, 2004 10:40 AME, sorry I missed ya this morning. Would have loved to grab a pre-holiday sesh with ya before you left for the left coast. Looked pretty doable but cold...Sounds like it was.
Saturday I too hooked up with Jocular down south. We had a little SF posse run down the west side for some business then a north county surf before the sun set. A couple of the regular footers scored some sweet rights while my goofy-ness hit up a nice left with another regular footer. I think we all were pretty fired up on the waning swell wrapping in to the north county reefs. It was actually good to get away from the OB beat downs and get the wave count up a bit.
Sunday - good times again. Good current going after the tide switch. It was really noticable as I drifted past my lineup point. Tried to fight it but didn't work out.
To all, sorry the comments section was all f'd up on Friday. I posted the update so y'all could post away but I think I hit the "save" button too many times as the page never loaded up.
Posted by: Kaiser at December 20, 2004 10:58 AMJammer, I think you can hook up just single replacements on those fins. Not sure, but Aqua might have some singles. Also, you can score some sets from Fiberglass Hawaii in SC if you ever get down there.
Posted by: Kaiser at December 20, 2004 11:03 AMKaiser - thanks for the info! That is good news.
Posted by: jammer at December 20, 2004 11:15 AMscored head high offshore peaks. trading waves with just one other, south of ob. love this time of year. peeps shopping. peeps going home to see the family. WAVES uncrowded.
Brucey qualified for the CT next year.
e, peace and prosperity to ya!
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at December 20, 2004 11:17 AMyeah, i think e got a great view of me eating it on my very first wave on my new rfs/schultze 6'6" pin tail. it took some getting used to, but i ended up getting some really fun rides. wish i could take it with me to RI for the holidays cause the waves are gonna be good, i think. but i can't afford the cost or the risk. (makes no sense that they charge you 100 bucks to ruin your equipment.) so i'll be riding my bro's nine-o.
Posted by: steamwand at December 20, 2004 11:18 AMjaws photos from last week taken by Surfdad's brothers
Posted by: e at December 20, 2004 11:33 AMdamn, E, you get a lot of vacation time.
Posted by: Damn at December 20, 2004 11:36 AM3 weeks plus i take unpaid leave. plus we're closed from christmas eve to Jan 3! not bad.
no raises though.
Posted by: e at December 20, 2004 11:44 AM
Posted by: mexico!! at December 20, 2004 11:51 AMi'm not unemployed, i'm on unpaid leave.
i don't have trouble with cocaine, i just like the way it smells.
i can't quit drinking, 'cause then everyone will know i am an alcoholic.
Posted by: at December 20, 2004 11:54 AMWhat a season... Blessing in disguise to be unemployed right now. For those that are interested, the Surfline Video of Jaws from last Wed. is RIDICULOUS.
Posted by: Walker at December 20, 2004 12:02 PMfor how shitty the summer was.. this fall has been epic. imho.
Posted by: e at December 20, 2004 12:14 PMbackside bottom turns are so fun!
Posted by: at December 20, 2004 12:24 PMManhattan Brett representing, (Great Job Bruce)
Posted by: tom at December 20, 2004 12:29 PMgood on ya.
Posted by: Damn at December 20, 2004 12:30 PMYES, THIS FALL AT OB HAS BEEN THE BEST THAT I CAN EVER REMEMBER. MOST CONSISTANT FOR BOTH SWELL AND CONDITIONS!!!
Got some more OB photos on Sunday. Hope to post tonight (ran out of energy). Fun to see Jeff Clark at his home break on Saturday. 10-6 quad fin which he said was too big for the day. Guess he muddled through OK. :-)
Posted by: Bruce at December 20, 2004 12:39 PMwhat a country!
i have a fever and an ear infection but it was worth it..
i agree with E's ho
Posted by: bagel at December 20, 2004 12:50 PMI want one of these for Christmas...
Posted by: Kaiser at December 20, 2004 01:06 PMBut, if you can't find one of those, then this will work too...
Posted by: Kaiser at December 20, 2004 01:09 PMHey Bruce,
Posted by: ? at December 20, 2004 01:31 PMWhat lens are you using for Mavs cliff shots/
OB?
Gentle, fun, offshore head high waves?! AGH !! Why did I have to hear about this?!! Missed actual good surf on Sunday.*shrieks* !
Hey e, I think " large, girthy mega juice " might explain your lack of crowds. ;) Poor beat-up swim-in guy!
Thank god OB doesn't have rocks! Just logs, old tires, and the occasional telephone poles.
