lined-up swell.. tasty waves
Stepped deep into the AM last night and then woke up early this morning but still snuck a session in before work. A beautiful morning to be outside. Minimal wind, a soothing, radiant pure blue sky, warm temperature. I drove around for a while scoping the scene and then paddled out to a semi-consistent peak with a handful of other surfers. It didn't look great from the lot, but every few minutes a family of waves would march in and peel and mush along. The shape was sub-par but i still eeked into 5 or 6 longish, down-the-line excursions. The highlight of the session was this one particular set that came in... like a gift from king neptune or something. 3 of us were sitting there picking our noses waiting for something when the tell-tale blips appeared on the horizon and we started scratching for the outside. the first wave was all warbly and gurgly.. maybe overhead and a half.. none of us took it.. then the second wave looked better.. it had that tapering character which promises peelification... so.. i spun and dug in and then the wave just scooped out and the next thing i know i'm pointed nearly strait down, taking off into a ledging, sucking bowl. Luckily the forces aligned for me and i made the drop and then shuffled down the line. After kicking out at the end of the ride i turned around to watch this immaculate, heaving, barrelling, gnarlesburg, tapering, mouth-watering wave spit and reel and churn down the line. nobody on it. gorgeous. Then the ocean went flat for 10 minutes and we all just looked at each other like, "what the fuck was that!" and.. "can we have some more please!"
soo.. the swell looks real nice.. cordoroy. Second Lot Sloat was showing it's game face, for anyone interested in a little solitary challenge.
some ponderous, circumspect articulations in yesterday's comments.. here are some highlights.
"O.K. that's IT! I'm beginning to sound like a pretentious asshole even to my OWN ears."
- jimmie
"there's more to life than just breathing, but there's also more to life than the One Singular Moment. "
- friendly
"Grubbin on some lau-lau's."
- Ian
"Curren is a total stoner."
- BVB
"Spotted a gray whale on the drive home this afternoon"
- jhmb
"My day is filled with crack addicts, gunshot wounds, screaming kids, you name it."
- welle
"ssshhhhiiieeeeetttt"
- 3to5
"dude, you've got a fuckin daaart in yoooouurrr neeeeecckkkkk"
- j
"I even have been out on days when KOOKS are getting shacked while I scrap like a crack fiend on 16th st "
- pez
"down the line, many lips to hit, tube sections."
- barney
"bunch of meat heads complaining to each other about the "Aliens" in the lineup."
- alien
"Fuck Bush!!"
- mexisurf
"inhale...exhale..i just got an ounce in the mail.."
- bagel
"Mindful breathing reminds us that WE ARE NOT OUR SITUATION. We are OURSELVES"
- jimmie
"shhhweetness!"
"glad to be of non-assistance!"
- ben
"I did plenty of trips without swell forecast planning, and mostly we sat around really bored swatting flies."
- baja expert
"Well, surf and art vocabulary are a never ending quest, but I DO know that one can have prodigious wipeouts without the practice! Some things come easy. "
- sharkbait
"gone surfing"
- tom
"Anthony's Disco"
- eric
"It is good luck that I get to take this walk, I am thankful for it. I savor it."
- lurker
"you slave away at your instrument, you learn the scales, the theory...and then you forget everything you ever learned and just play."
- charlie parker (via eg pimp)
"Try to stay sane inna de office babylon."
- luke
"When urinating, take care not to drip urine on your work pants."
- cube dweller
"brother in the lime green transworld tube be feeling some "love" - big time"
- over the falls
"Don't allow the frustrations of the inevitable plateaus of progression bog you down into a state of ennui."
- e
"Still worth checking the site despite what is setting up to be a WINDsurf spring. Already making contingency plans."
