E's Surf Report

this morning as i sit in my cube i'm dreaming of:
-road tripping thru mex
-sugar mommas
-costa rica
-having an intern
-was there really only one gunman on the grassy knoll?
-why do people have egos?
-when the settlers came west and came across lake tahoe did they think they were at the pacific?
-retiring young and running an organic farm
-my new, yet to be shaped board
-why haven't i been sleeping lately?
-nyquil or just nytol?
-why do mochas make you crap?

and various assorted other ideas. rock on niceness heads.

Swell is rolling into the SE Papa now - a fair amount of 20 second energy already, it will get a lot larger by 2 PM. This means swell will hit here late tomorrow morning, too late for DP, in time for the long lunch break.

Ah, yeah, Santa Crowded later this week. Thursday could be the day for the SF to SC challenge!

sweet beans! here's a vid of me riding all kooky on blakestah's rotating fin, and some other guy's ripping on it in the second video.

http://www.blakestah.com/fins/

DB -

I'M PARANOID AND SCARED - IS IT GOING TO BE TOO BIG!

Helped yank a jumper in large seas out of the Bay a few years ago. I was first on the outers and then I see the gulls circling around a large black floating mass between the south tower and the Point about 40 yards beyond the breakers - very slowly going out the bay. I reluctantly paddled slowly to it - 10 Kayakers geeking out near the south tower were headed to it also. I got to the body first. The mans wallett and all the things it were strewn about all around him and floating away in every direction - kind of like his expiring life. I picked up a folded up soggy map to the bridge and then let it too float away into the abyss.
All of us loaded him into one of the kayak's like a large inverted C. (broken back). In he slid like a giant sloth muttering - muttering... muttering.
The now crazed kayaker's took him away to land at Baker Bch. Don't know the outcome.
One fine Spring day not too many years ago Le'o actually saw out of the corner of his left eye what he thought might be a jumper - he turned full just in time to see the guy go splat in the north lot just around the corner.
Bit too much wind that day - not exactly on target - or was he?
VERY Funny J:

Shuffling sugarmommasmoney around right now matter of fact for the trip to Mex in May -. Big wads of cash buried deep i in prep for the day when electronic banking goes down for good. Electronic Money All Gone?!!!!
Thinking:

John Kerry: not an option. Kennedy was killed by the fascists, DUH. You know who I mean. Bobby. Martin Luther. Others. Not like we don't intuit this anyway...
Read: The Food Revolution for info on THE BUSH BUNK WHITE HOUSE HENCHMEN.

Mounting Death Toll in Iraq and Nobody Cares

Other guy = Danny Hess.

There was nothing wrong with your ride. The wave was small and mushy.

kooky? Ian you have smooth style...

If this was shot at linda mar that explains everything. contrary to what people may think that wave is impossible to surf on a short board unless you are very very good. Close outs along mush and having to provide all your own thrust is my explaination.

bad vibe, don't worry about too big. Thursday morning middle peak, third reef, offshore winds, DOH+, and jump in to catch it.

The tough part is getting in.

i posted some of bagel's fijian pics at the top.. i had to reduce the image quality a bit to get the file sizes down so as not to slow MWSF's connection to a total halt.

thanks again to MWSF for hosting e's!!!

Bagel - friggin style mastah!

bagel was killing it

OB: Ahoy! Sunny and onshores, windswell and wind velocity itself about 1/2 what it was this time yesterday. Small - shoulder highs lumping up here and there, waist high chunks more certain, occasionally larger farther out, but don't bet on it. Very mushy, increasingly so w/incoming tide. Waves look weak [ relative for OB! ] but deceptively wishy washy looking inside still has that crossed-up, rippy, heavy cement vibe to it. No one out but I see poss fickle ramps for anyone who wants to get wet. I can imagine slow, lumpy cathumpy longboard rides, or when the tide was lower, quick bumpy shorter board nibbles on the outside. Horizon looks a tad hazy and white caps are starting to take over the entire scene. Speaking of taking over, those loveable hordes of suicidal blue jellyfish have officially claimed the waterline. Beware intruders...

Love the spray

Try again;
Link: http://www.fuertetubos.com/fuertetubos/photos/preview/FT01_31924.JPG

must surf. soon must surf... must try RFS!!

anyone re-read 1984 lately? almost through it again. interesting read considering the state of affairs in our little blue planet.

about to listen to some johnny cash and get amped for the work that lies ahead... i can hear that train a coming, coming round the bend...

peace.

nice pics!

