E's Surf Report

Stoked to hear you got some waves this morning, E.

Anyway, I'm a friend of Christian's; I surf the beach a lot and grew up a bit north of here. I have a favor to ask:

I need to find a new housemate, and I'd like to get a mellow surfer into our mellow surf house. Maybe the Niceness crew knows of someone?

It's a big room in the outer richmond - 42nd and Anza. Hardwood floors, private bathroom, full views of ocean beach from up on the hill. Garage with board racks and a dedicated surfer housemate who will force you to surf every rideable day at the beach. $670.

Email me if interested; this is a sick place for a surfer. Thanks!!!

damn.. that sounds like a good deal Lewis. Plus if you live there you can be neighbors with the illustrious Robme and the swarthy Bagel.

i have another sort of classifiedesque comment: i found a pretty nice pair of sunglasses in the lot at pacifica on sunday. wondering if anyone who reads this blog lost a pair or knows of a better way to post to find the eyeball-fried loser of the glasses. let me know the brand/color and i will mail them to you.
surfed the lane sat. evening. holy firing. at low tide/near sunset it glassed off and the swell rolled in. beautimous.
one more ? how's southwest's reputation at board treatment? thinking of taking my soontobe newly shaped fish to it's mecca sd one weekend and worried it will be injured before it has had a chance to breathe.

Good on ya, e, I think I have a pretty good idea what that is all about. I shared some waves today with our friend the wooden board builder and neptune and a fisherman.

The long drives in the morning kill me, though...

Wow lweis, that sounds sick! Too bad I couldn't afford that other wise I would be there in a heart beat! damn :( Anyway, e, cool post man! glad to hear you got sum. Steamwand, try posting also on surfpulse classifieds.. A lot of people post lost & found stuff on there from time to time.

I meant lewis :)

paul b just got back from 5 days on oahu. he sent me this pic of pipe

In the spirit of e's session reports... Here's an account of a sunday session that my housemate brad emailed to me.

This is what a prospective housemate would have to look forward to if they took the vacant room.

Here's Brad's story:

Sunday morning (about 7:45am) lewis and I paddled out at Rivera;
he on a 7'4" and me on an 8'0" gun. There was partial sun and partial
overcast skies, and the ocean looked like a torment to deal with... but it
was surprisingly easy for me to decide to go for it, perhaps because my
dried-out crusty brain was just hoping for a little different torment than
the hangover it was already dealing with.

It reminded me a little of February 11th, 2000 ( I believe) when you and I unknowingly hopped into the ocean at VFWs during the extreme building swell that would make that day one of OB's best days of the past couple years...
Only yesterday wasn't quite that good.

Somehow we both managed to punch through the inside shore pound (overhead, totally unmanageable shore pound with stacked-up white wash for a good 200 yards). I was relieved about making-it past that section, only to realize I had arrived in the hairy "midzone", looking at triple overhead mackers hitting and jacking up on the outside bar, with still another hundred or so yards to paddle out further!!!

Lewis set off and negotiated one peak while I allowed myself to drift down to another, and we sat out there and waited for the big ones. I was pretty comfortable until a coast guard boat showed up with some 18-year old coast guard yahoos, doing maneuvers and playing in the big sets. They backed into the lineup, seriously within earshot of me, totally freaking me out. Not only was it frightening to be that close to a big powerful vessel way out to sea, but when huge sets would come in, it really put the waves' SIZE into a perspective that my psyche really didn't need to see. Basically the waves towered over the top of the boat, and they would gun the engines to sort of leap up and over the wave before it crashed.

Distracted by the boat, and because I was keeping my eyes peeled on what they were doing, I missed lewis drop into one of the biggest waves of the morning. I only saw the 2nd half of the wave because (again, being so damn close to that vessel) I noticed one of the coast guard guys pointing frantically towards lewis. When I turned my head I saw lewis, in perfect drop-knee crouched stance, quickly speeding toward the trough at the bottom of this massive moving hill of water. About the time it looked as if he was preparing to draw his line back up, the feathering top of the wave, easily 5 times the height of Lewis in crouched stance, threw a giant oval barrel.