- banjo
nice wave
all i need are some tasty waves and a cool buzz..
bells... on fire!
shred
mmmmm....just had huevos rancheros for breakfast....it's not surfing, but i like to close my eyes while i eat and pretend i just had a sesh down in mexico....cerveza por favor
Posted by: j at April 14, 2004 10:49 AMBells Final probably happening today, Cube Dweller, get yer media player ready, it makes work much more fun. Hopefully they stream it, although they might not stream the final. Irons and Slates could meet again but I think Parko is so on fire at Bells and that it will be him and Irons in the semi. Tough heat right there. So it's one of those two against either slates or taj.
the WCT makes building websites in a cube much easier to swallow, as does this area to share surf stories/thoughts.
Posted by: barney at April 14, 2004 10:54 AMj - nothing like a surf sesh to wake up the appetite...careful with closing the eyes, though...when in mexico ya gotta watch for flying critters on your fork..oh, i get it, that's the purpose of the cerveza........wash 'em down
barney ..should also try cerveza to help swallow those websites in a cube ........go AI!
Posted by: montezuma's revenge at April 14, 2004 11:04 AMgo parko!
Posted by: bagel at April 14, 2004 11:05 AMgo pat!
Posted by: at April 14, 2004 11:09 AMgo shorty!
Posted by: at April 14, 2004 11:12 AMit's your birthday
Posted by: 49 cent at April 14, 2004 11:16 AME,
Some other highlights from yesterday.. sloat dishing out a hefty slice of humble pie and a scoop of punishment yesterday pm. Well accepted though and better than the cube view.
I was just poking around looking for 3to5setsof7. Didn't see him ,but did have some juice with that mouthful of pie. Fun stuff.
see ya out there.
Posted by: sf at April 14, 2004 11:19 AMheaded to southern new england tomorrow and it looks like there might be some south swell. my brother's fixin up this seventies single fin he found at a garage sale for me and my 5/4 hooded is gonna come in handy (water in the low 40's). wondering if any of you bi-coastals got secrets you're dyin to spill. i'm looking at the coastline around sakonnet pt., ri and thinking there's gotta be some potential there. we'll see.
go taj!
Posted by: steamwand at April 14, 2004 11:25 AMsteamwand.. i know BIRI pretty well.. email me if you want details and have time for the ferry ride out there.
i saw you headed out with your fish this morning.. that board looks tight!
cranial_bulge@yahoo.com
Posted by: e at April 14, 2004 11:29 AMHey Barney- what website is streaming bells?
pathetica was fun this morning, no winds, head-high sets and almost nobody out besides the pack of longboarders down at the south end. a good sesh makes the cube so much easier to deal with...
Posted by: luke at April 14, 2004 11:32 AMLerminator and I got some this morning at our favorite garbage pile. Waves were a bit more groomed then much of OB but I am sure there were some decent shoulders coming through at the beach. It looked like VFers and Slizz had a few to offer if you were in the right place at the right time. I passed as I just wasn't feeling the paddle/drift/dodge mode for the DP. Had a little right working a bit. Winds actually starting blowing offshore during the session and really cleaned things up. It seemed better around 8:00 then it did earlier as the sun make a guest visit as well. Got a few nuggs here and there. Thank god for the fish otherwise my wave count would have been tiny. Finished with a really nice right that came out of nowhere and just walled up. Started to paddle back out and decided that might be the best wave I would see all morning so I pulled the cord and got a nice belly ride to the showers.
Go Fanning! Kelly is a stud, tired of Andy, Taj is a mutant, Occy is a bull.
Posted by: Kaiser at April 14, 2004 11:33 AMif it is a straight south Newport RI will be cracking. Go to Ruggles Ave. and drive to the Ocean.
If there is a little more west in it you'll see all the newport rippers tearing up the Lighthouse in pt judith which is just south of Narragansett. All of it is on the street maps.
No food or water at either spot but neither is more than 5 mins from a 7-11
those are the two primo pt breaks and since it will be cold it will be better to paddlle up the points as opposed to duck diving required spots.
Take pictures....
