E's Surf Report: raw and stormy

I didn't check it this morning but the weather in the outer sunset was enough to keep you tucked deep within your covers. Strong, gusty south winds combined with a tumultuous 13ft 7sec swell seem to have things considerably mucked up out there. A deep -1 low tide around 4 this afternoon could be of interest to some. The papa buoy is currently going bananas at 26ft 13seconds, and according to Blakestah we're in for a week of pounding winter swells. geez. a little bit different from the surf i enjoyed all weekend.

Saturday: Drove for a while then lucked into a high-performance pointbreak with only one other surfer for about an hour. Soon the hordes descended but not before i snagged 10 or 12 set waves. Caught some thick, slabby, high-performance waves but also was thrown to the bottom a few times while trying to take off too deep. Then i drove down to LA.

Sunday: woke up in Brentwood, drove down Sunset Blvd to the ocean.
I wasn't quite aware of the tremendously gifted coastal contours of northern LA county. A string of point and reef breaks stretches from Sunset all the way out to County Line. On sunday morning i drove past a mushy, hyper-crowded but spread-out Sunset point. Other than Cowells and Waikiki Sunset might be the most perfect beginner wave i've ever seen. Long, slow and easy. Then I watched some faster, zippier lines at Topanga... kept driving past thigh-high Malibu, past some little reefs and things north of malibu point.. then i cruised out and checked a closed-out, glassy, shoulder-high zuma. I drove around the point dume peninsula and saw some peeling lines out at the point but i've heard it's a private beach so i didn't hike down there. I saw a resident SF ripper also checking out point dume but didn't say hi. What's up if you're reading this. I decided to loop back and catch a few at Topanga. Nothing amazing but so nice to surf a mellow, glassy, shoulder-high, user-friendly Southern California point break. It was tough to get waves at the main peak so i paddled north a bit and caught a bunch of rogue outside waves... not as perfect, but no jockeying. Even though it was crowded the vibe was noticeably friendlier and mellower than our local spots. I witnessed some rippy surfing too.. Some of those guys were small wave maestros who knew how to manipulate the point-break crowd.

Monday: Left LA in the morning, drove up to Oxnard and surfed an infamous beach break that i've been wanting to check out for years. Known for its vehement localism, i tried to park stategically and keep a low profile. Immediately upon glancing at the mile-long stretch of beach between two jetties i saw why surfers might want to protect this place. The waves were going ballistic. Picture-perfect head-high bowls were peeling and snarling and grinding all up and down the stretch. Real glassy and manageable though, not crazy punishing like OB. I mean, i took some beatings while on the inside after rides, but there weren't rows and rows of kill-you white-water to deal with. Top-notch surfing was going down too, airs, gaffs, barrels. I've never experiences such an accessible, high-performance beach-break. I mean, fuck, this place was working so good. Needless to say i was amping in the parking lot and quickly suited up and paddled out to a less populated stretch of lineup. This was probably my best session of 2004. I caught about 30 or 40 rides in about 2.5 hours, 20 of which were steep, glassy, racy, down-the-line excursions. The waves were shaped so well and were such peaky A-frames that you were almost guaranteed a punchy section to have-at. Damn. and the water was warmer than here too. real nice..

After the session i stopped in Ventura and checked a shoulder-high California Street. geez. C-street has to be one of the longest point-breaks in America. If a huge, correctly angled swell lit that place up... damn.. The surf didn't lure me so i ate at Tony's pizza shack and continued driving up toward Santa Barbara. I began getting excited upon seeing Rincon island and when i rounded the bend in the road and saw the Queen of the Coast i felt comforted deep within. She wasn't giant, but LOOOOONGGG, perfect, shoulder-high, barrely waves were reeling around her hub like sequencial spokes of a wheel. I pulled into the lot and was surprised to see it not that crowded. Ran down the good-viby trail then ran all the way around the point to the top above of the creek and paddled out. It was slightly slim-pickens out there but unbelievable waves were still pulsing in. I didn't really catch my dream wave during the session but pulled into 4 or 5 racing walls that turned into closeout barrels. I also sauntered in to a handful of pumping, sprinty waves were i had to stay high and on-top-of-shit just to beat the sections. So fun!! damn! that wave is sooooooo good. jesus. One big set came through during my 1.5 hour session that linked all the way from the top of the point down to the cove near the highway. It was only a two wave set. A longboarder rode the first and then a shorboarder the second. I counted over twenty lip-bashes for the shortboarder! no joke. can you imagine.
anyway.. it was a dream just to surf that place and to paddle into a few regular-foot fantasy waves. So mellow out there too.. absolutely no duck-diving required. A few ladies on longboards were owning the inside section. Walking the nose, side-stepping, drop-knee turns, floaters. It was inspiring.

soo.. shiit.. that's that.

i received an email from Bad Vibe Bob (big red board, gets lots of rides, someone mentioned him the other day on the blog and he emailed me). He sounds like a chill dude and mentioned he might be down for an interview.. soo.. hopefully i'll send him a few questions and then post up his answers.

word - what happened around here this weekend? any surf? pollution?

