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Miniscule but beautiful

Not sure what happened to the swell? Last night thick pockets of south swell juice pulsed into our beloved OB. Fast, high-performance, rampy lefts could be seem peeling up and down the beach. The surface was slightly ruffled but nothing too detrimental. As the sun set and the last of the daylight faded, surfers looked to each other with a knowing grin that said, “yeah, it was good this afternoon, but tomorrow morning should be killer!” As predicted, the wind calmed to an absolute stillness this morning and the weather beamed cool and immaculate. The sea-surface appeared smooth and inviting.. But.. the south swell!?! Where art thou oh south swell of yore? Maybe?? one or two pulses of extremely residual south swell energy made it’s presence known… maybe. Otherwise the morning offered up just a meager helping of faint NW windswell. Glassy, potentially perfect longboard waves on the inside peeled and beckoned from shore. Unfortunately most of those glorious-looking waves ended up being too mushy or weak to allow for proper shortboard revelry. Lerm locked into one of the only tasty morsels on offer, lurching over the ledge of a succulent, double-up left and working his way down the line on the old-school Green Lantern board. That wave was purdy! Yesterday and today I returned to surfing on ye ol’ Brown Turd (6’6” Coffey thruster) and wow, let’s just say it felt extremely comfortable to be back on the old stick. Compared to the RFS demo the Brown Turd felt so much more exacting in its responsiveness. My rides felt soo soo much more tight and fluid, smooth and energetic. I felt like I could harness my speed off the drop and torque off the bottom and occasionally off the top… My balance, positioning and flow felt really natural and easy, compared to the RFS demo board where I felt constantly off-balance and lacking in confidence. I felt like pumping on the thruster resulted in a bum-rush of speed down the line while on the RFS it resulted in bogging and even falling behind the section. I’ll probably give the RFS demo board one more try.. but.. shit.. if nothing else this little trial has shown me how grateful I am for Simon Anderson’s invention, the three finned surfboard!! I’d like to try a non-RFS single-fin shortboard to see how much of the feel is due to the rotating fin and how much due to the single-fin in general. I commend Blakestah for his inventiveness and his willingness to go out on a limb and experiment with a new idea.. but unfortunately (for me!) i just haven't been able to find my groove on it. Could be the waves, could be the board, could be the fin, could be the surfer.. in fact most definitely it is the surfer.. who's a bit of a kook. but.. regardless.. i couldn't lock it in and in my opinion the three-finned shortboard rides world's better.

malibu yesterday
south swell

HB with some swell
south swell

Miami Escondito
hurricane juice

fugg, i am not a morning person. got up 5:55, stepped outside to stretch in the fresh air 'hmm...weather looks nice, gonna have to get on it'. back inside, made the mistake of touching my bed, which than grabbed me, flung me under it's covers and had it's way with me, not relinquishing until 8. bonofasitch!!

glassy longboard waves would have been A-OK by me. *sigh*

Posted by: lazy j at September 22, 2004 10:13 AM

swells come, and then they go...

Posted by: cronk at September 22, 2004 10:13 AM

IT WAS CONSENSUAL!!! IT WAS CONSENSUAL!!!

Posted by: j's bed at September 22, 2004 10:15 AM

i love surfing.

so cal/la is being truly blessed right now, i hope hb ditched work..

srhose onxrda this morning:

Posted by: bagel at September 22, 2004 10:34 AM

that picture of Malibu makes me want to cry. I vaguely remember being a grom out there on days like that...sweetness. Of course, that was before I was old enough to drive, got completely jaded by the aggro crowds at that place, and headed to points north. Haven't been back.

Cam looks fun at the beach right now.

Have to got to the dentist...haven't been in 2 years. Should be about as fun as a poke in the eye with a sharp stick...but then TO THE BEACH!

adios muchachos!

Posted by: jdz at September 22, 2004 10:35 AM

bagel...your pics make me want to cry more. wawawa....

Posted by: jdz at September 22, 2004 10:36 AM

i allready went through 2 boxes of tissues jdz..

Posted by: bagel at September 22, 2004 10:41 AM

Wow Oxnard looks good. Are there any jobs down there? Howz the housing prices?

I biked through there on my SF-LA bike tour and kind of liked the town. I always thought it was trailer trash locals, but in reality it is total OC 90210 style.

