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sunny, crystalline beauty, small.

Semi-glassy, vertically-challenged utility windswell in the water right now. A few micro-kegs presented themselves if you could find the momentary conglomerations of wave-energy. Not bad for a logger or a beginner out there, or even for a lonely surfer looking to enjoy a few quiet moments with the ocean. A gentle smattering of dawn-patrollers caught brief rides in inconsistent but doable conditions. Blakestah made the call that it would be a slight bit larger this morning than yesterday and he was correct. If you could find that specific spot on the sandbar where the few largish waves every 10 minutes would refract and wedge then you’d sleuth into a ride or five. I managed a few pumps, a few fun drops and one lip-click off the closeout.. soo.. that warm/calm/satisfied/relaxed/post-surf body-high is oozing through me. Also it’s ridiculously gorgeous outside YET AGAIN! Jeez.. feels like southern California. So nice.. ‘cept my office is cookin’!

Personal favorite sci-fi books (in no particular order)
Diamond Age – Neal Stephenson
Childhood’s End – Arthur C. Clarke
Dune – Frank Herbert
Fahrenheit 451 – Ray Bradbury
The Man in the High Castle – Philip K. Dick
Baroque Cycle Volume 2: the Confusion – Neal Stephenson
Ender’s Game - Orson Scott Card
Red Mars - Kim Stanley Robinson
Signal to Noise - Eric Nylund
Hyperion – Dan Simmons
Neuromancer - William Gibson

Loon's pic of OB on monday
niceness

Jeff sent me some wonderful photos, a few of which are posted below.
central coast
niceness

near santa barbara
niceness

california
niceness

ob
niceness

off-limits secret spot
niceness

hey e, check your email!

Great shot, Loon

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at September 8, 2004 10:20 AM

Surfed in boardshorts yesterday. 1st time in my 32 years living around here. Lasted about an hour due to small surf, but could have stayed out for 2.

Feels like this one spot on the big island next to a river that dumps ice cold water from mauna kea into the ocean. So, it uhh, feels like Hawaii!

Posted by: jimmie at September 8, 2004 10:23 AM

the girlfriend needed the car this morning, so no waves for me. i did, however, have a surprisingly fun session last night after work. found a nice sandbar setup where every so often, a nice shoulder high wave would peel all the way to the beach. enough punch for some carving and cutbacks too. the sunset was unreal and the water was sooo warm.

Posted by: lerm at September 8, 2004 10:24 AM

might try to hit it up now...hope the winds hold off.

e you got three of my favorites in there as well....Enders Game, Neuromancer and Farenheit 451. Haven't read the others...Friday by Heinlein (and most of his other stuff) is a good read as well...some of the Gordon Dickson stuff...The Hitchhikers Guide...oh boy don't get me started. Used to eat up sci fi as a kid. ALl my friends thought i was a geek...maybe i am.

hasta

Posted by: jdz at September 8, 2004 10:34 AM

jdz.. Heinlein's Stranger in a Stange Land is rad!

How could hyper-creative fantasy universes be considered "geeky?" They're the very core essence of what is cool.. imho!

ha!!

Posted by: e at September 8, 2004 10:37 AM

i'm with you...on both accounts. I just figure those who don't like sci fi lack imagination and vision. ha! How's that for a gross generalization?

ever read any David Brin...more good stuff.

Posted by: jdz at September 8, 2004 10:41 AM

never read brin.. i'll check him out.

Posted by: e at September 8, 2004 10:48 AM

Hopefully some day we won't need V and its missiles, it will close down, and some really good surf will open up. Satellites should be launched from Mojave!
Like a second Ranch.

Posted by: Nate at September 8, 2004 10:55 AM

Posted by: garry at September 8, 2004 11:05 AM

HOORAY IT'S SEPTEMBER!!

