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Really small.

More of the same summer stuff you’ve grown to love… err… it’s small, piddling, inconsequential. At the same time it could be fun with the right attitude. If you’re just looking to swim around a bit and maybe snark into some mini-gliders on your super-mal, you might be psyched. If you’re looking to just float on your back and relax as non-threatening wavelets pass underneath, you could be satisfied. Or if you’re back clenches up in pain the moment you sit up in bed.. you might be deeply relieved that it’s not going off out there… or something.. Blakestah and others (surfpulse, wetsand) all predict a little bump in swell from the NW so that could be exciting.

Cool.. soo.. I’ll throw down some more pro-surfer reviews.. it’s pretty fun to write ‘em.

Kamalei Alexander - Deep in the Kauai wolfpack. Big brother is Kala Alexander, who was one of the rough-necks in Blue Crush (tattooed, ripped). Kamalei is featured in many of the Volcom vids including Computer Body, Football Schmootball and Magna Plasm. The guy friggin’ rips and has a smooth, aggressive, ballsy style. In one of the videos he successfully air-drops into one gaping Backdoor pit after another. He just keeps taking off inside the barrel and somehow gets spat-out alive every time. Cat-like. Slater-like. Has a knack for stuffing himself back into barrels. He’ll be maneuvering down the line, then all-of-a-sudden he’ll stall like a mother-fucker and cram himself back into the barrel. Crew up surfing with the Irons brothers. Distinctive style. Inspiring to watch surf. Produced the movie, "Ahead," which features the whole wolfpack, and also the Irons brothers and all the Kauai boys. Don’t know anything about his personality or character but his brother made the internet rounds a few months ago beating the shit out of some California surfer who refused to paddle in during the pipeline bodyboarding contest. Kala got this guy on the beach and just pummeled him with his elbows in front of a huge crowd of onlookers. No joke.

short Kamalai video


Wardo – Hyper-talented San Clemente loose cannon. Barrel hound. Absolutely fearless and probably doesn’t really care if he dies. Or.. at least.. he’s very willing to put himself on the line. Can pop and land airs without even thinking about it. Rules it at shallow, barreling spots like the Box and Off the Wall. Has a kid. Likes to wrestle with Flea or whoever. Doesn’t mind fighting. Innovative, cutting-edge surfing. Huge floaters, carving 360s, deep barrels, the whole nine. Most likely will finally make the tour this year, which shows some character and perseverance from Wardo because he’s been super close the last few years and just barely missed making the cut. Last year it came down to the last WQS event at Haleiwa and Wardo missed out by one heat. Doesn’t come off like the smartest kid in school but damn can the dude surf.

Surfer Mag's Wardo interview

Archy – Cruisy, older-school, tattooed San Clemente legend. Best backhand in the game? The Arch was one of the first surfers to leverage his “look” (in conjunction with his sophisticated, bad-ass surfing) into lucrative endorsement deals… ala Donovan, Rasta, etc. He likes the rockabilly style with greased hair, hot-rods, 50’s rolled up jeans, wife-beaters, etc. “Addiction, the Archy story” is a great flick to add to your collection. Archy simply destroys it in any conditions. Developed a huge reputation virtually owning Off the Wall and Backdoor for a good stretch of the late 80’s, early 90s. Has a son who reportedly rips. Comes across like a mellow, likeable guy. Has struggled with alcohol addiction. Extremely loose, quick, agile and athletic on a surfboard. Fucking attacks lips. Still enters air shows even though he might be getting close to 40 years old and does well in them? Legend has it that Archy was pulling 360s within his first month of surfing (T-street, san clemente pier). Timmy Patterson shapes his boards. One of my favorite surfers.



Archy's boards are shaped by Cole Simler: www.colesurfboards.com

Posted by: jacob at August 6, 2004 10:21 AM

cool reviews, e. i've got some reviews in different categories below. have a good weekend niceness.

