waves abound..
They're out there.. somewhere..
OB - I watched a few beautiful, perfectly tapering waves barrel and peel out at Sloat as i returned from my session down south. One stout-hearted lad was attempting the paddle out. Not sure if he made it. I saw one A-frame that looked exactly like Peurto Escondito. Just a big, burly, barrelling monster. Earlier in the morning, at 6:45, I looked out at menacing rows and rows of white-water against a still-dark sky. I got out of my car and heard ominous, threatening rumbles and i tucked my tail between my legs, got back in my car and headed south.
Rockaway - i pulled up to the lot just as 5 guys paddled out. There were some rights peeling along but they looked really mushy.. kinda borderline rideable. I might have headed out there but i didn't want to bum the group of five headed out to the small surfable area.. sooo..
Lindy - More doable than yesterday. The huge pointbreak left out at Pedro point was fucking FIRING!! Jesus! Kaiser and i watched many many waves churn, grind and spit down the point. It looked like huge foamball barrels from my vantage sitting waiting for shoulder-high closeouts at Lindy! Yup.. it was pretty ugly at the 'Mar. The offshores raged.. but still didn't do enough to prevent the infamous Lindy closeout syndrome. About 10 super mellow peeps spread throughout the lineup.. Kaiser and i found a little left just north of Taco Bell.. We each found some mini sections and at least got some drops under our belt before the workday began. My last ride i found a little open face and kind-of moved around on it a bit. Felt good to get wet..
I'm fairly certain that Santa Cruz area reefs and points will be absolutely on fire right now. The winds are blowing perfectly out of the NE. The tide is almost down to 2ft. The Swell is out of the WSW. There are a lot of waves in this short-period swell. Even if it's crowded there will be a lot of waves for everyone down there.. Go! Go get some peeling, reeling point break waves!! Go right now!!
Bruce took some cool photos of OB on Sunday
Judith
wow... that guy is definately pitted. That left is dope at PP. Wonder if I'll ever have balls to go out.
Posted by: Ian at January 13, 2004 10:53 AME--those ob pics are awesome! the barrel shot is great, but I really like that bodysurfing pic! Gotta love the boardless brethren.
Posted by: ben at January 13, 2004 10:55 AMyeah, as with you this morn I noticed PP looking like a LOT of fun from the silly closeout mush that was Lindy on Sunday. How do you get out there?
Posted by: ben at January 13, 2004 10:58 AMhmmm, forget I asked that.
Hi you niceness types. There are a few more pics at the site http://www.surfhumor.com/Photos%206.htm. If you see yourself and want a copy of the CD, shoot me an email.
Watched Mav's from the bluff yesterday and a guy from Brazil went over the falls and busted his board. Everyone watching groaned in shared agony. I talked to him later and he was stoked- everyone in the line up helped him out the best they could. Then a guy on a body board loaned him one of his fins and they made the long swim back in together.
I'll think about that next time I hear someone dissin' guys on boogie boards. The person who gets on your nerves today may some day save your life.
Posted by: Bruce at January 13, 2004 11:16 AMThat bodyboarder's name is Alex Schaffer and he works at Aqua Surf Shop. He's well known in the bodyboarding community, but I had no idea he'd been bodyboaring at Mavs. He rips and is obviously a cool cat.
On another note, this is what you get when you mess with bodyboarders in Hawaii. Pretty scary shit.
Posted by: bbr at January 13, 2004 11:28 AMBruce--
Posted by: ben at January 13, 2004 11:29 AMthanks for the pics. I enjoy checking in at your site every once in a while for updates. Your efforts are appreciated!
I hear you e. I'm heading to Sloat this afternoon. This am looked fantastic but I was outta time. Middle of the beach was huge with the outside bars breaking. Yowza!
ben-that's sisterhood bodysurfin'
Posted by: kdalle at January 13, 2004 11:33 AMgoodonya sister!
Posted by: ben at January 13, 2004 11:39 AMdamn, i wonder if that surfer guy was on crack..i seen this one volcom video, where that guy kaiborg fake boxes the camera (i think thats the guy) anyway those punches looked super fast and solid, i was freaked out just watching ..bummer for that guy..
bought a new wetsuit and one of those polyprophelene (hows that spelling) long sleeve rash gaurds.. i felt like i was wearing a jacket in the water this weekend..i love it..
Posted by: bagel at January 13, 2004 12:11 PMCruz was indeed working today. Not everywhere (like yesterday), but most spots.
I managed to kick my fin again with my ankle (I don't wear booties), so I have a gash that will take forever to heal. I seem to do this about three times a year. I just bought some Protek fins, 'cause cuts on ankles just suck.
Posted by: dano at January 13, 2004 01:05 PM-d
dano.. good to hear that SC is firing.. damn! you're a lucky man to live down there.
I use protek fins.. i bought them after Robme told me a story of slicing his "grundle" open and requiring 16 stitches.. his wetsuit was all filled with blood and he thought he had cut something else open!!!
don't know if the proteks do that much good.. but.. they don't seem as sharp..
