E's Surf Report

Ouch. Sounds like 90% of my OB sesh. I was bumming that I couldn't make it out this dp, so now I don't feel as bad!

Hey all. Relatively new surfer, long-time lurker on this blog. Echo the sentiment that E's description is like many trips out at OB. Mine usually end up in the following fashion:
1. Paddle out for 30 minutes
2. See peaks north and south of you, but none where you are
3. Get swept (north or south) 1 mile of where you paddled out
4. Get cleaned up by set wave and pushed all the way inside
5. Go to #1 and repeat 10 times
Fun times

e, bummed to hear you had such a horrific session. mine was so so. you musta ended up in the wrong spot at the wrong time. sux when that happens! i only got about 3 rides, one of which ended in the worst wipe out/hold down in a while. somehow my middle fin and fin box got busted too. that was my back up board and the other one is still in the shop. kaiser was on fire today. good to see ck charging too.

HA, great description! I'll join in the welcome-to-my-world chorus.

Hey all, my girlfriend's car was just stolen from out in front of my house with all of her worldly possessions in it (she was moving). I'm letting her use my car through the weekend to get her life back in order. This is causing me to miss my DP dosage. Does anyone go by Oak and Cole on their way to the beach in the AM, and have room in their car? Can we work the carpool scene? I like to be in the water by 7am and out by 8. My email is adamb at sfsurfrider dot org. Thanks.

you want a coffee and a croissant too?

I also have plenty of hot water and towels.

when i was an grom we used to say when we had a session like yours today E, that you where suffering from "cantsurf". the cure for "cantsurf" was "remotherapy" which was bodysurfing in the shorepound to the point that you get sand reemed in everywhere.

just saw occy nail some vertical turns. great to hear potter making the calls. office bandwidth rules!

jealous hearing that the surf was good last night! I shoulda dropped responsibility like a bad habit and got out there.

Suddenly feeling kinda sick...cough...sniffle...cough...might not make it past lunch feeling this bad....cough...sniffle...cough...

It's nice to hear e describe my routine, although I imagine his duck dives are much more graceful than my epileptic excuse for a duck dive. Bailing off the board and swimming to the bottom is also a favorite of mine on empty OB days. Sure, it's a kook move, but I'm none too proud, and I'm always able to find a desolate spot on the beach. Sometimes I worry about the effect on my leash, but the crap-tastic velcro forces me to swim in usually once per session anyway.

One day soon, I hope to return to surfing in the ocean rather than just splitting my time between the cubicle and the library. Oddly enough, working on thesis every day makes me appreciate surfing more, but surfing everyday made me appreciate thesis less. There must be some kinda hierarchy there. I read BVB's interview of scholastic years lengthened by time in the ocean. Anyone else here got similar stories?

i love it when it misses the outer bars and slams into the inside like it was last night. so many ramps to hit out there. missed my alarm this morning but will definitely be on it again after work...

surfed last evening after work near the cement box. It looked good, but was mostly closed-out, dumping, thick and chunky, but not that big. paddling out, I almost got hit by a guy flailing his board into me. sheeez! sometimes I can't believe how many flailers there are surfing at OB. I think I saw maybe one guy (out of 20) that could surf (stand-up without falling over). I have to give it to the flailers: at least they are fearless. most of those guys belong at cowell's, but are charging OB.

went at it this morning, paddled out RIGHT NEXT TO e, maybe 10 feet away, skirted through the break, and never saw him again. Lerm made it out. He took off on a right, and I never saw him again....grabbed a few, paddled south to find everyone, caught a few, paddled north to find everyone (and saw a sick frontside right ride), caught a few, never found everyone, went in.

Definitely a disorganized swell.

Saw Loon getting out when I left, he was gearing up for Basque country (and was riding his NEW board). Not a great day for test riding today...but reef country on the north coast of Spain is...

I'm really bummed I missed superman today...

Just back from the beach w/ two observations.

First I watched a seal consume a large striper 20' from me- I was alerted by the crunch of the fish's head. I was extremely glad to turn and see a seal eating a fish. It was beautiful out today.