~~~

Movie Review: Premiere of Thomas Campbell’s “Sprout” at the Guild Hall Theatre, East Hampton, NY. Four out of Five Stars. Campbell’s new film is a beautiful cinemagraphic look at our ocean and the waves we ride, focusing mostly on those smooth and stylish sliders who ride longboards, fishes, eggs, and other non-thruster shapes. Four years in the making, the film reflects this extended labor with its diverse selection of exotic waves and exciting sessions, unique camera angles, and sharp image clarity found during the entire seventy minutes. This is not your standard hack and slash punk rock surf flick, with the mood instead being characterized by the intriguing soundtrack of predominantly jazz mixed with some good beats and some of the surfy instrumental style of “Shelter”. Campbell is perhaps guilty of some excessive artistic indulgence at times, but the ocean photography and wonderful riding more than compensate for this. The water photography is particularly excellent, with some amazing first-hand perspective shots of riding inside the barrel and crystal clear underwater shots of big tube rides. A comparison may be made to “Longer”, although with much broader scope, and so if you subscribe to Jbrother’s philosophy of “open your mind and your boards will follow” and approach this film looking forward to very talented riders riding many beautiful waves with many different styles, then that is exactly what you’ll find. Highlights include: amazing footage of Mark Cunningham bodysurfing ridiculous Pipe; Mike Stewart getting nutty on his sponge; Joel Tudor obviously ruling it all over the place; some sexy, stylish women showing how it is done; Joel and Rob cruising around on Costa Rica’s most famous left pointbreak; an exotic trip to Ceylon; Rastavich, with lightening speed, demonstrating why he is one of the most exciting surfers to watch; and some crazy big barrels in the East Indies.

Hurricane Review: Premiere of Jah Love’s Hurricane Alex, East End of Long Island, NY. Three out of Five Stars. Jah Love provided many East Coast surfers with thrills and smiles with His first hurricane release of the season, Alex, this past Wednesday. However, the truth of this early season storm was that it was perhaps over-anticipated, and fell into something of the classic East Coast pattern of a short-lived swell. East Coasters were so excited to have a hurricane, we all chose to ignore its relatively weak strength. Alex peaked for only about 6 hours in the middle of the day, and so dawn patrollers and post-work-sessioners alike were left a little bit out of luck. Arriving at the beach before 6am, obviously bursting with enthusiasm, I was left with a confused look on my face while holding my mini-gun as I watched longboarders dominating the clean, glassy TWO to THREE foot peaks. Without my log, I was not even inspired to get wet, and went home to nap and save energy for my after work session. That session proved to be fun, but the swell that had not really arrived at 8am was already down to its leftovers at 5pm. Searching for the best conditions for an hour proved fruitful, and when I finally paddled out near the end of the East End, I enjoyed two hours of sunset surfing with inconsistent but solid headhigh (with occasional +) waves. This session fell into the category of “quality over quantity” as good sets were inconsistent, but when they did come through, they provided fun, fast sections as they bowled and broke on the inner sandbars. Although disappointed by never catching a session of full on, consistent hurricane juice, the waves I rode left me smiling all day yesterday, as I would close my eyes and picture the racy ramps, quarter-pipe like sections, steepness, hollowness, and other good memories while feeling the flow of well-balanced, smooth carving and linked turns. The Season has started, it’s supposed to be an active one, and we’ll see what kind of waves we get by September after the water heats up during August. Bring on the Canes! One Love, Jah Bless.

Posted by: j.o.c. at August 6, 2004 10:23 AM

yeeeeah.. j.o.c. up in the mix! Thank you for the Sprout review. I'm very excited to see that film. Looks like a solid production

Posted by: Ian at August 6, 2004 10:29 AM

Oh yeah e, you forgot to mention Kamalei Alexander's film he produced, Ahead. It's solid movie of the isalnders ripping up everything around home and a few other spots. Worth checking out, especially Gavin's part.

Posted by: Ian at August 6, 2004 10:34 AM

yo! niceness! after a too-busy week at work with no waves since the weekend, FINALLY Friday is here! diggin' the reviews...and, like Ian, stoked to check out Sprout! j.o.c., the Alex review is classic! sorry to hear you didn't get it at its peak, but not that sorry as it sounds like to still scored some sweet walls. too fine.

