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blowy.. small

Entropy. the gradual dissolution of an organized system. A tendency for everything to gradually fall apart. You know how a sparkling clean room shuffles into dissarray in a few weeks.. entropy. Without wind or currents a body of water will slowly settle down into flatness.. entropy. Without focussed, resolute effort over time that long, drawn-out linear algebra problem disintegrates into nonsense... entropy. The perfect, non-dinged conditions of your new surfboard slowly dissolves into a mess of dings, pressure dents, cracks and breaks... entropy.

any science or philosophy people out there please help refine my understanding of the idea!!

I didn't check it this morning. Got home around 1am last night after watching Guitarmageddon at the Elbow Room. 4 uber-rippy, young, bay-area guitar phenoms got together for a jimmy hendrix tribute show. Two ladies held down the rhythm on bass and drums and the 6 of em' rocked the mutha fizin hizin! good times. But.. got home at 1 and the onshores were fucking raging.. all wet and gusty and nasty.. felt like a storm moving through. I momentarily blinked my eyes open for a minute at 6:30 just to make super-sure that the surf-gods were playing some evil trick on me and switching the winds around to offshore for the dawnie.. but.. they weren't .. and it was still raging onshore this morning.. but.. who knows? yesterday was fun so maybe again this morning? anybody surf?

sweetness on the lively debate yesterday.. here are some highlights..

Everyone should give it a shot, the thing is sick. (No he didn't pay me, or give me one of the fins to say it) but in my opinion it's definately an awesome invention! SATURDAY WAS SICK!
-Ian

OB: Spring sprang, it's mini and foggy with onshores of capricious velocity from zero to phone-line jangling... PS tom : regrets missing your crazed party, but heck I've connived 2 women into Ocean Beach sessions so my karma is good, yes?
- sharkbait

i also rode blakestah's low-profile 6'8" ufo, briefly - felt VERY smooth, and paddles great. gorgeous morning at lindy
- loon

How would you like the Gov coming in and taking your backyard , that you had already paid for?
- jacob

who cares when everybody has their own little peak and a pod/pack/gaggle/pride/herd/posse of 5,6,7,10 dolphins keep cruising by you to say hello and take shots of tequila with you.
- j

Does anyone out there know of a more benign, bio-friendly resin perhaps hemp or corn starch based?
- peej

Looks like a solid shot of swell coming Wednesday and Thursday...
- blakestah

and yeah...you all misssed a rager....over 100 people and easily 60% female...
- tom

City Of Filthe, Lust and Desire
- Kaiser

promiscuous pinnipeds
- dt

it wasn't perfect, and yet it was
- friendly

Cows as far as the eye can see all basking in their shit with nothing to eat except chemicals and crap.
- mexisurf

My first wave I pulled an overhead drop and just slotted into the pocket for a 50 yard ride.
- wrestler

comparing Harris Ranch to Auschwitz serious tweaked me for some reason.
- jdz

The Infinite as a tool of an evil seductor.
- jimmie

i think of our conscious experience as the first time the universe is knowing itself
- jake

they basically sit around eat and do nothing for a while then are whacked. that helps the marbling and taste of the meat,
- dsx

Sure the combo lock looks ugly, but no more messing around with hiding keys.
- wrybread

If you think that Harris Ranch is providing a healthy environment for its cows and the people who live in that area, you shoulds keep surfing Pacifica because we'll all end up in that crap.
- mexisurf

i did the vegetarian thing for 5 years but baaaaaacon brought me back. i can't resist the pig flesh,
- bbr