Posted by: j at September 8, 2004 11:06 AM

Posted by: garry at September 8, 2004 11:09 AM

Posted by: garry at September 8, 2004 11:11 AM

JDZ – missed your post from last night. Nice first name reference! I’m a few years older than you. You were in the same class as Heather G? Did you take your best shot ?:) You probably know my brother – he hung out with Tom R (aka Ty), Steve T, Woo, Shambi (during BB season) – all those clowns.

Posted by: Ace at September 8, 2004 11:17 AM

At a B&B in Monterey a couple of weeks ago I had breakfast with an old codger who, it turned out, conceived of that airforce base, lobbied to get it built, and came up with the name, as he said, while being put on the spot by a superior, not having thought about it before (it's named after two guys: an air force general and a senator).

9 to 10 it was very nice out there: small but clean enough at least for kooks and with enough shape to be surfable on whatever board you like. The smaller, slower waves force me to work on getting better speed out of bottom turns, the "pumping" thing, I guess.

Posted by: Klooless at September 8, 2004 11:22 AM

Saw Marco Espenales out these this morning, beautiful morning to surf. The sand was cold on my feet, the waves small and occasionally tasty. Looks like more tomorrow. But the windswell should be a bit bigger and less clean.

e - can you edit garry's pic and put something like
width="300"
into the img tag?

Water temp is close to 60 - it may rise for another week or two to its peak...

Posted by: blakestah at September 8, 2004 11:32 AM

it was just me plus a few seals & dolphins out there this morning. i've been returning to this peak that's been throwing barrels for the past few days. mostly lefts like the one in the pic (thanks e & sharkbait!). they were micro today but just big & punchy enough.

after one brief cover-up where the dropping water drape went aglow with the light of the rising sun i found myself thinking that a full cover-up and release in these conditions would be the polar opposite of what it's like inside those sensory deprivation tanks ... magic. i am still coming up coughing every few tries because my mouth is agape as i watch the setup.

speaking of polar opposites, garry, are those shots of Gary, IN?

Posted by: loon at September 8, 2004 11:35 AM

Those pics look like Great Lakes shots to me. Industrial backdrops, brown water: Lake Erie or Michigan? Still, looks like fun to me...even if it would freeze yer nads.

Posted by: amigoism at September 8, 2004 11:51 AM

day 43 without wind....oh where oh where are the BEAUTIFUL onshores of june and july? i've resorted to tying string with handles to my ceiling and watching kite videos while pulling on the handles, going thru the motions. i imagine it's how surfers feel while on indo boards watching videos....*sigh* DAMN this sunshine! DAMN this no wind.

Posted by: kyte ryder at September 8, 2004 11:55 AM

sweet ass junky brown lake riding!

Posted by: $ir poop at September 8, 2004 12:05 PM

I heard there was a B-Stah in the vicinity this morning but I didn't dare invade the space of a creature such as that. With a fin that rotates, I have no business being within a sandbar to such a monster...

Posted by: Kaiser at September 8, 2004 12:15 PM

surfing without a leash is the best.
thats all. glad there is surf and that surfing is still fun.
aight.

Posted by: elias at September 8, 2004 12:22 PM

good job. pics are of some great lakes. EXCEPT the first one. Lake Tahoe!!

Posted by: garry at September 8, 2004 12:23 PM

elias,

check out the book The Perfect Day, pg 101. James Jones riding Waimea without a leash. That guy's one of the heaviest big wave riders on earth, but no ones heard of him. He was part of the crew that transitioned from Greg Noll et all to todays crew. First guy to get tubed at Waimea back in the 70's, hence the rainbow Tuberider surfboards. Bad ass. He's also a full on cumputer nerd like many of us here.

Posted by: alchi at September 8, 2004 12:28 PM

thanks alchi, ill check it out.

this is the best too.

Posted by: elias at September 8, 2004 12:42 PM

you geeks don't have to feel bad anymore. not in this geo-demo.

As a non geek I have one word for you, Bill Gates. Biggest pimp / hustler to ever live.