Posted by: ck at August 6, 2004 10:34 AM

wasn't it Wardo who dominated Big Rock last winter, talked smack to some boogies, etc and then we he returned the next morning to check it, about 6 boogies jumped him in the lot with bats. crazy. like you said "he doesn't mind fighting"

Posted by: at August 6, 2004 10:45 AM

thanks for the reviews j.o.c. I enjoyed reading..

yo..

First signs of El Nino arise in the Pacific Ocean

Posted by: e at August 6, 2004 10:45 AM

so are tatoos personal art?

or do you get them to look cool?

i'm confused?

if i get in to a fight and take off my shirt and blaze my tatts should the other guy back down?

Posted by: at August 6, 2004 10:57 AM

spencer skipper from the big island beat the shit out of wardo a few years ago at pipe after repeated snakings.

Posted by: bbr at August 6, 2004 11:17 AM

damn boogers...will they never know their place?


just kidding..... ;)

Posted by: wardo_the_snake at August 6, 2004 11:22 AM

i had the pleasure of trading waves with pre- tattoed archy long ago at right hander on maui. much of the ruling class on maui was old skool so to see archy thowing down state of the art lines that day stuck in many's minds as it raised the bar for the local dominators that winter. he was totally chill for a ripper of the highest order.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at August 6, 2004 11:36 AM

Wasn't el nino supposed to happen last year, also? In the video Where's Wardo the show him fighting someone and Wardo kicks him in the head.. I dunno if it's Skipper though. Hey bbr, while I was on Oahu a few weeks back, you know who was out there on a surfboard, and ripping at that.. Jeff Hubbard. e, I saw pictures of that guy who got beat down after he refused to come at the contest.. I think they had pictures on that shores crew website.

Posted by: at August 6, 2004 11:38 AM

SF contest circuit, is there such a thing?

the who's who for future surf movie based on North Ocean Beach, who rips in SF?????? and can hold themselves in a 40 plus minute vid?


Has anyone checked out Thomas Campbell's new vid?

Posted by: oz at August 6, 2004 11:38 AM

SF contest circuit, is there such a thing?

the who's who for future surf movie based on North Ocean Beach, who rips in SF?????? and can hold themselves in a 40 plus minute vid?


Has anyone checked out Thomas Campbell's new vid?

Posted by: oz at August 6, 2004 11:38 AM

Fun!!!

http://cdip.ucsd.edu/models/socal_now.gif

At least the skateboardin' hills around here haven't gone flat too.

Posted by: Hb at August 6, 2004 11:41 AM

e: want to echo the praise for the surfer reviews. i especially appreciate the video cross-referencing - perfect guide for my efforts to build up my library.

B.A.S.E. was a great read too, thanks mucho for that. got any previews for us on the content plans for the next issue?

Posted by: loon at August 6, 2004 11:42 AM

I gotta pipe in on these surfers cause I've crossed all three of them from time to time part timing in kauai and san clemente.
1)complete a**hole blockhead in the water around kauai. The guy busted on a friend for paddling to close to him.
2 Wardo, mental surfing but only reason he hasn't made tour is his mentioned IQ.
3)Archy, mental as well, see him in socal going mental, wrestling w/ serious demons that have plaqued his talent for years and still kills it.

Posted by: p at August 6, 2004 11:48 AM

archy kills the shit out of it.

i remember seeing him doing these turns one after the other, top to bottom on this long right at malibu i just remember seeing the back of the wave explode every second or so, like really explode

chris ward broke the fins off of a friend of mines board at lowers one time.

http://www.punto.it/img/spaziofoto/space7/106675/ImmG_ermurena_21071476455.jpg

Posted by: bagel at August 6, 2004 11:56 AM

archy kills the shit out of it.

i remember seeing him doing these turns one after the other, top to bottom on this long right at malibu i just remember seeing the back of the wave explode every second or so, like really explode

chris ward broke the fins off of a friend of mines board at lowers one time.

yay friday

Posted by: bagel at August 6, 2004 11:57 AM

Posted by: bagel at August 6, 2004 12:04 PM

Ortega is currently being re-paved...

Posted by: blakestah at August 6, 2004 12:05 PM

IT'S FRIDAY!!

