E's Surf Report: snuck a little session in

Basically a repeat of yesterday.
OB looked doable.. but the outer bars would break nicely then immediately back off. The inner bars were all jarbled and mish-mashy and fugly. Nobody paddling out at 6:45. I saw one guy trying to make it out on my way back home around 8:40.. but.. didn't see anyone outside. You could make it happen if you were feelin' it.. more power to ya!

Rockaway looked interesting.. pretty glassy.. but.. i was on turbo-speed because when I'm forced to surf Pacifica during these late, 7am sunrise days, i'm invariably late for work. Soo.. Lindy looked "eh." But i paddled out anyway in hopes of a utility session. For the crafty/creative types there were a few enjoyable sections and some makeable, walled lines. The wind was doing some weird things. Not blowing at all.. then blowing out of the NE.. then NW.. then not at all.. pretty variable. I was pretty much the first guy out.. and spent a few moments scoping the lineup for anything resembling a consistent section.. I saw what looked like a consistent corner to the otherwise closeout walls up north.. I paddled out and immediately caught two or three peeling lefts.. Not great but each offered a playful canvas. Then a few peeps paddled out.. Kaiser, Stan, some other mellow guys.. and the character of where the waves peeled continued to shift. My best rides were actually on these steep rights that looked like there would surely close-out.. but in reality ended up racing and peeling along allowing for a brief sprint of frantic pumping and the occasional turn or lip-click. On my last ride i landed the biggest off-the-lip of my life.. I was pumping down the line on an otherwise unassuming shoulder-high right.. all of a sudden the wave gulped-out and began to close. I instinctively crouched down and bottom-turn/pumped and then projected my board, tip-first, up and over the lip. I pivoted my board and kind-of lept off the lip of the wave.. I think i disengaged the fins from the wave.. then just came down with the crashing lip and rode it out. It almost felt like the beginnings of an aireal. I basically rode up to the top of the lip as the wave was crashing.. then jumped/unweighted, turned.. and came down with the wave.. It would be interesting to see a video of it.. in reality it was probably this little, sniveling, nothing turn. I probably would think to myself, "I can't believe that i exagerated that weak, wimpy turn to all the people who read the surf report." but.. in my head it felt kinda radical!

Soo.. i guess the new swell is supposed to arrive today. California buoy is at 13.5ft 17seconds..

be aware of the afternoon low-tide.. all you work-at-homes and not-work-at-alls..

enjoy!

Rincon Video from surfline (surfdad find)

any time someone hits a shoulder high close-out, unweights off the lip and rides it out--it's radical. I'll bet if you saw it on video you'd think, 'hey, not too shabby!' Best not to get caught up in Slater or Bonga Perkins comparisons, where's the fun in that? They're best used used for inspiration, not comparison. If I'd been paddling out I'd have given a full blown hoot.

Posted by: ben at January 15, 2004 10:46 AM

have to 2nd that emotion... hoooooooooootttt!!!!

Posted by: bird at January 15, 2004 11:06 AM

thanks homies! right on!

Posted by: e at January 15, 2004 11:12 AM

Waimea Bay January 10
photos from surfermag

Posted by: e at January 15, 2004 11:22 AM

That Rincon video is sweet. reminds me of my younger days making the trip north. a really close friend grew up in Ventura and we used to skip highschool to get dawn patrols at rincon. i had one of the most memorable days of my life there in the late 80s. we pulled up early am really hightide screwing up the waves and only 2 spongers out. we decided to hit it just because. after about an hour the tide dropped and the swell picked up and it was firing all the way through the cove at head high and only us, 2 spongers and a couple other boards that paddled out. after about 3-4 hours we came in looked to the lineup and there were at least 25-40 guys out. those first few hours of rincon basically empty and moving all the way through the cove...brings a smile to my face even today.

Posted by: dsx at January 15, 2004 11:26 AM

e...sounds like a killah-kind off-the-lip to me! congrats! i wish i'd been there to see it.

dsx...your day at Rincon sounds all-time epic! the sort of day that at the end of the season/year/decade stands out in one's memories. nice.

Posted by: ck at January 15, 2004 12:07 PM

sunset

chob

thanks silver72 for gathering those pics!

Posted by: e at January 15, 2004 12:09 PM

d'oh.. guess those pics won't be workin'

Posted by: e at January 15, 2004 12:10 PM

Oahu update. Well early reports from the northshore indicate the macker swell has not arrived yet. Nothing more than 15 foot sets rolling in this morning. Maybe the swell is late? Winds are light and variable making for good conditions if the juice comes up later on. In town, had a nice morning session out at DH. Reminded me of Norcal. Juicy windswell from yesterday's storm rolling through on a high tide with peaks randomly generated all over the lineup. We had a nasty 30+ mph wind/rain storm come through yesterday, but alas, today is sunny and clear.