Posted by: tom at April 14, 2004 11:37 AMPic of the Pt Judith light house...
http://www.nesurf.com/Pics/gal/Rhode_Island/0309_06pjudith9_074741aa.jpg
Posted by: tom at April 14, 2004 11:43 AM
Posted by: e at April 14, 2004 11:44 AMMan, I really I envy those who can get a morning surf in before work. I gotta be at my desk by 6:30 am, so that's just not happening for me.
Posted by: Jimmie at April 14, 2004 11:45 AMConsidering the conditions and the tide-times today, looks like I'll head south for the arvo sesh - doesn't look like I'll have time to head to my preferred springtime spot somewhere north of the Mason-Dixon line.
oh man....i'm on the wrong coast....pt judith would need more EAST in the swell....Been looking to the Gulf of Alaska for 8 years now so you can understand my confusion.
Posted by: tom at April 14, 2004 11:47 AMFried rice with garlic, onion, ham and pork bits. Omlette with cheedar cheese plopped on top...hot sauce on the omlette and soy on the rice.
Close to a plate lunch but not quite - not enough artery clogging gravy.
Go with the potato instead of rice for endurance - if you know what I mean.
Believe it or not this here me aboriginee actually lived on and attended a college on the east coast 81-83.
Posted by: BVB at April 14, 2004 11:53 AMSurfed tons of stuff - killer waves in ME and NH. Surfed Ruggles once - then another time spent two very cold and intense hours on the bluff in rain and sleet watching my friend surf a long ass 2-3 ft. left well inside the other side of the lighthouse from Ruggles. Me and his wife in the car - his fault - two hours is too long to leave me alone with your wife...
Beach at this hour is surfable.
common vocabulary/meta data update. last night i dreamed i was surfing mavericks and pipeline on an old burton PJ asymetrical snowboard. neon race boots and all. i don't know how i was getting into the waves. let alone my feet in the bindings, but the board worked really well. the drop at pipe was STEEP.
bummed that luke egan fell to AI in the last seconds. go occ!
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at April 14, 2004 11:56 AM3to5... :)... that's a rad dream amigo
Posted by: at April 14, 2004 12:09 PMKind of funky set up today. In-between waves were sort of fun with the 17-second infrequent sets closing out everything every 10 minutes or so. Got a few crappy waves which was disappointing, since it looked better than yesterday. Anyway, biggest trill was getting drilled by the biggest set of the day. One of those sets that just has your number and notta you can do about it. Overhead, top-to-bottom lips on the head, death grip on the board, getting cartwheeled all over the place, trying to remain calm, not knowing up from down, dumping some nice 50-degree spring upwelling down the wettie, the whole 9 yards. Good stuff. After that I was one cold pup, so bailed.
Going to mainland Mex in a couple of weeks. Just say no to upwelling.
Posted by: dano at April 14, 2004 12:20 PMOh, go Fanning or Luke or Taj or Parko or Occy. Let's have an Aussie this year.
Posted by: dano at April 14, 2004 12:23 PMany of you east coast guys know a Sean Murray? he was from boston OG into punk rock, surfing, and alterted states. i met him on Maui in 87, surfed some epic days together that year. funky cat.
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at April 14, 2004 12:24 PMAny one heading anywhere close to LA even Pismo area this weekend? I need a ride to socal anytime this weekend.
Posted by: pez at April 14, 2004 12:27 PM3to5 - sick dream! asym boards were huge back in the day, did you have the full on OP/bad boy club day glow suit to go with it?
Posted by: j at April 14, 2004 12:38 PM2004 Bells WCT
www.ripcurl.com
click on the "microsite" link.
Go to streaming and then choose your speed.
Taj deserves a homeland win and Occ can blow the roof off Bells. I am still rooting for Parko though, so fluid.
Posted by: barney at April 14, 2004 12:40 PMoccy's backhand though....
Posted by: bagel at April 14, 2004 12:55 PMwhat time does the comp start? that is quite a line-up. all the big boys. no wildcards, hardly.
