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domo arigato mr bulbous destructo

It's amazing what a difference 12 hours can make.
Yesterday evening Bagel and i speed-freaked home after work and schnagged an hour of unbridled, succulent, visceral enjoyment out at the local spot. We rushed to get out there and then shimmied into wave after wave after wave after wave. All fun-sized and racy and speedy and rampy and just loads pleasurable sweetness. We got out of the water well after the sun had set and looked at each other and basically started laughing because of how good it was.

now.. contrast that with this morning. Over the dunes to the same spot. looked a little bigger and more powerful, but definitely glassy and surfable. Immidiately upon stepping into the ocean this river-like current nearly swept Lerm and I off our feet and carried us north. Lots of water moving around on the inside. I basically let the current carry me toward a little channel.. then a few pissed-off walls of oceanic energy did their best to crush my feeble body into oblivion. Fuck. seriously rattled.. sand all up in my nostrils and my board ripped from my death grip. but.. regathered and eventually made it outside. Once out it became obvious that the waves weren't fucking around this morning. Yesterday evening was all playful twinkle magic rainbow fairies from lala-land. This morning was more hell's minions blood-dripping demon-spawn amputated nightmares from the 4th level of the Inferno. It's not that it was huge, or even that big. It's just that the waves would lurch in as thick, bulbous masses of energy. Intead of breaking in a predictable, fun-loving fashion, they would instead often collect on themselves and grow and rise and shift and bend.. then would peak up strangely and unload sharpened guillotines of angry wave form onto the shallow sandbars. Don't get me wrong. there were many many super-rideable sections, both hollow and playful.. but.. you constantly had to hold vigil for that mischievous neck-breaker that was looking to thwart the wily efforts of any inside poaching surfer... such as me!

but.. again.. i'm probably hyperpolizing slightly for the sake of a good tale. There are plenty-o rideable waves out there waiting to receive a good bashing... a good carving... a good sluicing. If the wind holds off we might even have another delectable arvo?? hmm...

Friend #1.. thanks for the boomy story of your trip up the coast and inaugural surf session with that board, sans wetsuit even!! As someone who has delved deeply into psychadelia over the years I'm bummed to admit that i've actually never surfed under the influence! Though I've had some twisted, celestial times playing footbag on the ol' liquid L. One time we were waiting to see Phish at this huge basketball arena in the Happy Valley of PSU. We were feelin' the Love for Son and Daughter, if ya know what i mean, with much force even! the show hadn't started yet and 4 of my friends and I had great seats near the front of the floor. Randomly there was this big open area with no seats so we were circled up and shredding our faces off, literally. We as a little group had been playing footbag seriously for years and had developed into quite the little rat-pack of rippers. Anyway we were jamming through juggles... warped, transfixed and raging with the harmonious universal consciousness coursing through our L-infused minds. We soon noticed these huge rounds of applause and hooting/yelling that erupted out of the 10,000 seat stadium every minute or so. We thought it was the semi-customary fake-applause that comes before a show as fans mistakenly think that the show is about to start. We shrugged it off and just kept shredding. My friend Chris Park then burrowed into an extra-long, extra-diffucult string of "guiltless" maneuvers. Something like blur into smear into double-leg over into butterfly into paradox mirage into double around the world into pixie-butterfly into ripwalk into paradox reverse mirage into pass to me. Immediately this huge surge of applause erupted from the stadium and we instantly realized that thousands of people were in fact cheering for us!! And they had been for the last 15 minutes and we didn't even realize it! FUUCKK!! crazy!! So then all this crazy energy and significance and emotion just pulsed through us and we proceeded to blast through our best combos and strings. we were looking at each other with these wide-eyed grins and just smiling and amazed at what was happening. The four of us for years had jammed and sweated and played our asses off.. every day.. for years and years.. in basements and squash courts and hallways and back alleys and living rooms and just wherever.. and now here we were tripping face, playing in front of a stadium of people. After each of the best juggles the crowd continued to go nuts! Then suddenly Phish came on stage and the show began. After the show all these people came up to us and patted us on the back and said how amazed they were. It was outrageous to have thousands of people watching and cheering for you.. anyway.. just a little story..

video of me playing footbag at the world championships in '99

footbag!

my friend Eli

peter Irish (the executioner)

Yacine is a head from Montreal

F #1, it's been a good number of years for me, but my last was real beaut, cruising some of my favorite beach cliff areas on foot (goleta) early morning on a gorgeous Sat with the rest of the local student inhabitants still asleep prior to their hangovers (as always). Sunrise, blue and gold over my favorite surf spot (wasn't surfing, just watching and feeling the area, the light and that SB ocean smell of salt water and tar and beach detritus, bare feet on rocks and sand--so clean). It was a very mellow and beatiful and calming morning.