Posted by: biff at September 22, 2004 10:42 AM

Hit it with the Flying Brick this morning, which is the board I should have used yesterday. Waist high teeny stuff...a bit fickle but that heavy board cruises well. Only thing is, if I longboard for more than 2 sessions in a row the next shortboard session can be mighty silly. Happen to anyone else? Or am I just slow!

Happy slurfing...and slurfing it is, for sure...

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at September 22, 2004 10:46 AM

biff.. why do you have to spill the beans? bagel did a nice job with the subterfuge and you had to go shouting to the high heavens with it.. e, kindly delete biff's transgression.

Posted by: ss local at September 22, 2004 10:46 AM

Yeah, the Malibu photo is beautiful. Socal has much better (and more) point breaks than the few we have up here. We have long stretches of beachbreak and a few reefs though and less crowding overall (except SC).

I've always wanted to surf Great Beach when there's a bit of NW swell, no winds, and OB is getting too crowded. Any stories from there? It feels so wild out there, like Montara's big brother.

Posted by: Nate at September 22, 2004 10:47 AM

that dude is barreled in pic 2.

the girlfriend on beach doesn't care either. too busy complaining to her friend about how long her guy stayed out when she was hungry and wanted him to take her to breakfast.

he on the other hand want's to go out for beers with his three bro's to talk about his shacks.

the picture proves they all saw him get shacked......so they can't play the old "oh I didn't see that one" game

Posted by: tomstah at September 22, 2004 10:48 AM

nardcore isn't too expensive if you don't mind living in the barrio, shopping at outlets, and commuting to LA for work. i might be able to do it if i had a good job, it's better than living in LA.

my buddy took this yeserday at the very north end of pismo:

Posted by: bbr at September 22, 2004 10:59 AM

thanks for posting those photos bagel.. they look ridankulously fun!! farrrkk!!! barrells!!!! mellow beach-break barrells!!!

Posted by: e at September 22, 2004 10:59 AM

Mellow beach break barrels?? Such a thing exists in nature?! Aren't pics of peeling point break gentle waves all photoshop voodoo? Holy cow.

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at September 22, 2004 11:03 AM

norcal point break

Posted by: j at September 22, 2004 11:08 AM

jeezus when are we getting those offshores?!

feel free to paruse the rest..he makes it out too tomstah..

http://adscience.com/shores/

Posted by: bagel at September 22, 2004 11:13 AM

THIS JUST IN- Britney faked her marraige.
Ha Ha, they fooled us all, and Entertainment Tonight.
check drudgereport-dot-com.
reality = WHOOOO CARES??? -she is just starting to "Delta Burke" = losing the race against flabby chin and thicker legs. also, her lack of talent is starting to catch up with her. can you say "hammer time"? how long until she poses in playboy to pay the rent???

surfed the Pillbox this morning with about 30 other guys, and some gals. i guess yesterday was 'the call'. today much smaller and the high tide was killing it.

have a goodie. hope you guys get some surf.

REMEMBER, it isnt the school system or the teachers that are the problem, it is the BAD PARENTING!! (and not enough BAD RELIGION)

**Goyo,,,,, OUT!**

Posted by: Goyo at September 22, 2004 11:18 AM

NEAT!

http://sfports.wr.usgs.gov/wind/streaklines.shtml

Posted by: cronk at September 22, 2004 11:27 AM

I don't think Oxnard is a secret spot or anything. I've only rode by bike through there at 25 mph, don't read surf mags, but know it is a decent beach break. I'm just attracted to the name of the city. I'd love to have Oxnard on my return addresses.

Posted by: biff at September 22, 2004 11:35 AM

ian, hit me up at nitsuj at gmail dot com

Posted by: j at September 22, 2004 11:39 AM

.....bagel did a nice job with the subterfuge.....

he did? pretty simple and easy to figure out... not like that is a total secret... calm yerself ss local ;)

Posted by: cronk at September 22, 2004 11:41 AM

it's cool biff.. i just got all hot and bothered because the strand has been pretty crowded lately. The surf is usually really bad here. flat and blown-out, huge crowds, no barrels, tons of rippers, girls on the beach with bikinis. But not so many fake boobs. so, if you like fake boobies stay away. Lots of rough-neck military brats and the like in this "working class" so-cal beach town. Vandenburg might have some good surf, but you didn't hear it from me. ok. shit. now I'm rambling on the internet. E, please delete my own post.

