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Woooohoooo!!

I know that yesterday I promised not to get publicly psyched about conditions anymore. But since the lineup was completely empty this morning at a random beach somewhere in California I’ll let out a little woot woot and just linguistically bask in the afterglow of the high-performance succulence on offer. Bigger and burlier than yesterday. Angry, spitting turbo barrels. My all-time favorite conditions. Not huge.. but barrelling and rifling on inside bars. Ledging, suckout drops. Waves that fucking whip your ass down the line like you’re being hurled out the end of a jai-alai cesta at mach googleplex. FAST!!! Adrenaline drops. I managed a few rides and a few drops that are instilling me with this feeling of comforted relaxation and uplifting after-the-fact-excitement. Just a warmth and exhilaration in the pit of my stomach. One ride right in front of Lerm I kind-of faded deep into the building wall on my takeoff and then pounced smoothly to my feet with balance (something that doesn't happen all the time!). I got slingshot down the face and then came off the bottom with so much speed that my eyeballs were sucked back against my brain and my cheeks were all flapping in the wind. I pumped and set up my line for a few moments and then rode up to the lip and moderately clicked off the top… no time for laying a rail because this wave was not waiting for that type-of shit.. i re-entered and then just started pumping like a rabid hyena and then flew up to the lip again and kinda chinked a nice divot off the chunky thing… then an air-droppy re-entry and more down-the line speed channeling.. Going so fast. Damn! Seriously one of my best rides of all time. Fucking fast as all hell. Not that I surfed it that great.. just that the wave expressed such concentrated power and force. To spend a few seconds in the pocket of all that significance, just to stand there and be moved along by that serendipitous conglomeration of natural occurrences felt amazing. Blah!! Then later in the sesh the waves were really walling up and bigger sets were coming through.. Some reaching overhead++. I had my mojo working for once and I dropped a few bombs (for me!) that will stick in my mind all week as I chill in Philly, far away from the wonderful Pacific Ocean. To balance all this claiming out let it also be known that i got farking crunched 3 times trying to take-off deep into barrelling/maybe-closeout waves. One wipeout the lip came down on my head and i got pummelled chin first into my board. Butt.. on one of the good ones I just remember stroking in and seeing the large wall divot out from underneath, scooping and hollowing, gulping and pitching. Looking down the line into what is *almost* a closeout section.. but lining up just enough to allow the crafty surfer to maniacally sprint toward freedom. I just threw myself over the ledge, hugged tight along the wall, and accelerated down and to the right, staying low and riding my inside edge. Not even pumping but just riding the raw natural force of the wave. No need for pumping. I remember the view of the overhead, mega-glassy wall encompass the entire right side of my field of vision. Just a vertical wall of liquid beauty. That feeling of acceleration and drive. No sound. No memory. Only nowness. All senses fully attuned to the current moment. Rushing and reacting. Flying from danger while self-expressing down the line. I love it. surfing friggin rules!

macho man randy savage!!

in all fairness today was not a day for beginners at OB. When you see barrels happening and you're not confident in your abilities... head south to Lindy or north to Bolinas.

have a great week all you heads! give thanks for what you have! enjoy yourselves.

jai-alai dude with cesta

commitment

thwack!

Duuudge!

pitted

yeah

fuck yeah


Sick!!!

Posted by: tucker at November 19, 2004 10:31 AM

Say what ever you want about the conditions, you don't post till later so if someone wants to complain tell them to wake up early or maintain their space. I love it when people paddle out to my spot it just makes me move aggressive and I surf better because I am constant movement to protect my area. There is no time to whine. No soup for you.

Posted by: anti-swastica at November 19, 2004 10:40 AM

-your mom ate my dog!
-not the whole thing

Posted by: steamwand at November 19, 2004 10:52 AM

How's the water temp? I was using my 3/2 but it was a little uncomfortable after an hour. The 4/3 is in the shop. Awesome story, sounds like fun!

Posted by: Nate at November 19, 2004 10:55 AM

Took the wrong board to OB this a.m., shucks...it looked so sweet out there. Big, hollow, steep, windswept...

Saw some really long rides on the high tide: sections seems to open up and then stretch out. Saw a logger being chased down the line by the lip and then momentarily barrelled. Saw a lot of ocean energy and sweet rides and people committing to getting mashed.

Wish I coulda taken the day off work, shucks...Hopefully, we'll continue having good surf.

Posted by: amigoism at November 19, 2004 10:55 AM

Gee I can't wait to see how everyone posts to assert their dominance over everyone else again today. Even e's friends are like "above it all" now? Yeah you guys are dicks too, just like the people you ranked on yesterday.

W H A T E V E R M A K E S Y O U FEEL SUPERIOR!!!!
RIght!


Love, MM, purveyor of Psychology Today Magazine

Posted by: MONKEY MILK at November 19, 2004 11:01 AM

right on E.

have fun in philly
good thing your surfed out silly
pack some herb so you can chilly
stashed right next to your willy
no problems from the men with the billy's

peace.


Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at November 19, 2004 11:07 AM

Great post, E! Except the part about Lindy---I'm guessing it sucks today. Maybe further south to hide a bit from the NW swell. Good advice . . . that I didn't take. 9am the paddle was doable, plenty o' energy and Ethan describes the waves just right--seems unassuming until you catch it and watch the bottom vanish, zoooooming you into something or other. My first few rides were really lucky: way fast drops into clean, steep walls that didn't close out for a while. Of course I didn't do them justice of the sort E describes, but just drew a wiggling line on the wall and enjoyed the ride. Then I dropped into a couple that closed out quickly, and learned what I was playing with---I haven't encountered the bottom so much in a session in a while. Still finding sand in surprising places . . . Probably it was stupid for a kook such as I to be out in these conditions, huh? Hmmm.

(I was in 4/3 with a hooded thermal rash-guard, and it was very toasty. I just got the (O'Neill) rashy, and it makes a big difference.)

Moreover, I hereby assert my dominance over everyone. GRRRRRRRR!!!