As an aside, I don't know how you guys on this report get so barreled every day. It's a mystery to me. Maybe tomorrow I'll get up early and someone can show me?

Posted by: tomstah at September 8, 2004 12:48 PM

Tom, what I do is first thing when I get up, I pull the sheet from the far side of the bed and roll it across my body. To get REALLY deep in the barrel, you will want to roll over on your side, facing a wall, reach over with the opposite hand, grab the sheet, then roll over to your other side. This should put you in about the middle of the bed and you should be fully covered up in a nice barrel.

Sometimes, I like to just keep my head just off the shoulder that way I don't get the annoying "wwooooooooooooossssssssssssshhhhhhhhhhhh" sound ringing in my ears.

Posted by: Kaiser at September 8, 2004 12:55 PM

then i've gotten some 12 hour barrels in my day.

used to be late to work and show up still tanked on the 3-11:15 van driver shift at the hyatt regency in greenwich ct.

the best was when van #31 was back firing, we would roar up US flooring the big v8 and then abruptly take foot off the gas and BA-BOOOOM!!!!

The echos from the backfire off the American Brands HQ Building (a fortune 500 co.) would create sonic boom or some shit and the condo owners called the hotel manager claiming we were throwing m-80's out of the hotel van.

then i had to go and make the explosion under the I 95 overpass.....

I also won the longest peel out in the front driveway in front of the main entrance of one of the jewel hotels in the Hyatt chain.

The Ford LTD really has tons of power and lays lots of rubber and a good screech. Even better than the mustang GT who's suspension didn't allow for as good a peel out.

Those were the days....

Posted by: tomstah at September 8, 2004 01:02 PM

Been reading th eposts here afterhours, too busy during the day. As for the surf, man this stuff is hard to surf. I dodged the crowds at OB this weekend and got my fair share. I think it is now officially more crowded here than it is in So Cal, I mean I've surfed points with less people. I know that as the surf gets bigger there is less people, unfortunately for me I eventually get weeded out of the mix too, of well.

E, I like the organic pics today, don't care much for the contest stuff earlier in the week.

Sci-fi- not what gets me going

3/2 feels good, I'm tempted to rip the sleeves off.

Have absolutely no inspiration to bust out the camera.

Water is dpoing a feature on SF in the winter ish, I'm not sure if its a good thing.

My classroom is 87degrees and my classes are bigger than they have ever been, 38 7th graders 11 are Spec Ed... Thanks Arnie

Posted by: mexisurf at September 8, 2004 01:08 PM

my bedroom was 100 degrees last night, target is sold out of fans. sonofa.....

but, using kaiser's tuberiding method i did manage to score a nice, rubberless tuberide in the warmest 'waters' ever.

Posted by: j at September 8, 2004 01:14 PM

mexisurf, i cut the arms off my old suit the other day. and i cant say it was a bad move, except that i cut them about a inch too high and i probably look pretty funny.

Posted by: elias at September 8, 2004 01:20 PM

mexi.. to remove the crowd-factor around here simply avoid the 9-11 slot on weekends and/or surf at 6am every day... or, of course.. frequent one of the many low-key spots that you know about.

With the exception of this weekend.. i've barely seen another surfer in my last 12 sessions. though.. shit.. i shouldn't jinx it. maybe with this Water article things will change??

i feel like the so-cal and santa cruz crews are much more on-top of the dawn-patrol.. for some reason bay-area heads don't like to surf before 8:30??

Posted by: e at September 8, 2004 01:24 PM

got an email from silvin at aqua...
------------------------------------------------------
just wanted to put the word out on the 1st annual boogie contest at SloatPoo Sept. 18th 2004. it should be a good time and you never know we could get killer diller waves. Alex Czech and I and another friend of ours are judging. Can you guys put the word out. You can get entry forms at AQUA SURF SHOP and it's only $5 to enter. hit me back with any questions.
L8
sm
------------------------------------------------------
insert derogatory boogie comments here ....

