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infrequent bombs

laaate report..

Big but not huge.. biggest faces about double overhead.
light offshore.
thin crown from Taraval to second lot sloat.
glassy.
butterflies in stomach when decision is made to surf.
5 or 6 wave sets breaking top-to-bottom on the outer bars.. then backing off.

two hour session for me this morning on Caveman's 10yr old 7'4" minigun. (Caveman - you da man!!) I luckily squeeked through the shorepound with almost dry hair but then got absolutely crunched by 5 giant set waves as i nearly got out before they started breaking... but didn't. My board got clean ripped from my hands and i ended up doing the Robme breathing technique to stay calm and hold it together. It was a little scary.. But then outside.. waiting.. waiting.. waiting.. Kaiser gets one.. waiting.. waiting.. waiting.. i paddle like mad for one but just can't get into it.. then... waiting.. waiting... waiting.. waiting.. waiting.. fucking waiting forever.. I see other folk hooking into rides.. but.. i didn't even paddle for another wave for 45 minutes!! didn't even paddle for one!! for some reason i just couldn't get near one of the breaking waves.. always 200 yards to the north or south.. you know how it is.. Needless to say i was feelin' the pangs and suffering from some serious wave repellent.. there were beautiful, fantasy waves feathering and peeling and doing the mini-mavericks thing. But.. finally.. this big, meaty set-wave comes loping in for me.. A few paddles and i'm over the ledge and taking off backside.. I start descending and the thing tries to buck me off but i kind-of hold it together and end up with a long, fun drop.. but no shoulder.. still a fun wave and i broke the wave-repellent hex. cool to hear Kaiser hooting from the inside. then more waiting.. waiting.. waiting.. waiting.. another 30 minutes go by.. this one longboarder has snagged maybe 8 waves in the same 30 minutes that i came close to zero. arggh!! but.. today was a good day to have a log out there as the waves were difficult to get into. I then saw Christian paddle out.. turns out he snapped his leash on the way out and had to swim back to shore for another.. d'oh! then i see him try to take off in the white-water of a sizeable wave.. almost held on but not quite.. a valient attempt!! soo.. meanwhile. i've been out there for two hours with only one wave to my name!! grrr.. soo.. i'm frothing and just ready to paddle into anything.. and i'm also late for work.. but.. i just wanted to catch one of those delicious looking glassy, long-peeling bombs that consistently proved just out of reach. Soo.. eventually this macker set wave comes and i'm paddling like a rabid banshee to get over the fucking ledge. spray and spit from the offshores are all whipping in my face and blinding me but i just keep paddling as hard as i can.. still not getting in.. this beast of a wave is growing and growling and getting steeper and taller and steeper underneath me.. finally i somehow found a little ramp and got in.. popped to my feet.. and.. yeeesssss.. finally.. a huge, 8ft+? face... long.. tapering.. looonnnggass ride.. two or three elongated big wave mid-face turns and cutbacks.. the wave flattens out but then rebowls for me near the inside and i'm pumping and a little scared that the whole thing is going to suck up and bury me.. but.. it ends up mushing out and i paddle in on my belly.. not before getting annihilated for good measure by the shorepound..

soo.. pretty typical outer bar OB sweetness..

if the wind holds off it should be good all day??

e

e-good on ya for doin it. Um, I think that longboarder coulda been me. I was out from 7:30 - 8:45. Some nice clean waves today. Caught some long ones that looked like they might shut down but held up and eventually backed off in the middle. A little mushy but really fun. My favorite moment was sailing past Doof on my last wave in. He's paddling like mad to get in and I just sort of glide by him on a thick sleighride and we hoot at each other. Then....the shorebreak jacks and I leap off into the pounding. FUN!

Posted by: kdalle at February 6, 2004 12:26 PM

e - great report. Reminds me of me about 2 years after I moved here. I used to sit out there and watch kdalle get lots of waves....

Posted by: blakestah at February 6, 2004 12:27 PM

e, way to be out there today. Sounds like you might have gotten a couple of good leash climbs in. I went out for a bit, but it was fairly inconsistent as far as size. Stuff breaking inside, then flat then total closeout. Some ok waves, but some work.

Posted by: dano at February 6, 2004 12:30 PM

Damn, and I thought I had the first post!

Posted by: dano at February 6, 2004 12:31 PM

nice patience, e. looks like it paid off as that last ride sounds like the type you'll recall with fondness when sitting out in windswell slop with onshores ragin' in July. ; )

friendly and i watched Sliz for a while and almost hit it, but then turned south (with our tails between our legs? ; ). the outside was offering up some risiculous-lookin' bombs, but it also looked like wave-repellent could have been an issue (not to mention the paddle!). we hoped to score Schlockaway, but it was flizzat! so...over the hill to grandma's cove for some surprisingly small waves given the pretty solid 300 degree swell. still...the sun was out and fun was had.

to all you heads who hit the beach....good on ya! i look forward to hearin' more outer-bar tales!