Topanga

C-street

rincon

Hmmm-
First Scallan and now Truelove. Tell Little Bobby there's a certain Park Ranger that would like to have a word with him regarding assault and evasion. We're so looking forward to your interview.

Posted by: nonlocal at February 17, 2004 10:03 AM

California Dreaming-e Thanks for the visions-- So Cal, so dirty yet so sweet. Looks best from the ocean.

Posted by: steama at February 17, 2004 10:08 AM

Mexicsurf, I will likely be going to Costa Rica April 2-9th, email me if you still need someone to stop by the place.
Ah, finally got to surf again this weekend-in the Gulf... My parents moved to Bradenton Beach near Tampa. There was some small surf to be had on a rainy Saturday-sooo good to be in the water again.
E, that sounds like an awesome trip!
PS Where is sharkbait?!

Posted by: welle at February 17, 2004 10:37 AM

Steama, you said it best! E, sounds like good times man! Of course, this whole week I have off from my afternoon job, and we're hit with gnar-storm. Oh well, maybe I'll get a fun little left point protected from some winds :D And not the SF one.. We should get a community photo page going, everyone can just upload photos. Anyone have a server for them? ok, off to school.

Posted by: Ian at February 17, 2004 10:40 AM

'sup E.
Great little surf trip. The Queen treated me well a couple months ago. Love that break. That's a great shot of Rincon.

Posted by: bandini at February 17, 2004 11:40 AM

sounds just like what a drive south should include. surf, surf, point breaks and good times. good on ya.

i put in with my friend early on sunday morning. we were the only ones in the water down at second lot sloat for about a hour or two. waves were good. paddle was easy except for the shore pound. easily DOH on sets, so many fun peaks. i was riding my girl's 7'8" fun shape cause my other boards are being shaped and glassed. whew, dropping in on those set waves with a board like that was quite a trip. so used boards with less foam. regardless, it was a righteous session. some dudes paddled out finally and we decided to call it a sesh. the dolphins and seals were out too. took some real good OB beatings after some really fun long rides. worth it all the way.

hope all niceness peeps had a good weekend.
cheers.

Posted by: elias at February 17, 2004 11:52 AM

elias. i ran into your boy Jason Joyce last night and he said that you've been shaping boards lately!? Are you riding your own boards? what's the deal?

nice on the solo sloat big-wave mission sunday.

Posted by: e at February 17, 2004 11:54 AM

g'damn...nice weekend, e. i can't even imagine catching 30 or 40 waves in a session! no surf for me, but i came home to a message that my board is fixed. yeeheeeheee...

christian asked about sharkbait last week, too; she was heading off on a trip (back today?) and her computer was having a kiniption just before she left. send your techy good vibes her way!

Posted by: friendly at February 17, 2004 11:55 AM

Raindrops literally started smattering my windshield when I pulled in on Sunday and as we all know, it kept going from there. Am I a storm magnet??

Mid OB Sweep and as Usual, Stupendously Accurate Surf Report: waves crossed up and averaging up 214 feet, wind holding steady at 74 mph with gusts up to 312 mph, 14" of rain so far, most of it flying perfectly parallel to the ground. I feel like I'm drowning just by looking outside! Going to keep eyes peeled for postings later ?, the drains are really gurgling. Ai caramba!

So great to be back. Now if only I can surf! 4 sessions since the 4 months out. Injury gone. Pushups feel silly. New wetsuit dry. Come on..come on conditions..schedule....must....work..together... oh please!

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at February 17, 2004 12:00 PM

nice report sharkbait.

oh yeah.. a few typically LA things happened over the weekend too. I was out at a bar on sunset strip on sunday night and noticed quite a few breast augmentations. This one cute, otherwise petite women was sporting ridiculously bulbous melons and had them out on display for all to gaze at. My friends and i were discussing what her situation will like be when she's 55 and her back is all fucked from the extra weight. Plus can you imagine her as your girlfriend and introducing her to your friends or family.. with these giant faux mammaries right in their face. I've never seen so many fake boobies before. LA!