Moooooooo!
- caveman

You're crazy man, you got a fookin dart in your neck..
- ian

cowshwitz?
- goodmorning

people seriously underestimate my powers
- bacon

if you like gnarly death-pits.. check out this video (turn off your popup blocker)

our man jdz stylin' in Namotu
Fiji me please

Fiji me please

Fiji me please

Fiji me please

Fiji me please

Fiji me please

Fiji me please

Fiji me please

Fiji me please

Kava

OB: This report typed via direct experience...Yes it's blowsy, stormy, chopped up utter mess. Outside? There is no outside, just places where the lumps are bigger and the whitewater thicker. Peaks? No. Well, you could say there are peaks - about 10,000 of them! Bumps range from ankle whitewater to head or rare 6 foot slabs. I took a tape measure out and figure the "swells" to be about 2"-4" apart. I didn't want to be a dumbass and paddle farther to the larger lurching slabs totally by myself so stayed inside and noodled around. It's crossed up enough that floating about felt uncannily like sitting in OB crosshairs....bumps and waves incoming from literally every direction. On a plus note the sun has come out and there appears to be a ONE BLOCK area that kinda sorta almost works. A couple of peeps were out milking some drops, no racy lines, but real drops no kidding. Dunno if that little space will hold any longer but if interested email for deets. You'll have to want it bad to hit it today!

Had a great ride where my board was cruising on top of a little swell and I was directly underneath it, bodysurfing. Literally felt the underside of my board resting top of my head while zipping along, hahaha

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at March 23, 2004 10:46 AM

re: yesterday's debates:

opposable thumbs rule!!

Posted by: j at March 23, 2004 10:50 AM

No chance of hitting the reef at Shipsterns! Man, one of those peeps in the video just barely made it under the lip. Very nice.

Posted by: dano at March 23, 2004 11:25 AM


E: Pholosophers hint: I FEEL YOU.

The feeling of it was raw. My board, the one I call the "Swizzler " has one fin 6"x2x12- x 8'x4": Thing is killer for hanging in my living room too. People come over - first thing they see - next to my badass Bradshaw; relatives and my wifes friends - everyone is like:
WOW! Then they ask: how big is the biggest wave you ever surfed?
I have a slide show already prepared, beers and popcorn too.
Yesterday and this morning and later this afternoon waves are/were good inside the bay at my secret spot off Prison Island. Cpl other maintenence (indigenous native/indian) guys surf too - no wetsuits! scarifications on their chests. The other guy, lets call him 'Will' somtimes wears a wool sweater.
Intense shallow wave breaking over a visible when riding outflow pipe
Springtime is our favorite time on the island - no one around perfect peelers off the n-east side around the wall from the landing.
The wave IS A LOT LIKE outside Goat Rock on Oahu - you ride it and its a right but it feels like you're going left - weird. Tomorrow out there should be ALL TIME again.

Shoots you guys are nuts- - forget Ocean Beach in Spring - whomever heralded this place as "SURF CITY" is a fool.
There is NO HOPE. Feel it know it be it.
Until you've almost put a gun to your head over day after day of endless fog and no sun, not unitl you've contemplated moving away from here for good at least a thousand times then you can't even come close to calling yourself
" a local...," whatever that is?!
??????????// ???????????????/////////
This the era of the hot M.I.L.F. who surfs with her gay son; these are the days of the marauding tranny insta crowd; this is the era of the spent wonder; day upon endless day of new discoveries in an old worn out place.

Sorry - had to get that off my chest.

Posted by: BVB at March 23, 2004 11:27 AM

sharkbait, geez that bodysurf (or getting surfed by your board?) description has put an unshakable ear to ear grin on me.

Posted by: ben at March 23, 2004 11:43 AM

nice jdz! musta been hard to come back. geez!

Posted by: lerm at March 23, 2004 11:51 AM

Hmm, thank goodness I don't call myself a local--alergic to guns at my temple. glad we've got that cleared up.

Posted by: ben at March 23, 2004 11:55 AM

Ah entropy, how metaphorically relevant to many aspects of life. One of those concepts that, if you think about it too much and apply it too widely, tends dominate how you look at everything in your world. Result? For me: despair and a pounding headache…

For a take on entropy that is literary, rather that scientific or philosophical, though it is both of those as well, of course, give T. Pynchon’s short story Entropy a try, if you haven’t already. And if you haven’t read them, his first two novels use entropy both thematically and as plot devices, particularly the Crying of Lot 49.

Posted by: Ace at March 23, 2004 12:01 PM

It's a small but very long wave.
It's a dry-hair paddle yet very risky.
It's local but ridden by very few.
I had forgotten about it for a long time. Desperation can do that.