Just afterward, and almost content with the show I guess, the coast guard guys sped off back towards the Bay, I guess. Their departure, plus the rush from seeing Lewis' big bomb of a wave, charged me up and regained some of my 'go for it' mojo. Now I really wanted one.

It didn't come for another little while, after a couple more Great Hwy blocks drifted by, until I sort of landed into the lineup around Lincoln or
Judah. Finally I got a drop, a small but pitchy right hander that mushed out after the drop. Still fun and at the least my internal wave scorecard got a partial hashmark to go home with. After that, I think my legs got
tired without communicating to my head, so my excited brain paddled me into another couple smaller (maybe only 2-3 feet overhead) but pitching, waves.
I didn't make those, and I got man-wrangled and tossed like a ragdoll, luckily completely relaxed... where you have time underwater to sort of chuckle to yourself about it, while 'it' is still happening.. funny shit.
On the internal scoreboard, those beatings definitely registered some sort of hashmark as well, to take home with me. Clearly they were fun and noteworthy enough for me to want to account for them in a long, run-on sentenced email while on company time. So fun!

Hee hee..

-brad

Rad--Digging Brad's story all the way and was at full grin mode when he hit "...run-on sentenced email while on company time." Cheers. Geez I wish I had the $670/month! Good luck Lewis.

ha ha....i think you scared off half the prospective roomates lewis.....

....anyway folks. don't worry lewis also rips the small stuff too.

e was that second shot joel tudor? he was out at pipe on sunday. i saw him get 3 waves... shacked on each one.

i also saw a guy who looked like he probably knew what he was doing (ie not someone who shouldn't've been out in the first place) come up on the beach, throw his (broken) board on the beach in disgust/exhaustion, and collapse on his back; a few minutes later he walked up the beach and exclaimed to no one in particular, "i almost fucking died just now."

it was a pretty heavy day. i was glad i was watching, not surfing. earlier in the day, before i got there, i guess a relative unknown from maui won the hansen's pipe contest.

i surfed himalayas (right near laniakea) the day before. caught five waves, probably the biggest of my life. some guy was towing in on the outside, 18-20 ft faces. the waves we were catching, a little further inside, were more in the 15-18 foot range. wow!

ummm, ya, i think ill take up this other offer and move to Pleasanton. i got crazy people living in my neighborhood.

extra movie review..Lost in Translation, 9 stars.

"my parents were little people...little Swarthy people"

Reading Brad's story during my lunch break made office-imprisoned day tolerable. As a self disclosed big wave wimp I'm so impressed by those of you who charge XL OB.

It got me thinking about how this crew survives so many big days at arguably the most challenging break in California. And, more important, why visiting surfers don't drown (my apologies if that sounds morbid).

Am I correct that the inner bar and nasty currents serve as preventive measures, spanking those who shouldn't be there? It seems clear that it would be much easier to get in trouble at some of the North County reef breaks which have big channels, or even the "glamour" spots like the Lane or PP.

Watching the Middle Peak on Sunday I saw a TOH rogue break top-to-bottom about 10 feet in front of four guys. Would they be in that situation if they had paddled out through three or four rows of white water and done 237 duck dives?

Sorry, random rambling. But those of us who admire you guys can't help but wonder and sometimes worry.

I love the last sentence from the National Weather Service's area discussion for today...

".MARINE...ALONG WITH THE RAIN AND WIND THE GWW WAVE MODEL CONTINUES TO FORECAST SEAS OF 20-30 FEET TO MOVE INTO THE COASTAL WATERS WITH THE BIG STORM ON WEDNESDAY...WITH THE HIGHEST SWELLS REACHING THE COAST ON THURSDAY. THE MAX SWELLS ARE FOCUSED RIGHT ON SAN FRANCISCO. THUS...WEDNESDAY AND THURSDAY WILL NOT BE GOOD DAYS TO BE OUT ON THE OCEAN. "

and from Stormsurf...

