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Crisp, brilliant day. Out of control surf.

More rain last night. As the storm passed eastward it seemed to suck all the moisture along with it. This morning was/is immaculately clear. The ocean shone a rich dark blue. The Farallons sparkled on the horizon. Misshapen, tatterdemalion, foaming walls of whitewater could be seen cresting and threatening at the end of the street. Surfpulse reports triple overhead waves at the beach but it didn’t look that huge from my vantage. The violent, energetic effects of the storm are still being felt by the sea-surface. It’s also clearly evident that wind is the mother of waves. The severe local winds of the last 24 hours have generated wild short-period storm swell. It’s crazy to think that the swell generating storms of the Aleutians and the roaring 40’s create similarly chaotic local waves as they rage and blow in the middle of the ocean. As the waves propagate outward in the same general direction as the predominant winds of the storm, they change shape. As they travel across the ocean they begin to settle into more refined, distinctive bands of wave-form energy. Families, or sets of waves begin to coalesce into long, mature organized lumps of propagating, roiling energy. The further they travel, the longer the “period,” or distance between waves. With no opposing force such as wind or land the waves continue to congeal and collect into more and more powerful, distinct bands. It’s fascinating to thing how the physical process works. Pressure differences in the air create wind and storms. These winds blow along the surface of the water creating little ripples. The friction of wind on ripple gains in force until the ripples become wavelets, then grow into waves. The more sustained the wind and the more consistent the direction of the wind, the bigger and stronger the waves created. Then.. that energy of friction gets propagated through a liquid medium (ocean) for thousands and thousands of miles unless opposed by some other force! Isn’t that crazy? I guess it’s similar to waves of light through the cosmos, hurtling for trillions of miles, unabated and unopposed.

Life man!

Energy.

Waves.

Coagulation.

It’s cool to witness the physical manifestation of propagated energy. Only via a liquid medium can we humans visualize what a wave-form is. Waves of energy happen all around us and effect us in myriad waves, but they don’t take on a physical shape and appearance. Sine waves man! Calculus. Radio. Heat. Sound. Goodbuy waves. SUUURFFF!!

Couple of pics Jake took in Spain


I think the closest surfer comparable to bertleman is Machado as far as elasticity. Soccer, or football, whatever it's called is no joke every where else in the world except here. Strange. Jake, thanks for the pics, and the wetsuit recomendation. I'll probably invest in them soon.

Posted by: Ian at October 20, 2004 10:05 AM

bagel and Hb, this one is for you:

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at October 20, 2004 10:30 AM

OB! How bad do you want it? Cacophonious mess out the back, appears to be - dare I say it - a few surfable shoulders on the less consistent, thumpy spots, one or poss two more consistent muuuush burgers. 5-6, even 7 foot common, largest waves at um, uh, guestimate topping 9 feet, throws out whitewater [ heh I just typed "shitwater" by mistake ] in the middle before thumping and mushing out, 5-6 foot walls of whitewater that appear to be jumping up and down are common....somewhere off to the side of this crap is the surfish part. Paddle out looks to be a 6 1/2 -7 out of 10 on the nuisance scale, with increasing drag-you-underwater-to-the-beach factor the farther out you get. Hazmat suit required, it's visually beautiful but the beach is so stinky my dog didn't even try to roll in anything disgusting - she just absorbed the sea air. Ugh! Currently sunny, mild onshores, and suspicious cloudy haze on the horizon. Lovely, smelly day at ocean beach. Don't forget those rose colored glasses w/the hazmat outfit.

Too fun to type this nonsense..Cheers and pray for good surf,

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at October 20, 2004 10:56 AM

sweet! i always wanted the mud flaps and the luggage rack...

Posted by: bagel at October 20, 2004 10:59 AM

greets ya'll...


been in work related black hole for the past few.
tried to get out this a.m and saw things similar to
the ss sharkbait surf report..looked at points south
and saw largeness, unruly and shoulder-less surf
everywhere. definitely some size hoo-yeah.

maybe a clean up this afternoon? looking purty now....

HOW 'BOUT THAT BALLGAME? regardless who you
like...that was amazing! is A-rod the curse cure?
would that not be poetic. what an ass. cheater is what
i say and that it was reversed/ caught...is this THE year?

i'll be at kezar for game 7 in the spirit of hunter s
and kermit alexander if any one wants to join me....