Posted by: j at August 6, 2004 12:15 PM

blakestah! that's huge news!! wow!!

Posted by: e at August 6, 2004 12:21 PM


well, kids, made it to the beast coast. after a fun long ass ride from cali to cambridge, i'm heah, welcomed by none other than hurricane a-lex. some people sounded disappointed, but after the left coast flatness we've had all summer, i was stoked to get chest high glass in new england. i met some sf surfers, a new crue...

Posted by: gvibe7 at August 6, 2004 12:36 PM

OB: Totally rideable!! Totally appealing!!
1-3 feet, huge random variations of onshore velocity and swinging from fog to sun and back. If you've ever skied powder in the pouring rain then you know what the surf feels like today. Like sludge skis, a 200 lb board or weight the equivalent of a dead body - not yours yet - is the best bet. Being pissed off, stubborn, and in dire need of total folly also helps. There is no room for a longboard to rest between bumps, so when you catch that huge set, dig the fins into one wave and slap the nose on top of the other, pray they're going to go in the same direction [ highly unlikely ] and enjoy the sound of the onshores whistling through the trough underneath while you putt-putt down the, uh, line, or whatever. After about a dozen of these, walk out and again brag to your neighbor about missing the epic session. Today's essential surf report is 110% accurate and accumulated through nitpicking scientific study, I am utterly mortified to admit. Gah. Happy Friday,

Posted by: s.s.sharkbait at August 6, 2004 12:42 PM

nice one 'bait!

Posted by: e at August 6, 2004 12:45 PM

you rule s.s. sharkbait!

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at August 6, 2004 12:49 PM

Rick James.. RIP

Posted by: superfreak at August 6, 2004 12:57 PM

Confirming Sharkbait's "barely rideable yet fun" report. When I left at 6:40, there were two dudes going in at Pacheco. Both their boards were short by about two feet for the conditions. If I had gone down on the Titanic, and their boards were flotsom, I wouldn't even bother grabbing on to them.

No shark sighting today, but there were at least a dozen crabs running around the surf. At the risk of exaggerating, these crabs were the size of small German automobiles and I swear they were pinching right at me.

"You know the thing about a crab, he's got... lifeless eyes, black eyes, like a doll's eye. When he comes at ya, doesn't seem to be livin'. Until he pinches ya and those black eyes roll over white. And then, ah then you hear that terrible high pitch screamin' and the ocean turns red and spite of all the poundin' and the hollerin' they all come in and rip you to pieces."

Posted by: Andrew on 44th at August 6, 2004 01:10 PM

Good song for today's conditions. If you're at work, turn your volume ALL the way up.
http://www.fragglerocker.com/media/audio/Theme_(Original).mp3

Posted by: Ian at August 6, 2004 01:19 PM

"...like a doll's eye"

Posted by: Jack at August 6, 2004 01:23 PM

Andrew, 'twas that you south of where those 2 folks were? Also spied another guy farther north. I must have gone out right after you went in. fyi those 2 peeps didn't hang around very long!

Open Water...

Posted by: 'bait at August 6, 2004 01:31 PM

J, stop posting picks of my local spot! I don't want anyone to know that you need to hit the beer bong prior to surfing this secret spot along Highway 1.

To those of you that don't know, J is basically an alcoholic. He is just trying to cope with the responsibility of making those around him convert to the same devilish ways.

If he offers you a beer bong prior to paddling out at Linda Marginal, DON'T DO IT!

Posted by: Kaiser at August 6, 2004 01:43 PM

secrets out....motherf...er....

Posted by: j at August 6, 2004 01:59 PM

I like how even the dog seems like he's waiting in the line for the bong to come his way.