Posted by: klooless at November 19, 2004 11:08 AM

WTF? It was good and not crowded? Shit, should have turned right instead of left.

After four days of Creamy, the peanut butter switched to Chunky Style.

And where did that crowd go?

I actually drove to surf thinking the channels might be more defined at the showers. Started north of the Street proper, and 30 minutes later got out near Cornhole.

Only other guy out was the one I had started the paddle with (I think he got out easier than I). Pretty big dude for as small of a board as he was on. We traded waves and near misses for an hour. Took a long time to find that last wave in and it was not all that satisfying. Good thing I had gotten a couple earlier.

After a long, long walk back to the car I watched two guys out not really catching anything as I dressed.

Posted by: friend #1 at November 19, 2004 11:11 AM

lol klooless.

Posted by: e at November 19, 2004 11:17 AM

cool, lonely sesh friend #1.

after all the drama yesterday.. the waves were even better today and nobody around for miles?? what gives?

explanations?

Posted by: e at November 19, 2004 11:30 AM

5 PM O-street run....25th and O, 5 PM, be there.

Posted by: blakestah at November 19, 2004 11:32 AM

my excuse WORK. my dawnie days are few and far between right now. one day, hopefully i'll be able to buy the 750k fixer upper in the fog for all this surf sacrafice. then it's kegger time.

kloo your a DOMINATOR!

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at November 19, 2004 11:42 AM

radical

Posted by: bagel at November 19, 2004 11:55 AM

YAARRGGH!!

Posted by: e at November 19, 2004 11:56 AM

Back in town this morning. Couldn't DP 'cause I wanted to see my kids before school. I'm headin out this afternoon. Winds are 7 knots out of the North at OB right now. Hope it doesn't shift NW.

Posted by: steve-o at November 19, 2004 12:23 PM

OB is handing out some serious surf this morning. FALL RULES!!!

whoops, did I name a spot?

Posted by: judahpeak at November 19, 2004 12:34 PM

have fun in Philly! Thanks for the continous stoke.


IIIIIIIIIIIn West Philadelphia born and raised, kickin' the hackeysack is where I spent most of my days..
chillin' out, maxing, relaxing all cool ...

i got in one little fight and my mom got scared and said "you're moving out to Ocean Beach to the be near the ocean air"

Looked at my kingdom I was finally in reach
To settle my throne as the E of Ocean Beach

Posted by: Hb at November 19, 2004 12:34 PM

DONT MENTION RAMA DNIL OR SANILOB!!!

N ONE KNOWS MY SECRET SPOTS!!!

OH YEAH BABY! TOUCH MY SECRET SPOT!!!

Posted by: FUCK MAN!! at November 19, 2004 12:35 PM

Pretty good HB. You should do sitcom jingles!

Posted by: Dennis at November 19, 2004 12:39 PM

That jai-alai dude looks like he's got skid marks.

Posted by: Dennis at November 19, 2004 12:41 PM

nice riddim toast Hb!

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at November 19, 2004 12:46 PM

Sick of the drivel. Who cares about your awesome ride? not me anymore. Claiming is laming, Crowding is chowding. You're so east coast, enjoy OB, its all yours, well you and your friends and enemies too. Someone shut this guy up, or make it password protected so that average guys (like only real serf gods get to access it)like me don't stumble on this self serving served up slop. For a while I liked the pictures, guess I'll keep looking at them while ignoring the text. Can you turn off text and just let the images through, that would make it more than just bearable, it would be enjoyable then...Anon out

Posted by: at November 19, 2004 12:49 PM

3to5- best set your financial sights higher for that fixer upper around here, what a market...

Blakestah- I'll give you a call later this afternoon to arrange a drop off of the rfs- sorry for the delay, work has been a craphole. And a half.

Enjoy the trip E.

And wtf- I surfed veedubs yesterday morning- I didn't find no bad crowd, no bad trouble. The night before I surfed there on the old tanker, I did have a problem with a shoulder hopper who stuck to me like glue. Weird, but whatever. I also had a couple of nice long swims as I was leashless. That is the way to get in shape!

Happy Fuck the Injuns Day!

Posted by: goodmorning at November 19, 2004 12:50 PM

Explanations for the lack of crowd - Blakestah said it was "iffy" for Friday, Surfline had rated conditions as fair minus, and maybe some people realized that they should think twice before paddling out at OB. Who knows? But I'm thankful

Posted by: Donut at November 19, 2004 12:55 PM

BTW, here's a quiz for you southern end regulars. Where exactly is Cornhole?

Purple Cow?

I have a vague idea of where cornhole is, and I thought it was just me and Doof and friend #2 that used that term. But as I started my walk back this AM, there were two guys walking back from even further south. They walked past me as I was changing at the car, and I asked if they had made it out. They said yeah but they were way past corn-hole once they made it outside.

Anyhow, I caught my waves this morning in front of the big blue door.

Posted by: friend #1 at November 19, 2004 01:20 PM

paddlepaddlepaddlepaddlepaddlepaddlepaddlepaddlepaddlepaddlepaddlepaddlepaddlepaddlepaddle *leash breaks* - walk 2-3 blocks north - knot leash around leg - padd-WEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE....!
paddlepaddlepaddlepaddlepaddle...

1 hour, 1 broken leash, 1 poached inside mushrun. Classic. At least the sloppy ride was loooong and warp speed. Karma did prevail.

Breeze feels like it's wanting to spin around onshore. Not fully there yet.

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at November 19, 2004 01:22 PM

Donut, for me it's mid-terms keeping me out. Prolly a few others. With the exception of the single folks with part-time jobs or no jobs, surfing everyday sometimes twice a day for weeks on end leaves one with a long list of duties ignored or postponed. At some point, one needs to take care of business like laundry, bills, yardwork, get the car fixed. Nah, what am I talkin about. These are surfers. It's probably the reports.

Posted by: Dennis at November 19, 2004 01:25 PM

are slater and irons not compeeting(sp) in the triple crown?

Posted by: bagel at November 19, 2004 01:33 PM

Just in from Vegas since Monday and ain't had time to catch up.