Posted by: bbr at September 8, 2004 01:27 PM

**j presents: PEOPLE WHO CHANGED BACHELORHOOD FOREVER**

in light of school starting back up again i've decided to run a series of posts for all you kiddies headed back to the carefree good life.

the first installment highlights mr. gregory pincus:

mr. pincus' work, funded by katherine mccormick, led to the development of female oral contraceptive. big ups should also be given to the drug companies syntex and searle, whose synthetically developed progesterone helped progress his work.

stay tuned tomorrow for the next installment.

Posted by: j at September 8, 2004 01:35 PM

E, what is inside the new Water mag? Love those pages.

Had an insane skate down many of the Palos Verdes hills last night just before sunset. Ahhhh. No cars, smooooth blacktop, varying degree of grades, barrelled by some trees, several half-loop driveways to go in and out of. I'll have to show you Noriega riders the goods if you ever make it down to socal. Hope i don't get yelled out by some PV skate locals.

Irrrrriiiiieee!

Posted by: Hb at September 8, 2004 01:37 PM

it's crowded here?

Posted by: at September 8, 2004 01:38 PM

I've been surfing the non-hip spots for a few years now. Sometimes OB is the only place going though, so I hit the peaks with no on on em. More often than not those peaks suck and there's a reason no ones on em. I've found other high closeout to shoulder ratio beachbreaks to be better than 2nd rate OB peaks.

Back in HS, we OWNED the best peaks at OB. That's our little present to you all. Kiss my feet. Give me a job if your a manager hodaddy.


I guess I should early dawn patrol with e.

Posted by: jimmie at September 8, 2004 01:52 PM

Surf cams...Water article...Contests...Crowds...

I'm gettin' a little bummed here.

e-Just as an experiment...shut down the site for a week. The vibe needs a rest.

Pray for surf...

Posted by: kdalle at September 8, 2004 01:54 PM

THE REDCOATS ARE COMING, THE REDCOATS ARE COMING!!!!

Posted by: j at September 8, 2004 01:58 PM

THE SKY IS FALLING THE SKY IS FALLING!!!!

Posted by: J at September 8, 2004 01:58 PM

kdalle?

is that you or did someone hijack your handle?

one of my favorite ever quotes/recurring quotes on this site is and has been....

"keep surfing no matter what"

Posted by: tomstah at September 8, 2004 02:00 PM

one of my all time fave quotes:

"if you can't find an empty peak at ob, you don't want to."

Posted by: ex-local at September 8, 2004 02:05 PM

The last few days had fewer bad vibes cuz ya'll got waves. You're just a bunch o junkies. All cranky when you don't have the fix. Oops, I said the ya'll word and I'm not from the south.

Posted by: Dennis at September 8, 2004 02:07 PM

Yeah, great weekend. I saw a really blond guy with a fancy paint-job board w/ one of Blakestah's RFS on it ducking into his house Monday as I was desuiting. A beautiful board. I am gonna have to try it, that RFS. Haven't been able to surf today or yesterday as my new cat was hit by a car or something. Going to pick her up at the vet this afternoon. Man it was upsetting. Looks like she's gonna make it though. All the tough goes South when you are holding a broken pet in your arms, and I am not so tough to begin with.

Glad to get the vicarious vibe, wish I was out there leashless on the big red Tyler (but man it was fun to surf the 6'6" these last few days).

Go see Sprout- but buy tickets early (and often).

Posted by: goodmorning at September 8, 2004 02:12 PM

goodmorning...wow!...talk about a tough string...first the wheel issue...now your cat. sorry to hear it. glad, however, that she's going to pull through. you are due some serious pos karma.