Fun to hear your story and dig into my own dusty memories, get a feeling for what that day was like for you. Cheers, mate!

Posted by: ben at March 12, 2004 10:31 AM

e, that----is----wild!!! Gotta be the best Phish story/best Phish experience I've heard of! to be blitzed and suddenly realize that your jiving with thousands of like-minded heads???? oh my...

Posted by: ben at March 12, 2004 10:36 AM

kdalle - up for adventure manana in the morning - let me know. Anyone else, too, you just gotta be prepared to go. No backpedaling allowed.

Posted by: blakestah at March 12, 2004 10:37 AM

blakestah - always up for it. Does this mean I should rest today instead of the arvo session I was planning?

Posted by: kdalle at March 12, 2004 10:50 AM

i think everybody's linking to that video at once so it's pretty slow but holy shit ethan you got some steeeez. a far cry from my junior high lunch break hackey sack days.

Posted by: bbr at March 12, 2004 10:52 AM

will the wind hold off for an afternoon session today? I sure hope so, this cube has got be beat down. i need some racy shoulders to cry on.

Posted by: barney at March 12, 2004 10:55 AM

haha, Im reading the report at the school library, and the half naked men jumping in the air popped up on the screen. Must've looked pretty funny to anyone walking by ;) Blakestah/kdalle, where are you two crazy lads going tomorrow morning. I'm up for an early sesh. Rockaway yesterday was fun. Shut out after an hour though.

Posted by: Ian at March 12, 2004 11:03 AM

Took the day off.

Story under the influence..
I think it was 91 or 94, me and a couple of buddies headed dwon to Cabo for a couple of weeks ( I ended up in Chiapas and didn't get back for thre months but thats another story) We were down in Cabo to surf and check out the noon time total eclipse of the sun. We hooked up some atcs and headed out to the sand dunes south west of town, amazing. We dropped some dozez at about 10am and the show was on total eclipse! fucken greatest show i've seen. later we headed out to monuments and the swell was pumping. DOH walls into the big rock on inside I caught a few but it was too trippy water felt like oil, drops never ending, and flying for what seemed like an eternity. Fear got the better of me and I got out to watch. My friend bill who took more than I (I think three hits) took off on a huge set and raced down the face, I could see him lauphing, then he just slammed into the rock on the inside, board shattered underneath him. It was a bloody mess and a huge buzz kill. We rushed him to the nearby clinic. He broke three ribs, his nose and was quickly flown home. I think there is a moral to this.

Posted by: mexisurf at March 12, 2004 11:11 AM

Man E, That is some wicked bagging. My housemates and I had the evening hackysack ritual everyday back in the day, and we would struggle just to get more than a Slime-hack. With no ACL's I had to give that game up a while ago. Just not worth risking my surfing for.

Another tid-bit from that vision quest of mine.

So I woke up in the fog of Santa Barbara. I actually am not sure exactly where I was, just that there was a rivermouth or lagoon opening of some sort, and with the fog I couldn't see too much. So I ate the fungus, emptied a bowl and started walking around taking pictures.

Lots of driftwood to shoot, and some rip-rap up the sand from the water. As I started to come on, I headed up to the rocks. As I look where I am about to put my foot, there is a Rattlesnake.

I jump over it, and think that maybe I am just tripping. So I take a couple of pictures and then ask some other folks on the beach to verify my find.

Sure enough, a rattler was trying to get some heat off the rocks and since it was still foggy, the snake was too groggy to strike at me or even rattle much. Still have the pictures somewhere.

One of the best non-halucinations I have had while in the Mush Room.