Posted by: ss local at September 22, 2004 11:47 AM

STOP NAMING THE NAMED NAMES!!!!!!!!!

Posted by: cronk at September 22, 2004 12:03 PM

christian...welcome back to the niceness! when i read e's post yesterday i was bummed to learn that i'd missed sharing the water with ya by a mere few blocks. it's been too long. can't wait to hear about your travels. peace.

Posted by: at September 22, 2004 12:15 PM

anybody else just see that left on the surfpulse cam? lucky dude on that small glassy one.

Posted by: j at September 22, 2004 12:21 PM

hmmm...christian, that 12:15 posting was me. for some reason the site didn't save and auto post my name like usual. welcome back, amigo.

Posted by: ck at September 22, 2004 12:24 PM

Posted by: Kaiser at September 22, 2004 12:33 PM

It is SOOOO GLASSY right now!

Posted by: Kaiser at September 22, 2004 12:37 PM

Hey fellas are those pictures of Silver Strand down in Oxnard??

Posted by: One eyed jack at September 22, 2004 12:40 PM

Just back. It's niiiiice. Clean, peaky, up to maybe shoulder high, even some microtubules. My shortboard is awaiting its gloss coat so I was on the funboard---probably the right call for me, but most folks were on shortboards and getting good action: lip-smacking, airs, etc. Location, location, and, uh, location.

Posted by: Klooless at September 22, 2004 12:43 PM

its not silver strand..

not the right day to let my girl use the car..

Posted by: bagel at September 22, 2004 12:47 PM

Wow, I just got some fun waves. Anyone else out where I was? :)

Posted by: Ian at September 22, 2004 01:08 PM

maybe silver strand locals think they own shores too, cuz their break don't happen on souths, only norths. So dont say strand, hueneme, hollywood, shores, etc. You'll be golden then jalama

Posted by: at September 22, 2004 01:08 PM

that java wind thing is cool, wanna see it really get moving on a super windy day

Posted by: bbr at September 22, 2004 01:13 PM

bagel: the one car thing sucks I know. I'm feeling a cold coming on... need to go home sick. achoo.

Posted by: Nate at September 22, 2004 01:19 PM

I agree with you E, THANKS Simon Anderson for the thruster. If nothing elese it woke up the surfing world to new approaches in design and riding.

Blakestah, you said in a late post yesterday that the rfs requires less rail but more front foot. hmmmm, if I'm putting more weight on the front foot don't I have more rail in the water setting an edge?

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at September 22, 2004 01:30 PM

For those of you with a TV and the ability to recieve OLN:

“FEARLESS” TO PREMIER ON OUTDOOR LIFE NETWORK FEATURING KELLY SLATER TONIGHT (22nd of September) FROM 7-8PM.

Documentary type thing on Kelly, sounds interesting. More info on the quik site.

Posted by: kookdom at September 22, 2004 01:39 PM

yeah the java wind streaklines are crazy lookin' on a windy ass spring or summer day...

Posted by: cronk at September 22, 2004 01:44 PM

Hey MEXI - DAK here. Thanks for your input on photography equipment, traveling and security yesterday. Very helpful with some good ideas. Adios!

Posted by: DAK at September 22, 2004 01:52 PM

oi christian! tudo bem?

Posted by: caveman at September 22, 2004 02:06 PM

Joel in Spain.

Posted by: dano at September 22, 2004 02:25 PM

Yeah this arrow animation is sweet, except uh, can someone reverse the arrows? They seem to have switched direction on us without notice, uncool.

Posted by: kookdom at September 22, 2004 02:25 PM

Get me the fuck out of this OFFICE and into the water....

Posted by: Kaiser at September 22, 2004 02:26 PM

If there were surf in Pittsburg, we would stylin with offshores right now.

That java thing is nice. Who found that?

Posted by: Kaiser at September 22, 2004 02:30 PM

I'm busy reading a report on bank protection on a canal where they are having problem from the ship generated waves that are 3-6 ft in height. There are a bunch of photos with it. They're in pdf form so I can't post them, but I'm gonna print them out and drop them off at SF surf shop this weekend. They're pretty hot.