Posted by: korewin at October 20, 2004 11:05 AM

korewin...great to hear that you're emerging from the black hole. re the game...too frickin' sweet! 1-more...1-more! well...until the next series that is! ; ) as for A-hole...oops...i mean A-rod...the part i loved the best was how he tried to act shocked and disgusted at the call reversal. that sorta "acting" may play in daytime soaps, but, fortunately, it wasn't playing for the umps! go Sox!

Posted by: ck at October 20, 2004 11:23 AM

korewin.. i might be down with meeting ya over there at kezar. I'll probably just ride my bike over. It's going to be packed no doubt!

also dick dale tonight.. hmm..

anybody get wet this morning or last night?

Posted by: e at October 20, 2004 11:56 AM

i quit surfing for to watch these games... and sheet, it's worth it.
totally awesome, and even better that the surf isn't working.

BOTOX FOR BOSOX! Yanks are a bunch of overpaid crybabies.

ok, back to surfing...

airbrushed a board last night. green hornet style. looks hot.

in other news..
bagel you should have ate the fig newton. i found one in my car two days ago and ate it. anyone heard of the 3 day rule. kinda like the 3 second rule. but different.

Posted by: elias at October 20, 2004 11:57 AM

A butterfly flaps its wings in the Sahara and dynamically causes a wave to grind the OB sandbars

Posted by: copious at October 20, 2004 11:57 AM

ca buoy: 30ft @ 17sec. briefly, anyway.

Posted by: at October 20, 2004 12:11 PM

Hey Bird!! My e-mail is toddsf95@hotmail.com. Thanks, Todd

Posted by: T.O. double D. at October 20, 2004 12:20 PM

Cool, that ought to make for a pleasant little paddle tomorrow morning! Question: is proper duck-diving technique any different for thirty-foot walls of sewage?

Great game! As the ball trickled away at first base and the ump signalled "safe", I was almost sure I'd seen this before, and that the Mets were gonna win it.

Posted by: klooless at October 20, 2004 12:21 PM

great Spain photos,

That latin obsession with futbol blows me away. we noticed it in costa rica to....85 deg. comparable humidity numbers, gotta be in the water even if you don't surf ...no lets run, sweat and kick the pelota

Posted by: over the falls at October 20, 2004 12:28 PM

Headed out last night and had about 45 minutes of surf before the sun went down. Pretty fun, not too nasty in regards to the water. We will see if I "develop" anything in the next 48 hrs or so. Gave it a look today but didn't really look possible except for the one lone guy that was giving it a go at the south end of our favorite Pacifica spot.

Posted by: Kaiser at October 20, 2004 12:29 PM

Is Jake going to tell us how the surf was over there?

Posted by: Matt at October 20, 2004 12:42 PM

from surfline

Viruses are believed to be the major cause of swimming-associated diseases, and are responsible for gastroenteritis, hepatitis, respiratory illness, and ear, nose, and throat problems. Gastroenteritis, which can also be caused by bacteria, is a common term for a variety of diseases that can cause symptoms such as vomiting, diarrhea, stomach ache, nausea, headache, and fever. Other microbial diseases that can be contracted by swimmers include salmonellosis, shigellosis, and infection caused by E. coli (a type of enteric pathogen). Other microbial pathogens found at varying concentrations in recreational waters include amoeba and protozoa, which can cause giardiasis, amoebic dysentery, skin rashes, and pink eye.

There is also what we call the "toxic cocktail" of pesticides, herbicides, heavy metals and other pollutants that are not monitored regularly and the health effects are poorly understood.

Here are a couple (very) extreme Surfrider examples from last year that resulted from presumed sewage spills:

Chris O'Connel had a cut on his arm and went in Mission Bay San Diego after a recent rain. His arm became infected with the Streptococcus bacteria and he almost died. Three operations and two and half weeks in the hospital saved his life.

Also, a member of the Long Beach Chapter of Surfrider Foundation became infected with the same bacteria after surfing near the San Gabriel River Mouth. Charles Moore of Long Beach was also hospitalized for two weeks."

Posted by: e at October 20, 2004 12:46 PM

Well aside from getting sick from bacteria in the water and all the discomfort that comes with it, lack of patience may keep you out of the water longer than waiting a couple days for the bacteria to clear out of the water. I'd wait if I was me.