Posted by: Friend #1 at March 12, 2004 11:13 AM

good diversions today. triptales & hacky madness. e i agree that vid is insane, crazy fluid dance. i see the link between footbag noodling and jerry/trey noodling. and i see you transporting some of those moves (which remind me at times of trick skateboarding) into the aquatic environment and blowing us all away at OB with some freaked out footbag-inspired aerials. bring it!

solo lysergic lunch once, green gulch, utah. i sketched dried fruit (bananas, apples) and celery, and then ate it. never surfed in that state but once bodysurfed in LJ while stepping out of the m. room, nice way to come down...

Posted by: paul b at March 12, 2004 11:20 AM

Watch this long enough and you may get flashbacks

http://www.badgerbadgerbadger.com/

Posted by: Friend #1 at March 12, 2004 11:31 AM

Loved the surfpulse report today;
"...The waves are breaking very hard, so give your favorite board a hug before you paddle out, because it could be the last time you see it in one piece."

Posted by: dmc at March 12, 2004 11:36 AM

damn all this talk about acid is getting me pumped. im headed to Utah this weekend to hang out with my Mormon family, i think ill drop a few tabs at my dads birthday party. true acid story; my older brother once dosed at thanksgiving dinner and i was watching him stare at the jello for a noticable bit. i later learned he was comunicating with a lepuchaun who was chilling on the jello.

jeez mexisurf talk about a bad trip..

kinda felt like i was on acid last night cause i was having so much effing fun. we scored.

pretty ok this morning, good to chill with christian and robme as always

nice hackey skills E! very impressive once again

Posted by: bagel at March 12, 2004 11:40 AM

ps. got a mini sneak peak of B.A.S.E. mag last night. look out, the shits gonna take over, very awesome! (sorry e)

Posted by: bagel at March 12, 2004 12:02 PM

ian. email if interested. We know Bad Vibe is lurking, so we gotta be low-key.

Posted by: blakestah at March 12, 2004 12:23 PM

one word HUMBLED!!!!
paddle out at 7:30am at sloat, got into the lineup at 8:30! FUCK! i have surfed OB for years, this was one of the worst paddles/size ratio EVER, i mean EVER. this was the worst paddle by far this year and it wasnt even big, 2 feet over head at most. just relentless wave after wave after wave, no channels, very few lulls. at one point i was about to pack it in, but my damn ego and determination forced me to fight on, fight on i did. finally made out realized i had wasted around 1 hour fighting 2nd bar pounders that were relatively speaking pretty damn small for what they were dishing out. got 2 shitty waves and ran out of time. today SUCKED! period.

Posted by: dsx at March 12, 2004 12:34 PM

ben, dude, many years ago I did the exact same thing: cruise along the cliffs in Goleta early on a Saturday with a couple of then-friends. Good description of the sensations. And those cliff faces with all the highly detailed erosion patterns? Stared at those for hours! The greater SB area seems a popular spot for el cid.

Good point mexisurf, no chance of me getting hitting the ocean with a board – activities requiring coordination were always too weird (read: difficult) for me, even well-practiced ones. A swimming pool, on the other hand, can be hours of fun when one is on the other side of the peak…

Posted by: Ace at March 12, 2004 12:35 PM

argggg, you're killing me. an amigo and i went south last night and decidedly did NOT score. it totally sucked, actually--the waves and my attempts to catch them. glad someone scored...but....grrrr. d'oh in a big way.

psyched about BASE though...and the mad footbag skills. shyeet, i didn't even know they had a world championships!! go, e!

Posted by: friendly at March 12, 2004 12:42 PM

Holy cr*p E! Kind surfer, great vibe writer, guitar rocker, now footbagger extraordinaire? Leave something for the rest of us, eh?! If I hear you're a financial modelling wiz taboot I'm going into hiding.

Posted by: Marco Esquandoles at March 12, 2004 12:44 PM

Hey wrestler, big seas? Povones? and your fishing on acid????

Posted by: mexisurf at March 12, 2004 12:46 PM

isn't "fishing on acid" a flaming lips cover band?

Posted by: bbr at March 12, 2004 01:04 PM

E-
You've probably seen this, but apropos of compiling "best-ever" posts, you can have the contents of the weblog printed and bound in the form of a fine hard-copy book:

blogbinders

What you've got in the niceness archives is nothing less than a multi-perspective day-by-day history of OB surfing over the last couple-odd years. With some selective editing (redundant, I know), you could end up with quite a book. I'd buy it. The best part - it's already written.