Posted by: Andrew on 44th at September 22, 2004 02:35 PM

Oh, you jumped the gun on that one now didn't you RWC!

Posted by: ROP Czar at September 22, 2004 02:46 PM

gun jumped, kittens killed, glassy and clear skies. hallelujah, or however you spell that word.

Posted by: ROP positive at September 22, 2004 02:54 PM

Posted by: bbr at September 22, 2004 02:54 PM

e, missed your ? the other day. there are some answers here for those interested...


Posted by: g at September 22, 2004 02:58 PM

oh, you want those projections, yeah i've got this here, is this what you were looking for?

Posted by: j at September 22, 2004 03:05 PM

i'm projecting that a mass of 235 lbs packed in to 5 feet 11 inches will be on top of that 108 lbs packed in to 5 feet 4 inches.

and it's gonna happen before 4.

Posted by: tomstah at September 22, 2004 03:09 PM

hey E, what's with naming the spot yesterday? the big spot in indo.
is naming spots now kosher on this blog?

Posted by: flip Kerry flop at September 22, 2004 03:09 PM

You can name spots if they are like 3000 miles away or so.

Otherwise, get off the naming names topic for the ONE HUNDREDTH TIME!

Posted by: Kaiser at September 22, 2004 03:12 PM

are the guns on that maxim girl real or fake?

Posted by: curious at September 22, 2004 03:12 PM

i posted that wind site, Kaiser.

ME ME ME!!!

Posted by: cronk at September 22, 2004 03:14 PM

who cares?

as long as they are aiming at me.

Posted by: tomstah at September 22, 2004 03:15 PM

photoshoped or fake..or both..

Posted by: bagel at September 22, 2004 03:16 PM

curious, would it change your decision one way or the other?

Posted by: hot maxim chick at September 22, 2004 03:16 PM

yeah.. shiot.. maybe i shouldn't have mentioned that name.. but.. that wave is serious business as soon as some swell rolls in and it's already way overcrowded with aussies/kiwis/south africans and hawaiins.. That little area is pretty packed out with surfers... and mosquitos... and dengue... and shallow/gnarly flower-coral reef. But.. i apologize if it's your fave wave and you're going back next summer.

Posted by: e at September 22, 2004 03:19 PM

**URGENT NOTICE**
if your spot is named here:
http://www.surfline.com/travel/surfmaps/us/us.cfmit's not a secret.

Posted by: j at September 22, 2004 03:19 PM

no hot maxim chick

see ya in 41 minutes

Posted by: tomstah at September 22, 2004 03:19 PM

definetly would not sway me if i found out they were fakies. I'd be lickin' dem tatties like popsicle sticks. That women is beautiful. Beatufiful face, curvy body. I'd be psyched, fake or not. Though, i like me some real titties.

Posted by: curious at September 22, 2004 03:22 PM

3to5 - the feel on the rfs is not rail-oriented at all (until you get on steep faces), it actually works better if you keep the board flatter and the fin more perpendicular to the water. I sorta stand on my front foot and pivot around it when I turn on the rfs - the thruster really trains you to make everything happen off your back foot - kind of the opposite. With a little practice you can go back and forth. One of the most niceness things is that by not rail dipping when you pump side-to-side, you generate speed more effectively.

Prolly its gonna be difficult to explain what it feels like to me - I've got over 100 sessions on an RFS, and it has surely changed my surfing, but I can go back and forth from thrusters to RFS easily, and I am much better on either than I was a year ago for some reason. That's another perplexing thing - I'm a much better thruster surfer than I was before I made the RFS, despite riding thrusters a lot less.

The south today lost a little period, and changed in direction a few degrees, and lost 1/4th its sized. Plus, yesterday, you didn't realize it, but you were mostly surfing NW windswell which lost more than half its size. If you wanna surf a 180, you oughta go someplace it breaks.

Posted by: blakestah at September 22, 2004 03:24 PM

some of us surf that thing uncrowded, never seen another boat there, besides the Nias "shuttle" boat. and, uh, no it isnt shallow reef unless you are caught too deep on the inside. not my favorite spot, heavy as hell when it is on

i was just wondering on the naming thing. some people on this list get burnt if you mention a spot that is visible to about 50,000 passing motorists a day, but then have no problem talking about spots that are isolated and only accessible by boat, (unless you are staying in the Losmans on the islands that is).

just seems to be an inconsistancy. (sp?)