Wanted to say I enjoyed the desription of your speedy wave today.

My all time favorite short description in the middle of one of your stories was .....

"erupting off the bottom with speed"

Today reminded me of that. In the future I will probably remember this excerpt "this wave was not waiting for that type of shit"

Posted by: tom at November 19, 2004 01:37 PM

Every scintilla of stoke is like a cheese grater, being slowly run up and down the backs of my legs. Fucking office prison!
Cazart mad!
Cazart smash!
ARRRRRRRR!

Posted by: cazart at November 19, 2004 01:38 PM

e

Hit up Guiseppes for a slice-----and tell Kus to get his ass out here in the spring.

Posted by: heff at November 19, 2004 01:43 PM

i just farted

Posted by: it wasn't j at November 19, 2004 01:44 PM

E--I have a favor to ask. If you're out and about in Philly, I have an old friend who've I've lost touch with. His name is Bill Jones (a pretty generic name--and impossible to do a people search), but he charges in surf and snow. If you happen in the Kyber Pass or a local record shop, could you please ask if anyone knows him--or David Love (of the band Blue); I'd be much obliged. Thanks for all the stoke.

Posted by: amigoism at November 19, 2004 01:55 PM

e -- great description! and fuck the potshotters. pathetic how these anon chumps can't spend an extra minute to think of their own little pithy monikers.

e, hope philly treats you right. do you know of tony luke's for steaksandwiches? the 'uncle mike' doesn't even have steak on it and it rocks. broccoli rabe!!!!!!!

kloo & cazart, thanks for the afternoon laugh. i'm dealing with a website "up"grade gone very awry, needed it.

Posted by: loon at November 19, 2004 02:00 PM

thinking of an avro...trying to figure out if its worth the stink eye from the clock watchers here...anybody got a line or guesses on the conditions vs. this morning? I promise I wont tell anyone...

Posted by: vons at November 19, 2004 02:52 PM

Unfortunately the NW wind has kicked up
Not much chance of an afternoon go.

The swell is 310 deg and 7 ft 12-14 sec, but mixed with 320 degree shorter period swell.
A storm off Kamchatka is really strong today and creating 36 ft seas. Its fetch is set to just clear the Aleutians.

It looks like the NW wind will persist through the weekend and through out next week tearing up the surf. Hopefully you got your fill in this week as next week looks pretty bad.

Posted by: blakestah at November 19, 2004 03:04 PM


i kick arse for the lord

Posted by: steamwand at November 19, 2004 03:21 PM

Just got back from a "lunch break" It was pretty warbled, winds are on it a bit, but still rideable. Fun drops

Posted by: caught_on_the_inside at November 19, 2004 03:23 PM

in case you haven't figured it out, the post above is NOT by me, but by a forger.

Posted by: blakestah at November 19, 2004 03:26 PM

hmmm. I drove to work today and brought my gear which included my semi. Maybe I should go home and get the 9' weekend warrior board. It crushes bumps. Oh well. I'll make a pass and then decide.

Posted by: Dennis at November 19, 2004 03:30 PM

Thanks Reality Check.

I remember back in 98 or whenever we had that humongo winter that basically shut down OB for the month of December. Anyhow, on the first day it was remotely ridable (and not horribly polluted), I tried paddling out at high tide between lots, and got stuck with no way in because the beach was gone there was only riprap.

I started paddling north as hard as I could, and I remember watching people walk along the cliff passing me by one after another.

I definitely felt corn-holed.

Posted by: friend #1 at November 19, 2004 03:31 PM

in case you haven't figured it out, I'm a forger.

Posted by: blakestah at November 19, 2004 03:33 PM

OB only slightly onshore, but from the look of things you'd think it was howling. Large, chunky, conflicting rows of whitewater, good luck.

I thought Cornhole was that place the sand gets into after one of those dredging wipeouts, but nobody ever admits it.

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at November 19, 2004 03:43 PM

well i'm givin it a shot thanks all have great weekends

Posted by: vons at November 19, 2004 03:44 PM

deep pits to y'all, even the haters

Posted by: e at November 19, 2004 03:50 PM

Dudes, long time lurker here. I've been reading this blog pretty much all the time since I moved to SF from Chicago a couple of years ago. I love e's stoke and the useful nugs of info for those like me who are relatively new to the sport.

Anyway, this may be a little off topic but I'm in the process of buying a new car and I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions for the ultimate surf / snow vehicle? I was thinking about the tourag or maybe a 4 runner. I go boarding at squaw pretty much all the time in the winter, surf lindy and ob in the summer and want a truck that is super comfortable, good for my commute to silicon valley and can fit my 9'6" locked inside. It sounds like a bunch of you have similar needs, and I'm sure there are lots of opinions about the ultimate suv for us bay area surf and snow people. Right now I have an audi A4, along with everyone else in SF it seems. Anyway, thanks!!

Posted by: Chas at November 19, 2004 03:50 PM

Posted by: e at November 19, 2004 03:52 PM

strech escalade. or hummer. range rovers good too.

Posted by: p diddy at November 19, 2004 03:53 PM

A Porche Chayanne seems right up your alley. You can do the MArina- silicon valley - Squaw- Lindy-Marina triangle in a day and you still can stop at Starbucks on the way.

Don't forget to call (cell phone from the beach) all your buddies on the way to tell about the surf that's going off and arrange a showing of Blue Crush to finish off the perfect day in the MArina!

Posted by: at November 19, 2004 03:58 PM

e-

That first pic is S-U-P-R-E-M-E! Definitely not narreled...

Have a good holiday

Pez

Posted by: PEZ at November 19, 2004 04:10 PM

chas.. you threw yourself to the wolves, man!

if you have to get a gas-gussling SUV, get a hybrid SUV. Lexus makes a hybrid SUV too. otherwise maybe a Matrix? If it's mostly for commuting to silicon valley SUVs are part of the problem. maybe a honda civic hybrid or a volks GTI or something.

