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waves!!!

I’m writing this on Wednesday night. Listening to Indian music from the Concert for George Harrison. Surfing has been on my mind all day. I’ve been thinking about this morning’s session and then juxtaposing it against this afternoon’s. This morning (wed.) I was all crabby and frustrated with the “crowd.” In reality 10 or 15 people traded waves and enjoyed the bounty gifted to us by the mighty Pacific. Picturesque ovals spun and cracked as riders launched themselves into their spiritual bowels. Those of us out there were healthy and lucky enough to be surfing, at that time and moment, experiencing sick waves at our home spot. My apologies to 3to5 and anyone else who thought my “whinging” about the unusually populated lineup reeked of jaded, selfish entitlement. 3to5 is the man, always espousing positive vibes and always super psyched on surfing.
Another thing that dawned on me after this afternoon’s session. IT’S GOING OFF OUT THERE!!!! Strait up. Some of the best waves we’ve seen in years!? Crisp, offshore-groomed, glassy, head-high, barreling waves pumped into the beach all day long. Not only that, but there were heaps of waves on offer. This afternoon saw this morning’s crowd quadrupled, easy. But vibes remained chill because everyone that sacked-up and tossed themselves over a ledge or two scored waves. There were tons of waves coming in. Waves for everybody. Rapid fire glassy peeler after gulping glassy pit. The waves this afternoon were some of the best I’ve ever seen at Ocean Beach. One older guy on a yellow longboard stroked into a thickening, oily-glass, overhead+, A-framing, stacking paradigm of beachbreak perfection. Seriously. 20 or 30 surfers turned and watched as he paddled with authority deep into the steepening cleft. Seconds later he’s dropping in, turning hard off the bottom and then standing in the pocket as a massive, barreling slab encapsulates him into it’s deep recesses. I had a perfect view of this guy getting absolutely SHACKED! Deeply shacked. He stayed packed within for a healthy second or two.. then almost squeezes out of the closing section before getting knocked off his board. Easily one of the most enchanting, mesmerizing, beautiful waves I’ve seen ridden in years. Sitting out in the lineup you could look one way or another up and down the beach and witness people stuffing themselves into funneling, unbelievable, “almond” barrels. Lefts and rights. All over the place. Everyone happy. People dropping into serious, meaty chunk-o-waves. I personally saw a few curtains fly overhead but wasn’t able to maneuver any extended spats of green-room consciousness. Soul-gratifying waves come through today. Dropping down into smooth, powerful, critical, dreamy walls feels totally amazing. Waves that got the butterflies fluttering as you saw them mount on the horizon, knowing that people were watching your takeoff, knowing that barrels were eminent and the sandbars shallow. For every barrel handed out, 50 beatings got dished out and humbled the blessed-out surfers. I just want to express my sincere gratitude for being able to surf those waves. For all it’s faults, our society allows a select few of us to develop the knowledge and ability to ride the ocean’s waves. The purpose of surfing is pure enjoyment. The idea of the pursuit is to have fun. We’re given the time and resources to make it happen. There is no evolutionary or economic or practical underpinning to the activity. We don’t do it to help provide sustenance, shelter or sex. Well… maybe some people derive those things from it. But… Some manifestation of the universe dictates that for certain mammalian species (dolphins, pinnipeds, whales and humans), riding waves is a good time. It’s funny that such a practically meaningless endeavor affords each of us such profound meaning. Surfing is one of those imponderable human activities. It’s a celebration of existence. The human spirit shines strongly through the art of surfing. I felt a sense of brotherhood in the lineup this afternoon. We were all just basking in the greatness of a thing we love.
Also in regard to crowds. On one hand a pack of 8 guys on a peak could create a competitive and tense vibration. But.. given the same peak with 8 guys who are all your friends.. If has the makings of an epic session with everyone pushing and encouraging each other. Same situation and number of surfers, totally different mindset and enjoyment level. Shift in perspective. Also, when there is a sea of people like this afternoon. It helps to have a smattering of friends and allies in the mix. When you’re in a mini-pod of three of your friends in one area, you kind-of control the scene and can work for each-other’s benefit. The more people you know the better. The more people you treat with kindness and respect out there, the more people who are gonna want to treat you the same. Give a wave one time and who knows when that niceness will circle back around for you. When the golden gate bridge used to be $3, I’d often pull up to the ticket gate to be told that the car in front of me paid my way. “No shit!!” I’d say.. then I’d fork over $3 for the next guy, supposedly that niceness often got spread down the line at the golden gate. Same shit can happen in the lineup. Everyone hooking each other and everyone even more stoked than ever.