Posted by: ck at September 8, 2004 02:17 PM

BUT dennis you DID spell ya'll korrectly.

surfed a bit from 9.30 > 11.30 or so....
amazing. thanks for the tip elias. i did not go bare
BUT it was warm and there were some fun little
sliders to be had....glassy glassy glassy even 2 barrels
non-kaiser style.....
sorry kaiser. will try that this eve.

does that technique work tandem?


great vibe in the water. seems that everyone
has had their share. or more than their share and
are ready to share more.....hmmm i hear the alarm
will wake us all up soon.

will the real OB please stand up? or show up?
although this one is very nice and i ain't bitching
at all.

peace on yer audi....

Posted by: korewin at September 8, 2004 02:26 PM

There is no surf anywhere in SC. Well, at least the red tide is gone.

"if you can't find an empty peak at ob, you don't want to." -- That's so 1990s.

Posted by: dano at September 8, 2004 02:27 PM

So, I'd like to get a consesus from the crew. I'm leaving for Indo Friday. Having snapped my favorite 6'8" 2 wknds ago, I don't have a fav board. I am going to take my 7'4" for larger days, but here is where my question lies. Take the second rate 6'6", and pay $109 xtra (on top of the $54 I'll be paying for the 7'4") x 2 (roundtrip). Or just buy a board when I get there and save myself the fees at least one way? The downfall I see is I won't have my "utility" board the moment I get there, which I'm sure we are headed straight to Airports. Any insights??

Posted by: obsurfer at September 8, 2004 02:36 PM

BBR, I need some deets on the Bodyboarding event!

For example, if we get like 4 peeps together can we be grouped in the same heat?

Lemme know. I got some bad motherfuckers that want in!

Posted by: Kaiser at September 8, 2004 02:38 PM

yes please

http://www.bikini.com/images/sm/lola/portfolio/blola_039_port_full.jpg

Posted by: tomstah at September 8, 2004 02:41 PM

Hey e, pick up your present at SF Surf! *sniff * I'll keep it safe if you change your mind

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at September 8, 2004 02:48 PM

kaiser-
i doubt it, but talk to the guys at aqua for more info.

Posted by: bbr at September 8, 2004 02:51 PM

Come on! Hook us up!

Posted by: Kaiser at September 8, 2004 02:55 PM

i've seen kaiser's boys ride on the 4th of july weekend, it's in everyone's best interests if these guys are in the same heat so some of them get eliminated!!

Posted by: j at September 8, 2004 03:00 PM

They like to compete! Gamers if you will. Besides, only one should advance as a contest with more then one is too much.

Posted by: Kaiser at September 8, 2004 03:05 PM

just got back from the city...surfed from 12 to about 2. better than it looked from the beach. Just me and a woman on a longboard sharing a peak. she was just learning but seemed to be having a good time. fun to hoot her into the little waves. Sun shining bright and water red brown...Just as i was about to leave the ocean got that nice riffled texture, and one of the beefier waves of the session popped up and presented a nice little wall. I paddled in made the drop which was steeper than the others and then crouched in for a little coverup. deammmmmn! Ok, maybe not a complete cover up but it was nice to see that wall come up on your right...stick your hand in and just go with it. fun.

Ace...yep...you got me dialed in. Hung out with all those guys. Was and still am friends with Tim Q, Ari M and Eric M...if those names mean anything. You know, Tim Q. had a shot with Heather G...I think Tom R actually dated her???...unfortunately for some reason we all thought she was kinda weird. If we had only known!!! Now if I could just figure out who you are.

Posted by: jdz at September 8, 2004 03:16 PM

it's so cute when the internet reunites people

Posted by: j at September 8, 2004 03:40 PM

CK-

It does seem to pour when it rains, and everything costs around $600. Thank god I don't have kids...

Surf related- Sat I surfed an unusual spot in plain sight with an old friend. Hell of a climb down & up but some real potential. needless to say we were the only ones out. The climb cures crowds I guess. Then ate some fine tacos at the taqueria at the Landing. Followed that up with 2 hours of the finest bodysurfing I have done in years. Some long rides, some drop in to close out tubes and out the back. My sinuses are still a headachy mess. Which leads to my question: any advice for drying the sinus cavity out? I have tried Sudafed, hanging upside down, whatever. I haven't been in the water since Sunday and I am still leaking salt water. And sinus cookies. Don't remember this problem as a kid.