Surfrider has not updated the water test since 10/15.

Posted by: Dennis at October 20, 2004 12:58 PM

Comforting...

Posted by: Kaiser at October 20, 2004 12:59 PM

hmm, guy with red eggy board sprinting across cabrillo at around 6:30pm last night... i think we had a kaiser sighting?

pop some vitamin c, man.

we went to the brewco for $2 tuesday and watched the sox instead.

Posted by: g at October 20, 2004 01:04 PM

e, yah that's what my finger was like. I was on Cipro for 4 weeks and then it was oozing a ton, looked like my whole fingertip was melting. They took a sample and it was some weird bacteria. I stayed on Cipro and some other antibiotic for 2 more weeks and it cleared up. The bone got infected for a while. Open fracture and sea water is no joke.

As for big waves, read some of the books about the Southern Ocean. Immense 50-100 foot waves constantly circling the globe. There is no land to block it so the storms circulate and the waves are insane.

I really liked this book about the Vendee Globe race. Made me a lot less scared of waves we see in the Pacific.

Posted by: Nate at October 20, 2004 01:05 PM

Quote about the Southern Ocean:

"Below forty degrees south there is no law; below fifty degrees south there is no God."

Posted by: Nate at October 20, 2004 01:06 PM

hola -
ian, i´m still stoked on the boz suit... flexible for sure, warmth is good, and price is quite alright. matt, i´m still here, so this report is in progress... but i think my recommendation after this trip is that the north coast of spain is better in sept. than oct. i haven´t seen any clean, NW swells, just luck of the draw though. lot of wind, lot of spanish surfers. definitely some less crowded stretches though. surfed today in galicia, overhead sets with 40 knot crosshore winds... interesting! some serious pits out there anyway. southwest swells hitting portugal... vamonos.

e, i dig the wave / energy musings today... never thought so much about the form of a wave... a peak of energy and its absence... I wonder what the human life looks like in wave form... solo bueno niceness!

Posted by: jacobo tubo at October 20, 2004 01:14 PM

One more thing. I hope none of that sounds like I'm pretending to be tough or don't get scared. I'm a pretty lousy surfer and get scared regularly at OB. But in comparison to sailing alone in 60 ft. waves around the world, you're not likely to get killed at OB. It helps to remember this to put things in perspective so you can go out there and push the limits (safely, being aware of what those limits are.)

Posted by: Nate at October 20, 2004 01:16 PM

Red Sox Payroll is 130 million.

2nd highest in baseball behind the Yanks 183 million.

Cheater? I don't think so. That's like saying crowding the plate is cheating.

Posted by: at October 20, 2004 01:19 PM

(photos from wavescape.co.za)
todos

Posted by: e at October 20, 2004 01:34 PM

damn

Posted by: e at October 20, 2004 01:39 PM

San Gabriel River... that ain't no river, just one big sewer. I love LA.

Cold Water Classic on starting today. The Lane looked like shitte (double entendre intentional)... evil south winds and turbid aqua. I hope they get hazard pay.

Posted by: dano at October 20, 2004 01:43 PM

jacobo tubo- am i hearing that you wuld recommend the boz suit? my new oniel is already falling apart (less than 6 mos.) and i am intrigued by the tailoring. i bought one as a gift for a friend but he promptly had to move inland to portland so i couldn't get a real report.

e- is the trunks take off todos santos too- looks a lot like yokohama when it isn't going left. man i want to surf some trunks water....

Posted by: at October 20, 2004 01:53 PM

As a big-time baseball addict who's favorite team was mathematically eliminated from the playoffs a couple of months ago, I find the Bosox fans quite amusing.

Yeaaah! Game 7!! Don't those poor guys realize that they're getting set up for yet another ultimate heartbreaker? I'll be on the edge of my seat waiting to see how the baseball gods dish out another painul loss.

Or even better, they actually win, everybody starts believing the curse is over. An Astros/Sox World Series is sure to result in some dramatic baseball calamity.

Great fun for a non-partisan fan!!!

Posted by: Baseball, not surfing at October 20, 2004 01:56 PM

That second picture on the first set of pics has to be South Africa. The kelp there is no joke. Huge nubs on those stalks.

G, is Cabrillo in Pacifica? If so, might have been me. I did the full on scrub down and then threw in a few echinacea + vit. C pills for good measure. I somewhat expected to wake up with something falling off me.