Anyway.. thanks for reading!!!

As kdalle says, keep surfing no matter what.

oh yeah.. there were waves this morning too!! a little morning sickness.. but still nugs on hand. Watched Christian tear the place up and even slank back into a nice backside cavern, right in front of Lerm and i. Barrelled! Cool to share a chill, foggy, low-key session with Tomstah, Lerm and Christian!! Can't be beat.

anyway.. enjoy it!!! like it's your last session!

photos from pkphotos.com


e, where you out just north of lawton? think i was out there with you guys.

Posted by: dsx at October 14, 2004 10:01 AM

word...well said

Posted by: z at October 14, 2004 10:05 AM

man, sounds like i missed some great waves yesterday afternoon. well, sometimes ya just can't leave work early. e and crew, sounds like it was a magical session. especially with that sunset!

this morning session was fun. amazing how the fog will control a crowd. i have to apologies to christian again for a kooky blunder on my part. sorry man. i thought i could make it around you. a good surfer could have.

Posted by: lerm at October 14, 2004 10:26 AM

oh. and tom, nice to meet you.

Posted by: lerm at October 14, 2004 10:27 AM

bummed i missed last night that sunset was sureal, sounds insane. lunchtime was great yesterday too. long lunch or early leave?

Posted by: bagel at October 14, 2004 10:35 AM

i'm in nyc, far away, and it's drizzling. great lead today, ethan, feels like i never left the west coast. had the luxury of an open afternoon yesterday and had a great 3hr session followed by another hour+ of shooting photos at dusk. finally met bruce too -- he should have some purdy shots of that pink sunset. my rfs handled the last two days conditions very nicely. the retro style thickness is not as much of an impediment to duckdiving as i feared, and the extra paddle power was great counter to the current. also made a few steep drops & suspect that the added buoyancy in the rails helped. still barely exploiting the turning capacity - continue to be frustrated with my tendency to wind up with my feet too forward - but it has cranked whenever i've managed to line up the variables.

i'm gone for another week, hope this pattern holds for a long time...

Posted by: loon at October 14, 2004 10:36 AM

i woke from my cot while it was dark and journeyed through the perilous asphalt jungle to a place south on the beach. i slinked into the water and quickly paddled out. while hunkering down between waves, i heard them coming. the grunts and the splashes of the LONGBOARDERS in the MIST. a curious group of male and female species. all clawing frantically away at the same peak. i scribbled some notes and then silently paddled away as they drifted north into the mist.

Posted by: caveman at October 14, 2004 10:41 AM

now that's funny shit, caveman! classic. hmmm...other than this brief comment, i have nothing to add to the blog at present. peace.

Posted by: ck at October 14, 2004 10:56 AM

this morning i had my fifth surf since monday. other than surf trips, i haven't done this in years. i am overflowing with stoke. i'd like to thank everyone on this board for lighting my surf flame and getting me back out there consistently. and i'll also say that this board was indirectly responsible for my recent car purchase. i couldn't have had five sessions without it. it even allowed me to sneak out of work yesterday afternoon and get some of the best waves i've seen at ob.
thanks all.

Posted by: rza at October 14, 2004 10:59 AM

i was one of those weenies deterred by the fog today... drove to the beach, couldn't see the waves, slept 15 minutes in my truck, drove home. after work, it's on like donkey kong.

countdown to my last weekend of freedom in the city of sin:
1 day 6 hours 14 minutes

Posted by: bbr at October 14, 2004 11:00 AM

Yeah. Yesterday. I left work at two-thirty to sample the smokey glass. Paddled out to run right into, first, a seal taking off on the wave that I was ducking through and then into the paragon of surf controversy M. Renneker (with a big grin on his face). It was beautiful out. There were so many nice waves that just got better as the tide drained I hardly new what to do with myself. The waves were a perfect, playful, no bad consequence size. The sunset was reminiscent of those I used to watch through the "vog" back home with a blood red disc slipping through a haze that so lessened the differentation between sky and sea as to border on the surreal. I officially met someone whose face has been familiar for some time to find out that we had many comonalities and we just sat outside for a while trading set waves.

