E's Surf Report

hickory dickory dock
it really sucks to be back at work again

God damn, E. I'm about to move out of the area. Away from the ocean for good. Your little poem brought tears to the Pimp's eye.

This is going to be hard.

Keep pimpin'in middle america 04.

egp

El Topeka Pimp?

This is what surfpulse saw at the beach this morning, probably right around the time e was scoring his third barrel:

The surf dropped. Set waves are averaging waist high with some chest high waves coming through occasionally. Overall wave quality is poor. It's the same story again today: Moderate south winds and small, junky waves. The weather is cool, overcast, and foggy at the coast.

wtf? either someone needs more love from the wife or e's on e

Excuse my prose, but . . . Yow! Sounds like OB was serving it up! This morning was also fun a short drive away; I had a break all to myself as the handful of others there hovered together over by the channel. Inconsistent, not very big, but a generous smattering of glassy, long rights with enough push for me to work on turning up and down the face without stalling out. Yesterday morning early was even better (bigger, but still shapely) at the same beach, but a lot more crowded. I'm liking July!

surfed all three days, saturday in SC and sunday and monday at OB. lots of fun to be had out there.

saturday night i was in a cab headed to north beach to watch the fireworks at some rooftop party. we piled into this ghetto looking cab and when we told the driver where we were headed, he said, "awww shit, don't know if my car can make it over the union st. hill." clearly the guy should have stuck to his instincts because just after making it over the hill the thing is smoking like a freaking chimney. we keep going another 4 or 5 blocks and some pedestrian yells out "your cab is on fire". the guy pulls over, all 5 of us jump out and next thing we know the thing is in flames. seriously 5 foot flames coming out the top. fire truck, cop cars, tons of onlookers. it was completely insane. luckily the thing didn't blow up while we were in it.

e's not on e

The sea surface and winds were much more rideable this morning than the past few days. In particular, the south winds weren't as bad.

Also, e's memories of Centro are fading...

56 days till September.

I took a surfing camping trip to SoCal this 4 day for me weekend. Ended up I neither surfed nor camped. No waves and no available campsites. No problem. My wife and I hung out in Huntington Beach and points both north and South - La Jolla to Santa Barbara.

There is a spot that's not so secret below Big Sur that was dealing out some nice head high waves with no wind at all. But by the time I got to it, darkness was approaching and I wanted to get to Monterey before the cliffs turned black.

Anyway, we had a good time running with plan B.

sounds like a sweet sesh full o' pos stoke, e! nice. as for me, i opted for a much-needed sleep-in. after spending the weekend driving and surfing (small, but fun conditions) up and down the coast from SC to SLO back to SF, i was (happily) spent! if only every weekend could be a long weekend! hmmm...that seems like a campaign promise i could support: "If elected, I promise to make every weekend a long-weekend!" ; )

Yesterday waz suprisingly fun in the slot. Very inconsistent but a few head high waves rolling through. Lostland was also working on Sunday.

Mark Goin is shaping me a new phish and Vice B. will glass it. Red to orange fade top and bottom. Suppose it will be magic and make me surf like Ethan?

Ain't this a purty picture taken by my nephew? I love when a lip looks like crystal.

Saw "Fahrenheit 9/11" then immediately went out to clear my head and surfed O.Beast last night from 7:45 until dark. 5 guys out at the Cove, chest to head high bumps, light winds, dreary fog, semi-smooth windswell bowls over a nicely formed sandbar. When I got out at about 9pm, I knew it would be good this morning.

The axiom "much better than it looked from the beach" -- this time of year, it's going to happen more than you think.

MM

Who is this guy? Anyone know him? I heard he goes "cliff lizard" at the Lane a lot....

As for me, I got a decent little session in last night after sitting in my car for like 7 hours. Went straight from the highway to the parking lot, suited up and stretched out a bit. Felt good....

Looks like we at least have some wind swell on tap of the week. And the winds, being a bit more friendly then the last few weeks. Sooooo, I should be seeing some peeps in the water here and there this week.

Anyone else get out this morning?

e, glad your stoke for the local waves is back in full effect. i scored a couple of long sessions worth of fun peaky windswell at nearby breaks this weekend too.

Kaiser- you know I was friggin' starving for content to put my fat-gut-skinny-leg-sunburned-balding-head picture on the site. I look at my surfing and hear Marlon Brando's voice from Apocalypse Now: "The horror! The horror!" Unfortunately, my nephew missed the shot of me landing the double 360 rail grab aerial.