Posted by: ck at February 6, 2004 12:49 PM

right on kdalle.. I think i saw you stroke into a few.. but.. i was referring to this tall, hooded longboarder with a multi-colored board.. who was basically paddling laps around me as he got ride after ride and i got squat.

i think i need more foam.

someone just emailed about the robme breathing technique..

robme breathing/relaxation technique:
When you're getting pounded and find yourself ragdolling or deep underwater.. just start counting slowly to 20.. Sllooowwwlly.. it'll help keep you from panicking and will center you, psychologically.

Posted by: e at February 6, 2004 12:49 PM

We're still watching kdalle catch lots of waves.

I think the Longboarder was on a clown board yellow, red, then something else in big diagonal bands, am I right.

I don't know how he got that through the shorebreak. I spent a full 15 minutes bailing, pulling my board in to position it so it don't snap, then bailing, repeat infinitum.

Finally get a lull and power to the outside.

I was feeling beat from the get go, but eventually got into a few. After the tough trip out, I was tentative when I should have been aggressive. Gog waves but pulled back on several that I am wishing I went on now that I am typing.

Oh Well.

E - was your big drop a left that you had to rail grab to get around a section? I thought I saw a surfer that might be you, but no brown board. Caveman's is white, n'est pas?

Posted by: Friend #1 at February 6, 2004 12:53 PM

friend #1.. yup.. i think that's the same multi-colored logger.

i did grab rail on that left.. but not really to get around a section... or maybe?? i just remember a steep drop and then a bump in the face that tried to buck me off.. but.. i grabbed rail a little and held on.. then i just kind-of went strait down the line for a second before the wave petered. yeah.. Caveman's board is white.. pointy mini-gun thing.

Posted by: e at February 6, 2004 12:57 PM

I've been doing that counting thing for years - is "robme" some name you or your buddies made up or is that an actual, like clinical name like the Rorshach test or Heimlicm maneuver.

Posted by: Brian D at February 6, 2004 12:58 PM

I've been doing that counting thing for years - is "robme" some name you or your buddies made up or is that an actual, like clinical name like the Rorshach test or Heimlicm maneuver.

Posted by: Brian D at February 6, 2004 12:58 PM

I've been doing that counting thing for years - is "robme" some name you or your buddies made up or is that an actual, like clinical name like the Rorshach test or Heimlicm maneuver.

Posted by: Brian D at February 6, 2004 12:58 PM

I've been doing that counting thing for years - is "robme" some name you or your buddies made up or is that an actual, like clinical name like the Rorshach test or Heimlicm maneuver.

Posted by: Brian D at February 6, 2004 12:58 PM

I've been doing that counting thing for years - is "robme" some name you or your buddies made up or is that an actual, like clinical name like the Rorshach test or Heimlicm maneuver.

Posted by: Brian D at February 6, 2004 12:58 PM

I've been doing that counting thing for years - is "robme" some name you or your buddies made up or is that an actual, like clinical name like the Rorshach test or Heimlicm maneuver.

Posted by: Brian D at February 6, 2004 12:58 PM

I've been doing that counting thing for years - is "robme" some name you or your buddies made up or is that an actual, like clinical name like the Rorshach test or Heimlicm maneuver.

Posted by: Brian D at February 6, 2004 12:58 PM

I've been doing that counting thing for years - is "robme" some name you or your buddies made up or is that an actual, like clinical name like the Rorshach test or Heimlicm maneuver.

Posted by: Brian D at February 6, 2004 12:58 PM

I've been doing that counting thing for years - is "robme" some name you or your buddies made up or is that an actual, like clinical name like the Rorshach test or Heimlicm maneuver.

Posted by: Brian D at February 6, 2004 12:58 PM

Wow - brian d - you got a bad case of the stutters - next time just hit post once, go get some coffey, and then read on.

Posted by: blakestah at February 6, 2004 01:02 PM

anyone seen the beach lately???
looks like South winds are on the rise. debating splitting work in the next 30min - 1 hour. wondering if the window has slammed shut.....any help?

Posted by: dsx at February 6, 2004 01:02 PM

Damn blakestah, that post made me laugh so hard I blew out my big bite of burrito. I’m cleaning rice from my the depths of my keyboard with a bent-up paper clip. Good burrito, too.