Posted by: bagus at January 15, 2004 12:11 PM

btw...don't know how many of you heads saw pez's posting on yesterday's board. definitely worth checkin' out.

pez...sorry to hear about the holiday blues and, of course, the identity-heist. glad to hear that you shook it yesterday and had a fun sesh with some random dudes. i hope that your improved karma continues.

Posted by: ck at January 15, 2004 12:13 PM

bobsurf pic.. i think this is socal from today or yesterday

Posted by: e at January 15, 2004 12:26 PM

Was in SB for Xmas and scored lonely, stormy surf at Rincon Christmas eve and Day on my FIRST ever visit . Downpours and stormy conditions kept locs by the fireplace while this NorCal heavy floated blissfully,lonely in the Cove with only head high stormy peelers for companionship. Tide dropped, friendly loc shreddoctors came aplenty and i finally drug myself to shore, elated- Rincon popped my cherry those 2 days, im a beliver for life. Thanks for that timeless Rincon vid.

Posted by: steama at January 15, 2004 12:30 PM

cool story Christian. Biju sounds like a legendary character.

also thanks steama and dsx for those rincon tales!

I've only surfed the queen of the coast one time.. it was super small.. Brian biggs, Arlo, Tyler Lamotte and i paddled out to almost the rivermouth and caught super-small, glassy waist-high peelers for an hour or two.. Only a few cars in the lot and only one other surfer out! It was super super small though.. like, barely surfable.. but.. RINCON!

Santa Barbara has such a fantastic coastline for surf.. too bad it's so friggen shadowed by the islands... othwerwise it might be like santa cruz.

Posted by: e at January 15, 2004 01:06 PM

A little late report but nonetheless, a report: I thought Lindy was pretty good this a.m. Better then the last few anyway as that left at least had a wall to it. I was heading down the beach this a.m. and seeing one solo rider out there riding down this lonely shoulder. In a matter of like 2 minutes, E had scored 2 solid waves. But I knew this because he was outta the lot before I could turn my car off!

Anyway, winds were definitely swirling this morning. I was really surprised the conditions were what they were. Early signs of increased swell over yesterdays but nothing huge. I guess it was just a lucky session.

The 'Mar, serving it up still!

Posted by: Kaiser at January 15, 2004 01:42 PM

cortes bank shots from the billabong odyssey website

Posted by: e at January 15, 2004 02:21 PM

jeeez!

Posted by: e at January 15, 2004 02:23 PM

those shots are nice. sooooo clean. even though i am not a big wave charger i kinda think with a tow rope and sea surface that smooth i could handle some of the smaller sets of the day. but then again.....

Posted by: at January 15, 2004 03:21 PM

The scary part of those Cortes shots is that the juice on that day was much less than expected and was considered "disappointing". Gnarly...

Posted by: mwsf at January 15, 2004 04:01 PM

christian...out on the 6'4" today....you make me feel like a littly girly man!!! Good on ya! And, Ahhh, Rincon. Brings back a lot of memories. I was also making the trek to that place from points South in the 80's. I remember one day in particular that it was huge. And the current was pushing hard into the 101 breakwall. You would get this incredibly long ride and then fight like hell to get out before getting sucked down the coast...good fun. I also remember getting super stoned that day after surfing and having my very tall buddy basically steer the car with his foot from the back seat all the way home on the 101. Morons!!! Oh to be young and stupid...and invincible again.

Posted by: jdz at January 15, 2004 05:08 PM

that one shot with the plane looks pretty tame. i have no idea what it would feel like to be hurrled into one of those...it doesnt seem all that hairy really, you are already going super fast and then the wave just sets up for more down the line speed just go staight and fast toward the shoulder. with the jetskies around even if you wipe out you really only need a 30-40 sec. breath holding to make it...not too terrible. paddling into a beast like that would be much much more serious i think. i certainly would love the shot at a huge wall and a tow-in. maybe only one though

Posted by: dsx at January 15, 2004 05:17 PM

seriously, ill take that rincon video with no one out over any triple overhead monster any day. i was just consdering how much i would pay for that, 100$ an hour? for flawless overhead rincon with nobody out, hmmm..rad mavs story christian, and good job going out today. the closest i came to surfing OB this morning was chuckling to myself as i saw waves pushing really north right into kelly's, than 2 wet guys with longboards walking south on the great highway..

saw a really good looking mavs wave on the cam just before it was too dark to see, spooky..the moss beach ghost's probably surfing out there right now..

Posted by: bagel at January 15, 2004 06:27 PM

that would be the blue lady.

wahine ghost dropping in on huge mavericks fuckin pirates of the carabean style!!..uuh goodnight

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