Posted by: e at November 19, 2004 04:15 PM

e those pic's are tight. The only thing loose is your lips

Posted by: at November 19, 2004 04:19 PM

haha.. soo true dude.. i'm jonny babblemouth for sure.. sorry if it spoils your stoke.

Posted by: e at November 19, 2004 04:21 PM

Chas is a troll and knows full well that "tranny suv-driving silivalley summer-surfing lindy logging" are trigger words.

If I'm wrong about that, then sorry Chas, and fark off you tranny suv-driving silivalley summer-surfing lindy-logging kook!

:-)

Posted by: at November 19, 2004 04:21 PM

Imagine this when you buy your SUV

every 1000 miles you drive=
you just killed an iraqi and hacked the finger off off an american

Posted by: at November 19, 2004 04:25 PM

lates!

Posted by: e at November 19, 2004 04:36 PM

go with a SUBARU!!!
THE ULTIMATE SURF AND SNOW VEHICLE, BITCHES!!!

Posted by: Lance Rmstng at November 19, 2004 05:05 PM

Chas for President!!!

I nominate Chas for best post ever!!

Posted by: rcp at November 19, 2004 05:18 PM

Posted by: maaan at November 19, 2004 05:22 PM

BVB posting shots of himself again

Posted by: at November 19, 2004 05:23 PM

I second that nomination

Posted by: bagel at November 19, 2004 05:32 PM

all you anti-SUV people are hippy fags. you should go up to Humboldt County and live in a tree for a few months to protest deforestation - OB crowd control at it's best. idiot hippies like you would think that driving an SUV has some sort of impact on the Iraq war. Wrong. Go buy your macs, your birkenstocks, eat organic food and keep thinking that you are making the world a better place. In other words, keep dreaming. The funny thing is that I bet a lot of you look at someone driving an SUV and immediately dislike the person - without even saying a word to them. Is this any different than hating someone because of the color of their skin or their religious beliefs? No.

Posted by: johnny utah. at November 19, 2004 05:39 PM

I drive an SUV because I can fit the baby seat in the back, I can switch to 4WD when I go to the snow, AND I can fit my latte and my laptop and my mini-mal inside -- great for those after work sessions -- the boss doesn't even know I surf!! I love my SUV!!

Posted by: SUV driver at November 19, 2004 06:14 PM

Mid size german sports sedans, full size 4 door rides, volvo wagons and especially those beater volvo 240s w/ blue plates spewing black soot so popular in marin are all just as bad as suvs.

So why give the audi A4 kooks and hypocritical hippies with antique volvos covered with those stupid visualize whirled peas stickers a free pass? Its not fair to direct the hate exclusively at suv drivers. Its really gas mileage, some suvs guzzle and pollute but lots of other cars do to.

And there are suvs and there are suvs. An old cherokee is way different than a H2. Hating people on sight just because they have a cherokee is probably stupid and unfair, but hating the H2 driving jackass on sight based simply on the truck is essentially reasonable. Those fucking things put everybody else on the road at risk in any number of ways.

Chas rocks!! He should be the niceness mascot.

Posted by: Serf at November 19, 2004 06:38 PM

avro sesh was sweet if you are into lots of whitewater, small unruly waves on the outside and long walks back to your car. no crowds though so anonymous would have been pumped. glad i got on it tuesday and hoping for a good few days.

im not a suv hater -what people drive is their own business - but if you drive an suv don't be a hypocrite and put environmental stickers on it. so funny when you see a soccer mom or yuppie in their suv with a "keep tahoe blue sticker on it". clueless.

Posted by: vons at November 19, 2004 06:48 PM

classic post chas. it sums up everything surfers in sf aren't supposed to be - or at least what all the 'locals' get aggro about. even though most drive trucks...and those aren't any better on gas...

happy dead turkey day everyone. i'll be in florida for the week studying the dim and slow-witted homo-floridiens. although i'm really hoping to discover evidence of other life forms.

Posted by: rza at November 19, 2004 06:55 PM

johnny utah's last comment is kind of interesting, because it reveals something a lot (judging by things like SUV sales figures) of people seem to believe, whether they understand it or not.

that is, they equate buying and driving gas-guzzling, inefficient cars (and in a broader sense, a 'right' to consume mindlessly), with aspects of personal identity.

so when you toss them off for making poor choices, they take deep offense.

it's bullshit, of course, just as much as the hypocrisy in some of the berkeley granola eating crowd is bullshit.

but they believe it.

by the way, johnny, you might wanna pick up a paper and read up on what the "hippy fags" are up to these days. dropping acid at phish concerts must have gotten boring, because these days they're running around in black facepaint, toting semi-automatic guns, setting fire to SUV dealerships and torching urban-sprawl sub-developments as soon as the paint's dry. gee. think they're trying to tell you something?

maybe.

this is a little surfy blog, so it's way off fucking topic to get into the economics behind the "cause" in the "movement", much less the historical genesis of the american consumption-right delusion that is a principal catalyst for it, but johnny, you need to burn a few more brain cells trying to figure it out, boy. it ain't as simple as you think.

Posted by: jack nevada at November 19, 2004 07:36 PM

you all are a bunch of whining pussies.

Posted by: 182 at November 19, 2004 08:09 PM

you all are a bunch of whining pussies.

Posted by: 182 at November 19, 2004 08:09 PM

Count your blessings.

I poked my head out of the window of my 46th and Cabrillo Chateau today and saw.......

SF is one of the most blessed towns on earth.

Decided to get back to my 1987 orientation with Ocean Beach and pulled the 6ft9 Mongrel out of the bag.

After 30 or so mins. of greeting the Gulf of Alaskas bounty and getting decimated by opportonity(Finnegans article ran thru my mind all day) during my paddle it at long last occurred to me:

Im a transplant in spite of being born here.

Ocean Beach doesnt care who i am.....or will be.

Surfing is no different than all the other sports i hate.

"Bridge and tunnel" is facist

Gavin and Billy didnt have caring parents

The deli counter staff at the fulton/la playa Safeway dont get enough compliments.(ive seen bob wise be a snob to them)

The Cliff House is what it should be. Go there and tell the staff they are cool as hell and Danny Hontalis is a great guy. Check out the web cam they have www.video-monitoring.com The USGS has a webcam of Kellys cove that is just plain sick.