Posted by: flip Kerry flop at September 22, 2004 03:26 PM

comes from this

Posted by: cronk at September 22, 2004 03:28 PM

she is beautiful

Posted by: e at September 22, 2004 03:28 PM

hmmmm

Posted by: at September 22, 2004 03:29 PM

what is the name of that chick? she must be googled for the nudes and videos!

btw, OB still good. although not as glassy. smaller too. bunch of older guys out there on longboards too, think they own the place.

rip it!!!

Posted by: Maximus at September 22, 2004 03:29 PM

she's alright....

nah...she's a babe. but i see the contradiction you are trying to make....

Posted by: tomstah at September 22, 2004 03:32 PM

Unless I'm mistaken, that "bu wave at the top is a 3 waves set with no one on any of them.

Got to be a first at Malibu since the natives lived there.

Time to name a spot...Colt's Beach!

Posted by: kdalle at September 22, 2004 03:35 PM

Uh, Maximus, older guys on longboards DO own the place and their gonna start charging rent!

Posted by: kdalle at September 22, 2004 03:37 PM

flipflop guy - i removed the offending name from yesterday's report.. sorry if there are a few more heads in the lineup next time you make it out there.

have fun and ombak bagus to ya.

Posted by: e at September 22, 2004 03:38 PM

kdalle, those longboards are just the last step before you stop surfing and start hanging in the parking lot talkin' story...

ha!

kidding guys, dont want to offend anyone.
ya, ya, brotherhood.

Posted by: Maximus at September 22, 2004 03:50 PM

no worries, E. it's all bagus

Posted by: flip Kerry flop at September 22, 2004 03:51 PM

hold up, you mean my longboard is supposed to get IN the water?!?!?! i spent so much on it i couldn't stand to see putting wax, sand and salt on it. i just figured everyone else had one sticking out the back of their car in the lot, i should get one too....dammit.

leg doing the full on sewing machine/bass drum thing right now, antsy to get the F outta here.

Posted by: j at September 22, 2004 04:06 PM

the tide is killing it right now
damn

Posted by: at September 22, 2004 04:16 PM

Speaking of hanging out in parking lots, does anyone know if "Sloat Bill," the guy who lived outta his car at Sloat after his divorce in the Finnegan story, is still around?

Posted by: Andrew on 44th at September 22, 2004 04:41 PM

Andrew, I don't know Sloat Bill, but there is a guy in the Sloat parking lot sleeping in the cab of his beige and blue chevy truck almost every morning I drive by.

Posted by: Kaiser at September 22, 2004 05:25 PM

yaba daba doo

Posted by: bagel at September 22, 2004 06:09 PM

long boards...fat man...

Posted by: at September 22, 2004 07:02 PM

e, have you heard the Weezer tune called El Scorcho? I think you and Rivers Cuomo may have something in common.

Posted by: steve-o at September 22, 2004 09:04 PM

wow.. swell readings would indicate a rather large south shore of hawaii right now. They must be getting drilled!!

Posted by: Ian at September 22, 2004 10:52 PM

hmm...site issues today or just no update ?

Posted by: j at September 23, 2004 11:55 AM

Speaking of secret surf spots, how do you old timers feel about the influence of the internet and technology on surfing? Time and time again I read interviews with guys like Ken Bradshaw who say it's so great to be able to fly off to where the swell is when it hits. For a pro, great, but for the average guy, maybe not.

10 years ago your resources were a weather band radio (which at least wasn't owned by everyone) and charts only for the most hardcore/marine oriented. There was an element of dedication involved. Now the government is giving away satelite data, bathymetry, aeriel photos, real time buoy and wind data to any schlub with an internet connection. Much less of the effort involved. And while your average Linda Mar surfer probably just goes out because it is a sunny day, it probably raises the percent of people who would venture else where from say 10% to 30%, and worse yet, the number of Linda Marians going to secret spot ******** goes from 0.05% to 5%. Anyone kinda resentful of the hours of your youth spent searching and waiting are now done by weekend warriors in a fraction of the time? Or is it the march of progress makes the aloha spirit more accessable, and local knowledge for those occasionally breaking spots become the new bar to seperate the initiated from, well, me.