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at December 20, 2004 01:33 PMSat. was totally empty in the afternoon mid/north; Sunday after 11 the crowds were not so bad but not so good either; I had to pig-dog to get around a paddler on one drop, missing the section, and a guy dropped in on my last wave; both easily earned by my behavior on other occasions. Still plenty o' fun to be had.
Posted by: klooless at December 20, 2004 02:16 PMzzzzzzzzzzz
can someone please start an argument.
Posted by: tom at December 20, 2004 02:17 PMSaturday I shot from the bluff with a Canon 10D with a 300mm F/2.8 lens with a 1.4X extender. If they were a bit further out I would have used the 2X extender, but the quality of the pictures suffers a bit. Just ordered the Canon 20D which is 8 megapix. Hoping to get it before the next Blakestah sponsored meteorological event.
Posted by: Bruce at December 20, 2004 02:21 PMDoughnuts for a Donut King, guess who I am?
Posted by: at December 20, 2004 02:37 PMi got back in the water this weekend after a month out due to injury. went out of town on sat - didn't want 3x ob on first day back! - then ob on sunday. very fun, soooo good to be back.
out of shape and out of practice wasn't much of an issue - the big thing was losing resistance to the cold water. i got borderline puke inducing ice cream headaches from duck dives and hold downs on saturday, unusual for me. seemed better on sunday - thank g_d!
happy chrismahannukwanza!
Posted by: vons at December 20, 2004 02:44 PMare you gonna sell your 10D?
Posted by: bbr at December 20, 2004 02:45 PMsurfing rules!
so fun!
Posted by: e at December 20, 2004 02:56 PMya ya ya... gypsy weedwhackers.
Posted by: elias at December 20, 2004 03:03 PMbbr- I'll probably keep the 10D as a back up and maybe get a housing for water shots. But it's a pretty darned good camera- many of the retail outlets are selling them at a discount now.
Ran into one of your bb friends on Sunday who said he was hooking up with you. Guy works for Toobs out of Morro Bay? Got a few OK shots of the sponge crew but it looked like the inner bar was a bit fickle. You guys still nailed a few sick barrels.
Posted by: Bruce at December 20, 2004 03:12 PMKaiser, was that you doing the superman routine? That was a nasty thrashing.
yeah that was my friend wes, he reps for toobs and is a bit of a blowhard but is a good guy. it inner bar was good for like 45 minutes and then just shut down. i saw you in the lot on my way out and witnessed that longhair guy show you his new board with the naked chick airbrushing. woulda said hi but i was already late and in trouble with the woman. your camera setup looked pretty sweet.
Posted by: bbr at December 20, 2004 03:21 PMuhhh... replace that "it" with "the"
Posted by: bbr at December 20, 2004 03:22 PMGuess who was charging like a good charger should...Boo Yeah charge diddy charged it last night at a charging Farallon reef-point-barrelling-tow in-topless-charge spot. Waves were definitely chargable...but the paddle out was a bitch!!! Left early morning last tuesday from Mavs...so sick of charging that chargable wave...needed some chargeness. Lost my board about fifteen miles out (do I continue charging or charge for home?!) Of course I went on charging!! Body surfed two chargable chargers, but the charging stopped when the charging really began to charge. Only call was to MEGA CHARGE! Wrestled a Whity into submission and forced him to tow me into some Potato Patch mackers...Charged it (of course), but the Whitey wasn't dealing. Found a family of Orcas and charged westward to Jaws...minor! Now I'm lounging in a Tatitian bungalow with two topless virgin midgets, some angle-food cake, a family of Orcas, and a wireless connection...I'm fucking charging. It's good to be the charging chargeness of charge. CHARGE!!!
Posted by: Mavs Charging Charger at December 20, 2004 03:23 PMcharge those charging chargeables!!
Mavs Charging Charger rules!
Posted by: e at December 20, 2004 03:29 PMcharger you sure are a pain in the ass
Posted by: at December 20, 2004 03:46 PMhope all peeps are getting some waves... i think i still have water in my head from saturday. got some surprizingly awesome beatdowns from some south of SC spot. awesome aqua colored water. the only bummer was the aholes dropping in on me. twice i got stuffed. blatently. but the waves made up for it...
probably one of the last posts from me this year. i hope everyone has a awesome holiday and new year. keep the stoke.
kill the hate with kindness and keep surfboard riding.
here's a christmas board pic for all of you.
time to shift the paradigm.