"Now is the time for oceanfront property owners to start making preparations to protect property"

that story by brad was dope. Lewis.. did you get inside that barrel?

"About the time it looked as if he was preparing to draw his line back up, the feathering top of the wave, easily 5 times the height of Lewis in crouched stance, threw a giant oval barrel."

Yeah.. some of the conditions that people go out in at OB are ridiculous. Humungous and wild. Punishing! Some people just like it giant and raw. or sometimes giant and groomed.

jdz - you still have that 8ft board lying around?

e,

I saw you surfing my local break that rhymes with whore style this morning. Don't you know this is a locals only place? Keep your organic salad eating ass out of here.

Dwayne

OB: overall 1/3 the size but same gloppy style as yesterday. Possible shifty surfable shoulders. No one out. Mediumish onshores, incoming haze, and strong solid whitewater. Inside looks like laundry day at OB.

.cheers,

the dwayniac! what up bro! i got your email a while back and felt bad if you though i was making fun of your paddling. it's definetley different but it works as you get tons of waves and surf the spot expertly.

anyway....how is the little blonde doing with the long braids? she such a sweetheart and a great surfer. i'm overdue a trip down there but..... do me a favor and stop dropping hints about the place on this little web community. i don't want kooks to start showing up there just 'cause some folks like to brag about where they surfed, ya know?

not that it is a secret spot or anything but she could use a little help from time to time keeping her from being overrun.

yup...that thing needs some use it is definitely not getting enough attention from me! gimme the word and I will drop it off next time i'm in the city.

OB I stand corrected there is one person so far out I mistook for a seabird floating around the flat, the flat, the flat, the mush...wait the bird is paddling for that swell and missing then BAM just TAKES OFF down an almost DOH mush bomb. Barely outraces the whitewater, makes some longboardy carves, heads right. Really exciting , I was leaving a message on a friend's phone and just started yelling mid-sentence. Hooray suprise surfer...

who is getting a better deal than $670 in SF? What in the hell is everyone else paying for rent within city limits?

radical, is dwane an artichoke farmer? or does he just live in a van? organic salad eating ass had me rolling though..xo

i pay 700 for a 1 bedroom, been there since 95 though

1050 for a 1 bedroom, much better than the 1350 for a studio i was paying before. i couldn't afford the city if i didn't live with my fiance. i don't think 670 is that steep for your own room and bathroom in the city.

yo blakestah, i really like using your tide chart app, have you ever thought of making it a bit longer so we can see a few days in advance?

That can't be the real Dwayniac can it? I swear that I haven't seen you at your so-called "local" spot since the Jake-ster introduced me to you some time ago. Where you been? I see Vernor but not you... Make sure you give us a shout when you make your way up to OB, love to hang w/ ya!

Paul B, heading over to the islands Thursday. To be honest, I am a bit worried right now. Calling for 15-18 ft. Friday/Saturday/Sunday. Fuck. You get in any other sessions? At that size, I am almost regulated to the beach or I risk getting another reef tattoo.

Hmmm, bbr, let's see what I can do.

Of course, you can always get xtide for yourself...

$1150 for my studio. all paid for by me. bumming as every extra penny goes to rent. but i'm stoked because i love my place. I agree that $670 is a great deal for a room with your own bathroom.

I would LOVE to be only paying $700.. whoever posted that should be PSYCHED!

I don't really think that's the real dwayniac above. first off.. i don't think he knows what i look like, and secondly, i wasn't surfing his spot.. though somewhere close by.

maybe dwayniac just mistakenly thought he spotted e surfing floor smile this morning. maybe there was some other long haired soulful wave warrior laying down a positive vibe along with his phatty carves, and dwayne just assumed it was e.

who knows with that guy.

organic salads are rad!

Yeah, xtide is cool. There are clients for just about every platform and OS...

http://www.flaterco.com/xtide/

e, stoked you got the goods this AM. solo surfs rock. a few weeks back you asked about good books, Unexpected Light, Jason Elliott; is a travelougue written by a british journo roaming Afghanistan towards the end of the russian war and the beginings of the Taliban. Great book to take on the road. But be careful this book induces hashish and lamb kebab cravings. peace.