Posted by: Ian at August 6, 2004 02:00 PM

Why is the industry designed to keep the artist in debt
And why them dudes ain't ridin' if they're part of your set
And why they never get it poppin' but they party to death
Yea, and why they gon give you life for a murder
Turn around only give you eight months for a burner, it's goin down
Why they sellin' brotha's CD's for under a dime
If it's all love daddy why you come wit your nine
Why my brotha's ain't get that cake
Why is a brother up North better than Jordan
That ain't get that break
Why you ain't stackin' instead of tryin' to be fly
Why is rattin' at an all time high
Why are you even alive
Why they kill Tupac n' Chris
Why at the bar you ain't take straight shots instead of poppin' Criss
Why OB just been crap in the summer
Why the offshores never stop it's a bummer
Why did Kobe have to hit that raw
Why he kiss that whore instaed of just get a hummer
Why

Posted by: J-adakiss at August 6, 2004 02:03 PM

dude...that dog drinks more beer than her owner, and trips people for full plates of kalua pig!!

Posted by: j at August 6, 2004 02:05 PM

i think i saw Jada at kelly's on tuesday after work. motherfucker got any wave he wanted.

Posted by: bbr at August 6, 2004 02:13 PM

Hey Kids-
A quick question for any shapers in the blog...I recentley snapped the nose of my 7'0 at a shallow beach break after a minor closeout. I think that the board isn't that durable. Would it be a good idea to throw on another layer of glass over the entire board to give it some more strength or could that make the board too heavy? Any feedback would be appreciated.

Fleece Out

Posted by: Phunski at August 6, 2004 02:16 PM

googled beer bong ...what did I find ...

bong girl ...ya baby

Posted by: off da lip at August 6, 2004 02:31 PM

yo, hit that right there

HE'S GON' DO ONE!!
HE'S GON' DO ONE!!!

Posted by: frank at August 6, 2004 02:42 PM

Young master shark baiter;

Twas not I in the water the same time as the others. I was walking off the beach when I saw them stretching, and they had just stepped in when I left. I was on the yellow long board in the tattered blue/black wetsuit. I was also the one screaming like a teenage girl at a EnSynch show when I found myself surrounded by crabs. Seriously, I aint afraid of one or two crabs, but when they call out the whole crustcean posse, I take it seriously.

Posted by: Andrew on 44th at August 6, 2004 02:51 PM

you guys drink beer and smoke pot!

so fucking coool!

Posted by: at August 6, 2004 03:04 PM

Everything has beauty, but not everyone sees it.

Posted by: confucius at August 6, 2004 03:18 PM

it is now safe to return to the water. please pick up some butter on your way home.

Posted by: boilin' h20 at August 6, 2004 03:20 PM

south africa

Posted by: e at August 6, 2004 03:20 PM

yes please

Posted by: e at August 6, 2004 03:22 PM

that's me with my mouth open!

Posted by: stoked at August 6, 2004 03:24 PM

Posted by: e at August 6, 2004 03:27 PM

Posted by: at August 6, 2004 03:29 PM

yo niceness hope y'all score and remember sssshhhhhh don't tell. groove out and rock on.

ps:phunski, your kidding, right?

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at August 6, 2004 03:33 PM

Quoting Quint's monolouge from Jaws inspired me to look up the USS Indianapolis. I haven't seen the movie "Open Water" but the two interviews below make you realize it was true story for a couple hundred 18 and 19 year old kids just about 60 years ago.

http://www.ussindianapolis.org/woody.htm

http://www.history.navy.mil/faqs/faq30-5.htm

Posted by: Andrew on 44th at August 6, 2004 04:12 PM

here's to swimmin' with bow-legged women

Posted by: cadaver at August 6, 2004 04:23 PM

hey e - where'd you get the first of those two pics of the long left? because. like. I took that pic. seriously. (Fiji in 2002 if you're interested).

see:

www.cloudbreak.com/Fiji2002/Photos/Waves/paddlingout.htm

Joe

Posted by: Joe at August 6, 2004 04:37 PM

word. that's crazy joe.. sorry.. i didn't mean to steal your photos or anything.. i found them here

http://www.frigatesreef.com

sick pics Joe!! that wave looks insane!!

Posted by: e at August 6, 2004 04:45 PM

i should've known that was Cloudbreak. Insane photos Joe!

Posted by: e at August 6, 2004 04:48 PM

Lefts and hot girls. Damn, nice posts y'all.

Sharkbait, anyone ever call you Master Bait?

Bad joke, but I had to. Kinda made me giggle a little bit. Maybe that is because it is 5:00 and its Friday.