Posted by: redworm at March 12, 2004 01:09 PM

This is basically exactly what my thoughts were before I read Marqo's up above. Might as well just copy and paste.

Holy cr*p E! Kind surfer, great vibe writer, guitar rocker, now footbagger extraordinaire? Leave something for the rest of us, eh?! If I hear you're a financial modelling wiz taboot I'm going into hiding.

Posted by: sam at March 12, 2004 01:28 PM

Sick footbag e! Amazing, actually. It know someone already said it, but the moves totally remind me of skateboarding.

Yeah, Bagel and Christian, fun surfing with yall as well. Some thick ones, yah!

There was a fog bank out here, but its gone, and it's summer again. Light westerly breeze. From what I can see the surface still looks okay.


Posted by: robme at March 12, 2004 01:28 PM

dsx - i agree with your assessment.. it was a tough morning.

thanks redworm.. good knowledge on the blogbinders! I'll check that out.

thanks everyone for the footbag props.. to be honest it was a fucking long-ass road over many many years to get there... not unlike surfing! but it was easy due to the incredibly high fun-factor. I would probably still be playing if i didn't suffer from a nagging arch injury that eventually ended footbag in my life.. I was really really depressed for almost a year after the injury because i was living with footbaggers and had developed a lifestyle that largely focussed on footbag (watching video, stretching, shredding, more video, talking footbag, footbag listserve, more shredding, travelling to contests, footbag friends, etc.) but my injury instigated the renewal of surfing in my life after 8 years away from it so i'm stoked.

Footbag really taught me how to learn. Strait up. Focussed Passionate Repetition. To learn many of the maneuvers required thousands of attempts. Each attempt of a move spurred a little micro-adjustment or compensation for what went wrong. Over time you'd refine that maneuver until your percentage of successfully hitting it started to rise. Then there was the freestyle, improvisational aspects of footbag which totally taught me a shitload about losing yourself to the flow and bounded self-expression and style and rhythm and stuff like that. I'd explored many of those avenues through music but not really through an athletic pursuit. So it gave me this huge appreciation for dance and ballet and gymnastics and snowboarding and skating and surf!

Being so heavily involved with such a fucking random-ass niche little pursuit also opened my eyes to how hard-core some people and communities get into their own little thing.. yo-yo, disc golf, juggling, origami, darts, table tennis, freestyle frisbee, scrabble, etc.. all these little micro-cultures of human beings pushing the boundaries of what humans are capable of.

anyway

Posted by: e at March 12, 2004 01:35 PM

one time in SC some gremmie watched me surf down the line all the while he kept paddling to catch the wave with a big smile on his face and then as i got to where he was he finally caught the wave and stood up attempting to stuff me. i sped up and shoved his 125 pound ass and board out of my wave and continued to style.

paddling back out i passed him and told him that he "must be trippin'"

Does that count?

Posted by: tom at March 12, 2004 01:43 PM

DSX -

A while back someone was asking about dryhood paddle outs and whether they were respected. I said that Luck is the biggest factor on that one.

Almost the same with the heavy paddle out. I had mine on Tuesday with 30-40 minutes to get out in the middle.

Today I rode one left through a second section into what I would call the Chunky-Zone. Seemed like the waves at sloat would jack up on the outside just enough to get in, but would hold back their energy for the last few grains of the outer bar. If you were stuck there, I feel for you. Luckily for me I only had to bail under three or four before I could sprint back out.

Ah, Ocean Beach. If it were always easy, would we love her so much?

Posted by: Friend #1 at March 12, 2004 01:45 PM

surfed on vitamin a once. friends jumped me and dosed me on my last day on maui. 6-8 ft. one of the best days of my year on the island conditions wise, simply perfect. surfed reef's east of paia. to this day one of the most connected surfing expereinces i've ever had. a confluence of visual and physical expereince. i highly recommend that if you trip and rip, perhaps just once you should trip and rip as one. an amazing learning expereince that altered my surfing reality forever.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at March 12, 2004 01:48 PM

how can you not love tom?

Posted by: robme at March 12, 2004 01:49 PM

3to5. sounds grand homie. thanks for sharing..

robme - i second the "Tom is hilarious" sentiment.

shiiiiett.. izz soo nice out!

