dark wet cold solid
Dark, wet and cold in the pre-dawn calm. Peel myself out of warm, womb-like bed. Vibrant, colorful shimmer on usually muted, grey SF surroundings. Olfactory freshness as overnight rain releases pungent flavors from street, tree and city. Wetsuit dripping and frozen. Ughh. Hold my breath as I slither into it’s arctic, clammy interior. Sky barely showing Monday’s light. Earplugs in, board under arm, out the door, hide the keys, scamper down the street. Over the great highway, onto the beach. Look out onto an empty lineup. Just a few dogwalkers and dawn-patrol joggers smiling hellos and good-mornings. Same people every day. Oily glassy, head-high, peaky, fun, barreling, warbly, strange, vacant, smooth, enticing, out there. Super glass! Slightly fetid, tangy taste/smell to the water. Enough rain to pollute the surf zone? Largish peaks loping in. Absolutely nobody for miles in either direction. Poundings on the inside. First ride a towering right. Get to my feet; notice the translucent, mesmerizing glassy face. Make the drop, turn off the bottom, feet not exactly right, wiggle back-foot back a bit.. pump… slow turn along the top, few more pumps, kick out the back. Good opener. Initial orange-ness pokes over Eastern horizon. Heart-fluttering glassy barrels crack and peel all around me. Tough to be in the right spot. Enjoy just observing the natural power, symmetry, speed and beauty of those temporal sculptures. Soon a left comes my way. Stroke in and take-off steep. Stand up like a man no pigdog. Carve off the bottom, then back up the face, off the top.. meander and trim down the line. Let the wave push and carry me. Momentary desire for more foam than my little chippy 6’6”. Another guy paddles out. Kinda nice to have a buddy. 2 surfers is the perfect number. I catch a few short rights… kick out the back. Conditions grow less peaky. Tide shift? Closeouts and not so many waves breaking on the outside. Getting time for work so I catch a suckout, crazy-ass left and then lay down and ride in on my belly. See my friend Brett with his dog Zeus on the beach. He asks if it was good. I reply “oh yeah, get out there homie.”
Lopey
Slates - what's going on here?
Reading this now. I like.
Also read John Mcphee "A Sense of Where You Are" yesterday. Story about Bill Bradley's basketball virtuosity at Princeton in the late 60's. Beautiful book.
also finished Neal Stephenson's 3-book trilogy "A Baroque Cycle." Nothing short of a total masterpiece!! I'm dumbfounded and warmed by his unrivaled literary acumen. I was both sad and happy to finish it. Go Neal!!
good job e i am flabergasted by your viscocity.
Posted by: bagel at October 18, 2004 10:19 AMnor-cal fires from last week
Posted by: e at October 18, 2004 10:38 AME,
You are such a good writer. Thanks for the inspiration everyday. The Lost is is a good book, I really liked the last story which is the title of the book. I've heard tales of the back gate many a time, Drew assured me it doesn't exsist. I'm in contact with Drew about stories, he has edited a couple of my stories, nice guy, the best surf fiction writer IMHO.
Don't people understand that all plans surfers make are tentative, based on surf.
Posted by: mexi at October 18, 2004 10:45 AMthanks mexi! I tried to mimic Drew's choppy, expressive prose in this morning's report. Very cool that you know the dude! he's a legend..
Blakestah predicts mucho rain! Good for snugglin' and movie watching/reading!! psyched!!
Posted by: e at October 18, 2004 11:05 AMf'd up and very OBish evening yesterday - blasting sideshore winds to rain so hard you couldn't see to total blow out onshores to calm and clean with a nice sunset all within an hour and a half. Ripping sideshore current. Not much in the way of waves but doable and occasionally fun. And apparently the crowds do not like these conditions.
Posted by: vons at October 18, 2004 11:09 AMOB is such a combination of warble, moosh, and sudden inside lurch, size is dif. to pinpoint - though shoulder/ head high... stuff... seem to be plentiful. Where the peaks are, well, that's the issue. Currently sunny w/no onshores..yet. They're waiting for their moment. 2 people about to give it a shot.
Post rain, and in particular, the first rains of the year, make me pause. Is it worth having Saltines being the staple of one's diet for 3 months? Gah
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at October 18, 2004 11:24 AMYo! Good to be back in the bay y'all. Go away for a few days and you realize how much you miss home! I was drolling over my cheese pizza all last week while all y'all were stuffin yourselves with glassy waves and endless stoke.