Are we goin' to the hush-hush secret spot south of town after work or will the wind be on it? Here lizard, lizard, lizard!

drove down the coast friday and back up on sat, and surfed 3x over the long weekend. from what i saw and heard conditions seemed to be best thoughout san mateo -- winds there were more slack than in SF & SCruz, and it was head high+ at at least one SM spot on sunday (but dropped off a lot by mon pm).

saturday provided the biggest highlights for me -- my first-ever surf in the carmel area, where some small but super-glassy beach break barrels were being served. i managed to insert myself into sereral of these more adeptly than ever before. one left was especially memorable, everything came together for me: saw a peak taking shape and calculated that i was in perfect position to make the left. spun, stroked a few aggressive paddles, quick-dropped & dug a turn up the face and back around on a speedy line down the forming wall, ducked as the lip started to pitch, & was quickly covered, then torn asunder - but not before hearing that great engulfing sound, and seeing the almond-shaped opening lingering in the distance.

i swallowed about a cup of seawater on a prior attempt at making a backside barrel. i think the water got in there because that my mouth was agape in astonishment. had me feeling giddy as i paddled back out for more, chuckling aloud, no one within earshot.

this is not to say that conditions were so epic down there -- i think that i just finally got everything in sync, and damn, it felt great.

Rummy, representin' the West siiide.

beauty in the eye of the beholder....

or is that beer-holder?

greets to all...the 4th in the land of new parking
lots and pavement was fun and rather nice sized.
some big ol closeouts rolling through.
and a few peaks to be had. lots of duck diving practice
as i reflected on 50 some odd days to september......
also nice to feel some real speed.

OB WAS really choice this a.m. although now me window
is whistling again (west facing leaky window on hilltop
in the richmond dist. precludes all surf checks)

local surf lick at four star wednesday night....thanks for the
post blakestah.

see ya'll early manana hopefully.
cheers.

Ah, they little "secret" spot down south is fighting right now.

I think it can, I think it can.......

Can it survive until after work? Can we hold out hope? Only time will tell.

loon...nice description of a sweet sounding encounter with Mr. Almond! congrats, amigo!

egp - waddya mean ..."Away from the ocean for good." !!? I'm truly sorry to hear that. What brings you to make this drastic move?
I was hoping to run into you last Friday afternoon. I got a few down your way - tiny, but fun. A few youngsters in the water, all with friendly attitudes. Must be the grey in my beard, plus I gave up lots of waves. Wherever you're headed, I hope it's for the best.
All our summertime travel plans have been cancelled in favor of a Christmas getaway. blakestah - if you happen to run into Max, mum's the word - he hasn't been clued in yet.

Word all. Well, I'm writing from home much sooner than anticipated. Came home 10 days early because some kgnarley "Paritonsillar Abscess" infection I got in my throat. I was stuck in the ER for two days on Oahu while some dumb shit doctor tried poking it with a needle only to say "oops, guess I can't pop it, sorry." Well I had fun while I was there. Surfed Kaiser's basically everyday and met some very cool people. Feels good to be home, but still can't surf. Can't wait to get in the water!

Ian! that sucks homie.. seems like you have a positive attitude about it though, and that's huge! speedy recovery to ya! I still think you should have won that aussie accent contest at the surf movie night. that was a rip.

egp - yeah man.. bummer that you're moving away from mamma ocean. who's gonna puff me down when i hit the Jetty now??

loon - barrels.. mmmmm!!

hee hee watchyourback Bruce, you're famous now!

Very Kooky Tech Question [ do forgive ]: I'm having trouble making drops. I know a huge % of working drops is being in the right spot, something I'm terrible at but pursuing of course. fyi *balancing* on the board, once I stand up, is the one freaking thing I can do so that's not the problem. I seem to either pop up faaar too late, too early and miss the entire wave, or pop up at what seems to be the right moment and biff over the top. Aside from my find-the-working-peak issue, I've been trying to deliberately think about firmly planting my weight and feet on the back of the board, over the fins so they'll dig in, but thinking and doing are 2 different things. I figure I'll get it eventually if I continue being this relentless, but considering I make maybe 1 in 15-20 drops at OB this is starting to build up almost too much character ;) Oh yes aside from the front yard I do hop into relatively gentler breaks too. Any additional tips or advice or jokes would be most welcome. Thanks folks!

no OB report, out of town...

ss -- for me it seemed like repetition was more important than anything else on making drops. but i do notice that i feel more drop-ready out there when i feel limber/strong in my lower midsection, and am able to concentrate on that area being the primary place where my body connects to the board (as opposed to when i feel a body-board connction up near my chest). my underlying theory about that is that when i don't have my weight firmly concentrated in the lower abs, i wind up making subtle but significant little shifts in weighting, and when i do so the center of balance moves forward & backward too much, and that disrupts planing, which disrupts the drop, and so on ... hope that makes sense/helps ... ??

s.s.
Acknowledging is always the first step to recovery

1. always take an extra paddle stroke even when you think you got it.