Mounting the steps to the road my name was called out by Blakestah who held the loaner RFS under arm for me. It was our first meeting and I was suprised that he was much burlier than I expected- I'd think twice about hassling his forecasting, he doesn't seem mean but I am sure that if he gives his 100% g'tee about busting your head I'd listen.
I can't wait to try the board today.

My only complaint about the day comes today as I awoke with my funky rotator cuff extremely stiff. I am convinced that if I had the discipline and time to really concentrate on flexibility and conditioning my surfing would return to the skill level I possessed in my teens/ early twenties. So that is my goal- concentration on conditioning and injuries. I was sobered up while skating the art bowl for the last time when I realized how much closer to 40 than 20 I've gotten to be- time to start being realistic about laying the foudation for surfing into my 70's....

See you at the beach!

Posted by: goodmorning at October 14, 2004 11:01 AM

I had a good chance yesterday arvo on the RFS demo board. It is definitely a half-step behind the latest generation, but it did the trick for me.

Perhaps my biggest thrill of the day came when I watched a friend get wave of the day. This cat had everything going for him, and alcoholism was kickin him around. Anyway, he's less than a year sober now, and started surfing regularly again. If he stays dry, he will have everything going for him. It feels good inside to watch someone who was getting ripped up by addiction get his act together. Not that this dude was homeless or anything, but the turnaround is cool to see. Especially when delivered on a steep long barreling left.

Met goodmorning too, although not while surfing...

Surf now, we got about 3 more days of nirvana coming.

Posted by: blakestah at October 14, 2004 11:04 AM

look! see how they catch waves before they even break, fascinating..

Posted by: jane at October 14, 2004 11:06 AM

I surfed my ars off in the afternoon, and then spent the better part of the sunset trying get a pic of the sun with Nick busting an air in front of it. Everybody was pulling in, but the back lighting wasn't good for barrel rides, only top turns and airs. I'll be posting a page or two this weekend, some sick ass mutha fucken Shiite.

Blond Guy on the red white and blue Pearson longboard, don't surf here, you are dangerous, go to Pacifica it is much more suited to your abilites! Oh and when you snake someone say sorry, don't yell at them.

I

Posted by: mexi at October 14, 2004 11:09 AM

good god this is effed up...
http://members.shaw.ca/fivelitermustang/holdinitdown.wmv

Posted by: bbr at October 14, 2004 11:09 AM

Jesus! Now that's localism!

Posted by: at October 14, 2004 11:15 AM

Missed the wonderful waves yesterday, drat it, though Mon & Tues were so good it's hard to be too upset. Midmorning today in the pea soup was MUCH smaller than M&T---dry-hair paddle, mushy waves. There were a sweet-looking set or two, but far between, and by the time they loomed out of the mist I never managed to get out to them. Plenty o' fun anyway splashing around and grabbing bunches of li'l rides.

Posted by: klooless at October 14, 2004 11:18 AM

i guess the swell came up in europre.. Jocular Jake is probably scoring as we speak.

Posted by: e at October 14, 2004 11:24 AM

I've missed a lot of the recent surf due to work/school/family obligations. I did get out last Friday, the first significant waves I've ridden in a long time. I hope this lasts until ... no I'm not gonna say it, I don't want to jinx it.
blakestah - is this "newbie" to recovery of whom you speak someone who is also kickin' up dust in the world of motor-cycle racing? I heard about this miracle from Max - very cool stuff!

Posted by: Jimmie at October 14, 2004 11:29 AM

You people are killing me. Week after after I move from the beach. Maybe if I move to Colorado, it'll be the best season ever.

If anyone from Oakland needs a ride tomorrow AM, we're crossing the bridge no later than 6:15 so as to not have to deal with traffic. I also plan on leaving the water at 8 after a mere hour in the drink, and I park near Pac Bell to save 12 bucks. It aint much time, but it's better than reading about it on the board. E-mail me @ andrewon44th at excite

Posted by: Andrew on 57th at October 14, 2004 11:32 AM

Dang, that holdinitdown.wmv video is nuts, bbr. Not sure why the person in the car didn't just run the guy over. That place is directly across the street from the Sahara in Vegas.

Posted by: mwsf at October 14, 2004 11:32 AM

Jimmie - one and the same. He took all that energy and stoke and life that was pouring into the bottle, and focussed it on his life, and started surfing again, and motorcycle racing. Like being re-born at 40. Great to see.