(Just received some boffo pics of myself and others at OB from Bruce. He da man.)

Posted by: kdalle at March 23, 2004 12:08 PM

jdz....stylin'!....nice!! that left in the bottom pics looks especially fine. mmmm....boardshorts and scruptious waves. does it get better?

Posted by: ck at March 23, 2004 12:27 PM

hmmm...i meant "scrumptious"...not "scruptious". ; )

Posted by: ck at March 23, 2004 12:28 PM

Posted by: bbr at March 23, 2004 12:35 PM

Kdalle, any shots of Doof or me on that disk? We were absent from those pasted on Bruce's page. Our session and yours only overlapped for about a half hour that day, so perhaps we were out of the water once Bruce started shooting.

Posted by: Friend #1 at March 23, 2004 12:39 PM

nice JDZ. oh man.

"This the era of the hot M.I.L.F. who surfs with her gay son" funny

hey, any good soul out there willing to rent me a travel bag that they wont be needing for the next week and a half? i need to take two 6'5's and one 7'0 on a plane. ill pay in money, beer nugs, painting, whatever. i break i buy. please?

bagel@doublefine.com

Posted by: bagel at March 23, 2004 12:42 PM

beer, nugs..

not beer nugs, i dont know what those are..

Posted by: bagel at March 23, 2004 12:44 PM

MEXISURF---
i read your post last night....i had no bad feelings towards you. what i meant was to echo your point about farming destroying the enviorment....that we take things too far.

Posted by: dsx at March 23, 2004 12:53 PM

ahhh....my kooky form up in lights for all to see!!! Namotu was amazing. If you can go...go. Although we were definitely helped by heaps of swell and for the most part perfect condtions. Am told you can get hardcore trades and junk swell there as well. But just being on the postage stamp island could be very cool even with no surf. The staff are unreal and the food is fantastic.

My only real regret is not surfing Wilkes more...Wilkes is pictured inthe two empty rights. Open ocean reef pass. That place was going off. I surfed it 3 or 4 times...one day we were dropped off the boat paddled in to try and find the lineup only to have one of the inside guys yell "outside". I turn and see what looks to be the entire horizon sucking out off the reef...with the whole "below sea-level warp" thing going on. Thought I was dead but barely made it over all three in the set. Must have been pushing double-o...at least thats my story (and I'm sticking to it). From there on out it was only 6 to 8 footers immaculately shaped...not a breath of wind...sun dappling the faces of the waves...5 guys out. One of the best sessions of my life bar none.

Bagel...i am holding some seriously good thoughts for you in the hopes that you get some good swell. And dude...rent a bag??? You can take mine no charge if you want it. It's a 7'6" coffin. Fits 3 boards easy. LMK.

Posted by: jdz at March 23, 2004 12:57 PM

Friend #1-I'll take a look. You remember what boards you guys were on that day? Hoods?

Posted by: kdalle at March 23, 2004 01:02 PM

Thank you E for the lead to article about David Rastovich RE:my quest for more benign surfboard resin (than the toxic brain-cell killing, biosphere destroying polyester resin).

Here's link to the article:
http://www.surfermag.com/designforum/dfarticles/withthegrain/- "Going With the Grain". 9/03/03.

I have put in an email to the contact in the article about tips on building a veneer board. Will report if/when I hear anything. IF ANYONE READING THIS KNOWS SOMEONE/SOMETHING ABOUT BIO-FRIENDLY RESINS, such as from hemp or cornstarch, or about building veneer boards would you please post info?

Thank you!

Posted by: peej at March 23, 2004 01:14 PM

peej, good stuff! If you hear back from the veneer contact person it'd be great if you'd post some notes--I'm curious bout the process. Cheers

Posted by: ben at March 23, 2004 01:32 PM

Kdalle - I believe I was hoodless with my blue armed suit. I was riding the plainwrap 8'0" bonzer (all white except the multi-color Eaton logo). It has a more rounded nose than the 7'6" blue trimmed one.

Doof was most likely hooded, I am not sure what what board. He has three that look pretty much identical, but aren't ( a thruster, a Campbell Bros bonzer, and his new hawaiian shaped) thruster - all 7'6").