Those Surfer covers bring back some memories. The third one down is especially memorable. I may be wrong but I think that is J. Riddle. What I like is that his board has a hyper-kicked nose that Reono Abellira introduced. I owned one in 1970 if I remember correctly. Loved that thing. It was bright yellow, 6'-8" and the nose scooped up to almost vertical. The nose wasn't pointy but was square off with radiused corners. It had a very narrow rounded pin with a vee bottom and a Skip Frye single fin. This was before leashes and I lent it to a friend who proceed to ride it right in to the jetty in deal, NJ. that was it end.

Also interesting on that cover is the beaver tail wetsuit top (notice the beavertail flying in some of the shots. We also used those during that period as we had no money and were using badly fitting scuba wetsuit from a friends parents. No leashes, no hoods,poor fit and midwinter surfing in the snow. Damn that was fun! OK, nostalgia over.

Hey e, can you hook up a spell check to this thing for me.

thanks for the book rec 3to5.. i'll check that out.. sounds interesting..

also thanks for the stoke drums n space. though you forgot about my phatty wipeouts and heinous kook style. A friend of mine once made me a mixed CD called drums n space.. it was trippy..

some schnazzy pics

kaiser...

i surfed a couple sessions right out front of my hotel at waikiki. tiny, but i had this rented 12' epoxy that i could catch the tiniest ripple on. once i figured out how to turn it, it was loads of fun. pretty stark contrast from himalayas.

also, i've never been over there, but in such huge conditions, the guys i surfed with were saying that west side (like makaha) might be OK & a bit more reasonable.

have fun! pb

OB: size and onshores cranked up. Looks like a narsty paddle for anyone going into the soup. Of course never say never ...

I hate to break it to you e, but I've got the lock on Heinous Kook Style title. Mine! You'll have to stick with your own title, like Soulful Kickass Salad Surfer or something like that .

I don't know who mistakenly spotted E as this long-haired, organic-salad-eating, phatty-drop-taken, dawn patroler.

I can't confirm what he eats but he shaved his head. So, whoever you thought you saw, you didn't. Got it?

Paul B, funny you went to Himalayas after surfing Waikiki. That is like surfing Cowells this weekend then going to Sloat. Good work though. I have surfed over there a bit but too much fear/respect/fear/lack-of-balls/etc. to hit it when it is that x-large over there. Especially when I don't have a period but over there, whole new ballgame. Reef = damaged nugg

Yo E... Check your email re: Green Lantern....

go e!

(jeez rolins was so skinny back then)

ok. that's cool sharkbait. i'll be the droopy day-old, wilted organic salad surfer! You can be the crazy bad-ass lip-crunching sinus-imploding body-smackin soul vixen surfer.

Update on the sea conditions...

"...FORECAST SEAS UP TO 40 FEET...WITH POSSIBLE ROGUE WAVES TO AN AMAZING 50 FEET..."

kaiser,

Weather is turning here on Oahu. Overcast, cloudy and a major rain storm is forcast to hit Friday with 40-50 mph SW Konas hitting town side. Huge NW swell arriving Friday, but might get messed up with the leeward side wind acceleration (leeward side being the northshore on a kona). I'll keep my fingers crossed for you it cleans up when you get here.

Bells Beach brah! Gotta get to Bells Beach for the 50 year storm.... Biggest waves ever eh Brodie.

Damn, shit is hitting the fan soon eh?

bagel that pic is awesome. ian was my idol growing up.

got some sick lonely ones after work at a spot i won't name. natch!

Jeez!!

yup, shiz is hitting the fan.

saw a few sloppy waves start to roll under the sharp's pier on the way home last night. nowhere near touching it. yet, but at 30ft? they should hit it...

hard, HARD south/se winds now, rain goin' sideways, white noise of wind + waves swarming all over the reefs/rocks here...

these are the days and nights that i am glad we are 50+ yards back from the shoreline.

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