Posted by: blakestah at October 14, 2004 11:42 AM

What is the blackart link, I've lost it????

Posted by: mexi at October 14, 2004 11:43 AM

haha... i didn't realize that was vegas. if i see him this weekend i'll say whatsup.

Posted by: bbr at October 14, 2004 11:43 AM

e,
Great post last night!!! You so eloqunetly captured the essence of all of our emotions last night.

When "the man" let up and I finally got out there I paddled right into your crew. I slowly paddled away, not wanting to kook myself on to the pages of your site or be 'that guy' who crowds you. I can sense that you're probably thinking that this site brings people to you, but in some instances it may give you space.

You know how on a browser if you start typing a url, auto-complete will finish it if someone has been there. It's kinda like cyber graffiti or cyber tagging. I was traveling in New Zealand and a couple of Internet Cafe's (Raglan and new Plymouth-Taranki) already had the niceness.org tag. I'll bet there's e-tags across the globe. You could get the ip of your hits and make a map of the countries?

This morning really shows what the word-of-mouth can do (I don't think it was niceness, blakestah or even Wise phone). Soooo many heads, so early, and in conditions that we usually hit with the hard core. I felt like a helicopter was going to cruise the beach announcing on the loudspeaker "You shoulda been here..."

Thanks...

Posted by: copious at October 14, 2004 11:57 AM

e - that was some eloquent shit you just laid down.

keep pimpin'

egp

Posted by: EG Pimp at October 14, 2004 12:03 PM

e, thanks for the props. just tried to post and got this error:

Your comment submission failed for the following reasons:

Your comment could not be submitted due to questionable content: i can't even type the word?

Please correct the error in the form below, then press POST to post your comment

is john ashcroft spying and filtering niceness?!?!

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at October 14, 2004 12:09 PM

fuck fuck fucking shit fuck

Posted by: e test at October 14, 2004 12:17 PM

There you go E. We are sick wit it!

Hey just wanted to pose a question to you geeks out there. Maybe Blakestah directly.
I was riding my fish twinzer/bonser style yesterday and I noticed that it was a little harder to get into waves without the center fin. I know the waves werent that fast or juicy last night, but still I felt a lot of drag when I was on the top of the waves. Does a thruster have more boost on take offs? I know it helps with drive, but I really like doiong the twiny as its real loose and is helping me snap the wave a lot better, not to mention smooth out my bottom turn. Any comments regarding fins and paddleing/take offs etc

Posted by: pez at October 14, 2004 12:19 PM

Yesterday somebody asked me how much wax costs.

Going out in a few minutes despite odd time and not having the literal foggiest idea what it's doing out there. Cabin fever!!! Feel free to join the festivities. If you give the super secret "Distressed Seagull" call I'll be able to find you in the fog. Likewise listen for splashing around and emotive cursing.

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at October 14, 2004 12:19 PM

thanks for the kind words peoples!

if you missed the waves yesterday afternoon.. don't worry.. it wasn't totally epic or anything.

hee hee..

but seriously.. there will be more where that came from.

3to5.. i'll look through the admin stuff to see if i can spot anything.. this site shouldn't be censored at all! that sucks! what were you trying to type (rhymes with?)

Posted by: e at October 14, 2004 12:20 PM

calling all niceness heads. please test with all possible combinations. fire at will.

just kidding!!

Posted by: Jack at October 14, 2004 12:21 PM

Beautiful sunset? What beautiful sunset? For a few picks from the south end last evening, click here.

BTW, zero photoshop color adjustment. . . WYSIWYG and totally organic (non-professional).

Posted by: Bruce at October 14, 2004 12:24 PM

Nice job Bruce, I like the first cutty, I'm excited to see what I got too, but I do it the old fashion way (expensive) film. I was aiming straight at the sun and metered it to that light, with MF at F16. A few rippers busted out into the sun...

Posted by: mexi at October 14, 2004 12:33 PM

yes!

Posted by: e at October 14, 2004 12:37 PM

hey christian

who do I talk to in badging to get key card access to the YOBO office. I'm dying a slow painful surfless death down here in slummyvale Bldg. F

I vampired it yesterday, out of the water by 7:15am so i could make it to work. when the hell do the clocks change again?