Posted by: e at March 12, 2004 01:54 PM

Friend #1.truly spoken from one who knows the beach. i was SO pissed after around 40min because the waves just werent that big. if it was solid DOH i would have taken my beating and been fine with it, what just got under my skin was that head high surf was abusing me.

Posted by: dsx at March 12, 2004 02:10 PM

notice how no-one is linking their email to hallucinogenic exploits? like f--ing john ashcroft is gonna send us all subpoenas via email when he reads about all these degenerate surfers sharing their psychedelic adventures...

Posted by: paul b at March 12, 2004 02:18 PM

actually.. paul b.. we (mwsf and i) still have the email address field purposefully unlinked because of that spat of spam/virus' that was sent from email addresses taken from this site. I've been meaning to get the email field back up and functional again.. soon..

Posted by: e at March 12, 2004 02:23 PM

Back and with a new first: WORST SESSION EVER. Holy crap. Forgot everything. Did better my first week surfing. I guess I should give myself a break because 4 x's in 6 months is not enough. Went to Lindy to be nice to the arms, ended up just swimming around the inside. However I guess I've learned something because I *did* get to the outside, saw this particular incoming set, thought "hm" and turned back to the inside. Later I met a guy who for a while was slightly north and outside of me and he had his longboard snapped in two - a really solid board - clean break straight across the top 3rd. So I did something right - survived. Lindy! Hat's off to broken board Lindy guy. And at least I can start surf/swimming 3-5'xs a week again, yay back in the game.

OB: sunny, calm winds, but all over the place. Not size, but strength and random mess. Nuggets to be had but it's like the Lindy described above, on steroids. Will pipe up if it improves

Lastly: it's not brunch but my house is, alas OPEN from 2-4 this Sunday so why the hell not niceness, just drop on by! Everyone else is. Have a surf, say howdy, make yourself at home and discourage any yucky people from buying it ;)

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at March 12, 2004 02:25 PM

Winds are pushing 20 knots at the buoy from 320 degrees - arvo session is shot...

Maybe sk8te to the biscuit for a brew instead...

Hope the winds don't blow like this tonite, or else it could be the return of March.

Posted by: blakestah at March 12, 2004 02:28 PM

Another under the influence..

Vancouver Island a few years back. We were chillen on a beach on the edge of a lush temperate rainforest waiting for the swell to come up, In the distance we could see some small waves breaking over an outcrop of rocks at the point. We drink a little fungal tea and motivate, There is a guy named Steve who lives in the forest there, raised nearly a dozan kids on squated land, he was an old draft dodger from the 60's. Anyhow, he had this canoe and we borrow the thing to paddle out to the surf and check it out. Waves looked a little bigger than they did from shore and we decide to catch a few with the canoe. Shit was not as easy as we though and we freaken ram the canoe into the rocks and it tips over, we go into the water fucken frigid water, pretty funny at first, but then it got scary when the potential hypothermia set in. Steve was sitting on the porch of his little shack and didn't so much as get up. We swam the canoe to shore, then Steve went inside his shack then walked came out with a dingrepair kit and dropped it next us without saying a word. That was a memorable trip 6 weeks on vancouver island with no windshield wipers on my van..... to be young was fun

Posted by: at March 12, 2004 02:28 PM

Another under the influence..

Vancouver Island a few years back. We were chillen on a beach on the edge of a lush temperate rainforest waiting for the swell to come up, In the distance we could see some small waves breaking over an outcrop of rocks at the point. We drink a little fungal tea and motivate, There is a guy named Steve who lives in the forest there, raised nearly a dozan kids on squated land, he was an old draft dodger from the 60's. Anyhow, he had this canoe and we borrow the thing to paddle out to the surf and check it out. Waves looked a little bigger than they did from shore and we decide to catch a few with the canoe. Shit was not as easy as we though and we freaken ram the canoe into the rocks and it tips over, we go into the water fucken frigid water, pretty funny at first, but then it got scary when the potential hypothermia set in. Steve was sitting on the porch of his little shack and didn't so much as get up. We swam the canoe to shore, then Steve went inside his shack then walked came out with a dingrepair kit and dropped it next us without saying a word. That was a memorable trip 6 weeks on vancouver island with no windshield wipers on my van..... to be young was fun

Posted by: at March 12, 2004 02:28 PM

yesterday on strong island NY

yesterday in jersey

Posted by: e at March 12, 2004 02:28 PM

DSX- I hope there were people lollygaging around 50 yards out from you to complete the experience.