Wich leads to my second observation, it was beautiful, sunny and somewhat glassy. The surf wasn't great but functional. The general beauty of the environment can make up for poor surf. Which is why I think that many (certainly not today's) reprts on this site perhaps make the conditions out to be better than they really are. Morning glass is like beer goggles. Don't get me wrong, E. I don't think you should change a thing. It is I who needs to change some things around so I can more consistantly get out early.

Sorry I missed the group, I might have recognized CK, maybe the RFS. Sooner or later....

e, sorry to hear that the wrong-time-wrong-place-no-luck-treadmill had ya this morning. still, it sounds like that right treated you well and that your usual pos stoke persevered.

as for me, while i managed to luck into a bit of a channel for the first paddle and caught a thrilling right on the last wave of a set for a cruisy return to the outside, shortly thereafter, i was caught a few yards too far inside by the first wave of a macker set that drove me well inside. i paddled diligently for a few minutes duck-diving like crazy, but then -- with a sand and foam dredging wall sucking off the shallow bar in front of me -- i decided that a donut was waiting. so...other than one sweet, sweet, smooth, zippery right...not much luck for me.

lerm, sorry to see the busted fin. hope you can get it fixed quickly and easily. blakestah, good to meet you and put a face to the infamous name! next time i'll have to take a closer look at the RFS. Kaiser, nice work fulfilling the role of king-of-the-break to score a high wave-count despite the shifty conditions and crowd!

surfed southern kellyz last night, it was friggin GOOD!!
got my neck tweaked while dropping in on a wave. i was getting jockeyed by the KKLB'z idiots so I just went for it, smiling. I paid dearly with a world class wipeout and went in.

Overhead, bowly, shorepound.

damn.

e - sounds like my usual early fall sessions at Ocean Beach. I'm never quite ready when the "real" Ocean Beach starts to reveal herself. Even at my best, as the surf season develops and Ocean Beach is solidly overhead, I'm usually more than satisfied with three or four waves per sesh - anything after that and I start to feel like I'm pushing my luck.
I stopped to check it about 3 pm yesterday, wondering if it was worth playing hooky from my Tuesday night Marine Bio class. Definitely surfable, but in no way epic (IMHO) - except maybe the paddle; LOTS of short-period white water. I went to class.

how was sloats last night?

oh yeah. blakestah. how could i forget? great to see ya out there. we got sucked down south quite a ways. i wanted to see some rides on that RFS.

while you guys are talking about taking poundings and sucking foam, can anyone give me some suggestions for contact lens wearers who want to learn how to surf but who will undoubtedly get caught on the inside - do you wear contacts in the water? i'm blessed with great vision and have no idea what to recommend to a friend who claims she's pretty blind.

bagel, sloat to rivera yesterday afternoon was pretty damn good. The low tide kinda scattered it though. Dunno bout the night though. E, humble people need to be humbled every now and then too.. ALSO..

Does anyone know of any surf/skate/snow companies located in the bay. I'm looking for entry level/internship/bitch position to get my foot in the door. Sessions is too far of a drive, though they're the ideal company. Not looking for DLX dist. either. Thanks for any help.
iane at sfsu dot edu (I feel so technologically hip writing my email out like that!) Maybe RFS, inc. is looking to expand really big? ;)

the new RFS paddled thru today's heavier stuff very nicely. i don't know if it's the 2-5/8th thickness, the 2-inches-forward-centerpoint, the reduced drag of the RFS (compared to thruster), or a combo of all, but it's working. wasn't as hard to duck as i initially feared. only caught a few but it held firm on one late drop.

i'll send a report from northern spain in late sept if i get a chance! hope the next few weeks live up to expecations for y'all around here. salud!!

eclaire - one-day disposables / keep her eyes closed underwater.

thx ian..