BTW, we are both regular-foots.


Peej - Scott Miller (shapes out of Marin) switched from solvent catalysed resin to UV catalysed resin a couple years ago. This at least removes some of the VOC's associated with the process.

Posted by: Friend #1 at March 23, 2004 01:53 PM

morroco (photo from justin cote)

Posted by: e at March 23, 2004 01:56 PM

thanx jdz you are the man!

Posted by: bagel at March 23, 2004 02:01 PM

peej, you may want to talk to Danny Hess - he's been building wood boards. Thin plywood outer shells, with epoxy for sealant. His latest is a 6'6" that will weigh under 6 pounds!

Materials are cheaper than a normal board, but labor is quite a bit more. Of course, Danny does his own. I spoke with someone that rode his quad fin wood board last weekend at Fish Fest, and it sounded pretty sweet!

The wood boards will contain quite a bit less noxious materials than a normal board. Of course, normal boards use polyester resin (catalyzed by methyl-ethyl ketone) because it is very inexpensive for its strength.

Posted by: blakestah at March 23, 2004 02:09 PM

"these are the days of the marauding tranny insta crowd."

bvb, spot on native feral view. rock on.

Posted by: altabatesgrom at March 23, 2004 02:13 PM

sup eclectic entropers -

took a page straight from early ethan's book today, and got up at 5:40 for some super duper conditions. no more 1 hour drives from palo alto so I can actually dawn patrol, wooh! the water was draining fast and by 8am it was almost shut down, so the early bird gets the worm! we get misty mountain morning offshores here -- can you say groooooomed? big swell had faded to reasonable levels to open the beach break back up, and it was a good morning to be first in the water! slurf! fast times at dominical high.

my most interesting experience to relate was not riding any waves, but diving under them. three of the most critical duckdives of my life... end of session, 3 wave set towering on the horizon, getting ready to detonate with thick heaving hollowness... I scratched my way under all 3, but I really thought the middle one had my number... the lip was not just throwing when I dove, it was pretty much touching the water and so I was deep in the rotundra before diving and living. whew, made it! top 'o the morning to ya!

jdz - nice pics bro! looking fun and fine out there!

back to the Internet Service Provision for me... paz!

Posted by: jake at March 23, 2004 02:49 PM

Tom, nice party bro. You are a slut and owe me for bringing the young lady that touched big tiny.

Posted by: VBMATTY at March 23, 2004 03:00 PM

glory hole

Posted by: e at March 23, 2004 03:09 PM

I have a SECRET plan. I'm gonna get photos of all you niceness peeps and send you CD's. The only requirement is that you can't laugh at me when I Barney-ize the line up. I'm doing the same at Linda Marginal, County Line, and all the secret spots in downtown Santa Cruz. Then I can surf ANYWHERE without people giggling or sneering. You will all be compelled to stifle your laughter and distain as I demonstrate my Shamu-on-speed surfing style.

With no objective/realistic feedback regarding my performance, I will FINALLY become the 16-year old ripper who lives in my head. Like I say, if reality sucks, ignore it!

Posted by: Bruce at March 23, 2004 03:38 PM

Bruce, you get a photo of me at the mouth of an OB pit before I get dismembered and I will block for you in the line-up!

Posterize me, I dare you!

You might be on to something a little tougher then you think. With me, you might get some quality air drop action but that is about it!

Posted by: Kaiser at March 23, 2004 03:53 PM

Very cool pics of jdz in Fiji - funny how us SF surfers tend to GLOW (literally) when we peel off the neoprene ;)
Looks like it was a blast!

Posted by: Jimmie at March 23, 2004 04:31 PM

dude...i was sooooo white in fiji that it looks like i'm wearing a white rash guard. I will say that I felt like a dork wearing that hat...but since I have no hair I had no choice. Even after slathering on copious amounts of sunscreen I would still fry.

Posted by: jdz at March 23, 2004 04:47 PM

jdz - what's the deal with that hat? Does it come off while duckdiving?

i'd like to pick one up for my trip.