Alright, I need a wave. Just a little one will do. Nothing big, nothing too glassy, just a little something to tide me over until.....

See ya all Sunday!

Posted by: Kaiser at August 6, 2004 05:03 PM

norcal

Posted by: at August 6, 2004 05:20 PM

http://www.sihe.ac.uk/sihe/slts/slts/BASBM.htm

Posted by: j at August 6, 2004 05:39 PM

ah - picture mystery solved. I sent some of the pics to a NZ guy I met in Fiji who ended up managing one of the surf camps on Yanuca island (it has since closed). the pics are all Frigates (not cloudbreak, despite the URL), including the one with the boatman in the foreground. glassy, 12 feet+ and nobody but me out that day. and I was only out for 40 mins coz I got completely crushed, swept through the reef and staggered into the boat to find the boatman asleep. too heavy. too remote. nobody around. decided I'd rather stay alive. still. got a nice pic.

no worries at all about using it, by the way - I was just kind of amazed to see it show up.

Posted by: Joe at August 6, 2004 07:35 PM

WavesandAssizallderiz..
Now SHUTUP ALL YOUZ!
p.s. Friend of Agnes. 'Wohewers all the surfahs?'

Posted by: Sloppy Kiss Agnes Friday at August 6, 2004 07:55 PM

Thomasenchilada is my whiteyhome boy from way back from [in a booming voice] The Big Valley. WAZ gunna send out the email, yo', two weeks ago but thought otherwise. Dime a dozen these hipsters. Soon you will be standing at the threshold and hating what you were. ARE.
Sprout is probably cool if you dig Tmos but whatever, that MB crowd is kinda burned. How good are you at longboarding? If you can't longboard you suck. Smokes. Ride. Sprout.

Twister again at MOMA - best thing to happen since Basquait or freaking Warhol. Who would have believed it?!
This here eblog is looking to me a lot like a hyped out surf industry orgy kiss ass festival of SUCK ME and NICENESS seems to like to kiss this ass. So I say get your integrity back and fucking WAIT FOR THE GODDAMNED WAVES TO COME. SURF.... AND THEN SHUT THE HELL UP AND MOVE ON.

Hi. BV

Posted by: Agnes at August 6, 2004 08:06 PM

Kaiser is a pig. Sharky, forgive us for lovin' him. I'm in SC- got skunked this morning and ended up doing yard work. Shoot me now or send us a swell.

Posted by: Bruce at August 6, 2004 09:50 PM

you tellim, bad vibe

Posted by: cadaver at August 6, 2004 10:21 PM

Agnes, I mean.

Posted by: cadaver at August 6, 2004 10:23 PM

cadaver - no clue what that pic is, but hilarious nonetheless.

went to the garage and my longboard told me to F off she ain't gettin wet. i asked my shorter boards what's up with the attitude and they just gave me the cold shoulder. hmmm...maybe i get caught up around the house instead today.

Posted by: j at August 7, 2004 08:24 AM

IT'S SAAAATURDAY!

Posted by: j at August 7, 2004 08:25 AM

Blakestah summarizes the surf for summer 2004:

"Aug 7 early. Winds light. Swell in, almost 3 ft 9 sec from 290 deg, I've never gotten so excited about such a little swell."

Damn, 3 ft at 9... if it was a weekday, you'd have to take the day off.

Posted by: dano at August 7, 2004 01:26 PM

As I was surfing today, the guy next to me turned to me and said

"Now I remember why I used to take days off work to surf."

If you didn't get it, you missed it.

Posted by: blakestah at August 7, 2004 01:35 PM

If you really want to know what that pic is J, click on my name below it.

Waves-- FINALLY. I'm glad that foul little streak is over..

Posted by: cadaver at August 7, 2004 04:31 PM

No waves today or tomorrow. Please stay home and work on your crocheting. If you start now, you can have a pot holder done by Monday.

There were about 50 people in the line up at one point, but they cleared out as the tide rose. Everyone was in a good mood. I made the mistake of riding a wave all the way to the beach, where I stepped in a red rock that jumped at my face with pinchers flaring. I swear he was laying in wait for me. I need to start taking precations. Tomorrow I'm wearing two wetsuits.