Posted by: ryan at October 14, 2004 12:38 PM

pez, dunno about your observations, sounds fishy to me that if you remove a fin it gets harder to catch waves. Usually, less fin means easier catching waves, along with more board, more tail width, flatter rear rocker, and flatter bottom contours.

Harder to catch is more fins, more rear rocker, more concave or more vee, narrower tail, or less buoyant board.

My only reasonably controlled testing compared the same boards as thrusters and as RFS boards (retro-fits). The difference in ability to catch waves was easily noticeable. In those cases the hull is the same, so it is just the fins. I haven't played with the same board with and without a center fin.

Posted by: blakestah at October 14, 2004 12:39 PM

daylight savings ends on halloween

Posted by: paul b at October 14, 2004 12:58 PM

caveman, hilarious! At Lindy, it's so funny when a bump starts to show and you've got like 10 longboarders all paddling straight at you. It's like when you run into someone in the hall and try to go left or right around them. It's a tough judgement call -- do they have the skill to paddle around you or are they going to run into you? Usually I guess the latter and start paddling to avoid them. At OB though, I usually sit tight (assuming I'm not where the peak is heading) since most people there are good enough to take off without falling.

Posted by: Nate at October 14, 2004 12:58 PM

Christian
That video is of the place(s) where we didn't manage hooking up at. Waves were very similar when I was there.

Posted by: traut at October 14, 2004 01:24 PM

e, the word was h o m e g r o w n. which makes it all the more suspicous?!

enter your conspriacy theory here:_______________
_________________________________________________

pez, you lose paddling speed from the increassed side to side movement of the board as you stroke forward through the water. with nothing in the middle to act as your stablizer the side fins become little axis point each time you apply a individual stroke. that's why knee paddling with it's single lunge is soo smooth.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at October 14, 2004 01:34 PM

Marijuana cultivation, terrorist... testing

E, your better man than I, I've had a person ahead of me pay my toll across the bridge, and was equally stoked but never thought to pay the next cars. You da man.

Posted by: mexi at October 14, 2004 01:42 PM

I met I Japaneese guy in the water who recognized me from the Maldives. He is still on vaca... small world

Posted by: mexi at October 14, 2004 01:44 PM

that's weird 3to5..

ganja, puff, bong, stoned, loaded, sizzled... more testing.

Posted by: e at October 14, 2004 01:46 PM

There has been a change in the status of one or more of the beach
monitoring points in:

Crissy Field
Mid-Crissy Field Beach - Posted
East Crissy Field Beach - Open


Follow the link below to see Earth 911's detailed map indicating
current
status:
http://www.earth911.org/WaterQuality/default.asp?beach_id=51&cluster=3

For more information on beach and ocean water quality see Oceana's web
page:
http://www.oceana.org/index.cfm?sectionID=25

Posted by: e at October 14, 2004 01:46 PM

is it gonna happen out there again today?? What's the scoop?

Posted by: e at October 14, 2004 01:47 PM

That's freaky - just confirmed, no h o m e g r o w n here.

Nice observation, 3to5 (on the paddling side to side).

Posted by: blakestah at October 14, 2004 01:47 PM

attack terrorism mohammed

Posted by: at October 14, 2004 01:50 PM

islam grow weeb in closet at bush house hydroponic herb yes I

Posted by: at October 14, 2004 01:51 PM

cocaine heroine weed iraq your mother.. Bush is an ass fuck

Posted by: at October 14, 2004 01:52 PM

bitch fuck shit cock pussy buds

Posted by: at October 14, 2004 01:53 PM

CAMP camp greenhouse watering system solar powered scissors five gallon bucket ....more testing

Posted by: Jack at October 14, 2004 02:00 PM

Ha ha Sharkbait - don't people know chicks rarely pay for wax? Where I go they always just wink and give it to me for free. Don't despair guys - in that GG Bridge spirit of sharing the love, I always share when one of you comes up and asks for wax.

Posted by: eclaire at October 14, 2004 02:02 PM

is this how you put on your wetty every morning?

Posted by: e at October 14, 2004 02:11 PM

I'm one ugly hairy mofo and I don't pay for wax either.

Posted by: mexi at October 14, 2004 02:14 PM

Bush terrorist killing people smoking cocaine beating laura right wing christian fool... Testing

Posted by: mexi at October 14, 2004 02:17 PM

i like the wetsuit fitters union.

