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If you enjoy the fundemental activity of catching waves: anticipating their movement, predicting their eventual character, positioning yourself accordingly. If you like feeling that strange, oceanic pulse of energy accelerate you from underneath. If you savor the vision of that glittering, smooth, delicious, unbroken wave-face ahead of you. If you like popping to your feet, then beginning that down-the-line voyage, pumping for speed, checking off the top, smoothing off the bottom. If you like setting up that final move, gathering and harnessing subtle vectors of propagated waveform energy, then exploding with a final expression off the close-out section... If you like all those things.. you might've enjoyed the surf this morning.
However.. if you like a tight, follow-the-leader crowd of floundering, naive-but-stoked wave riders mixed in with a smattering of talented dudes... if you like a cornicopia of visible particulates floating in the water, getting in your mouth and ears, churning, obviously dirty water.. If you're of the sort that gains nourishment from hunting for peeling corners amongst the vast majority of closouts. If you enjoy the sight of mysterious boils and noises, probably eminating from our penniped cousins. If you like all those things.. there are some waves for you out there this monrning.
but.. the strait dirt..
OB - looked better on my way back.. near second lot sloat. nobody out. GLassy.. head-high. slightly messy but cleaning up by the minute. Offshores..
Rockaway - eh. doable. saw one nice wave in about 10 minutes of watching. the north end actually looked somewhat attractive.
Lindy - in front of the pump-house crowded but peeling (sort-of). Saw some excellent sections at the far north end on my way home. looked fun.
Schweet..
Karma - the good you do will come back to you. The bad you do will come back to haunt. No doubt. Give those old chinese ladies who look so grumpy a smile. Think about what it would be like to be ancient, enfeebled and angry. that would suck! If you're healthy give thanks. So many people are living in pain. How much would it suck to feel pain with every step, with every breath. Fuuck.. my own troubles and issues pale in comparison. Think about all the angry and unhappy people out there. Can you imagine being born into a situation where your dad is out of the picture, or drunk and violent. Your mom is stout of heart, but poor and struggling. She tries to make it but ends up drinking too much and on welfare. Your education, happiness and childhood freedom take a back seat to paying the rent and getting some food. Mcdonalds, white-bread and mayo abound. Your mom gets pissed and beats you. You see other kids at school who seem blissfully unaware of the pain and struggle of your life. You grow resentful and hateful. You start to lash out. You feel this unbridled anger boiling deep down. You assume a social role of deviant and troublemaker. You have problems escaping that role. In and out of juviline detention centers. Fights. Gangs. Hard-drugs. You get a girl pregnant and repeat the cycle.
Don't take your life for granted! We're the lucky ones.
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Posted by: bbr at January 28, 2004 10:53 AMe, do you know max erhmann? look him up when you have a sec. "desiderata" is the collection of thoughts you're after. it's kinda long, or i'd post it.
you have to figure there are two ways to look at life...from no matter where you are standing.
Posted by: friendly at January 28, 2004 11:36 AMalso...i had the coolest dream last night. i was surfing in water that was the color and opacity of tempera paint. in a good way. all these perfect rollers were made out of vibrant reds, oranges and blues--it was awesome!!
Posted by: friendly at January 28, 2004 11:39 AMHey now!
Posted by: kdalle at January 28, 2004 11:42 AMSoloed (sic) Sloat from 7:30-8:45. Mean gurgling shorepound but surprisingly smooth outside. Nice overhead peaks would feather and peel at the peak and mush out midway in. Caught a few and off to work. When I left no one was heading out.
OB: It...SHOULD be working..it's like it's almost been working all day but not...quite...there. I'm afraid to say anything else because it keeps changing! Looked good for a bit this morning..then mixed up again. Average wave size keeps getting bigger and smaller, for some reason I am suckered into thinking it will STAY one way or the other...but no... Currently appears waist high and mushy on the inside but then some OH rollers will come whomping in. Seen a scant few surfers out, waaay out - almost mistaking them for specks on my window. oooo..one just got trounced. Anyway it's surfable but don't listen to me, this will all change in the next 5 minutes. If it really really pulls together I'll holler again. Good luck!
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at January 28, 2004 12:12 PMOB again : whoops forgot to say there's only been a light breeze today, very mild...I can't even tell which direction it's going or if it's switching about. No rain, hazy sky. Outside is majority mush with the occasional OB Ambush Board Smasher™
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at January 28, 2004 12:17 PMSame dealio that S.S. describes in the greater San Mateo area. Only difference, it never looks good, just "surfable" or "not surfable". Overall, I would give it a 2.5 at most on a scale of 10. If you need to get a wave, you can, but that is about it.
Posted by: Kaiser at January 28, 2004 01:34 PMWell, looks like we have some 14 sec juice on the bouys. Couple that with some light NW/N/NE winds overnight and in the morning and we might have some decent surf tomorrow. Whadda ya say? Can we get something here?
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