And don't tell me to get a closet auger, please.

Posted by: goodmorning at September 8, 2004 03:42 PM

Everyone gets barreled on the internet.....

Posted by: 'stah at September 8, 2004 03:42 PM

OK, I was out Monday, but that still seems too long ago to be draining large quantities of salt water from my head.

Posted by: goodmorning at September 8, 2004 03:43 PM

Blakestah-

I would like to set up a loaner appt with you for the RFS. The boarad I saw Monday was beautiful, but the fin looked like a kidney. And I want to take you bodysurfing (the invitation is open to any of the board regulars that have fins). You may not make it out and you may get rag-dolled but bodysurfing is barrel city. I have a friend who kneeboards bacause he likes the barrels, I inturn love to bodysurf closeout shore pound for the barrels. Sure it's sharkey but man it's fun.

Posted by: goodmorning at September 8, 2004 03:48 PM

wrong 'stah

Posted by: 'stah at September 8, 2004 03:51 PM

goodmorning, I got it written down, drop me an email about whether you like 6'8", 6'3", or 7'9".

The board you saw Monday (with the kidney fin, which should be ridden before it is judged), is my personal board. If you meet me for a surf we can swap, but I don't let that one get far from my sight.

I already bodysurf sometimes, but I prefer standing. Judith lent me some fins once when we went to a HMB area beach, that was kinda fun.

Posted by: blakestah at September 8, 2004 03:58 PM

Speaking of barrels. I got barreled at Linda Mar last week when it was warm and sunny with that big windswell coming in. I know you aren't going to believe it, but I swear a bowl hit the virgin sandbar, it pitched and I pulled in. Only lasted a second and I made it out.

I was the only one out at the far 3/4 north end. I never surf linda mar but I just wanted to swim around that day, since every where else was shit.

I know, linda mar doesn't barrel, but it was kind of bigger where no one else ventures and the summer sand bars allow for some pitchyness.

Posted by: jimmie at September 8, 2004 04:05 PM

i wanna get barrelled!

i saw a dude get a sick barrel at linda mar last winter. i think i wrote about it before but the guy was on a longboard (maybe 9 foot). An older dude maybe in his mid-40s, little pot-belly.. kind-of a Marine-mullet type hairdo.. but.. i kid you not the guy took off on a larger left and just hung back in the pocket and crouched down while the wave threw over his head.. he got fully, totally pitted. he came cruising out like it was no big deal and paddled right back out. No claim. not even a smile! I paddled over to him and said, "that's the best barrel i've ever seen at Linda Mar!" he just smiled and shrugged and said, "thanks."

Posted by: e at September 8, 2004 04:15 PM

Jimmie,

I'm only playin' on the barrel stuff.....matter of fact, I'm getting ready to go shove myself in a few myself on this chubby evening tide.

Posted by: tomstah at September 8, 2004 04:16 PM

oh yeah.. that's cool that you got barrelled Jimmie! nice one! And also Loon and Corewin! Damn! lots o' barrels.

Posted by: e at September 8, 2004 04:16 PM

Sorry to hear the DP scene will be exposed to the masses. Here's what the crytal ball predicts....