Posted by: Ace at February 6, 2004 01:16 PM

I saw the guy on the rainbow board but he didn't catch so many when I was near by. The kdalle repellant effect in action!

e-by charging it today it's obvious you are ready to go to the next level. Get yourself a bigger board. I remember well the increased confidence as soon as I moved up to a 7-10 x 2 5/8 gun shape. Keep in mind, you can't lay down a full rail turn or pull in if you don't catch waves. The loss in maneuveribility is less in large waves than the glide factor and line you choose. The main issue is getting out, getting in position and catching waves.

Posted by: kdalle at February 6, 2004 01:17 PM

dsx, there are places shielded from south winds...

I suspect the beach will stay quite rideable though - even a little bump keeps the crowds down a lot. Swell should drop to 4@14 sec, so it'll be a piece of cake to paddle out (says he with the wounded shoulder and dry wetsuit)

Posted by: blakestah at February 6, 2004 01:17 PM

looking pretty eggy. sw wind bump, still not working on the outside bars, overloading on the inside. maybe it will glass but I'm thinking its done for the day.

Posted by: at February 6, 2004 01:18 PM

thanks Blake, i always debate the south winds spots and always usually get disapppointed.
the protected spots are generally not that fun for me. i'll take a nice 8-10' day at OB with a little bump over glassed offshores 4' at our favorite taco bell.

Posted by: dsx at February 6, 2004 01:31 PM

yeah, OK, it was just north of taco bell, but there is nothing like DP in the sunshine...woo!

life and times at lindy were fun, though the tail between my legs did get in the way a bit. ;) i caught a quartet of solid ramps and got to watch ck work a few snaps. he dropped into a sparkling set wave della mar--which of course detonated 35m in each direction milliseconds thereafter--but it was brilliant. quintessential lindy! for whatever that's worth.

anyway: all you generous board loaners--ck, nate, sharkbait--you rock!! muchisimas gracias. i think mine will be done soon...

Posted by: friendly at February 6, 2004 01:53 PM

I think I saw your wave then e.

Do you recall someone hooting from the inside on your drop? It wasn't me, but some dude on the inside was letting it rip.

Your hair has darkened a bit, or perhaps it just gets dark when wet.

I was on the white bonzer fun board (not really a fun board but it has a rounded nose). No hood and blue/black wetsuit.

Posted by: Friend #1 at February 6, 2004 01:53 PM

I think I saw your wave then e.

Do you recall someone hooting from the inside on your drop? It wasn't me, but some dude on the inside was letting it rip.

Your hair has darkened a bit, or perhaps it just gets dark when wet.

I was on the white bonzer fun board (not really a fun board but it has a rounded nose). No hood and blue/black wetsuit.

Posted by: Friend #1 at February 6, 2004 01:53 PM

e,

call up ward coffey and order up a nice ob mini gun. get it a little thicker in the middle (1/8") because ob transitions and currents require a bit more cork. ward knows how to hide the girth with his sweet rail and rocker curves. digging your commitment!

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at February 6, 2004 02:04 PM

Posse was in effect this a.m. I guess. E, great 1st wave from my vantage point in the channel. After pickin' one off, I looked back out getting set to make the journey back to the lineup and all I saw was the horizon turn a different color. Nice big ole' set wave! As I told you, it was much bigger then you most likely thought. A longboarder was dropping in and heading right as you went left "pigdoggin" all the way, of course!

Seemed like the waves were either super bombs or super mushy. Either too fast on the bottom to paddle into or chucking from the lip too much to even want to go. Whatever. It was nice to have some clean, rideable size out there for a change!

Kdalle, what were you riding out there? We must have paddled in circles around one another.

As for the Coffey rec., I completely agree to the "more foam" factor for ya. I was on my 7'0" he shaped me and I would have given anything for another foot of board. I guess that might have to wait until next year (by then, maybe my other order will be done!).

Christian, nice to see ya surfing w/ us mortals at the beach. Hope your second half was better for you. That inside section was a death pit today. Whats up with it?

Posted by: Kaiser at February 6, 2004 02:21 PM

Next weeks report from Surfline:

Friday,Feb 6: 4-7 ft. - shoulder high to 2 ft. overhead occasionally 9 ft. and fair conditions.

Saturday,Feb 7: 4-7 ft. - shoulder high to 2 ft. overhead occasionally 10 ft. and poor-fair conditions.

Sunday,Feb 8: 4-6 ft. - shoulder high to 1 ft. overhead occasionally 8 ft. and fair conditions.

Monday,Feb 9: 3-5 ft. - waist to head high occasionally 6 ft. and fair-good conditions.

Tuesday,Feb 10: 3-5 ft. - waist to head high occasionally 7 ft. and fair-good conditions.

As Blakestah would say, "plan around it!"

Posted by: Kaiser at February 6, 2004 02:23 PM

Kdalle was on his custom made Stewart that I think is like 8 6 or something. He was hogging -oops - I mean ruling the Fleishacker peak. Seemed like there was a trail of heads leading back towards the Vicente pumphouse. I kept paddling South but had trouble getting to that southern Peak. Kdalle with his loggun, and the Rainbow rider had an easier time moving around on the outside. Hence more rides.