Posted by: s at October 14, 2004 02:26 PM

don't worry mexi - I'm old and nowhere near as cute as those girls e posted.

Posted by: eclaire at October 14, 2004 02:28 PM

It's almost a crime to pay for wax for some reason. It's like paying a skate shop for stickers. Who buys stickers?!?!! Just ask every time you buy something from a shop, "throw in some wax?"

Posted by: Nate at October 14, 2004 02:33 PM

sorry if this has already been posted:

http://fakefilm.com/

Trannies! The Movie

Ever been beat down bad by rowdy locals looking to kick some transplant ass?

Ever dropped in on some steroid-amped surf nazi and faced a savage beating back on the beach?

Has your girlfriend gotten jumped by indigenous chicks eager to claw her eyes out just because she was born outside the city limits?

Then this is the movie for you!

Posted by: kookdom at October 14, 2004 02:37 PM

I got my wallet out. Where do I get one of those wetties?

Slates on his way out...

Posted by: dano at October 14, 2004 02:37 PM

maybe it is BushCo at work............. my op was about the fact that i didn't surf last night (gas usage guilt) instead watched that fool bush speak and the cams simultaenously. i got all aggro listening to that idiot and watching/missing surf. so i skated the hill i live on. my neighbor then called me into his garage and gave me a handfull of his h o m e g r o w n.

oh shit! we both have kerry signs in the yard. they know....fark...busted.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at October 14, 2004 02:38 PM

supposedly this is from killer dana??

Posted by: e at October 14, 2004 03:04 PM

if anyone is looking for an apt. at OB, drop me a line. 2 bdrm, 47th/Sutro Hts Ave. incredible views of the beach from Kelly's all the way down south.

Posted by: cc at October 14, 2004 03:07 PM

e, is that an early 60s tow session?
3to5setsof7, that is a great story. I'm going over the my neighbor's right now. They have a Kerry sign too.

Posted by: dano at October 14, 2004 03:08 PM

chris at crossendesigns.com

Posted by: at October 14, 2004 03:08 PM

shit crap bitch fuck stoned high drugs dope crack!

Posted by: bagel at October 14, 2004 03:09 PM

how much cc?

Posted by: at October 14, 2004 03:10 PM

Trannies...what a joke. I was laughing when i saw the ad for the movie. I can't wait to see a group of SC transplants show up at OB so I can yell at them and tell them to go back home...and never come back. What goes around comes around.

Posted by: OB rat at October 14, 2004 03:11 PM

3to5setsof7 -- No censorship here, but we do use software to keep spammers from filling up the comments with gambling website links and other crap. Check out some of the posts from last year to see an example of the garbage that build up if you don't use this software. Surprising that it filtered 'h o m e g r o w n' though. Must be something funky in the regex.

This is the page that lists the stuff that's blocked:

http://www.jayallen.org/comment_spam/blacklist.txt

Cheers!

-- Matt

Posted by: mwsf at October 14, 2004 03:12 PM

you guys are killing me. when ashcroft figures out the "yes i" filter i am moving out of the country

Posted by: paul b at October 14, 2004 03:17 PM

Hedge Hog!!

kind-of significant that Beschen took Slater out of what might be his last title race.

Is this the end of Slater as world title contender?

Posted by: hog fan at October 14, 2004 03:20 PM

apt: $1400

Posted by: at October 14, 2004 03:33 PM

Killer Dana was a right point, that looks more like Old Man's.

Posted by: mexi at October 14, 2004 03:34 PM

homegr omegro

Posted by: at October 14, 2004 03:56 PM

seems to be this pattern: home\.ro\b

Posted by: at October 14, 2004 03:57 PM

just received an email from Kaiser in NYC. He sounds bummed.. Very bummed. D'oh!!

Posted by: e at October 14, 2004 04:06 PM

Thanks for the regex hint, anonymous!

homegrown
homegrown
homegrown
homegrown
homegrown
homegrown
homegrown

fuck fuck fuck
mutha mutha fuck
mutha mutha fuck fuck
mutha fuck mutha fuck

Posted by: mwsf at October 14, 2004 04:17 PM

i'm still watching........

Posted by: John Ashcroft at October 14, 2004 04:21 PM

hows the fog of wind doing out there?

Posted by: bagel at October 14, 2004 04:23 PM

Christian,
word on the street is your roomie is teaching yoga? Is this true and where?