Honestly, the water didn't seem that bad. I know that is easy to say but there have been past sessions where you see this strange bubbling of the water once a wave crashes. Kinda like you a surfing in soda water or something. That is never a good thing. I did freak out a few times when I got water stuck in my ear past my ear plugs. I also spit about 700 times.

Posted by: Kaiser at October 20, 2004 01:57 PM

sweet ride 3to5. is that yours?

Man, where on surflie did you find that? I have a buddy chris MCconnel in SD. Haven't talked to him in about a month, and i left a couple messages within the last week and no call back. hmmmmmm, sucks!

Tomorrow's gonna be fun down these parts!

Posted by: Hb at October 20, 2004 01:58 PM

Front side or back side? ( Kaiser we need your expertise!! )

Big breasts or small ones?
Camel toe or floss?
Blondes or brunettes?
Quiet or loud?
In public or private?
On the beach or in the mountains?
Bush or tush?
When it's hot or cold?
Spanking or cuddling?
exotic or erotic?
SURF or SEX??

Good surf or average sex?
Average surf or great sex?

Posted by: John Kerry at October 20, 2004 02:00 PM

Front side or back side? ( Kaiser we need your expertise!! ) back side

Big breasts or small ones? big hogs
Camel toe or floss? floss
Blondes or brunettes? brunette
Quiet or loud? in between
In public or private? private
On the beach or in the mountains? mountains, sandy nuts get raw
Bush or tush? in the bush
When it's hot or cold? cold
Spanking or cuddling? spanking
exotic or erotic? exotic
SURF or SEX?? both

Good surf or average sex? good surf
Average surf or great sex? great sex


Posted by: ldogg at October 20, 2004 02:15 PM

It will always be about the ASS!

Posted by: Kaiser at October 20, 2004 02:19 PM

Posted by: Kaiser at October 20, 2004 02:25 PM

Thank you Mr. Kaiser Sose. Your input is always much appreciated. Sir, would you have any evidence to support your powerful claim??

Thanx..

The Niceness Crew/ Reef team supporters

Posted by: Wicked weasel .com at October 20, 2004 02:25 PM

My apologies folks. I forgot one..

Foriegn or Domestic??

Posted by: John Kerry at October 20, 2004 02:28 PM

Posted by: Kaiser at October 20, 2004 02:30 PM

I beg to differ.....

Posted by: Pussy Lover at October 20, 2004 02:31 PM

I'd kill those asses!!!!

Looks like it's cleaning up real fast...any good word?

Posted by: pez at October 20, 2004 02:41 PM

open ocean swell does have an opposing force: gravity

Posted by: at October 20, 2004 02:45 PM

Admitting to being a transplant New Yorker, I'm not missing the game tonight. As I will neither miss Dick Dale, I will likely be watching the game in some SOMA gay bar. Does that mean I need to sip Cosmos when watching the game? My spotty knowledge of that neighborhood indicates that Eagle Tavern may be the best place to watch the game. I'll be the guy dressed in the tie like he just got out of the office, sitting next to the bearded gentlemen in the ass-less leather chaps.

I spent a brief stint on an oil tanker. There are some mighty large waves in the ocean. I have nothing but the utmost respect for the 17th century hard-asses that went around the world in 30-foot long top-heavy sail ships with very little directional control. By comparision, I think your high-tech around the world guys have it easier today. Although we routinely loose ships 1000 ft in length.

Posted by: Andrew on 57th at October 20, 2004 02:46 PM

Mr. Weasel, please see the exhibits below as evidence of my claims:

Posted by: Kaiser at October 20, 2004 02:46 PM

pez,

Looked doable.. south side @ 1:00pm

good luck

Posted by: dropping fast at October 20, 2004 02:53 PM

nice call on the gravity as an opposing force for waves. Soo.. if, for instance a large wave began in a hypothetical earth with no land and no wind, would the wave propogate forever or would gravity and maybe some physical property of water eventually slow and stop the wave?

Posted by: e at October 20, 2004 02:56 PM

Not to take attention away from reef girls, but photo from nerd-related webpage. The top of the ship's mast is 82 ft above the waterline.

http://www.math.uio.no/~karstent/waves/index_en.html

Posted by: Andrew on 57th at October 20, 2004 02:56 PM

Somebody tell that guy out at Todos to hang onto his board!