2. practice hopping up to your feet on your surfboard by removing the fins and laying your board down on top of some cushions etc. (kids please get you mom's permission before doing this in the house). if your worried about pressure dings. take off your heels.

3. Visualize, visualize, visualize. Enjoy!

fanning got hurt while surfing in Indo (hamstring tear), might be out the next few contests

sharkbait, the key, for me, is watching the board tilt. The nose of the board should remain just above the water, throughout the entire standing process. The process of standing should not tilt the board backward or forward. I don't feel like I pop up as much as I suck my front foot under me and rise to standing.

Do this at the gentler breaks. Learning to make drops at OB could be very frustrating.

'bait.. the instant you feel the wave propel you without paddling, stand up. look ahead to where you want to go. If you feel that you're consistently taking off too late, overcorrect the next time and stand up earlier that you think you need to. Like loon said it's a repetitive process that takes thousands of individual refinements to master. Don't be discouraged. It also might help to keep your knees bent and stay low over your board. The take-off is without doubt the most pivotal move in anyone's surfing repetoir, yet it gets cut out of most surf vids! I always wished they would show more take-offs in the vids, including the preparatory positioning, paddling and such.

One less competitor for Lance in the Tour after today. More punishment will be delt out tomorrow. A small south was in the water today offering some fun-sized driblets... and the water is still way too cold. Hey, only 56 days! Rad.

damn all this talk about taking off made me think way back to the days of learning to surf. I remember learning to take off on a shortboard being a very frustrating experience. But once you get it...kind of like riding a bike...muscle memory. That being said, am I the only one who, on occasion, completely kooks out on the most routine of take-off's? Usually after being out of the water for a stretch.

Bait..get on the floor and practice poping-up and getting you feet under you in one fluid, balanced motion (like 3to5 said). Do it over and over again. And I also agree with the extra paddle stroke. Almost always take one more than your brain thinks you need, commit to that wave!!!!

My two cents on the take-off thing. I've found that especially on the bigger days it pays to jump up even a little earlier than you might think. Why? Stability and Momentum.

Stability - I've found that things are happening so fast that if I wait til things are a sure bet, then I'm stairing down a 6'-10' vertical (that actually looks 'over' vertical) face, and that's it's much easier to negotiate that steep and edgy situation from the standing position vs. getting to a standing position.

Momentum - I'm not sure if it's just me, but I swear that often the motion of jumping to my feet actually propels me forward and 'gets me over the hump" ...so to speak.

ching!

jdz, you're not alone....that, or when there are massive lulls between sets i always seem to get too eager to get on the first thing that rolls thru and mess it up somehow. i guess that's what keeps it fun.

Sharky- couple other hints with a disclaimer. Some of this slightly contradicts what Blakestah said, he knows what he's talking about, and I suck on late drops.

Some guys I know who are good paddle rather far forward on their board- their head and shoulders are held very high which looks cool and keeps the center of gravity ever so slightly further back. As they dig over the top, their heads come down and that shifts the weight slightly forward; i.e., get down the face, board!

The other trick someone suggested is to extend your arms rapidly as you get up, basically shifting the center of gravity by adding force. Sounds bogus, but since I heard that I've noticed some better surfers using the technique.

Dr. Blakestah- please correct me if this BS. There is that moment when you're on a teeter-totter and need to start south, right?

The "extra stroke/paddle" advice is dope true. The rest comes down to how quickly you can get to your feet.

thoughts on the "pop up" or take off....

i have found it to be helpful in terms of
stability (jack) to think of where the hands
are on the rails of the board and the feet/
rest of the body are then transferred to that point.
so that AS you push up off the deck the feet
are coming up from the tail area to that point
where the hands were and up you go......
and to do this in ONE fluid motion....
not necessarily super fast just fluid.

this technique keeps the board stable and
allows the changes that need to made as to
the specifics of the wave to be made with the
feet once you have stood up.

there's my two pennies hope it helps someone.

why stand up at all?