Bagel....or is it really Bagel?....who's to know with that clandestine bar of anonymity! ; ) anyway...whoever you are...stylie schralpin'! nice.

hmmm....a babelfish translator ear piece? sign me up!

daaaaamn, looks like a nice trip bagel!! fugggg.

Bagel, those are some sweet-ass shades you got on in the pics....

oh damn, my head in lights! thanx e! and mwsf! that shit was fun. hows my 70's flyaway lip turns. now i am at work and the waves are bad anyway. thats my drinking buddy frank snaking me i got him good on the one before so i deserved it, someones snaking him too so hay. im happy to have pics of myself though, the guy living on the island shooting the guests surfing is one smart, stoked fella. every guest bought thier pics, 20 guests a week, hes there for 6 months. oy

ya, im actually an old blind lady

i am in noah bagel land looking at bagel's pics high on kava shredding the hell out of the so pacific. bagel is daman.....STYLING!

flying back a day earlier to catch this new swell...iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiha!

have a niceness day!

bagel pic #3, check the niceness look on his mug as he beholds not one but 2 fellow riders dropping in on him. the visage of a deeply stoked man.

what's the real story behind the black eye-bar?

Black bar over the eyes? I thought those were some retro sunglasses! Man if surfed like that I would never hide my identity. How are the groupies and the sponsors going to find you, Bagel?

Off Thursday p.m. and Friday and I'm going to the bungalow in Saint Cruise. How many sessions can an old fart squeeze into a three-day weekend? Where's my Viagra and Geratol cocktail?

Stand by for pics; hopefully better quality than the recent ones. I'm referring to the lighting and sharpness, not the quality of the surfing. Ethan rocks! Especially with the Sampson hair flying in the wind behind him.

Oh yes. Got an interview for a new job in SC. How cool could that be? Mid-week sessions at the Lane before work?

bagel rips. At first I couldn't tell there was orange on the shorts. So I thought he was rockin the but-huggin booty shorts. No waves.. time to TRY to skate a mini-ramp.

Christian or anyone else, is Alex still doing board repair?

Not sure since he is about to become "the paddle" winner in a few weeks! Lemme know.

yes please (from sargesdailysurf.com)

Hah ha, Ian. I thought the same thing. The second pic definitely looks like bagel's wearing nut-huggers.

But seriously, killer pics, bagel. Sounds (and looks) like you had a blast!

Cheers!

OB again: the wind machine cranked up to audible level, with accompanying farkolation of already dubious surf. Woe!

Stoked for Christian, Alex, Bagel, Bruce - nice going everyone!

Bruce....good luck with the interview! workin' in SC...livin' the dream...nice. i'll keep my fingers crossed for ya!

Alex is still doing board repair.

nice pics bagel!

bruce, good luck with the interview in sc, that would be sweet. i saw you last week shooting at ob but did not introduce myself, hopefully our paths will cross again soon.

i am headed to baja late fri night, hope to make it down past ensenada in time for a sunrise session. after that i'm staying in encinitas, from tues-sun next week. looks like there's some swell coninciding with my vacation, a rarity, hope i'm not jynxing it...

wife has to stick around here a few extra days for work, so it will just be me & my dog on the drive down. i'm assuming that it will be too hot in baja to keep my dog in the car during the days, so i'm wondering about other options. he's kind of a wanderer so i would hate to leave him anywhere i can't see him, even on a leash.

are most baja hotels dog-friendly?

i would prefer camping over a hotel. any advice about what to do with my dog while i'm surfing in baja greatly appreciated.

and my grammar sucks....

sheeit thanx all you heads, y'all are the best. the black bars were to hide my identity at first but they proved to only make me look dumb and to accentuate my brown spedos i was wearing out there. effing great trip, i could have handled another month, it is good to be back in the land of good bacon though.

hola niceness! man o man and woman, you've been missed.

i've only had time to read e's after the fact during the past two weeks, but it seems like everyone has scored somewhere near or far. between a conference in san diego and an unexpected flyer to upstate new york*, i enjoyed a few blessed days in encinitas. god, i love that place! glassy, friendly, glassy, friendly. freaking love it.

* has anyone been to ithaca? would it be just like hell to live there, or is upstate new york actually the real hell?

bagel, even in those teeny hotpants, you are still one styley fellow. ;) thanks for sharing your pics.

oops! one more thing that i keep forgetting...