For my part, I realized my first 50 or so surf sessions (except for two) were all Linda Mar, then my next few hundred were all at the exact same cross-street on OB with exactly 5 travel days in there. Aint no one accusing me of clogging up a secret break, snaking rides or getting in my car.

**Note: I put in extended thoughts for the day because I have nothing new to read.

Posted by: Andrew on 44th at September 23, 2004 12:16 PM

I can't believe you site-named Linda Mar, man. Now the KOOKS are gonna know about it.

I take it from the cams, reports, and lack of claiming here that it's pretty forgettable out there today. I finished "repairing" my mangled Nev shortboard last night, and it's itching to see the water (and show me all the leaks I missed), but I take it this is not the day for it?

Posted by: Klooless at September 23, 2004 01:01 PM

dude...linda mar is foring and they got free granola in the bathrooms. go on the sets, they never close out

Posted by: at September 23, 2004 01:12 PM

Hey KK..I haven't been out, but through the haze fog it doesnt look like a shortboard would be the funnest option. Maybe a waxed door or something.

Bobbing around a lull yesterday, a guy next to me made a comment about wearing the Wave Repellent™. Didn't say anything clever in response, [ brain glitched ] but I felt so busted! Who 'twas that? Some niceness reader, surely. Bueller....Bueller..

Posted by: s.s. kookbait at September 23, 2004 01:12 PM

wasn't me as i was struggling enough on a shortboard to comments wouldn't be appropriate, but i think i saw you bobbing around a wave free zone around 7 last night.

Posted by: j at September 23, 2004 01:15 PM

SO comments wouldn't be....

Posted by: j at September 23, 2004 01:17 PM

I can't remember who asked about local repair dudes, so I'll just post this email address (volstone13@aol.com)I found on Craig's list. He is located in marina/cow hollow and says he can turn around boards in about 3 days. I don't know him and can't vouch for his work, but he's an alternative to waiting for your board from the big shops.

Posted by: steve-o at September 23, 2004 01:22 PM

All hail to the Radio Shack weather radio. It's power and glory have been lost in these here modern times.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at September 23, 2004 01:27 PM

There was something magical about listening to conditions on the radio over and over. Anticipating the waves when we heard the Pt. Arena or Cape St. Martin buoy jumped was magical. The accuracy in predicting has killed that bit of stoke. Disappointment that the swell isn't as good as expected is more often the reaction now.

Later, gotta check the buoys...

Posted by: kdalle at September 23, 2004 01:51 PM

The shit (kind of). I have one on my desk that is a Realistic Weatheradio. This one says "Deskube" and lacks an antenna... but whatever, they look the same.

Posted by: at September 23, 2004 01:58 PM

That was me above. Sweet 70s woody panneling to match your avocado-green kitchen. Super, super glassy today. Haven't seen it this glassy in months.

Posted by: dano at September 23, 2004 02:01 PM

i used to just go in blind and figure f* it, i'm getting in either way. now i live close enough that i'll go blind, but if i opt to not get in i haven't blown my weekend.


speaking of 'blown' and 'weekend', i only wish....

the line outside my door this morning....right before the alarm went off of course

the one on the right, paid for looking good. the one on the left, paid for mocking good looking people

Posted by: j at September 23, 2004 02:11 PM

If only Slates knew how to bottom turn...

If only Dingo knew how to cutback...

And clearly Parko has some problems throwing spray...

Posted by: dano at September 23, 2004 02:25 PM

the non-mohawked chick in that last pic is smoookin'

Posted by: bbr at September 23, 2004 02:48 PM

are you all seeing spots too?

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at September 23, 2004 02:58 PM

Went out today and stayed out until I couldn't surf any more. Found a peak to myself at OB and just kept going until on the last wave, I went to pop up and my arms gave out. I figured that meant it was time to come in. It was glassy and fun although tiny and getting smaller.

The nasal drip sure helps in explaining why you're late to work.