Yestreday afternoon was really fun. i saw tall sean get slotted deep. it was uncrowded until about 5 then it was packed, so I left. The first good waves I've had since I returned from travels. Freaken love OB when its on. Algae almost got killed by a longboarder going over the falls in front of him, then the guy comes up screaming at him, There is a time when we must yell, scream and threaten people so they understand that they don't belong until they know what they are doing, Localism has its place. I learned the rules here in SF by being screamed at, it worked, and I learned to respect the waves and the people who know them better than me. We barred the guy and made him leave. IIf I do something stupid, drop in or what not, I'll apologize and leave, it just makes sense.

good stuff last night near nlocnil. as i was paddling out, saw a guy make a nice drop, quick bottom turn and enjoy a nice section of green wall. a bit crafty though as sections were looming everywhere. caught some good waves and was also pitched into the shoulder high sandbar a few times. always something to go over in fetal position and have your body firmly planted into the sand.

tonight, tonight, i'm on my way, home sweet home

you guys really ouaght to chill on divulging details on where your surfing. your simply telling the un-informed where to go. it's a big beach let the masses figure out where the goods lie. next thing you know andrew on 44th will be bailing his board right in front of you.

from bojon.com

seen guys who were 2 foot from me not make it out (better paddlers surfers) and also seen people of less ability right next to me slip through dry haired while I got stuck.

10 feet makes a world of difference.

pics of Ivan in Mexico City Florida Beach

http://us.news2.yimg.com/us.yimg.com/p/ap/20040915/capt.flpc20109151801.hurricane_ivan_flpc201.jpg

mexisurf...you are right on.

'cep't i'll only apologize and keep surfing.

eclaire - I wear gas-permeable hard contact lenses always, and only lost 1 in 32 years of surfing (lip hit me in the side of the head when I didn't expect it). You CAN open your eyes underwater if you squint a little, keeping your eyelids over the top and bottom edges of the lens. Hard lenses are the way to go if you can wear 'em, but not everyone can.

I bail my board within two blocks of the same cross street every time. I moved walking distance to the beach so I can walk to the beach. I've noticed people do tend bunch up a block south of where I go. Either they are afraid to get within 2 peaks of me, or they are showboating for the cam. Occasionally someone will join me on a peak, but then I paddle away while yelling "sanctuary! sanctuary!" and hurling seaweed. I full well recogonize I have the worst surf ettiquette in the ocean, so I just avoid everyone. I'm so very lonely.

kaiser and ck head out to check the surf while living out their wildest star wars/tatooine fantasies

I've been here a while now and really enjoy learning about the different breaks that pepper both coasts.
I'm curious as to a spot up north. I'll name it 'cause I don't think anyone surfs it, owing to the need for a boat to get to it and serious sharkiness. Apologies if it offends anyone, and E delete it i'm out of order.
Tomales Point. I've walked out there, down to the reef (great tide pools at low) and it was a big fat mellow left with a resident sea lion in the backlighting. Beautiful spot, well worth the foot work. Last weekend I camped across the bay and it was working again, though messy, like Pedro Point often looks when it's big.
So, has anyone actually surfed the place? I've seen it referred to in Buzzy Kerbox's book 'Wave Finder' but can find no first hand experiences. Is it just a mysto spot?

That is solid! Nice post J.

Well, I think the waves were pretty well described this morning. Lots of water moving around. The trendmill on the inside was unreal. I did get some rides this a.m. but I paid the price a few times. I love trying to punch thru one of those sucking beasts on the low tide. Useless.....

My last wave was a nice left that I had to punch out the back. After coming up for air, there was a sweet right coming in with 3 guys stacked on it. One guy WWAAAAAAYYYY deep, another a bit on the shoulder and another far out on the shoulder but all three paddling to go. I was in "no mans land" with 3 dudes coming at me. Luckily the guy on the shoulder didn't get in. The middle guy made it and almost scalped me. The deep guy had to straighten out as he got dropped in on. Anyway, that was the end of my session. Couldn't get back out after taking in on the head in fear of taking some fiberglass to my front teeth. I headed for donut point and killed a maple and chocolate.

Anybody use Kazaa to swap music?
What are the chances of getting sued?
How can they prove it if you deny it?

the RIAA is like an oil company.

thoughts?

NZ swell, there are really great spots in the Bay Area that no one surfs for the shark factor. Many many people may know of these spots, but few surf there regularly.

that BM photo is so great.