Posted by: e at February 17, 2004 12:09 PM

nice triplog, e. setup at ss is incredible, i was there for y2k new year's weekend back when i was a beginner longboarder, didn't even realize what i was dealing with, and left with a snapped longboard and a fin-gash to the shin, just mm from the bone.

after a short visit to the midwest on TH-FR, i opted for the shretty on sat as the tide filled-in, after spending about 20 mins thinking about going out at 2nd lot sloat. still not quite sure if i made the best choice as the middle-outer bars looked clean and pretty makeable, though sparse. but i did manage one memorably gaugey 3-turn left, and had fun watching a few of the young hmbay locals landing airs.

on sunday i went out at a local left-point where it was breaking about chest high and managed to get 7 or 8 decent waves to myself despite the sparse-but-possessive crowd. one guy (named john?) was out, seemed to have an audience watching him as he abandoned his broken board for long stretches, swimming and body surfing from deep inside, occasionally hooting at any surfers taking off near him. wasn't sure what to think - kinda strange and maybe even reckless, but also kinda impressive.

Posted by: loon at February 17, 2004 12:24 PM

from pacificwaverider

Posted by: e at February 17, 2004 12:30 PM

e sounds like you scored down south this weekend.

I visited that same Oxnard beach break for a week in December for the first time. I had some of the my most memorable rides ever at that beach. You hit it dead-on as to how it just serves up sweet glassy waves that are oh-so user friendly. Locals weren't too argo when I was there, but saw some amazing performances by the local groms. It helps to explain how guys that grow up around there rip so hard.

Posted by: d looose at February 17, 2004 12:35 PM

e- jjoyce is such a good guy. so full of energy, he had some awesome stories about his surf trip to panama this year.

anyway, about shaping, yup im all fired up about it. it adds something to surfing that i've been missing all these years. good stuff. i'm awaiting a call from the glasser, soon after i'll be on my first uber custom foam. i'll give you a shout out when i get it back.

let me know next time you head down to the central coast, we could rendezvous with joyce and hit up the beach and catch some sliders!

peace.

Posted by: elias at February 17, 2004 01:00 PM

welle, My computer is acting a little funny, can you email me. I want to design some additions to the house but need some detailed pics of the whole place and surrounding property. Let me know if you can help... P

Posted by: mexisurf at February 17, 2004 01:10 PM

right on elias.. I'd be down with a central coast cruise. I love the SLO area.

best in show at Westminster dog show

Posted by: e at February 17, 2004 01:15 PM

What up with the dog?

as for surf, I went fishing all weekend. Picked up my fishing gear on Saturday morning in northern SC and was fired up. Fished Lindy on Sat. Fished a nice point on Sun. Marco and I fished during 30-40 mph winds again at Lindy yesterday. I like fishing, its good fun. Can't wait to fish all summer...

Posted by: Kaiser at February 17, 2004 01:53 PM

Saw some folks were inquiring last week about the Warewolf's Fish, so here are some pix:

http://www.shutterfly.com/osi.jsp?i=67b0de21b34b796005e0

Unbelievable effort for only his 2nd board!

Posted by: Marco Esquandoles at February 17, 2004 02:05 PM

Speaking of fishing... last week I saw a local fisherman pull in a 25 lb striper right out of the surf. The fish was 3 1/2 feet long! Impressive.

Posted by: dano at February 17, 2004 02:29 PM

Great Weekend Stories E...

...toaday I am califonia deaming in california no less!!!!!!

was last week a dream?

Posted by: Phil Young at February 17, 2004 02:32 PM

nice job e! LA county represent, repre-sent sent. San Fransicsco represent repre-sent sent. when the mic is in my hand, im never hesitant. my favorite jam back in the day was eric b for president.

-tribe

Posted by: bagel at February 17, 2004 02:40 PM

sick

nice barrel shot, too bad the sponger had to ruin it :)

just got back from a "waveless in seattle" weekend. fun times but i need some waves stat!

Posted by: bbr at February 17, 2004 02:43 PM

As long as we're talking travel...

I have to go to Malaysia this summer on business and as long as the company is picking up the airfare to get me that far I figure I might as well take some vacation time and get some surfing in. Indo is the obvious choice but I'd be up for anywhere in the vicinity including N. Oz but excluding the Phillipines. No Abu Sayaaf for me please.

The problem is finding someplace suitable for my slowly developing skills. I'm a big goofyfoot, mostly longboard, some funboard, surf Pacifica, Indicators, 3 mile, and Sloat when it's like it was last week (small and clean).