Posted by: Dennis at October 20, 2004 03:01 PM

e - waves are not shaped, per se, by travel.

Waves in a distribution of periods are created by a storm.

The longer periods travel faster. So, they run in front of the shorter periods.

The attenuation, per distance, decreases substantially with period. So, 20 second period waves are attenuated a lot less across 2000 nautical miles than 10 second period waves. This has to do with both wave face steepness (in the open ocean), and time of travel.

Most of the loss is frictional due to air resistance. Most put it close to 25% loss in wave height per day.

I'm still in the black hole but I don't remember seeing Korewin in there.

Second generation finboxes are IN. But I am out for a week starting tomorrow, when I shall drive down, surf the queen of the coast, and drop a demo board off at Evan Slater's workplace, before business in San Diego.

Ciao ragazzi.

Posted by: blakestah at October 20, 2004 03:28 PM

YEAH YEAH YEAH, blah blah blah. I saw that film too buddy, you forgot to footnote your ocean waves as visible energy claim, buddy, Steve Hawk said it first.

Posted by: frank at October 20, 2004 03:30 PM

thanks 'stah.. i was hoping you'd chime in to refine my superficial understanding.. have fun down south!

frank.. not sure what film you're talking about?? I'm sure that many before steve hawk described ocean waves as energy waves made visible... so maybe i should footnote all oceanic observers through history?

steve hawk is the man.

Posted by: e at October 20, 2004 03:38 PM

i might catch part of that game. but if my ass is watching the box, tonight at 9pm ASP Trestles contest is on OLN.

Hb, not mine.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at October 20, 2004 03:39 PM

good afternoon, this is your friendly san mateo county local with the montara surf report.

wave faces are ranging from reallyfuckingbig to ohmygoddidyouseethat feet on the sets, and just under heymaybewecanmakethedrop on the strays.

shape is good, tubes are peeling off for 75 to 100 yards on the better sets, with approximately enough space to fit a hummer into. on its side.

note: the inside backwash is strong. a seal was seen to be snapped in half by it today around mid-tide. caution is advised on the paddle-out.

that is all.


Posted by: at October 20, 2004 03:45 PM

who's got the biggest tv and the cheapest beer in this fair city.

a few bosox fans around to argue with and then laugh at would be helpful too

Posted by: at October 20, 2004 03:54 PM

Hey Steama,

GOOOOOO Red Sox!!!!

Posted by: sf at October 20, 2004 03:56 PM

My 2 cents on wave energy: the shear (friction) between the wave and the air increases with the square of velocity (double the speed, quadruple the force, triple the speed, 9x the force), consequently high wind speeds can really tear a wave apart while low to moderate wind speeds won't do jack. The windspeed that makes a wave break nicely at the beach is more a fucntion of form drag on the wave face rather than frictional drag along the surface, so it's a lower wind speed than affects an open ocean wave.

Posted by: Andrew on 57th at October 20, 2004 04:05 PM

And the Manor report:
It looks damn near makeable on the 'tweeners. I reckon you'd get out if you timed it.
The sets are big, slow beautiful barrels. Long rides available for the pro's. Almost no breeze at all at right now. If you're comfortable in big clean surf today's your day. I'll watch.

Posted by: NZ Swell at October 20, 2004 04:10 PM

cold water classic site
http://www.oneillcwc.asglive.com/

Posted by: e at October 20, 2004 04:39 PM

This is some seriously web boring, infantile, gay surf idol worshipping, secret spot exploiting, OB exploiting sophmoric bullshit on here. Who the freak are you people? You sound like a bunch of tit horny, overwrapped in the spoils of your new found "home." Layered in a triad of green, blue and red courderoy, fleece wearing, SUV driving cotton only hemp beer drinking Abercrombie and Filth scrabble championship player transplant pot grower stoner cocaine night baller brats from the midwest and the fucking east coast.
ARGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHH. WE HATE YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Ripping Brazilian?! Neg on THAT Bro.
This sucks.
Why don't you scrotum ball loving SF transplant barney tree hugging e.comdot.com.mecommieinvaders from (Conn, Mass, Vermont, Colo, Missouri, Alaska, Maine, Michigan plates, Ohio, New Hampshire) - FUCKCCCCCCCCCCCKKKKKKKKK.ING BEAT IT OUT OF HERE!