Had I been less cautious, I would have been riding almost as many. Too many waves I thought I was too deep to get around. Have to remember how much more time you have on these longer period waves.

Maybe I will get some practice next week.

Posted by: Friend #1 at February 6, 2004 02:37 PM

nice job e!..sounds sweet, got over a little hump, man i gotta do that..still dont know if i want to get crazier than my 7'0" can handle but your story is inspiring..looks like tomorrow is the best day to go to the mountains..

Posted by: bagel at February 6, 2004 02:38 PM

cool.. christian and friend #1.. you two saw my only waves today! crazy. that guy yelling on the inside was Kaiser.

friend #1.. i'm trying to recall who you might be based on your description but can't place any particular faces to it.. hmm...

yeah.. now that i'm starting to get the taste for the outer bars.. it would be nice to have some more foam..

Posted by: e at February 6, 2004 02:39 PM

e...I have a 8'0" Roger Hinds (a lot more foam)that you are welcome to borrow. Things have been crazy for me lately and the thing is just gathering dust in me garage...shoot me an email if you are interested.

jdz

Posted by: jdz at February 6, 2004 02:49 PM

Today I was hoodless with grey/brown short hair in my blue sleeved aleeda. Riding a 8 foot egg looking white board. The only mark on it is the Eaton logo that I look straight down on when I am positioned right.

If you watched from the bluff, I was the about the third one to enter the water, and I spent 10 to 15 minutes in the impact zone right in front of the first lot.

Unfortunately the shorepound dance was my most notible manuever today. I did get several rides but no big bombs today.

Posted by: Friend #1 at February 6, 2004 02:51 PM

that kdalle Stewart is a 9'6".

My e board rec. You're probably not mentally ready to buy an 8 footer - get something like 7'8" to 7'10". 19 inches wide (or 19.5), and 2 3/4" thick. Ward or John Schultze can take the rest from there, I like a gentle vee into a flat tail, down rails in back, slightly rounded pin...it'll handle days like today with ease...

Posted by: blakestah at February 6, 2004 03:03 PM

9
F
U
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K
I
N
G
6

Posted by: Friend #1 at February 6, 2004 03:17 PM

that little extra float allows you to plane that much sooner. taking off that much deeper. consider adding about 10lbs to your actual weight when you tell a shaper how much you weigh. espicially by ward cuz he himself is a wirey ripper and his shapes often ooze the creators likeness.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at February 6, 2004 03:21 PM

e - glad you got some on the old mini-gun this morning!

i paddled out at rivera with a huge heaping of wave repellant poured on my head, body, surfboard nearby vacinity. nobody else was out through the aves and it was hard to judge where the outer bars were breaking until a set would rear up and give me an indication - usually on my head. current was super fast on the outside, waves were either mush or steep, always breaking - just - a - little - ways - off. a bit irritating for me this morning. ah well.

tomorrow, tomorrow, there's always tomorrow, it's only a day away.

Posted by: caveman at February 6, 2004 03:24 PM

Caveman - do you drive a silvery japanese sedan with a double rack on the top?

Posted by: Friend #1 at February 6, 2004 03:27 PM

For 6 years, I rode a 7'9 T&C gun with the dimensions Blakestah mentioned. It was great for all but +2OH days. I weighed about 168 at the time. Wish I was back there again...

I sold it through Wise and saw it on the top of a black 70'ish Benz in a driveway around 44th and Santiago.

Posted by: Dennis at February 6, 2004 03:53 PM

Kaiser-I was on an old 9'-8'" clear Stewart gun. OK guys, let the old man have his fun with the Destroyer™. Hey, it's not even the biggest board I have.

I have to do a better job of saying hello to you guys but I'm not sure what you all look like, ride or drive. I'm easy to spot, look for the biggest friggin board with the shortest guy ridin it.

Posted by: kdalle at February 6, 2004 04:00 PM

9
F
U
N
K
I
N
G
8
!

Posted by: Friend #1 at February 6, 2004 04:13 PM

cool pic from blakestah's site

Posted by: e at February 6, 2004 04:20 PM

damn. (slappy garcia)

Posted by: e at February 6, 2004 04:59 PM

friend #1 - yep. that's me. forester with thule racks for my long/fun board (that doesn't get much use nowadays) and surfrider sticker on the back.

Posted by: caveman at February 6, 2004 05:00 PM

Wow, that last pic from Blakestah's site is incredible. Who's surfing tomorrow? Water might be poopy from the rain?

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In your free time, check the pages in the field of- Tons of interesdting stuff!!!

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