You gotta love that "god Fucking Dammit, what the hell is going on" feeling.

At least you got out, eh?

Better that trying and being denied.

Better than looking from the lot and not trying.

Better than staying at home in bed.

Posted by: Friend #1 at March 12, 2004 02:34 PM

e-dug your 'niche pursuit' soliloquy. I've never had the gumption to follow a skill into the ultra-commited-ripper realm. So impressed by those who have...maybe one day I'll know something about the feeling. Great to get a glimpse into your head re: what it meant/means for you. definitely inspiring and some good lessons to hold onto. Grazie mille!


Posted by: ben at March 12, 2004 02:37 PM

Ace, brah, yeah, smiling big here--I totally dig on those sculpted cliffs. What a place to have spent good time, eh?

Posted by: ben at March 12, 2004 02:45 PM

My agents are patrolling the beach as I write.

Posted by: John Ashcroft at March 12, 2004 02:51 PM

thnks paul b. actually this is like a coming out of sorts. screw you john ashcroft I surfed on acid and it was funking great. you'd prolly be in better health if you did too. peace.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at March 12, 2004 02:52 PM

second that friend #1, there were two other paddling out near me...they got hammed just as bad, we all got out eventually.

Posted by: dsx at March 12, 2004 02:53 PM

Winds kicked up and arvo session shot? F#$% me. This cube is running my life. FWIW, I got hammered on the inside during the wednesday evening session. Went to drop in and my calf cramped up. Worst cramp I have ever had. Took about 5 on the head trying to uncramp myself. anyone got helpful hints on cramp fixes, besides the standard stretching?

Posted by: barney at March 12, 2004 02:56 PM

I vote for today being the best all-around posting session... trippin', baggin' and getting beat up by mother nature. Sweet. Anyway, surfed some really fine closeout crap today. Sometimes getting into those 0.0001 second closeout barrels is all it takes to have a good time.

P.S. Disc golf... yeah!

Posted by: dano at March 12, 2004 02:58 PM

http://news.yahoo.com/news?tmpl=story&u=/ap/20040312/ap_on_fe_st/sea_lion_abduction_2

Posted by: phil at March 12, 2004 03:00 PM

nutty story

Posted by: at March 12, 2004 03:01 PM

Hey S.S., aiee, sorry about the worst sesh ever! It sucks to not be getting water time and therefore be out of surfing shape and rusty, then have it rubbed in you're face by an uncooperative ocean when it would be so much healthier to be feeling the love! Between a work schedule that ain't so forgiving, tweaking knees and back spasms I'm such a kook. Maybe we need a Nicenes Injured and Rusty and Generally-Kooking-Out group session? Bunch of smiles and silly waves and stoke and support for the fellow kook?

Posted by: ben at March 12, 2004 03:04 PM

Shit, so many reads today. Can't keep them all in line.

Tom, you ever get in the water today? Your intimidating glare out over the lineup around 8:00 had me a bit concerned that I would actually witness you paddle by me! Got out and you were gonzo.

Anyway, waves were fairly good where I was today. Kinda sparse but still nice to get some unmolested. Freakin E rocking the footbag, killin that shiz. Just like Mick Lowe killed Mr. Irons yesterday at the Superbank. Well done Lowey.

Blakestah, you stick with your plan? Mine worked out. Good rap yesterday.

Posted by: Kaiser at March 12, 2004 03:05 PM

"Ashcroft, get the DEA down to Ocean Beach now... hello, hello? John.. hello."

Posted by: President Bush at March 12, 2004 03:28 PM

that sea-lion story is hilarious.

i like
"The only thing I was thinking is, that sea lion was taking off with my boy, and I'll never see him again."

Posted by: e at March 12, 2004 03:49 PM

Reef Road FL this morning

http://www.tsphotodesign.com/surfing/040312/

Posted by: at March 12, 2004 04:12 PM

cool shot from sargesdailysurf.com

hopefully Christian's little Neco will be doing this soon!