Charlie Hunter is down here thurs night. You SF headz said it was a great show right?

DP: nothing worse than enjoying some semi fun windswell and looking back at 30 junior high surf pe kids starting to paddle out. ohhhhh. i think every kid with long blond hair RIPPPPPPSS. they get so much speed and air even on the small ripples. damn what a school life i missed out on by not growing up in hermosa

Charlie hunter rips I used to see him on Thurs at the Up and Down club So of Market in the midnineties,. Does he still play that guitar with the extra bass strings??

anyone know what time SF Surf Shop closes? My bet is it's early today...

Ian-

Goto the website hyperlinked here and post your resume. Thats how I got my job here at http://www.flow.com. I have an entry level job and there are already fools in house that want it. If I move up and those fools move down, I would certainly put in the word for you. Creatures of Leisure are looking for sales reps in the surf world. Giant skate disti is always looking as well as the shoe companies. EPATH is local... We have an opening but its for a designer. Malakye works better than boardjobs.com. Dont go work for Thrasher/dlx et al as its a good start, I was there...but the pay sucks and they hound you. Real good industry folks and experince though.

I would hit up a lot of the snow companies as they are full steam right now with folks ordering stuff for winter.

As far as surf goes I had a hard time getting out yesterday. Didnt take me 30 min but at least 20 duck dives. I was tired but eventually got a nice wave that surprised the shit out of me. A bit overhead and real beefy wish I had my 6'10 and booties as I was trippin on how good and large the wave was. Didnt get much after that as people just kept swermin around me.

Someone told me that there is never a guarantee of getting out at OB no matter how good you are. I accept this and hope to build my pain threshold to never stop paddling and getting out there. As much as she slaps you she wants you. She wants to give it to you but wants you to work for it. I know I'll be shut down again but Im gonna go fighting until exhaustion or death.

Pez, There have been many a day when I've made it out and surfers far better than I didn't. Sometimes you get a hole and sometimes you don't.. Did I just say that??

Applied to the very same job as you pez, how is it working at Flow? They seemed nice and basically one of the only action sports companies in SF. Interviewed at DLX as well, nice guys, very low pay, lots of work, didn't feel it when I was there, not my style I suppose.

People up higher than you want your job? Trippy.

SF Surfshop should be open till 6 today.

thanks again blakestah

NZ Swell-

Blakestah is right on. Sharks. Sharks. Sharks.
Most of Point Reyes/ Tomales is sharkier than hell.
Flip side of that is that I have seen them at spots much nearer the city. So who knows? But remember, you and your friends are likely the only surfers in the water up north when the toothy ones come.

I Saw Your Mommy is on KUSF now!

i saw her lying in a pool of red...

OB is just getting cleaner and bigger!

Here is a pic from a few minutes ago. Unfortunately, I cannot host it. E, can you compress and put it up?

Swell today

Nice to hear good surfers say it can be tough to get out. It'll be comforting when I get denied in 2ft surf. High alphabet+ lunch session: thick rolly things outside turning to shapely, sometimes hollow things inside, but nothing really clean. I caught two, both by hopping on the whitewater on an outside roller: first time, got too far on the shoulder and missed the transition to the inside, second time missed a section but there was enough bump to get around it, so I got a ride long enough to get me inside to where . . . I couldn't get back out. Walked back up-beach and tried two more times: nope. Good workout, anyway, and a great, sunny day at the beach.

arrrgghhhh...i'm jealous! sounds like everyone is getting a little and i....am working too hard. what's the prognosis for tomorrow am? Wind?

this was me this morning..
but in reality it's a gulf coast shot from hurricane ivan swell (thanks for the link Adrian!)

After reading the comments about the tough paddle out conditions, is there a way to predict the current? Some days are so much worse than others even though it's the same tide.

Check out these photos from the Gulf Coast today...

http://www.fluidsurfshop.com/whatsup_frame.asp

My job is too easy for the moment and there is a good balance of industry derilects and company hoes. Once winter hits I'll be a little tech monkey fixing bindings and kissing yuppie snowboarder ass. The good is that the flow binding has really gotten a lot better and it's fairly solid. I hope that a lot of them have problems as that would assure me of a job.