Any suggestions on where to go, where to stay, where to rent boards, etc?

Posted by: Hrothbart at February 17, 2004 02:47 PM

no way e, can't believe you were doing the topanga so cal thing (awesome isn't it). thought I was the only one lucky enough to get away from the northern storms over the weekend.

did Rincon at sunset Friday experienced waist to chest high long rides into the darkness. then awoke at Miramar beach Saturday morn to the sound of increaesed energy slapping the shore..paddled out and caught some ultra clean and sweet long long long longboard rides with the nino's ...three sessions on Saturday.

Was intrigued by the view up the cost of the reef point break, which I will not disclose that is named after a woman with six kids and no husband that built mansion on the site at the turn of the century and happens to be referred to by Mr. Wright, in his book 'California Surfing' as the best winter surf in all of the Santa Barbara area,....it was totally worthy of Bank's descriptive praise....going off as they say.

swell dropped a little on Sunday but paddled out to the "best" ...enjoyed a great vibe ...shoulder to head high perfection and only a six to eight fellow aquanauts....oh,, sweet long rights.

worth every moment of the time spent behind the wheel on 101 to get down there to sunshine and tasty waves....yeah, yeah ....f'n yeah

Posted by: big mig at February 17, 2004 03:28 PM

nice work big mig

santa cruz seth found these at scottwiner.com

Posted by: e at February 17, 2004 03:33 PM

indo

cali

hawaii

Posted by: e at February 17, 2004 03:36 PM

on bali, i found alot of the reef breaks, (ulu, impossibles, bingin, shipwrecks, etc.) really challenging for a nor cal surfer who is used to mushier, slower more forgiving breaks. i found medewi to be the spot of choice if you wanted someplace that would challenge but not kill you. it's a long, rocky left. steep and fast, but makeable on a longboard, i think. if i went back i would probably just head straight there, check into a losmen and chill. maybe go up to the penninsula for the last part of my trip, so that if i got cut bad by the reef, at least i'd be on my way home. anyway, it's a beautiful island full of beautiful people and they need our tourist dollars to get the econ back on it's feet. so if your in the neighborhood, i say, go for it.

Posted by: steamwand at February 17, 2004 04:11 PM

e you brought back a lot of memories with your trip log. I used to have a buddy who's family had a boat in Channel Islands harbor and we would go down there (as groms) and try to surf the unnamed spot. I distinctly remember some incredible days there (and at HBTS on the other side). I also remember getting vibed hard as 14 year old by some of the chicas on one particular day. We were young enough to fly below the radar of the big boys, but damn these girls let us have it. good times.

Posted by: jdz at February 17, 2004 04:21 PM

and gawd damn ain't that socal water warm!!!!

Posted by: jdz at February 17, 2004 04:23 PM

hopefully this will be lerm and i in a few months

Posted by: e at February 17, 2004 04:42 PM

i was catching the white waves up at kirkwood this weekend with my lady. found some wind blown stashes off the saddle that had some amazing banks to throw carves on. this storm is a bit warm - sure hope that it doesn't ruin the snow.

good on ya e getting those ventura lines!

Posted by: caveman at February 17, 2004 04:54 PM

Just got back from surfing probably the only surfable spot on our part of the coast. INSANELY hard off shores, to the point where most waves seemed impossible to catch. You had to take off super late, but they were no more than chest/head high so it was not intimidating. The wind held the power back for the most part at this spot where barreling nuggets presented themselves over a very shallow rock bed, and heaving mostly close-out barrels over shallow sand bars. Me, a friend, a longboarder, and one other shortboarder were the only ones out! It started raining so hard that with the combined offshores that were 6-7 ft. high it was just a constant mist for most of the time! I hit the bottom on 2 waves because rocks were only aprox. 3 ft. below and I hit my shoulder, but luckily I hit a patch where it was sand, and not rocks. Over all it was a VERY fun sesh considering I wasn't expecting to get any waves! Very surprised no one else was out! No fancy moves, just fun riding, pulled into to some nugs but didn't come out. stoked!

Posted by: Ian at February 17, 2004 05:03 PM

Ian, you rock. Congrats on being part of the few and the proud today!

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at February 17, 2004 05:45 PM

Proud and beat.
I hit bottom 20 yards off the ledge and it was not Rhino?
Watch the rocks. Take no chances.
Let the past localism be just that - the past.
I know too much.
Best thing for the new people surfing here is to let go of the past. True love lives on an island very far away from here.
Was that "Doc" and Grant surfing the Point yesterday????????????

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send me lots of surf pics please

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