:: YOU SUNK MY BATTLESHIP ::
an amigo is looking for a summer noserider, 9'6''-10'. anyone looking to unload a beheamoth? he really just wants it for play days, so a board that needs some work is A-OK. email me at kknudson at pcf dot org. thanks.

and now back to your regularly scheduled work avoiding. :)

right on..

friendly.. Ithaca is gorges!

but.. on a serious note.. it's cold, dark, cold, land-locked, windy, filled with weird-rednecky townies or 20-yr-old sorority coeds. oh yeah.. it's pretty cold all winter.. and the black flies in the summer..

there are definitely worse places to live.. but.. also many better places.

yeah.. scantily-clad, black-rectangle-eyed bagel-man's got the steez.

Ithaca has good mtn. biking and decent rockclimbing/good hiking in the not too, too cold months.

see yesterday's report for information on surf in NY.

Oh yeah. CK got the wave of the day today if he was on an orange board.

arrrgghhh...those pics set my post-Namotu 10 step recovery program waaaay back...damn, looks like you had fun!

What, you no like the big chewy slab of pig they served? And is Wonga a spitting image of LT?

Tom, you hiding out again in the shadows? Or maybe just keeping a watchful eye on us DP'ers...

OK, I've got it figured out; the black bars over the eyes, that is.

Bagel has to hide his identity because he's really. . . . John Kerry! That's right, and we thought the nominee could only snowboard- turns out he can rip a wave too.

Bagel- best of luck in November. You have our vote based on your surfing alone!

Well everyone, here's the hourly word from the crow's nest: frothy blown chop from Sloat to the rock; some very mischievous winds keeping us OFF the playground. Think chunky, fizzly and gurgley, maybe not a bad thing if you like tips on your beaten eggwhites! By the way, in my ocean discussion group last night, nobody could help with this question I shared: I have a strange rash forming at the base of my chin, do you think it could be caused by some synthetic non-organic materials in my softop? Anybody else have this problem?

thanx, tom. i got lucky and managed to snag one of the fun ones that came through. btw...who were you in the lineup? would be cool to put a face to another niceness name.

Ha, cool...

i was in my truck waiting for it to get good.

it never did but i jumped in once the corner started to show on the push and grabbed a half dozen.

hey ya, thanks for the ithaca feedback, e and tom.

ithaca was gorges.......yeah, i bought the shirt, but it was snowing and blowing like crazy all weekend. on april 4! that was a bummer, and i'm from a snowy clime. it's also something like 250,000 miles from the pacific ocean. somehow, i skipped over this fine detail in my grad application process...

anyway: thanks. i'm going back to get my M.Arch and i'll either stay here and go to the CCA, or meander back up to eugene, or try this upstate NY thing on for size. the latterest seems pretty unlikely at the moment though. decision deadline is in two weeks.

anyone ever spend a stint away from the coast and/or loved ones for school or otherwise?? care to share your wisdom?

friendly....don't do it! a good program is important...and when you're choosing a school it's bound to bubble-up the ol' priority list...but don't underestimate the importance of the other things in your life. those are key. (jmo)

Haha.. I just got back from sucking at skating, and I've never had a bigger road rash in my life. Got one on my hip about the size of my hand. SCORE!

bagel.. what size board did you take to land o' plenty kind' waves?

and how much did it cost you, total, for the entire trip? wanna wanna go...

friendly - go to the best school you can, get out and get a job paying you $$$ in a nice beach community.

or, alterately, go to a reaaaal good school, meet a rich girl and retire!

Friendly,

Get a BA at UC somewhere and a Masters at Berkeley or Stanford. Forget about the East Coast unless you're going to MIT.

aaa yea! lets not forget all that shit i blew up in vietnam. i was also voted most likely to be super tall in my high shool! vote kerry.

ian i brought 2 6'5's and one 7'0, i just rode 1 6'5

luke, the shit was not cheap. lets say i could have spent a month in costa rica. but worth it(this year). the potential for getting skunked is high, its only a week long trip, not really for the hardcore travel adventurer (package deal)..the group before had rain and wind all week..and trade winds blow hard for days and days. we got lucky this year.

friendly - just did what you're talking about. moved from sf to go to school in no-where vermont for 2 years--freezing winters and no surf. i'm back now and glad i went. 2 years away made me appreciate all that sf has to offer (though my already poor surfing got even worse). also got to see a veerry different place and meet some great people--the world is big...enjoy it.

friendly, stoke is found just about everywhere - I wouldn't hesitate for a few years in Ithaca. Plenty of good outdoorsy stuff there, nice and hilly, good stuff. Not much surf though...but there are plenty of fun "outdoor" things to do in between classes.