Posted by: Andrew on 44th at August 7, 2004 05:06 PM

Oops, made a mistake of heading to LM. Hadn't been there for quite a while. Started off empty, surfing the north side by myself. When I left, there was about 50 or more people (but mostly clustered in the center). And does anybody hold onto their board any more?

Has it always been this way and I forgot or has it gotten worse lately?

Posted by: Nate at August 7, 2004 05:19 PM

Glad to meet you, Nate, and, er, sorry about the board!

(oops)

Posted by: Klooless at August 7, 2004 05:48 PM

Andrew, I get about 4-5 toe-pinching incidents per year, all late August/early September. OTOH, they're good eating.

WRT our kind niceness state beach in San Mateo County, there were, I think two factors. Factor number one is surf camp. This camp trained a dozen-plus people each week, and their surf etiquette, while not being horrible, was not great either. And, they all went to Pacifica.

The other factor is an increase in surfing in the Bay Area period. I recall quite distinctly the August of the last El Nino - surf was good, beach was EMPTY. That was 7 years ago. Now, we get a semi-respectable smaller day in August, and its packed. There's a lot more people out there - and crowds will triple by early october.

Posted by: blakestah at August 7, 2004 08:06 PM

Who was the agro piece of shit dropping in on me and all my friends at a cove today? Learn some respect you grumpy asshole. Dont take it out on us you live in a shitbox and have a small-penis complex. I hope you read this. dick.

Posted by: at August 8, 2004 12:05 AM

Hey, sorry about all those drop-ins! And I wasn't angry, though I did have a bit of gas . . .

Wait . . . OB isn't a cove! Whew!

Posted by: Klooless at August 8, 2004 11:16 AM

Hehe Klooless. blakestah, ah yeah, I noticed a car pull up with like 12 foam boards on top and people waiting in the parking lot as I was leaving (around 9:30). I'm not trying to be negative, and I had a pretty good time. It's just that the crowds were unbelievable and much much less experienced. Then again, there were only about 10 people max catching waves. The rest were sorta floating obstacles.

Speaking of that, say you're lined up at the peak and right in the path of your drop someone is paddling out. They're kinda sideways and hard to avoid. I sometimes will drop but angle a bit to go around them. Other times I just pull back if I think I can't avoid them. What is the way to handle this?

If I'm sitting inside and see someone going for a peak that's going to break outside where they are, I paddle towards where the peak is starting to break and yell for them to go for it before diving udner the whitewater. If someone is experienced enough to be in the right spot, they can usually make a drop within 8 feet of someone else and not hit them (or turn the wrong way on the wave). This kinda thing only seems to happen at LM.

I was just thinking today about one of my favorite days surfing. I was out Nov. 27, 2002 and it was sunny and about 12-14 ft. I can't surf waves that big and didn't have the board for it but paddled out just to check it out. Unbelievable. Just the feeling of paddling up up up a face and then cresting over the top and then dropping a few feet and then paddling _down_ the back of the wave. And people were going off.. so fast. There was no talking, no messing around, no snaking, just surfing.

It was the best day ever, until I broke my finger when my board hit it paddling in through the shore break. There was another guy in a wetsuit in the ER with a shoulder out of socket. :)

Posted by: Nate at August 8, 2004 12:46 PM

Nate, see
http://www.keck.ucsf.edu/~dblake/obnov272002.wmv

I surfed with the guys in the last 4 waves - and then shot video of them after I got out. I got one of the best beach waves I've ever gotten that mornint. Wave faces, at that peak, were 20 ft plus.

Posted by: blakestah at August 8, 2004 05:23 PM

oh man, the last 15 seconds of that video.... i'd love to hear the guy in that last wipeout describe it.


Posted by: wrybread at August 8, 2004 11:26 PM

Just finished a good surf book, Tapping The Source, recommended, fun trashy read with lots of good Huntington Beach surf scene stuff.

And for anyone who wants to see Open Water without leaving the hosue:
http://www.centraldownload.org/


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