Finally, just before i finally made it outside today it occured to me.Treat women like royalty.Life is to short as it is so enjoy it fully. Go out of your way to take care of those that are in your life. Id also like to bring back a tradition recent newcomers to our city might not be aware of: If you are returning from the north bay, consider paying the toll for the Golden Gate Bridge for the car behind you, it WILL come back to you ten times over. The same with sharing waves.

Finally, does anyone know what kind of beer John Schultz drink? I take it from the last name he is german so would he like Spaten? Thanksgiving is near and i have a board ordered so it seems appropriate to take care of those that take care of us.

Peace and God Bless Niceness

Posted by: Sutro D at November 19, 2004 09:26 PM

Dear Lonny:

Come lately Lonnie? - 'When Lonnie comes marching home his head blown off - his leg and limbs blown off - hurrah hurrah'.
GOOOOOOO WAIANAE. Buncha kids there is dead from da war.
Yeah - fuck the Indians, Spaniards and those fucking Mexicans. FUCK all you Chinamens White guys, Niggah's, slope Filipino mother fucking invading Dutch German English banger eating sausage heads. YEAH! - AND FUCK THE FRENCH TOOOO. FUCK THE ENTIRE FUCKING STUPID FUCKING WORLD!!!!!! YOU'RE ALL OF BUNCH OFF ASSHOLES.

Blam.
So you surfed the beach. Big Fucking deal. So the fuck what.
E: It's like youralls existence here is now a bit off, a tick out of time, a lot out of whack. You have become very cocky. It's like you think you own this place; the stroke of pen, your shiny pebbled words - these keys. Tilt.
And this:

This Philatrocity East Coast thing of yours has always been our worst image of the nightmare invasion. Phily in art. Phily in Style. Phily this Phily that Philysurf?! - you know what?
Take it back to freakin' Phily already.
We've had it.

Posted by: B.V.B. (I think I came in my suit) at November 19, 2004 10:31 PM

John Schultze hasn't had a drink in a little over a year, and that is a GOOD thing - don't push him on that front. Buy him a coffee from the biscuit...

Posted by: blakestah at November 19, 2004 10:47 PM

Posted by: I at November 19, 2004 11:37 PM

E and crew, please chill on the all-time, every time euphoria. It's irresponsible and misleading. The best intentions of your “blog/diary” are turning our marginal sandy stretch into Trestles. Scratch the "30-40 insane racy walls" bullshit into your daily self-affirmation diary that you keep in the glove box next to the herb. Having assumed a medium for OB discussion, you now have a responsibility. Regulate or face the consequences.

Posted by: Cedar at November 20, 2004 01:54 AM

So, forget about my suv question, I know this blog is political and shit but I didn't mean to start an issue. Everyone has to drive a freakin car right? Hope to meet some of you heads in the line up some day. By the way, what is a rail saver? Just wondering...picked up the ditching commentary a couple of days ago.

Posted by: Chas at November 20, 2004 02:15 AM

back in the day -- when diapers looked normal on BVB instead of freakishly odd, and people didn't give a thought to gas mileage -- it happened on some big days that the bit of cord that attaches the leash to the leash-plug get pulled through / into the rail of a board, leaving a nasty gash.

so someone came up with the idea of putting something between the end of the leash and the little nylon cord, to provide some padding. hence the flat nylon loop strap with velcro most leashes now have. sometimes they need to be twisted or the cord needs to be double-looped to effect the proper fit and protect the rail.


Posted by: at November 20, 2004 07:13 AM

yeah mmmmm

Posted by: butter at November 20, 2004 07:59 AM

All you new residents to the bay area your clueless indignation is tired and lame. the ocean when i first started playing in it daily 30 years ago was cleaner. your big ass cars without a real need for them is lame. consumption with no concious-LAME. you don't need 4 wheel drive to get to the snow and certainley not for a surf. i've driven over 200 powder days in a ford escort. learn to fucking drive. i've never owned a car that got less than 25mpg. wise up fools your desire to be bad ass has consequences. become a concious caring citizen for the land you live in or take your red state mentality back home.

Thanks for keeping it real BVB!

e, i like your vibe. don't let the hate take you out.

Posted by: From Here at November 20, 2004 08:30 AM

it was really crowded today, especially in the usual places. lots of fun anyway.

johnny utah, thanks for giving us some insight into your little brain. seems to be a very interesting mix of willful ignorance and indignance happening in there. per chance is that brain sitting atop a frustrated little man-body?

Posted by: loon at November 20, 2004 02:49 PM

Personal choices do make a difference, but I also agree that "you are what you buy" is part of the problem. Greens who have hemp everything or Bad Boy wannabes in SUVs have both bought the lie. Don't feel superior even if you're taking a step in the right direction by attempting to live simply. Instead, have humility and try to share the wisdom behind living simply so that others may simply live.

As an American, just the fact that I exist is burning resources at an ungodly rate right now. Think about that flight you took -- wrappers and food everywhere, thousands of gallons of fuel, the water to wash the sheets in the hotel even if you were only there one night, etc. Today I can't get on a flight or go anywhere without that cost. I'm already cutting things closer by sharing a Honda with my wife and taking the bus to work each day, always carpooling to the beach, etc. But I can of course do more.

The trick is not to get caught up in guilt about all the things that are still wrong with your life or to lord it over others. As soon as you do that, they'll point out the hypocrisy (like Johnny Utah was doing).

The thing we need to spread is the necessity of living simply, the interconnectedness that ties your life to people in Russia or Cambodia or Oakland (like me!) We all drink the same water, breathe the same air, and so will our kids. It is absolutely necessary that we try to improve ourselves each day and encourage others to do the same.

Posted by: Nate at November 20, 2004 04:09 PM

J. Utah, dont you try to send more people up here to Hum. Co.

Quick ? for everyone. What happens if you own a couple of trucks, use 4WD 30% of your drive time, and need the clearance and ruggedness of a truck, would you be considered a sellot if you have a keep Tahoe Blue stick?