Now, if you are more the urban coffeeshop/bookstore/club type person, Ithaca will probably be kinda like hell.

loon, I took my dog to baja a few times, and he totally dug it. He foraged for food (never ate dogfood, in fact, I am not sure what he ate, but he was never hungry - I did see him eat a few scorpions). And, tied to the car, or running free, he was the ultimate in campsite protection. Petty theft runs pretty high during surf sessions - and at night while camping out - but wonderdog just barked like crazy whenever anyone got close to the campsite. My buddies hated him on the drive down, but loved him once we got there. Plus, he ate all the halibut leftovers (we camped next to a halibut gold mine - all the fish you want in 15 minutes).

I'm not sure I'd recommend going past Ensenada though. It sorta depends on how much driving you want to do. The swell coming in will definitely be good around Guerrero Negro (actually, a little north of there), but that is kinda far for a one day shot. And there are mega good breaks in the first 50 km of Baja, so you'll have no problem finding good breaks there. Don't know what winds will be doing.

Feel free to drop me a line for more details.

Friendly - go someplace you will be happy with if you end up staying there for a while. That's particularly true w/ architecture because local building codes come into play.

damn, i thought bagel was representing 70's styling hoopsters in those orange huggies. maybe those rumors of wilt "bagel" chamberlain are true?!?

niceness fcuking rocks.

thanks for your thoughts, ck j dennis blakestah NTBtom no-one everyone. i'm just kind of stressing about this decision. but it'll all come together eventually...

i'd also like to take this opportunity to nominate bagel for The Men of Niceness in Hotpants 2005 Calendar. kaiser, you'd be willing to take the lead on that project, yes? ;)

haaaaaay, im in if kaisers in.

caveman, dont tell no one about the waterbed room in my outer richmond penthouse aaieet?

friendly, from my experience of living away from the ones you love, family/significant other(s)/friends, and being disconnected from the things you love most, like surfing.. I found out it's pretty damn depressing. But in my case it was because I had to support myself in a situation where it basically wasn't possible. When you're going to school and working your ass off just to get by, and even then you're not.. It can definately bring you down. However, if you'll have time to do fun stuff while you're getting your masters (like watch tv ;) you should be ok. But I truly think you should take up which ever option will give you the best education. I'm still in school too, and I'm just trying to place myself in your shoes, and I don't know if I would go due to my circumstances (since I'm a wuss and can't even live 600 miles from home) but just remember to take into account what is important to you, how long you'll be gone, finances, and what you;re working towards/goals. Uhm I dunno if that helps or even makes sense, but I hope it does.

Friendly- my late evening two cents.

25 years ago I was a cop in AZ finishing my BS. Wife got accepted to PT school and I started my Masters. Quit the day jobs, sold the house, gave the dog to a friend, and dumped the car payments. Wife got the PT degree, I got my MA. Then I did my PhD while wife worked. I finsihed, she got accepted to UC Davis. I worked in Silicon Valley while she got her Ph.D. and post-doc experience. Lived apart for three years and finally moved in together on a 35' sailboat for four years before getting settled. Looking back, it was a lot of heavy lifting for almost 10 years.

Lessons learned? Do it while you're young. Push as hard as you can and it will pay off later on. But don't sacrifice your mental or physical health in the effort. That's the difficult part. . . knowing where to draw the line. Success is anti-climatic, but education is almost always good and not worrying about money is better. A wise guy told me once "you're old much longer than you're young."

IMO, the school (assuming it's accredited) doesn't matter as much as finishing the friggin' degree. 50-60% of people who start grad school don't get the paper. If you're gonna' do it, pick a reasonable place to do the work, kick ass, and get out.

It's pretty amazing how advice geared toward someone else can sometimes help you. Whoever posted that last message, thanks for the inspiration for a guy in the same boat you were in days ago.

Dude, who ever is the nameless former AZ cop who completed major schooling and lived on a boat, props that's hardcore.

All the same, go to the best school you get into regardless of where it is - it's only a couple of years, the pedigree matters later (you don't want to always be explaining to people that you could have done your degree at that prestigious school in Ithaca, but instead you went to [wherever] so you could surf, and it will make surfing all the more meaningful when you do get waves. Plus - no one should start school wondering if they'll be in the 50-60% that don't finish. Of course you're going to finish. Otherwise it wouldn't make any sense to start?!

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