I didn't stay out because the conditions were great but because there's a lot of crap going on for me right now and it really helped to leave it for a while with no deadline like a normal DP. I rarely am sick so I think it's fine to take sick days when I'm feeling mentally sick. Too bad most people don't understand that in the work world.

Posted by: Nate at September 23, 2004 02:59 PM

i hear you nate, nothing cleanses like surfing til your arms want to fall off. nothing better than forgetting EVERYTHING else in the but the smallest, simplest, most enjoyable thoughts:
how the sun is hitting the surf and lighting it up, what the crabs are doing, how the seals are checking you out, should i try and x-step a little sooner to get my weight forward, etc. etc. hope things get better for you.

Posted by: j at September 23, 2004 03:12 PM

can somebody please unplug my sinus congested head?

Posted by: caveman at September 23, 2004 03:32 PM

Thanks j. The session and "radio free europe" playing in headphones is working wonders. That's the great thing about surfing that I haven't found in motorcycles, hiking, etc. -- you can't think about anything else.

Posted by: Nate at September 23, 2004 04:07 PM

saw the Black Rider last night. go see it. spend the $40 you will be glad you did. sea ranch abalone and some surf here I come.....

Posted by: goodmorning at September 23, 2004 04:49 PM

e, you're fired for not updating your blog today!

Posted by: donald at September 23, 2004 04:51 PM

Posted by: at September 23, 2004 05:09 PM

funny...


"Matchbox 20 finally finishes watering down new album"

http://www.theonion.com/news/index.php?issue=4038&n=1

Posted by: bird at September 23, 2004 05:11 PM

nate, i relate. yesterday at 1:30 i told my boss i was leaving - 'not feeling so good'. and i wasn't lying at all. i felt like shit.
half hour later i'm in the water getting fun waves with my brother. and i felt great. no worries or cares other than that next lump rolling right towards me....
then we finished up the afternoon with some rippage on the daly city mini ramp. that ramp is sick!!
it'd been a long time since i'd skated and surfed in the same day. and i've never done both after working for a few hours. now i'm wondering how to set up this 'mental illness recovery' each week...

Posted by: rza at September 23, 2004 05:43 PM

Geez

I just got back from Monsharkta and i have to say it was the best 3 hours i had in the water since april. Pulled the 6'9" Mongrel out of the bag and i have to say it was the smartest move ive made since switching to sliced bread. I did miss the clean cold turqoise water 'Tara is know for but otherwise there were plenty of southie pulses finding there way in. Gawd Bless the Pacific. Hope yall got yours

Posted by: Sutro D at September 23, 2004 05:45 PM

Geez

I just got back from Monsharkta and i have to say it was the best 3 hours i had in the water since april. Pulled the 6'9" Mongrel out of the bag and i have to say it was the smartest move ive made since switching to sliced bread. I did miss the clean cold turqoise water 'Tara is know for but otherwise there were plenty of southie pulses finding there way in. Gawd Bless the Pacific. Hope yall got yours

Posted by: Sutro D at September 23, 2004 05:45 PM

I just got back from there too---I was at the far south end on a 6'6" Nev kooking take-offs.

Posted by: Klooless at September 23, 2004 05:56 PM

i was there (ASR) - actually the mohawked girl was pretty hot too, it's just a bad photo

and the blonde was riDONKulous

both up on podiums, dancing & throwing out t-shirts as we drank free heineken

not bad

Posted by: paul b at September 23, 2004 06:13 PM

...my best move was really was from Quick Humps to Mrs Palmers Daughters....the Mongrel could really turn after that....glad you got some too klooless....

Posted by: Sutro D at September 23, 2004 06:33 PM

.....oh yeah, Old school thrusters on sweet september south swells rule...

Posted by: Sutro D at September 23, 2004 06:47 PM

Quick Humps is a wax, right? Could you explain "Mrs Palmers Daughters"?

Posted by: at September 23, 2004 07:16 PM

when i was younger it was quick humps, but when i started hanging out with mrs palmers 5 daughters the humps started getting longer...from 5 seconds to 15

Posted by: j at September 23, 2004 09:21 PM

with "j", they come 24/7.
The mohawked chick is supafly- supple body as well.
Good on ya S. Pacifica folks.
Best wishes to Nate- the world cant make sense every day...Peace

Posted by: steama at September 23, 2004 10:15 PM



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