The story will be glossy, slick, sexy. It will paint the DP crew as bold heroes challenging the best waves of the day. Matador's of the surf and time management. Eager to be part of the scene, more challenger's will show up. Java Beach will triple profits. REI will sell out of solar showers. Sharkbait will have dudes carrying her board to the sand. E, will lose his voice from having to say hello and goodmorning to so many. Kaiser, will have diffulculty finding a maple bar, let alone a parking spot. Loon will fly the coop. Blakestah will open a RFS rental shop from 4:30-6:30 am. Bruce will run out of film, and disk space needing to find venture funds to scale horizontally. J, will be broke from flowing far too many pre session breakfast beer bong hit's to the masses. Tomstah he'll be ok as he will wait till 9:30 and say he's at a client meeting ;). Klooless will become the world surf slalom champion on either long or short boards. And bbr won't stand for any of it.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at September 8, 2004 04:17 PM

nice one jimmie! despite all the naysayers there's a left that gets working pretty good sometimes at minda lar. this one sandbar seems to get decent every year right around xmas.

and to clarify, i am still a barrel virgin - i have been getting covered BRIEFLY but have yet to find my way out of one, so i am not claiming...yet...

Posted by: loon at September 8, 2004 04:27 PM

"bbr won't stand for any of it"

classic.....i prefer the afternoon lows personally in the late fall and winter. they make the waves throw....so you can get barreled.

you can have the DP...

Posted by: tomstah at September 8, 2004 04:33 PM

ooh, surf slalom!! i hear the slalom gates at lindy are breakaway!

(the best part of 3to5's post was "and bbr won't stand for any of it" - NOW THAT IS COMEDY!)

Posted by: j at September 8, 2004 04:34 PM

the DP is the time for me
a bird in the tree sleeps peacefully
nobody out as far as i can see
the DP is the time for me

Posted by: e at September 8, 2004 04:35 PM

i can't wake up so i have no other choice but to bash it....

DP sucks...

..unless I make it, then it's good.

Posted by: tomstah at September 8, 2004 04:37 PM

I'm usually stiff as a board in the morning and can't do much more than check email and drink some coffee. That and I drink to much, hence the handle. I'm one of the 8:00-11:00 crew.

Posted by: alchi at September 8, 2004 04:44 PM

8 is still early...specially for an alchi

Posted by: alky at September 8, 2004 04:45 PM

Champion...of nose water, maybe, though goodmorning seems to be in the, er, running. GM, I don't know how idiosyncratic it is, but I can jettison most of my (often prodigious) load by making as if to drink from a low-ish fountain (bent down, head sideways), then turning to face the ground (whoosh).

Barrels---is that like "over the falls"? In that case I've had ZILLIONS.

Posted by: Klooless at September 8, 2004 04:50 PM

Speaking of barrels, when is western Redwood City going to go off again? If I get one or two there, I'll hang up the board for the rest of the year sometimes.

Posted by: alchi at September 8, 2004 04:59 PM

barrels or blackouts?

Posted by: alky at September 8, 2004 05:05 PM

must be something interesting in those trees...


Posted by: j at September 8, 2004 05:09 PM

That photo of the dude on monday is what I call a narrell..near barrel. Its pretty much there but if that were me I would say," I was so close to getting barrelled. I could see the lip and everything, but fuck I just got a narrell and it was still fun."

Posted by: pez at September 8, 2004 05:12 PM

ha.. i get fafrobarrelled all the time.. far from barrelled... narrelled is cool though. do you think that guy in loon's photo gets barrelled in the next milli-second?

Posted by: e at September 8, 2004 05:39 PM

Only carry my board to the sand? How about a couple of dudes paddle it out, too? The rest can wait on shore to serve me hot coffee and croissants post session. One lucky guy can massage my feet. ;)

Sinus draining cure! Monday I was sitting above a concrete beach bench, bent over to pet my neighbor's golden retriever, and my nose completely unloaded on the poor dog's head. I felt so attractive. Maybe those dudes won't carry my board. But my sinuses feel much better! Everyone, go pet some animals.

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at September 8, 2004 06:16 PM

3to5, that was one of the best posts in a long time!

Punchline - nice delivery if I do say.

Posted by: Kaiser at September 8, 2004 08:43 PM

Someone say barrels?
Barrels at OB

Posted by: blakestah at September 8, 2004 09:47 PM

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