Well, I had to get back at it this morning. Running a bit low on "DP" info, I busted out of bed dead set on getting some surf. Trekked down to OB as the winds didn't look that bad. Couldn't see a thing around 6:40 but the sun was slowly waking up. I drove the beach and decided that south winds create some clean surfaces farther south. Headed there. Almost skipped but jumped in at our favorite little dumpy surf spot. Glad I did. Sat at the far end by myself and snagged a few head high fun ones. The swell was on the rise for sure. Pretty glassy. Beautiful morning but cold in the water.
What up with the salad on the inside? All kinds of crap in the water.
So, JDZ/Bagel, I need some advice on Namotu. Would you cats even bother heading there in November if you could? Waves/winds wise, what would one expect that time of year? Hook a brother up.
Posted by: Kaiser at October 18, 2004 11:29 AMAs the rainy season approaches, I look for advice and sea stories from my surfing elders. What's the worst thing you ever caught from surfing after it rained?
From talking to the marine mammal rescue place, seems like the seal lions catch some nasty kidney and liver infections.
http://www.nrdc.org/water/oceans/ttw/chap2.asp
"A recent analysis of the potential health effects of "blended" sewage (or inadequately treated sewage that is diluted with properly treated effluent) in Milwaukee concluded that the risk of getting sick from swimming in properly treated effluent was only about 0.1 percent, while the risk of getting sick from swimming in the blended sewage was approximately 50 percent."
Posted by: Andrew on 57th at October 18, 2004 11:30 AMWhoop make that a leetle onshores already. Add more whitewater
Posted by: s.s.onshore at October 18, 2004 11:30 AMI put up page of local pics, and E you are always welcome to post my pics...
I might be moving, trying to buy a house on donteatus road, might be elaving the city.
Posted by: mexi at October 18, 2004 11:32 AMKaiser, was that you walking south with a red Hobie thruster egg this morning around 7:30? Tryin' to put a face with the name...
Posted by: hrothbart at October 18, 2004 11:33 AMI've been averaging a book a week lately, especially with all the bus rides. :) I recommend "Confessions of a master jewel thief". It's long and is obviously egotistical in places but at least he's honest about the effect on his family. Also just finished "Analog Days", about the early inventors of the synthesizer. Neat if you're wondering how that all got started.
Posted by: Nate at October 18, 2004 11:37 AMHad some fun yesterday am. Nice glassy stuff. I wouldn't worry about the rain from yesterday. I doubt if it was enough to overflow the system. Though I did smell a stank from the drainpipes sticking out of the dunes at the south end of the beach...
I went out on my 6'6 Sunday morning in front of my house and just couldn't get into the waves. Shifty and bumpy mixed with glassy. So I went home and got my 9' weekend warrior board and moved further south on the beach. Seemed to be a much better combo. Caught a bunch of the outsiders while drifting back to my block where the same funky waves were doing the same funky things from earlier in the am. The waves in front of my house don't like the longshore currents too much it seems.
Posted by: Dennis at October 18, 2004 11:41 AMi'll 2nd that mexi. e, you're a very gifted writer. i wuz bummed to miss out this morning. had to be downtown for a meeting at 8am! that's just criminal. what do they think this is the east coast?
anybody else surf yesterday? e and i scored a nice little window in the morning, but by about 10:30 it just shut down. tide i think.
also, there were some discussions about tom (or tim) gras recently. i'm in the market for a new board and was thinking about having him shape one for me. opinions? anybody have his contact info.? christian, i think you recently had a board shaped by him.
Posted by: lerm at October 18, 2004 11:42 AMi recommend "Battle Royale" by Koushun Takami. the movie kicks ass too.
Posted by: bbr at October 18, 2004 11:45 AMMundaka.. from sarge's daily
Posted by: e at October 18, 2004 11:48 AMhttp://www.r2-dvd.org/pics/video/battleroyale_w_250.asx
Posted by: bbr at October 18, 2004 11:51 AMWent out yesterday starting around 10 - tide plus WIND killed it fast, missed the window. Started on light 6'8", at appox same time as Dennis? quickly ran in and grabbed the Flying Brick. Much much better except for dodging those super shallow dumping knee chompers while trying to get out of the water, to the delight of onlookers.
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at October 18, 2004 11:54 AMI first got out on Sunday at 7am. Went back for my bigger board at 7:40 after getting a couple disappointing rides. Finished at 10:30. There were long waits between sets--especially as the tide starting coming in.