Gonna hit the beach after work. My laggin puffin ass needs the workout.

speaking of current, what's up with the pull south on the inside and the pull north on the outside on bigger days. not that i mind - it's nice to actually end up in the same spot after many duckdives.

my longest ob paddle to outside: 35 minutes

at least you woke up this morning.....

eclaire,

i wear disposable soft lenses. they're pretty cheap these days. i lose maybe one or two a month at most, and usually keep a spare in my wetsuit's key pocket so i don't have to run back to the house or to the car when one pops out.

have never tried hard lenses, cannot speak to 'em, but it seems a reasonable assertion that they'd stick in there better than soft lenses. i'd be paranoid about busting one in my eye though.

one drag with the soft disposable lenses is that it is a pain in the ass to put one in when it is windy.

Pez, thanks man, yeah I actually frequent that site pretty often, but the flow job was the only one I found on there listed for the bay area. Thanks for the heads up and response! Anywho, word on the surf. Any other suggestions as far as intro-bitch for any places in the bay?

Tricks to getting out at OB (don't kill me, not my home break, haha). Though this would apply to any beachbreak.
1. Study the current flow before jumping in, at least 15 minutes...for rookies: 3 hours.
2. Look for 'seams', river-like routes where water pushes back out to the line up.
3. Jump in on the last waves of the set, you counted them right? By the time you reach the impact zone, the sets over.
4. Hope you find a seam, if you get into one...you figure it out.
5. Be Supremely Fit and experienced in getting douched and spun, so that it doesn't affect you when it happens.
6. Hold onto your board!

fooj, you are obviously not from around here. Here are my best tips.

If you can touch the sand, walk. If the sets coming through are too big to walk effectively, but it is still walkable between sets, grab your railsaver and dive under the incoming whitewater WITH YOUR BOARD. When you see an opening paddle like mad. Once you are past the shallow water and a set comes that you cannot make it under, again reach for the railsaver and drag your board under. Ditching almost always slows you down. Once you hit deeper water, duck the waves and hold on tight.

Thanks blakestah, hopefully I'll have any easier time getting out next time I'm in your parts. One thing though, holding my railsaver seems like a sorta dangerous thing to be doing having those fins so close and all. I really prefer to hold the duck dive position on the rails, seems safer.

Oh yeah, and who made the rule that when you duck dive you gotta go completely under the wave. Sometimes punching through the whitewash about half way or so can be an easier proposition. But that takes some practice to know when its appropriate. Which I'm sure you OB guys get lots of.

Bravo! More! More! Thanks fooj and blakestah. I will use these tips.... and I really enjoyed the magical story about "seams" where water is going "out".

I have cut-up hands from grabbing my railsaver and holding my board. Make sure you know what you are grabbing when doing this, otherwise, you have to get out, run to the car, get duct tape, tape up, run back, and paddle out again.

Or, you can wait for the tooth....

I never new it was called a "railsaver" but it makes sense.

Out like rainbow trout!

You can try to dive the nose of your board through, but the railsaver works a lot better. Just don't wrap it around your hand - grab it in your palm and hold tight, it can get ripped from your hands, no need to crush your fingers. I once crushed several nerves in my hand wrapping it around my hand.

On the railsaver tip, make sure that little string that connects the railsaver to the board is as short as possible, otherwise you can pull that little string through the deck - lotsa dings come in that way.

If you feel like you are getting mauled on the inside trying to duckdive, it's probably shallow enough to walk.

What is a rail-saver? never heard of that before

Let he who has never bailed cast the first, er, uh, hang on to the first surfboard.

The secret to OB is now out. Seams and railsavers. Look for tomorrow to be the most crowded on record.

The railsaver is the thick strap at the end of the leash that attaches to the board.

Before railsavers, leashes used to pull through surfboards. The railsaver is thicker to make this less likely.

The haiku of the day.

Jellyfish minefield
Autumn glass, summer sandbars
Throwing perfection

I offer these thoughts to share my experience.

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