Namaste

Fucking P T conferences, I'm glad nobody's talking about what the surfs doing.

Posted by: yogi mexi at October 14, 2004 04:28 PM

winds look to be onshore at the beach. 12mph out of the WSW at the golden gate. it's probably shitty out there.

Posted by: e at October 14, 2004 04:35 PM

What the hell is Kaiser doing in NYC??? Get back here.

Mexi -- Yoga rocks. Everyday.

Posted by: like so new age Dano at October 14, 2004 04:38 PM

dano.. has SC been feelin' this whole swell?

Posted by: e at October 14, 2004 04:51 PM

Smaller, glassy, foggy and cold @ Sloat. At least that's how it was about 2 hours ago. Still some fun to be had, but if you've been in the last few days, then don't get your expectations up too much...
Fingers crossed for a recharge with some new stuff arriving tomorrow...

Posted by: ankors at October 14, 2004 05:54 PM

You guys are killin me... I sit here checking emails watching the clock tick until my flight leaves tomorrow.

As I told E, you got glassy, stoke-filled waves. I got Quiksilver in Times Square and pizza.

But, I am glad you guys are all surfed out, more room for me....And since you are all being niceness and all, how about a few choice waves my way eh?

Posted by: Kaiser at October 14, 2004 06:09 PM

nice post e-
Trannies... doesn't that pertain to EVERYONE

Posted by: kus at October 14, 2004 06:37 PM

I knew Kaiser was asking about places to travel in the fall, but.. Deciding on NY?! Pfft. ;)

Remember this in good (and bad) waves to come, ESPECIALLY with crowds. Stay stoked, it will come back to you..

"To some extent we can control our own response to our actions, but we cannot control the way others respond to them. Their response may turn out to be quite different from what we expect or desire. A good deed of ours might be met with ingratitude, a kind word may find a cold or even hostile reception. But though these good deeds and kind words will then be lost to the recipient, to his own disadvantage, they will not be lost to the doer. The good thoughts that inspired them will enoble his mind, even more so if he responds to the negative reception with forgiveness and forbearance rather than anger and resentment."

Posted by: Ian at October 14, 2004 07:25 PM

Oh yeah, a simple head nod, or hello can make the lineup a million times better. Try it once and a while. And if someone says hello to you, please don't be an asshole and look away. That really irritates me.

Posted by: Ian at October 14, 2004 07:27 PM

It's really true. Yesterday afternoon, like a few others, I was trying my best to avoid drifting south around mid-Beach when this guy paddles out, just a constant beaming smile on his face. He sits up on his board next to me and says he drifted 5 blocks before making it out the back. We chatted about how it's been the last several days, not believing how beautiful and glassy yet challenging the waves were. I resumed my conveyor paddle north towards the blue house feeling good that not everyone out there was so hung up on looking unimpressed and serious. Thanks, blond-haired guy on the 7-0.

Posted by: cadaver at October 14, 2004 08:32 PM

good words e...and everyone else for that matter...sounds like yesterday afternoon was one of those magical times when it all comes together. here's to more of that niceness.

Posted by: jdz at October 14, 2004 08:34 PM

I am not at my post because I am surfing

Posted by: TK426 at October 14, 2004 08:59 PM

now that's funny - tk426

Posted by: at October 14, 2004 09:07 PM


man, that video makes me miss salvador. i knew jimmy, bob, all those guys. even dated the owner of punta mango's gal while they were temporarily split. classic times. can't believe that dude did the cable de la muerta. sketchified.

i wish pray hope salivate, am sacrificing a goat for waves on the east coast this weekend. you guys really keep the stoke alive for this new england transplant, though after reading this week's posts, i'm about ready to drop out of my master's program and move back out west.

gvibe

Posted by: gvibe at October 14, 2004 10:24 PM

p.s.- maybe i'll ask this tomorrow, but anyone know where would be a good intl. destination for january. we were thinking the DR or Peru, but suspect Peru won't be getting very many waves.

Posted by: gvibe at October 14, 2004 10:26 PM

gvibe,

How about the Canary Islands, Fiji, or Samoa?

Posted by: steve-o at October 14, 2004 11:00 PM

i second the Canaries gvibe. lot's of surf.....

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at October 15, 2004 07:31 AM

is it warm at the canaries?

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