Posted by: Dennis at October 18, 2004 12:03 PMHrothbart, t'was me. I was wearing a little cap. Usually don't but I was this morning, freakin water is cold as hell right now. You were heading out I think? Hope you had some fun. I wish I could have stayed out a bit longer but the 7-8 window was good enough this a.m.
Mundaka looks like a goofy-footer's paradise! Spanish waves, Spanish food, Spanish wine, Spanish women. Hmmm.
Posted by: Kaiser at October 18, 2004 12:06 PMky czar,
im not sure about the weather in fiji that time of year but if you score the right on that island you are very stoked. also the left can be great. i would recomend the trip just hopefully that time of year isnt monsoon season or something. we usually went in march which i beleive is the begginning of the good season i could be wrong though.
i explored north this weekend and saw some interesting things and surfed a place i never surfed before it was not so good though tide was too high than it was too low.
Posted by: bagel at October 18, 2004 12:08 PMYesterday I was out from 9:30 to noon, which took me from Rivera to Kelly's, so I probably saw several of you. Quite a range of different conditions along the way, but I ended up getting more fun/fast rides (on my 6'6") than I would ever have expected given the wind/chop/small swell/etc. In fact, the best ride was near the end, when a long-ish, steep right somehow lurched up out of what was starting to seem like washing-machine conditions. Long trek back to the car!
Posted by: klooless at October 18, 2004 12:12 PMHey Lerm, I just read your post about looking for a new board. I've had the same shaper for the past 8 years and he's super cool and affordable. ( 285.00) His name is Peter Benjamin, let me know if you want his info.
Posted by: T.O. double D at October 18, 2004 12:12 PMRode the RFS for the first time briefly this weekend at some beach somewhere that was trying to come alive but the chop eventually prevailed even if the wind was offshore. The RFS is fun. Fun. Fun. Fun. Don't think that I would have it as my principal board, but it fills a niche well enough that I could see owning one and being very happy with it. I can't wait to get it into some quality conditions....
E- gimme call this week about arranging for a board pick up. With the RFS here I have hit maxed out on the rack! City living is like being on a submarine (and I have a pretty big ship here). It's getting so you can't even give things away!
Posted by: goodmorning at October 18, 2004 12:56 PMseverson art
Posted by: e at October 18, 2004 12:56 PMHey goodmorning, I need a longboard, if your giving things away...
Posted by: mexi at October 18, 2004 01:03 PMgoodmorning.. I could swing over this evening?
you around?
I also need to drop redworm's bass off!!
Posted by: e at October 18, 2004 01:14 PMmexi, that's a cool ridgeline and valley to live in. waves are out thier too.
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at October 18, 2004 01:19 PMdamn bbr that trailer looks freaky..
nice shots mexi!
Posted by: bagel at October 18, 2004 01:36 PM
Posted by: bouncy at October 18, 2004 01:43 PME.-
Posted by: goodmorning at October 18, 2004 01:44 PMYep on this evening's pick up.
Mexi-
Nope on the longboard give away.
Sorry no extras.
T O.H. double D. my email address is wildstar2199 at hotmail dot com. thanks for the info.
Posted by: lerm at October 18, 2004 01:56 PM3 to 5,
Posted by: mexi at October 18, 2004 02:10 PMYeah perty excited about it, it's only a couple minutes to the beach and there is an acre of land. The daily drive won't be so bad either, I'll miss OB though.
bagel-
you should definitely check it out, i think you'd like it. i don't think it's out on DVD yet, but I know they have VHS copies at Le Video in the Inner Sunset.
i missed the neighborhood debate the other day, but here's a vote for the western addition/panhandle area. if you don't mind car break-ins, it's the best neighborhood IMHO. i also dig the outer richmond and potrero hill.
Posted by: bbr at October 18, 2004 02:23 PMmexi,
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at October 18, 2004 02:34 PMit's sweet out there. while some surf opportunities at the new home fade, new ones come into focus. i love that stretch of coast.
Mexi, that is aggressive on a house in that area. Pretty sweet!
Posted by: Kaiser at October 18, 2004 02:38 PMRight on, bbr. Three cheers for the Panhandle! Best of both worlds.
Posted by: mwsf at October 18, 2004 03:01 PM
Posted by: sweet at October 18, 2004 03:21 PM
Posted by: at October 18, 2004 03:25 PM
Posted by: at October 18, 2004 03:36 PMquestion: where do you think the landlord is more prevalent: Bo or donteatus?
