No sub 6:00 a.m. alarm blarring some crap-ass, half-static, motown jam in my ear. No "night before" nervous anticipation of the morning surf. No packing preparation needed to make sure I have gear for work. Just a calm, mellowness coupled with dull, sore shoulders and back muscles. First time in a very long time that I can recall having sore legs from surfing. Mentally and physically it is great to feel sore and satisfied from the surfing perspective.
After surfing 8 sessions in the last 5 days, I forced myself to take a day off today. For me, I find it nice to seperate and distance myself from surfing sometimes. Recharge. Rejuvenate. Refuel. Then Relapse..... Ha.... Always love to relapse! Totally appropriate word there. Because it is a drug, an addiction of sorts. If it gets you, it gets you good. If you understand this, you know what I am talking about.
Surf Report: Alright, enough of that, here is the deal out there today and some things to think about:
Bodega Bay Bouy wind: 25 kts from the NW
SF Bouy wind: 15 kts from the NW
HMB Bouy wind: 10 kts from the NNW
(you get the idea.......)
Swell still solid and in fact it built overnight to 7-8 ft. @ 15-17 sec. Should stick around for a few days as it decays. Head south, clog up some lineups, drop in on your brother (or sister), put a smile on your face, enjoy the sunshine! Definitely some good surf out there but it appears to be a little farther drive today, that's all.
Last thought: I was watching a program on KQED last night about Weather Underground. For those not familiar, WU was established in the same vein as the Black Panther movement and the like in the 60's. Many of these movements were in direct response to the war in Vietnam and the unsettled nature here at home at the time. A really good, educational, thought provoking program. I wasn't alive yet, so I didn't live with the turmoil of this time. Any thoughts from those more knowledgable...... Correlations to the cyclical nature of things and where we are today within this cycle........
What film is this from?