I work around the hipoc with the purchase of a beater 4WD 4 cylinder truck that gets me here and there with a MPG of around 20-22. Then a diesel truck that pulls more than I would ever want and gets 20-22MPG and can fit a baby seat in the back.

Both reliable and the cost for the two vech was around 27K. Thats less than your avg brand new SUV. I really dont care about looks and there is more money in my pocket from decreased fuel cost.

Oh yeah I dont have any stickers on my truck we get enough of that up here.

Posted by: sponger at November 20, 2004 04:51 PM

Does anyone know how much fuel is spent from all the teams that race in NASCAR within a year period? That would be a very interesting fact.

Posted by: sponger at November 20, 2004 04:54 PM

The thing I dig about e's blog is the obvious stoke emanating from it. I know the conditions on most days anyway, and the stoke that guy gets out of it is impressive. He motivated me to look for stoke on the more marginal days, and that has made me a happier person in general. Finding stoke and amazement in things others find mundane is a gift, one that e shares freely here. Nature's first green is gold. Stay gold, e.

Posted by: blakestah at November 20, 2004 05:12 PM

Posted by: at November 20, 2004 05:19 PM

All y'all don't know me! you think you can judge me...well you can't you tranny retards! I own this fucking land you fucking fuck kook fucks! I am B.V.B and you are all kooked out kook-fucks! I hate fucking kook fucking fuck fucks....arhhh!!! KOOOOOOOOOKS...fuck! THIS is my beach! It's mine damnit!...I hate kook tranny fucking fucks!!!!!!!

Posted by: B.V.B at November 20, 2004 06:02 PM

Re all the whining over the last few days about over crowding….

WTF just back from Sloat (oh gosh! I named a spot!) yes SLOAT – it was head high (occasional 10ft) glassy and beautiful sunny day. About 25 people there at 2pm down to about 10 at 4pm. Everyone happy, no moaning and waves galore for all to be had. What on earth is all the moaning about overcrowding? This was a weekend, everyone knew exactly what the conditions were going to be like, and yet it was pretty much half empty (guess it was a little busier earlier on tho).

If someone else posts about how this blog is contributing to overcrowding I’m going to seriously loose it. If you have some great spot up North that is semi unknown then I can understand your concern and not wanting to name - but if someone else moans about a post concerning a great day at one of a multitude of public very well known breaks, covered by a shed load of cams, reports etc.. on the edge of a huge city – then I will just consider them a complete fuckwit - or a troll.

My 2 cents on the car troll – if you’re going to use an SUV for surfing and skiing then at least you have some justification for owning one. What pisses me off is the pac heights housewives who use their fuckoff great leviathans to go between their tennis lessons, hair appointment and cocktail parties – and clog up the city.

If you’re going to chuck a load of shit into it, use it to cart surf gear, actually use the 4x4 on the snow etc… then I consider it less of a sin. And get a Scooby – cannot be beaten, good for everything and you can tell yourself that’d you’re not driving an SUV.

Posted by: ankors at November 20, 2004 06:02 PM

Sponger, as long as your trucks meet CA emissions standards, you're fine by me.

Don't forget formula and rally car racing in the emissions equation. I wish hybrids had a racing category of their own. That would spur improvement in production car technology.

Posted by: steve-o at November 20, 2004 06:09 PM

ILovETOFUCKFUckIngKOOKS!

Posted by: bvd at November 20, 2004 06:12 PM

10. Kook

A dumb-ass mug who be all up in a nigga's chips 'n' shit.

"Beat it, kook." God, that Yeltsin needs a beltsin... Tell that kook to beat.

Posted by: funny at November 20, 2004 06:17 PM

"Stay loose, haole.
What's a haole?
A tourist, a mainlander, like you.
I'm not a tourist.
Whatever, Barney.
What's a Barney?
It's like Barno... Barnyard... a haole to the max, a kook in and out of the water. Yeah?"

Posted by: Nate at November 20, 2004 07:58 PM

I tried last year to get a toyota hi lux diesel to replace my 4 banger. I would have had to import it and the cost would have killed me. It would have had a 28-30MPG and had the towing capacity of a V-6 toyota TACO.

Steve-O sorry to forget about the formula cars. What would the fuel comsumption be with those as well as monster truck, tractor pulls etc..?
So much waste to just show off.

Posted by: sponger at November 20, 2004 08:12 PM

Posted by: at November 20, 2004 08:18 PM

And does anyone have any recommendation for a good boogie board? With winter coming, it's nice to have something a little shorter than a log. I'm trying to get one before going home to Maryland for Thanksgiving. And hey do you guys get cellphone reception at the beach? I'm looking for a good phone that works from OB, if anyone has any recommendations. My friends would thank you for it.

Posted by: Chas at November 20, 2004 08:25 PM

Chas, have to give you credit, we bit the whole thing, Hook, Line and Sinker

Posted by: sponger at November 20, 2004 08:52 PM

LOL chas!

Posted by: steve-o at November 20, 2004 09:41 PM

bvbs got a website!

http://www.bikerfox.com/foxphotos2/

Posted by: I at November 20, 2004 09:44 PM

Looks like the wind is wrecking tomorrow. 20-30mph North. It was a fun week!!

Posted by: at November 20, 2004 09:57 PM

damn skimpy

Posted by: at November 20, 2004 10:27 PM

Posted by: B.V.B at November 20, 2004 11:43 PM

Hmmmmm....

gayrab

1. A self named moronic white blonde-haired liar that has named himself ARAB because he once wore a t-shirt over his head to simulate someone from an Arabian country. Use extreme caution when dealing with these types.