Posted by: e at March 12, 2004 04:26 PM

OB: sunny, mild onshores, water still confused. Poss surfable ...saw a few peeps cruising the beach, looking. They went in eventually but I didn't see their results. Guarranteed wupp ass for paddle outs. Good luck!

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at March 12, 2004 04:37 PM

The reigning Footbag World Champion Va'clav Klouda is absolutely incredible! I truly marvel at his dropless footbag super human skill of poetry in motion session, yours as well, Thank you very much for sharing the experience it's amazing to watch 'surfing the spaceways with the footbag'!

Posted by: h at March 12, 2004 05:35 PM

have a niceness weekend

thanx to mother nature for hooking our asses up the last 7 days..adios fall in spring

Posted by: bagel at March 12, 2004 06:11 PM

UFO report. I sent a freebie to a professional shaper I don't know - guy does about 200 boards a year in Florida. Here is his first ride report. H?e put the UFO in a shortboard.
--------------------------

you're on to something there.

the surf was small, rib to face high, with hard offshores, 40% closeouts but clean and fun (basically a call-in-sick day here...).

the drive off the bottom was solid and predictable, the rail to rail work mid face was smooth and speedy, but my favorite part was on my last wave, as i stood up it sectioned up ahead and i had to do a quick, HARD top turn to get things started and it came solidly out of the gate like a thruster, but down the line had that single-fin "smooth" and no need for pumping other than for positional adjustment. i probably caught 15 or 20 waves but the closeout ratio hampered things a bit...i have yet to get to try a good frontside roundhouse (but the backside cutbacks i got were n-i-c-e).
-----------------

Posted by: blakestah at March 12, 2004 08:09 PM

just when all hope is lost (hopefully not fitness too), an ubertuber swell will hit and rock the inside world. The surf lately's been a bit haggard and intense except for those sweetness moments...nice to know mincemeat has lots of company. Seen it in supertubes in April one year - I ain't giving up yet!

Posted by: banjo at March 12, 2004 08:28 PM

Outer Bar niceness

I haven't drunk from the cup of the outer bar gods much this year due to injury - today was a chance. Bailed on mysto points and hit it. There were about 20 guys in the lot shuffling their feet and staring at the disorganized outside, and guys getting denied. Probably 75% denial ratio.

I figured I didn't get chances to surf all the time lately, so I just gunned it. I put out a bonfire first (lots of creosote), then paddled out. Wearing my watch - 12 minutes.

Then a fog bank came in, and the lot was sealed off from view. And the waves got good - I guesstimate 10-12 footers coming from deeper water and lurching at the bar. I got 3 waves in 40 minutes.

Wave of the day. Took off backside, and I could feel this wave lurching harder than the others. I was airborne. I stuck the landing and went directly down the line. I could feel my weight as far over my rail fin as possible - a tiny bit more and I'd fall forward and be toast. Then, control regained. The lip at this point was just over my head. So I semi-stalled and leaned back and in, and let the wave suck a little more around me. Not tubed, just fairly deep. It eventually spat me out, and I could see the closeout coming, so I headed UP the face and into the terminal bowl, before turning down and outrunning it. Sort of. The whitewater actually caught up to me in another 3-4 seconds and shoved me forward off my board with the force of a couple college lineman. I dropped into the froth and headed home.

No one in the lot was suiting up - they could only see the inside, and it didn't look pretty. C'est la vie - the good waves went to those who paddled out.

Posted by: blakestah at March 13, 2004 12:08 PM

yea it was good to those who went. Looked at the size, decided to go anyway, after a few anxious moments flirting with A-frame bombs made it outside. For the next hour the only thing I saw besides fog and waves was e-rock. Very atmospheric and cool. Ping ponging dark outside mounds skulking into the bell jar of visibility. Thick northerly lines merging with what it seemed were almost perpendicular to the beach south pulses. Three or so other surfers eventually emerged out of the fog. Caught one wave in particular that was OB outer bar in capital letters - DOH lined up screamer that I could just soar on, got me a football field down the line so quick... who needs to ingest chemicals when your entire body tingles after a wave like that? The lady was swatting guys that were trying to shade too far inside, saw the inevitable broken board. Some of the outer bar waves were breaking soo far out. Yup today was a combi of determination to go out, stubbornness getting out, and commitment to scratch into those holy rollers. Didn't look great but delivered - dug it.

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