Posted by: elias at December 20, 2004 03:55 PMsick shot bruce. Did Judith take off on any this day?
Posted by: e at December 20, 2004 03:56 PMbummer that shark pussed out MCC..but sweet those killer whales hooked you up!
Posted by: bagel at December 20, 2004 03:58 PMe, have a good trip back east. fun times chilling on friday.
also good to see kaiser and company on saturday. ck, i can't stop thinking about those bowls. clean glass, bobbing heads of seaweed, and mushy, large peaks softly bowling up for us. bowl bowl bowl.
californiaistheshit.
Posted by: j.o.c at December 20, 2004 04:17 PMGlad you like the board E. It has seen some good days and some abuse. It will treat you well especially if you remember to inspect your leash before you go out!
I finally got out again last night after a week and a day of getting creamed at Tarantulas- didn't think that Socal got that big! Had a fun with the chest high goof off until a guy ahead of me jettisoned his board on a duck dive- his fin almost punctured THROUGH my board's nose. Fortunately it was getting near dark and I had to come in anyway.
Anybody with ancedotal input on the real length of time a badly bruised and perhaps cracked rib might take to heal? Meds say 6- 8 mos. can that be right? All I know is 2.5 months later it still hurts! And it is not helping my surfing.
Posted by: goodmorning at December 20, 2004 04:19 PMTalked to Judith on either Thursday or Saturday, and asked if she rode any at Mavs. She said she did a summersault in the middle of one peak, and some other thing on another (I did not catch the full description) and so she asked, "Does that count?" I told her I had seen pictures of her on Bruce's site, and she said, "Don't show those to my mother."
And that is not the Doof going over the falls in that shot a few posts up, if the anon poster is trying to joke on his first name. Doof rides a big red board when he knows in advance that it will be Double O. His pic is on the first line.
Posted by: friend #1 at December 20, 2004 04:24 PMMCC, sorry for dropping in on you in the Potato(e) Patch. My bad.
Saturday I was too a-scared of Ocean Beach, so I went to Linda Marginal. Body surfed for over an hour in the shitty close-outs. That crap is tiring. I burned enough calories to feed a family of hippos.
Sunday morning at an end of OB in the early AM. Didn't seem crowded to me...plenty of unridden waves still when I left.
One more day until the sun starts rising earlier...dawn patrols for the white collar are a-coming soon.
Posted by: Andrew on 57th at December 20, 2004 04:28 PMGoodmorning,
Anecdotal input on rib injury. I bruised/cracked (no x rays) my ribs in April this year and they still hurt on occasion, particularly after hard paddling days and long sessions. I was out of the water for more than a month and ginger for a long time after. Those things are a bitch, good luck with yours...
Posted by: hrothbart at December 20, 2004 05:06 PMBruce, can't claim that to be me! Not my board anyway. I could understand that if it was me I might have some sort of memory loss specific to certain situations like that one.
I do recall seeing that happen but I was a bit south of that peak I do believe.
Posted by: Kaiser at December 20, 2004 05:08 PMGot a surprise "arvo" opportunity when my wife changed her plans. A couple quick rides, several speed-bump wipeouts, nose into chop on take off, one face-plant where all I remember is my eyelids peeling off . . . great fun.
I haven't seen as many creatures in the water lately. Is it because it's been bigger, or colder, or what?
Posted by: klooless at December 20, 2004 05:30 PMIt is winter. Wildlife season at the beach is mostly July through early October.
Posted by: blakestah at December 20, 2004 05:35 PM
Posted by: bbr at December 20, 2004 05:43 PMif you're measuring in hawaiian scale... those waves don't even exist
Posted by: bbr at December 20, 2004 05:45 PMi think you would call those waves -10 ft. looks fun!
Posted by: bagel at December 20, 2004 06:59 PMNegative posts don't count, ignore them.
New OB photos at Photos 15.
Posted by: Bruce at December 20, 2004 07:28 PMNegative posts don't count, ignore them.
New OB photos at Photos 15.
Posted by: Bruce at December 20, 2004 07:28 PMnice bruce! aaa sunday
Posted by: bagel at December 20, 2004 07:36 PMSaturday at the beach
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Posted by: surfdog at December 21, 2004 12:16 AMTry it again
Posted by: surfdog at December 21, 2004 12:18 AManother one
Posted by: surfdog at December 21, 2004 12:22 AM
Posted by: at December 21, 2004 04:26 PMtest?
test2?
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Posted by: empirepoker at January 20, 2005 09:20 PM