Posted by: steamwand at April 14, 2004 01:00 PMmorrocco (i think)
Posted by: e at April 14, 2004 01:11 PMactually i was given one of those suits (pink) back in the day. i traded it for a pair of north face snowboard shorts (another hilarious 80's product) and a pair of indy 159's and some 92a oj's.
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at April 14, 2004 01:30 PMhave ya'll seen this painting to be unveiled
formally on saturday in brooklyn? said to be
brooklyn in 5004 after the oceans rise—a lot.
surf spots'll be way different.
Posted by: korewin at April 14, 2004 01:37 PMhttp://graphics7.nytimes.com/images/2004/04/11/arts/yablo.artspan.jpg
the url for that image is....
http://nytimes.com/2004/04/11/arts/design/11YABL.html
sorry e, did not knwo how to POST a photo....
Posted by: korewin at April 14, 2004 01:38 PM
Posted by: dang gina at April 14, 2004 02:09 PMthem's some big ass fish..
Posted by: bagel at April 14, 2004 02:15 PMcool occy story reality check
bells beach yesterday - where's Bodi?
Posted by: e at April 14, 2004 02:37 PMBELLS UPDATE
On-hold right now for the low tide
Probably on about 4pm our time I imagine.
shaka
Posted by: barney at April 14, 2004 02:46 PMOccy surfing J-bay... I wanna be a goofy foot.
Posted by: dano at April 14, 2004 02:51 PMNice Occy story RC!
I know Curren's been spotted a few times at OB, any other WCT's ever been seen in SF?
Posted by: d looose at April 14, 2004 02:52 PMthey used to have that PSAA contest at OB a while back that BVB was stoked on.
saw some people killing it back then.
Posted by: bagel at April 14, 2004 03:06 PMhog
Posted by: e at April 14, 2004 03:44 PMG & R - civil war.
ROCK!
Posted by: e at April 14, 2004 04:33 PMBELLS IS ON!
WATCH IT HERE
http://64.78.63.45/res04/bells04/live.asp
Parko vs Fanning right now
Posted by: barney at April 14, 2004 04:35 PMG & R ....classic...takes me back to high school. Downloaded a version of Sympathy for the Devil cover by them that ain't so bad..
Go Parko!!!!!
Posted by: jdz at April 14, 2004 04:38 PMGnf'inR "chinese democracy" - GREAT album...oh wait....
Posted by: j at April 14, 2004 04:48 PMy'all ever hear RATM's version of Street Fightin Man...that's a jam!
Posted by: jdz at April 14, 2004 04:51 PMI surfed DMs with Robbie Page about 5 years ago.
Years ago I saw Vetea David surfing good sized OB.
I was away at college when Curren and crew rolled through. But I have seen Curren surfing good Rincon.
Posted by: at April 14, 2004 04:52 PME, gotta get you the board tonight. Let me know whats up.
Posted by: Kaiser at April 14, 2004 04:52 PMparko just pulled off a sweet floater,,,only got him 6.5
Posted by: virtual bells at April 14, 2004 04:56 PMyo kaiser sose.. i was thinking of swinging by your place on my way home from band practice (around 10) .. i'll give you a call home-slice.
is that too late?
Posted by: e at April 14, 2004 04:58 PMI'll be packing, just give me a call. Cell phone reception is bad in the crib. Otherwise, DP tomorrow. Gotta be downtown for a meetin' by 9:30.
Posted by: Kaiser at April 14, 2004 05:05 PMwould you go on this?
Posted by: e at April 14, 2004 05:22 PMmy streaming shit dont work keep a brotha updated..im not a pro ho either..i also dont know that john stamos and rebbeca rohmain broke up..not to mention tom and penelope..but those are my own issues
parko of fanning?