Posted by: vons at October 18, 2004 03:42 PMkaiser...ditto what bagel said re: namotu. as with any trip...weather and swell are a crapshoot...but who knows you might get lucky. And if you go with a good crew you will have a good time no matter what. if you haven't already, check out the website
www.namotuislandresort.com
and feel free to email me if you want more details. jdznorcal@sbcglobal.net
Posted by: jdz at October 18, 2004 03:48 PMhere's kaiser in a few weeks
Posted by: e at October 18, 2004 04:01 PMdamn e, you don't miss a DP for nothing.
never made it up to my old hometown of SF. damn GF sickness. some fun southy lines down in these parts though.
bagel, i have a vhs copy of Battle Royal i could mail out to you. pretty good, but we found it even to be better when you put your favorite soundtrackish cd (Floyd, any mostly instrumental cd) on and put the movie on mute (it's subtitled anyway) cooool and stonnny.
Posted by: Hb at October 18, 2004 04:10 PMWhat is up with the "Kelly's Cove Local Boys" stickers?
Posted by: Irwin at October 18, 2004 04:19 PMKaiser, don't know if you into saving money but the other side of the island is much cheaper, and some of the breaks are empty, especially this time of year.
the other side
Posted by: mexi at October 18, 2004 04:22 PMOB was kinda glassy last wednesday
Posted by: as at October 18, 2004 04:30 PMholy shit! take me to the other side baby!
Posted by: e at October 18, 2004 04:30 PMWhile we're on about the South Pacific, I'm heading home in a month or so and including the Cooks (Rarotonga) for two weeks. Intention is to kayak, fish and drink but I've heard there's a few spots worth checking at the lagoon entrances. Anyone know of good area, especially around Muri Beach? And we've got a week at Aitutaki too, I'm not aware of any surf spots there but maybe someone knows better?
Posted by: NZ Swell at October 18, 2004 04:32 PMnice photo as! shit!
nz swell - you're psyched man! have a good trip. Raratonga looks sick.
Posted by: e at October 18, 2004 04:38 PMfrigates=fun!
Posted by: jdz at October 18, 2004 04:41 PMCheers E, yep we're staying right near that pass in the reef at the bottom right. I'm guessing it'll have a decent wave if tide/swell angle/wind all line up.
Posted by: NZ Swell at October 18, 2004 04:51 PMBest thing about the Cooks, it's basically part of NZ. Full of Kiwis, uses NZ dollar and I can get a steak and cheese pie. And good beer.
I was in Maui a couple of years ago and was wandering around blown away that it was part of the US, no different to living in CA or anywhere. Amazing more folk don't live there, what a paradise.
Not to be a spammer or a band pimp, but this Wednesday night Dick Dale is gonna be at Slim's. I saw him last time he was up here and it was a totally great show.
Posted by: Andrew on 57th at October 18, 2004 04:54 PMDick Dale performs a nice show! I saw him weekend-b4-last at the Lobster Festival in SC (we were one of the opening bands on Saturday's lineup). What a great guitarist he is! It's just a three piece band, but good music, some fast songs, and really loud. I was pleasantly surprised!
Posted by: as at October 18, 2004 05:06 PMohh last week, our 3 days of indian summer..if i dont get another taste of that before winter starts i might cry..
hb! much obliged but no need for the hassle, i am definately gonna try to get my hands on a copy of that up here..i love that type of thing where kids are forced to be grown ups or whatever, like lord of the flies type shit, exploding collars too, dope. thanx for the tip bbr. that screen shot is freaking me out..
Posted by: bagel at October 18, 2004 05:23 PMwater...neeed water.....
Posted by: j at October 18, 2004 05:52 PMworld title #3 coming up...no one can beat me
Posted by: andy at October 18, 2004 06:08 PMyeah andy, but you'll still be an:
Posted by: at October 18, 2004 07:27 PM:]
Main Entry: Indian summer
Posted by: Barook at October 18, 2004 08:49 PMFunction: noun
1 : a period of warm or mild weather in late autumn or early winter
2 : a happy or flourishing period occurring toward the end of something
who makes an "Indian Summer Ale"?
Posted by: as at October 18, 2004 09:32 PMindian summer ale
Posted by: at October 18, 2004 11:03 PMpublic service announcement: they have all the ending heats of the mundaka contest on the bilibong website. i think slater got kind of robbed.
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