Posted by: e at March 23, 2004 05:07 PM

e - I found that hat at WISE of all places. Made by Quiksilver I think. It has a chin strap (you can't really see it in the pics). That thing stayed on in the worst beatings I got and seriously protected me from the sun. It's lightweight and dries quick. If you can't find one let me know and your welcome to borrow mine. Although I may start wearing that thing out around here when sunny...damn, does that mean I'm getting old???

Posted by: jdz at March 23, 2004 05:12 PM

can anyone recommend video editing software that's good and relatively cheap??? if such a thing exists.

gracias

Posted by: jdz at March 23, 2004 05:26 PM

46059-11.8ft. 17sec.
Now all we need is giant fans along the Great Hwy to blow some offshores.

Posted by: kdalle at March 23, 2004 05:48 PM

yea the wave graph at 46059 just got a stiffy. Please please pleeease stop blowing, ok just stop blowing so hard onshore.... C'est la vie (viento actually). God SC would be fun manana, before the souths wreck it too.

Posted by: banjo at March 23, 2004 07:59 PM

Hey there peej,
friend of mine turned me on to you guys. Great site.
The surfboards I build are made from fSC certified lumber and ply. I use resin research epoxy to laminate. It is still a petroleum based epoxy, though the production and use are far less toxic. Try swaylocks forum and look up Greg loehr. I've found some vegetable based epoxies out there, though they are not on the market yet. My current board project will be laminated with hemp fabric. Feel free to email with any questions. danielphess@yahoo

Posted by: D at March 23, 2004 09:47 PM

jdz- Avoid Studio 7 from Pinnacle. I had huge problems with it at work, despite the positive reviews we read before purchase. Loaded Adobe Premiere and it's been bomb-proof.

Posted by: bruce at March 23, 2004 09:47 PM

jdz- use iMovie by apple. it's by far the most user friendly program, definitely the most bang for your buck. it's like a baby version of FinalCut Pro (which, unless you have time on your hands, can be a challenge). - make some little quicktime clips and post em!

SF bouy 5.2 @ 10. wind 17.5kts. 9:40PM... ugggh.

Posted by: elias at March 23, 2004 09:49 PM

opposing editing chirps, 2 minutes apart! ha.

another thing, iMovie is easy if you are mac based. It can pretty much do everything you want to do. anything super advanced, like layers and masks, graphics and such you should get a fast computer, large external hard drive, good video card and after effects, final cut and premiere. (though, that's not the cheap route :) )

time to FTP myself into work zone and sleep zone!

g'night.

Posted by: elias at March 23, 2004 10:03 PM

jdz-

If you're PC based, I like Vegas Video, which I think was recently bought by Sony but until recently was made by Sonic Foundry, the good folks who brought us Sound Forge. Very user friendly and powerful intuitive program, my favorite by far. I didn't like Premiere, though I probably didn't give it enough of a chance. I might be able to point you towards an extended demo if you email me.

Posted by: wrybread at March 24, 2004 12:45 AM

ps- E, love the wrapup from yesterday.

Posted by: wrybread at March 24, 2004 12:46 AM

e,
i got a similar hat by columbia it had mesh and can realy cinch down on the ol' melon. It was $20 less than the quiksilver. Took an 8' set on the head at monuments, damn thing was still on my head.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at March 24, 2004 07:26 AM

Bruce's last set of photos from the lane had a shot of Bobby Owens wearing a Baseball Cap sort of thing. I would think that would work better than a full brimmed hat. Mayhaps such a thing is available in SC.

Posted by: Friend #1 at March 24, 2004 08:37 AM

Oh, and if you are jonezing enough to be reading this the day after the post. OB in the middle looked "doable". Definitely some double O sets coming through, not that impossible to get out, but pretty lumpy. NOT CHOPPY, smooth even, but lumpy. You could get the ride of your life, or the sectioning dump of your life out there. Only two were out at 6:30 about two blocks apart.

Maybe Blakestah was the one closer to the middle?

Posted by: Friend #1 at March 24, 2004 08:40 AM

i second the "doable" conditions. some real nice shoulders if you are in the right place at the right time.

peace

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