LOL - Bagel, it must be so fun to get drunk with you. You and a couple others on this board are hilarious mother fuckers.

So funny!

yeah.. i can vouch for Bagel being rad to get stony with..

awww yeah!!

by stony i of course mean mulling over the myriad stones in the VFWs parking lot. yup.

how do I add that extra stroke on my no paddle takeoffs?

sharky....paddling is important but you don't catch waves by paddling in.

you paddle to the spot where gravity takes over.

waves move through the ocean at varying speeds and none of them come through as slow as we paddle.

so it's position, paddling just to get the board moving with the swell to put you in the spot where you can drop down......

s.s., besides just time in the water (lots of it needed to learn to shortboard), speed is also key. Paddling HARD makes entry a lot easier. Oh, and on small days especially, you pretty much need to be pointed sideways when standing up to make sections. Now I am sure that we all have supply you with way too much information.

Tom is a wise guy... erh, wise man. Listen to him.

commit to the pit!

fade into that shit!

into the bowl with your soul.

i did .

years ago and it's never been the same since

45 stitches total, multiple hematomas and thousands of fin free drops

what need have i for that
what need have i for this
i am dancing at the feet of my lord
all is bliss
all is bliss

- Shakti

Anyone see the ocean in the last hour? Winds, I need wind reports.

What blows here may not blow there? Ah, yes. I need to go surfing for sure. Just a matter of how much my SUV is going to guzzle down to get me there.

we need a caption contest, how about using this picture?

How 'bout: "This is what we did to them Iraqis back in '04...Hun, take a picture...."

you guys ROCK, thank you!

Already messed with popping up a LOT earlier than I used to...interesting to experiment...

A while back I had a few dreams about planing down the face of the wave. A week later I started planing...it felt exactly like the dream. Now I just need to dream about making drops!

Best for Ian, good luck eg pimp

'even in his old age macauley could recall the games he and michael used to play'

leaning forward as the wave picks you up makes life a lot easier

this, in reality, is keeping your board level with respect to the water. As the wave picks you up, the slope of the water changes, and if you lean forward you can catch the wave more easily. You can watchb boogie boarders do this. They typically shift their weight forward as they start planing to force the board down the wave.

Balancing throughout this process on a surfboard is the hard part.

Riding coffee table boards and doing no-paddle take-offs is fun, it is more challenging on a 6'3", but still possible.

As to why stand up at all???? When I started riding waves there was no such thing as a boogie board. We rode little styrofoam boards covered with some sort of fabric. They were surfboard shaped, and we stood on them. We also skimboarded on them, rode them on our bellies, got barreled, and spent every waking minute of the summer in the ocean. However, the pecking order was clear. You got older, better, and got a surfboard. The styrofoam boards were so clearly inferior to surfboards that no one wanted to stay on one. The only direction to go was to surfing, and that meant you stood up.

I understand not everyone learned to surf the same way, but in the 70s the direction was clear. You rode waves in other ways to get you experienced enough to ride a surfboard.

Caption 1: Welcome to the church of oyster divers.

Caption 2: I've really never done this before but I'm curious.

J: We want more Gumby photos!

E: You need to listen to the other Donovan- Teaser and the Fire Cat may be a good fit. Seriously sweet hippie music. Trust me on this. Works well with da' girls, too.

I had one of the two-stroke take offs this weekend and it's the best thing in the entire world, don't you think? Line up right, whip around, scoop a couple of pints of water and you're in. Seriously fun. Even the losers get lucky sometimes.

dano - about 10 years ago I raced with/against Floyd Landis. He started racing at maybe 15 or 16, got his butt kicked for a year. The next year he was as good as the best expert racers. The next year he won all the small-change off-road races. Two years later he was riding pro road.

It's cool to watch him race in the tour now, even if the best he can do is ferry water bottles to the top team riders.

Nice blakestah. You still ride? I'm more stoked on riding my bike than surfing, especially during the summer lull. 2 foot windslop day after every f_ing day doesn't quite tickle the senses anymore. Pulling a 100+ miles with plenty of climbing is much more to my liking.

Its about time to start the September Countdown Clock. Houston we are go for launch!

Yeah September! http://www.procyclingtour.com/race_overview.cfm/race_id/13

Personally, I cant wait 'till Feb, Mar, Apr, May for some secret sandbars if you know what I mean.

September is kinda small but glassier, Oct is better, November best, December great, January great.

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