2. A self loathing and often pathetic male that constantly makes claims that he was there doing it all "back in the day." Often found showing pictures of himself with everyone in the entertainment industry. This is largely due to said person supplying celebreties with drugs (read: cocaine). Commonly seen on Internet discussion forums constantly touting how he rubbed elbows with any/all famous skaters, punk rock bands, and movie stars. Normal behaviour traits include: "My son will skate circles around you!" Or, "I've been skateboarding for 40 years and I've skated over 200 pools!" And finally, "I think waterfalls in pools are lame and you're a kook!" This person is very self absorbed and will always be seeking attention from his so-called friends. In reality, he has no friends. Also beware if he's seen online. He has a long history of making up different user-names to inpersonate other people. Thus duping a group of innocent individuals into thinking that he actually knows friends. He will be commonly found bashing, threatening, yelling at people while on the Internet. However, when challenged in person, he will have his nose buried very deeply into those same people's arse. At this point, do NOT make any sudden sharp turns. This may break off the Arab beak clean.

Also see: keyboardracer.com and manatee.

"I'm the almighty and omnipotent ARAB! I've been there and done that before you were even born, kook!"

Posted by: Serf at November 20, 2004 11:52 PM

what OB 11-13-2004

Posted by: jardinee at November 21, 2004 02:17 PM

Wow...nice pic Jardinee.

Now I know why I felt like a rag doll when I was out there the following day...

Posted by: at November 21, 2004 02:56 PM

Actually, I had a typo. These were from Sunday around noon. As you can see, he made the turn...

OB 11-14-2004

Posted by: jardinee at November 21, 2004 03:16 PM

Ah OK - makes sense it was Sunday.

I got in the water late - about 3. Don't mind saying that was the hardest paddle of the year so far. Break zone was like the beaches of normandy - people getting thrown about, broken boards, broken leashes. Took 45min plus to get out.

I slept well that night I can tell you.
Nice photos.

U see a blue sponge out there next time take a shot!

Posted by: at November 21, 2004 03:47 PM

With all sue Respect

There are few SF chargers.

you fags from the east south and north bay are a dissapointement.

True Blue i saw you.

Jeff amd Shawn your a pimps

you SF fags are a dissappointment

Women i appreciate your attempts but your so passe.

Good luck in Kansas or your next pathetic accomplishments.

Your crowds are not wanted here

Posted by: Herman at November 21, 2004 07:21 PM

at least we know how to spell

Posted by: fags at November 21, 2004 07:49 PM

I'm a local charger and I charge because I'm local and I'm a charger. East and North bay'ers don't charge cause they're not charging locals who charge locally when there is charging to be done. You guys are disapointmentals and are not chargers who charge locally on local charging charge days. Go back to Kansas because you can't charge here if you aren't a local charger. Jeff and Shaun are pimps because they charge locally on chargable days with me, the local charger of local charge status. So don't fucking charge on my local chargeness because you can't charge on a break that you don't locally charge. I'm the charger, you are a kook who can't charge locally.

Posted by: Herman's Bro at November 21, 2004 08:27 PM

that's some funny stuff! Laughed all the way up to the last charge.

Posted by: at November 21, 2004 09:59 PM

thats funny. jeff and shawn are awesome!

Posted by: jambi at November 21, 2004 10:02 PM


If I were a kinder man, Herman, I'd give you $10.

$5 for a copy of strunk & wagnalls,

and $5 for a dictionary.

But i'm not, so you will remain the poor, ignorant slob that you are.


Posted by: Your English Pimp at November 22, 2004 08:18 AM

Can anyone recommend a good massage
After many sessions + bad shoulder=
I serious need of some work
prefferably bu a hottie

Posted by: sore at November 22, 2004 09:57 AM

Can anyone recommend a good massage
After many sessions + bad shoulder=
I serious need of some work
prefferably by a hottie

Posted by: sore at November 22, 2004 09:57 AM

Quan Yin has cheap massage. Jordan is a great massuer. I suppose he is a hottie depending on your persuasion. If you are looking for a good massage and not a hand job, you should not be looking for a hottie, anyhow.

Posted by: friend #1 at November 22, 2004 10:03 AM

6th and mission..good massages

Posted by: at November 22, 2004 10:04 AM

if you want to be happy for the rest of your life, never make a pretty woman your wife. from my personal point of view, get an ugly girl to marry you.

Posted by: at November 22, 2004 10:42 AM

Woo hoo, back in the water yesterday. Went out at non-OB Ignored Spot (not really secret) and no one out. HOWLING side/off shore winds, decent size. Many barrels, none makeable. Takeoffs were totally blind as spray came down in buckets. Saw a beautiful rainbow, caught a couple good rides. On one late takeoff attempt, got pounded straight to the bottom, head first. Felt like this pic, but had a great time!


Posted by: Nate at November 22, 2004 11:15 AM

nate- I hit that spot too. everything was late and hollow and many many buckets of blinding offshore/sideshore plumes. Lots of closeouts, but it was the best bet within 12 miles of OB. By the time I got out there were close to 40 people there at mid-day. Sounds like you hit it early. Good for you.

Posted by: rcp at November 22, 2004 11:23 AM

11-22-2004

Paddled out this AM.

First one out that I could see, and only one till at least 7:30.

Caught few waves, nothing spectacular. Hard to find the right place to be.

Last wave was ok, and rode it to the beach where I saw a blond surfer staring out at the sea.

She walked home (or to her car) one way, I walked south to my car.

I was only 1/2 hour late to work today.

And Friend #1 looks to be going for a long lunch.....

Posted by: Mr Doof at November 22, 2004 11:31 AM

we had niceness peeps and niceness conditions in the late morning today

christian: thanks for letting me take that left bud! i was already late and desperate for a redeemer wave. hope you had a blast out there. it was pretty inconsistent while i was out but it seemed to really be coming together as i left the water...

steamwand, nice to meet ya in the lot, that's a keen eye you have for the rfs. sorry to have been kinda scatter-brained - bad mix of feeling rushed to get home and not wanting to leave. hope you had a fun session too! i bet john is putting in your finbox right now...

Posted by: loon at November 22, 2004 11:45 AM

Went out this weekend for the first time since being on hte injury list 2 weeks ago.