Posted by: bagel at April 14, 2004 05:32 PMParko
Posted by: at April 14, 2004 05:36 PMyess
Posted by: bagel at April 14, 2004 05:38 PMI am having a really hard time booking a return flight from Cape Town to Male (Maldives) My normal travel agent is stumped. Please Anybody??
Posted by: mexisurf at April 14, 2004 05:59 PMgreetings from legoland!
quick travel log: on my way south i caught moss landing the morning that the boat capsized ("surfers please return to the beach so we can search for the body"...right), and then surfed morro rock in the pm - anyone ever meet an older artist/sponger named brother frog down there? seemed a bit frazzled but cool. also lb'd at county line along with pods of dolphins & la types.
swell dropped for a couple days, too bad because i only had yesterday to go to baja...k58 was marginal. but things picked up today, and i'm staying 7 blocks from swamis for the rest of the week. skies are blue, air & water temps providing plenty of niceness, might even glass-off tonight -- so cal livin...
Posted by: loon at April 14, 2004 06:01 PMgreetings from legoland!
quick travel log: on my way south i caught moss landing the morning that the boat capsized ("surfers please return to the beach so we can search for the body"...right), and then surfed morro rock in the pm - anyone ever meet an older artist/sponger named brother frog down there? seemed a bit frazzled but cool. also lb'd at county line along with pods of dolphins & la types.
swell dropped for a couple days, too bad because i only had yesterday to go to baja...k58 was marginal. but things picked up today, and i'm staying 7 blocks from swamis for the rest of the week. skies are blue, air & water temps providing plenty of niceness, might even glass-off tonight -- so cal livin...
Posted by: loon at April 14, 2004 06:02 PMThe Sunset historical society wants old fotos of surfing from the 70's and 80's, surfing or lifestyle will work. The fotos would be copied then archived for future generations to see. They are meeting at the Ortega Library later this month. Email me if you are interested. P
Posted by: mexisurf at April 14, 2004 06:03 PMyea pat-o! pat rrrrips
Posted by: at April 14, 2004 06:08 PMIsn't k58 la bufadora?
Posted by: blakestah at April 14, 2004 06:14 PMk58 is north of Ensenada The blowhole is just south west....
Posted by: mexisurf at April 14, 2004 06:15 PManybody no anything about surfing the Sachelles (sp)????
Posted by: mexisurf at April 14, 2004 06:22 PMSeychelles
Posted by: mexisurf at April 14, 2004 06:24 PMPROFAGS
Posted by: BVB at April 14, 2004 06:52 PMk58 = La Fonda
a wave that looks better than it is
Posted by: eric at April 14, 2004 07:09 PMyeah, I'd much rather watch you surf.
Posted by: bad vibe who? at April 14, 2004 07:29 PManonymous hecklers?
hmm....kinda the most pussy thing you can do?
quiet guy don't you agree?
Posted by: tom at April 14, 2004 07:57 PMaw shucks, ya got me Tom. You think Bob really cares? Bob, you care? Don't 'yell' at me please. don't think I could take that, seeing as how I'm a pussy and all. certainly ain't weak to call folks fags or back someone who does. course BV was prawly just heckling right? dunno, sorta all runs together after awhile.
Posted by: ben at April 14, 2004 08:42 PMcourse this here electronic communication isn't always a good indicator of things--I'm sure I'd rather just have a few beers with you both, talk shit in person and laugh it off.
Posted by: ben at April 14, 2004 08:48 PMPark"o" over Taj in the finals. Watched the whole thing on the ripcurl feed and...damn, that was boring. When they did get on a wave, they ripped it up, for sure, but the contest format, with 2 guys out there for 30 minutes, meant that after Parkinson got a big score early, Taj just sat there waiting, waiting, waiting for the perfect wave, letting a bunch go by. Almost rather see them catching more, worse waves than watch 2 of the world's best just bobbing there for 7-minute stretches.
Posted by: redworm at April 14, 2004 08:53 PMYeah, I got one, CRAM IT
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