Did I name your place of origin? Oh sorry. Did I step on your provincial mellow invader blind ethical demaeanor ? The one that snobs its way through the time of our lives
And you act ALL THAT!?

BEAT IT

Posted by: HAHAHAHAHAHAA!!! at October 20, 2004 04:50 PM

I love the rebirth. Its almost as comical the second time around....

Posted by: Kaiser at October 20, 2004 04:56 PM

Posted by: at October 20, 2004 05:04 PM

Posted by: at October 20, 2004 05:06 PM

uhh...it wasn't even funny the first time around dude. it still reeks of stupidity though.

Posted by: j at October 20, 2004 05:08 PM

HAHAHAHAHAHA, do you even surf? Real locals represent in the water, they don't go crying on an anonymous message board. You must be a pussy or a wannabe. I think you've seen Blue Crush too many times junior. Change your name to WAHWAHWAHWAHWAH.

Posted by: socal tranny at October 20, 2004 05:43 PM

hey NZ swell,

shut the fuck up man. I thought I told you last time to not name spots. go home transplant. Take your little SUV with the whale tail plates with you bitch.

Posted by: key-low at October 20, 2004 06:21 PM

Hahahaha,

you rawk man. these dicks along with the winds and bacteria have drivin this local to a life of triathlons and bike racing. I'm fucking out. It's all yours trannies.

Posted by: key-low at October 20, 2004 06:23 PM

I think Agnes is having another Herpes outbreak.

egp

Posted by: EG Pimp at October 20, 2004 06:34 PM

dude rawk brah! agnes is so punk rawk! wooo!

Posted by: I at October 20, 2004 07:07 PM

key-low, you misguided douchebag, nobody cares about naming a spot when the buoy's are reading double digits on both ends, the kook factor is just plain not an issue. chill.

Posted by: at October 20, 2004 07:28 PM

It was GOOD down here at sunset. If any of you know El P#$*!, you know you never get it with 4 people out. Big, fun, stormy, almost glassy, seals, dolphins ,surprisingly good smellin', pitchin', mushin', double ups, bouncin' you off waves, inside hollowness, empty beachbreak. Ahhhhhhhhhh.

thanks for the heads up on OLN tonight, the ALCS is all but over.

Posted by: Hb at October 20, 2004 07:36 PM

Drivin my girlfriend home from the hospital, after emergency masectomy, listening to the wallflowers we can make it home with one headlight, struck me as ironic. But she's still hot, not half bad in my opinion.

Posted by: dillon at October 20, 2004 08:04 PM

That's nuts, from what? Cancer?

Posted by: Ian at October 20, 2004 08:34 PM

Just back from OB. Beautiful evening.

Cannot believe there was no one else out (saw one other guy on the whole of OB and some lunatic swimming right in the break zone!). Although the paddle out was somewhat of a pain, screaming current with 10 ft walls of dubious colored water beating the shit out of me. Took at least 15-20 mins of non stop battling and duck diving to get to the outside. Once there got some good rides – no shortage of big well shaped swells, no wind and great conditions on the outside. Got caught by what looked to be the biggest wave of the day – sucked me back into it and threw me really deep – so deep I was dragging my board down from the surface with the leash fully extended – didn’t have a chance to equalize, and thought my head was going to explode!

Stunning sunset out there, mix of reds and oranges and purples – we stayed out until it was dark and were about to head in when a friend made it out – so we ended up out there till 8 – were in front of all the tents they’ve put up at the beach – so they had some big lights that threw just enough of a glimmer that you could judge the waves.

Anyhow great session out there. Hopefully I won’t wake up tomorrow green from all the raw sewage I ingested….

Posted by: ankors at October 20, 2004 08:46 PM

Just an off color attempt at depravity., with all the objectifying of women's askes and such, I figured what the heck. She still has em both, they are large and I like them that way, but with only one, I would still not kick her out of bed. My real estate agent succombed to breast cancer after making me a good deal on a house, may she rest in peace

Posted by: dillon at October 20, 2004 09:12 PM

Posted by: I at October 20, 2004 09:35 PM

shorey spot was ummmm.... a bit gnarly tonight.... sand in every orifice even after a shower. shoulda hit the north end though, spitting rights here there and everywhere. 7 hours till the dawnie, looks like it should produce the goods....

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