Saturday checked "secret" spot. Realized there was no one in the water, and no one around to fish my body out of the water. Went to highly visible spot, no surfers in the water. Bit too burly for my taste. Stopped at fairly popular spot, way burlier, exactly zero people in the water. Some guys waxing up in parking lot. Ran up a hillside to get a better view. Real burly. 20 minutes later, guy who was waxing in parking lot still in parking lot, I wondered who he was trying to impress. I wussed out and went to Pretty Sea, which put the Mar into marginal. Longboarders by toilet bowl creek, the rest was closed out, except for the north end. It was literally me and two other guys on the north end, all of us having limited success. But it was fun trying.

Sunday body-surfed at OB for an hour (figured out how to get my neck-seal tight). It's great, like bailing on every wave without getting dragged. When I ran up the beach to get my surfboad spotted another chic running north with a set of blue fins and no board, presumably another body surfer. She had a probably a 3/4 zip psycho II wetsuit, but she didn't have a cap, so I don't know if it was what's-her-face oft mentioned on here. When I started board surfing, I found the tops of the waves were being blown off into my face, hard. There were crazy amounts of spray, and it hurt. I felt like that scence in UHF when Wierd Al goes, "Now you get to drink from the fire hose."

Posted by: Andrew on 57th at November 22, 2004 12:17 PM

enjoy yourself its later than you think,
enjoy yourself while your still in the pink,
the years go by as quickly as you wink,
enjoy yourself, enjoy yourself
its later than you think..

Posted by: at November 22, 2004 12:21 PM

fun OB yesterday but it took patience. Some bombs out there, cool huge rainbows blasting off the backs. sick rip where I was, made the paddle out very easy but a lot of paddling in required to keep from getting sucked to Japan. burly fun stuff, nice day, good times.

i used to hit that nate & rcp spot a lot and had many good days but i've found over the past year its just got too f'n crowded to make it worth it given the inconsistent quality. crowd has really changed there in terms of numbers and quality of surfers, much more noticably than at OB.

Posted by: vons at November 22, 2004 01:17 PM

was that pantera album pic taken from an nba game?

Posted by: j at November 22, 2004 01:22 PM

Shucks to miss you, Steamwand! Next time.

Don't know where exactly you were, Mr Doof, but sounds like where I was. Didn't get much but some hammering oddball runs towards the beach. Not big but afterwards I felt like I'd been boxing. And I don't know how to box. Lost my neighbor, at end of session stared at sea trying to figure if he'd stayed outside or gone in.

Saturday a friend and I paddled around this big beach for the heck of it and then for shocking contrast went to mysto north bay beginner spot where people regularly ride waves standing on their heads. Never surfed there before. Totally hysterical. 0-2 foot glass. Ended up trying to knock each other off our boards. Even at that place there were gangs of guys on the beach, hollering at people in the water. I guess some things stay the same at every break.

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at November 22, 2004 01:27 PM

Sofia won the world title.

I like latinas better than aussies.

Posted by: tom at November 22, 2004 01:43 PM

I wasn't at rcp's spot but was in similar conditions.

Posted by: Nate at November 22, 2004 01:48 PM

saturday i lucked into some wind sculpted normally closed out lefts and rights at dusk south of ob. surprise arvo. stoked.

sunday, i sailed a good chunk of the alphabet trying to snag a few lefts. tactile, braille drops. all time visuals on a wipeout sequence made my session. i felt like a gust just kept me suspended hovering for a brief moment.

bstah, the new rfs looks very interesting indeed. any feed back on orca vs conventional planshape fins?

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at November 22, 2004 01:56 PM

">

http://www.roxy.com/content/photo_galleries/107-320-739-filenameLarge.jpg

Posted by: at November 22, 2004 01:58 PM

thats sofia about to get shacked

Posted by: at November 22, 2004 02:00 PM

OB both days. Sat low tide was nuggety outside; a few fun drops, most backing off pretty soon, but a cupla better ones. Sunday was like skiing in the wind-whipped freezing rain. I didn't get much along the 10 blocks I drifted until I decided to head in; got a nice long right ending with a nasty suckout section that I tried to drop into out of sheer what-the-fuckness (my head didn't hit the bottom all THAT hard). At that point I seemed to be in the rip that vons describes---I just waited for a belly-ride in, but found myself outside again, positioned for a pretty good ride; repeat, and the session seemed a bit more worthwhile. Amazing west-bound flumes of spray.

Posted by: klooless at November 22, 2004 03:26 PM

poo poo ca ca wee wee doo doo

Posted by: BvB. at November 22, 2004 09:19 PM

I designed the Orca with roughly the same area as a regular planshape fin. Just moved chord length from the tip to the middle. And from the base to the middle.

The biggest difference is in the middle of a hard turn. The Orca fin has a very noticeably better lift:drag ratio. Like, you turn hard on the normal planshape, and slow down some. On the Orca, you keep more speed through the same turn.

This sorta makes sense, too, because minimizing induced drag (drag during a lot of lift, or in the middle of a hard turn) with foils is done by smoothly tapering the foil from base to tip. Surfing fin planshapes taper a little from base to middle, and then have a chord length drop very very rapidly near the tip. This will generate a lot of tip vortices. The Orca was made to test the idea that you could get rid of these tip vortices, and it would be an advantage, with the RFS.

i can probably explain it better over a beer at the Sea Biscuit...but the bottom line is it rides better. And people like it.

I can't expect everyone to ride a whole buncha fins to test these idea out, but my garage has about a dozen planshape experiments that led to the Orca.

Posted by: blakestah at November 22, 2004 09:59 PM

Posted by: dino at November 22, 2004 11:43 PM

Posted by: at November 23, 2004 05:45 AM

damn

http://story.news.yahoo.com/news?tmpl=story&cid=570&ncid=753&e=3&u=/nm/20041123/sc_nm/life_newzealand_dolphins_dc

orphan thanksgiving at j's house!! if any of you couldn't afford to head home with your family this year hit me up and i can give you details. just a random bunch of college buddies and friends rollin' to town to drink and cook, should be...interesting.

Posted by: j at November 23, 2004 11:11 AM

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Posted by: empirepoker at January 20, 2005 08:27 PM
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