Posted by: e at January 13, 2004 01:20 PMsiiiiiick barrels on the main page. dope! gnarly boogieboard boxing match!! what was that guy thinking? and while the story from mav's today was positively nice... anybody catch the late nite posting yesterday from a recent aggro visitor to the site? wtf!? if this guy is for real, it seems very unusual to me that charging mavs would fill you with the burning desire to rip on good vibing internet surf chatters, but hey, he's the man.
santacruz sounds fuuuuuuuuuuun today! i wonder if natty's is going off. Mmmmmmmm, nb's.
Posted by: jake at January 13, 2004 01:21 PMOB starting to look good down at sloat. i just did a drive by, decided not to paddle out it looks good but after 30 min of watching and seeing only 2 good rides i figured it was one of those always out of position kinda days. offshores were strong and the coniditions were clean just not all there yet. around 12 guys out.
Posted by: dsx at January 13, 2004 01:33 PMYo, anyone ever stay on the north shore of Oahu? I am looking into a short rental for about 5 days. Not real sure about places to stay, house to rent, etc. other then the typical south shore side of things.
Info. appriciated.
...oh, yeah, I wanna surf PP really bad. Looked so sick this morning. Looks like things have cleaned up some since the a.m. Fog burned off as well. Hopefully tomorrow is solid with at least some swell left-over.
Posted by: Kaiser at January 13, 2004 02:12 PMOne more thing, maybe for Blakestah or others:
Reading up on Stormsurf.com, they deliver their report based upon swell number (or storm number). In this case, we are in the midst of Swell/Storm #10 - #12 right now with Swell #10 fading today and #11 and #12 filing in as the week progresses.
My question is this: As a generalization, how many Swell/Storms do we typically receive over the course of what we call our "season" in SF? At least something we classify as significant.
Thanks in advance yet again...
Posted by: Kaiser at January 13, 2004 02:40 PMPP as in SC eastside?
It is hella fun on a DOH day.
I have no idea how many swells Mark Sponsler says there is in a year. I kept data on 14 storms one year (the 2001-2 season) for reference on how swells hit the outer buoys and then the inner buoys. The answer was that the predominant wind pattern can change the swell size by a factor of two on its way in, JUST IN THE LAST 24 hours! In any case, I didn't chart it when swells overlapped a lot, or when it was stormy when they hit, so figure at least 25 a year.
I'm leaving here around 4, running to Sloat, and I'm gonna find kdalle and drop in on him!
Posted by: blakestah at January 13, 2004 03:22 PMHey bbr - what's the link to the story about the surfer getting his arse and face beat in.
Posted by: gw at January 13, 2004 03:49 PMThanks
gw
Hey bbr - what's the link to the story about the surfer getting his arse and face beat in.
Posted by: gw at January 13, 2004 03:50 PMThanks
gw
here's a few:
http://www.662mob.com/community/html/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=41
http://www.subconclothing.com/RPC7.html
http://www.fluidzone.com/pages/?pageID=1236&wordsID=1138
Posted by: bbr at January 13, 2004 04:09 PMNiceness folks-
First a defence, "Pez" is a friend of mine, not a super close friend but someone who I feel is level headed, responsible and trustworthy enough that I have had him work for me and referred him to other friends who have also employed him- with stellar results. I remember reading the post that started all of this and wincing. It was ill-considered to be sure. I don't know what Roberto was thinking when he wrote it, but I am sure that it was no more than the frustration we have all felt from time to time vis a vis an overcrowded line-up. Probably there just wasn't sufficient time between surf & keyboard.
I do know that Roberto did not write yesterday's asinine post about Maverick's etc. Roberto is an earest and commited surfer but I don't think that he is up to Maverick's par yet. And I know he wouldn't claim to be somewhere he ain't- he is just not that kind of guy. So, cut him some slack as we all need to have done for us from time to time. Niceness means forgiving too, doesn't it?
Surf a not-so-secret but seldom ridden SMC spot Sunday @ head & a little up- A+!
See you in the water longhairs.
Posted by: goodmorning at January 13, 2004 06:17 PMPosting early as I have jury duty today (damn). Sorry I missed you balkestah. I was at Sloat from 2-4:30. Some nice sets at first. Size and frequency started to decline later as the wind calmed and started to turn south. Hope you got some. I knew you'd get back to surfing sooner than expected. It still looked pretty fun as I left.
Seeing as how I can't get in the water today it's bound to be good.
Go get it!
Posted by: kdalle at January 14, 2004 07:17 AMDidn't see me?
You nearly ran me over on your way in!!!
Just kidding....I barely had enough light to surf - my wave in was so dark I had to visualize the wave face from the reflections of headlights on the wave. First outer bars of the year, dern I've been missing it. A whole nuther experience, for sure.
Posted by: blakestah at January 14, 2004 09:18 AMHey goodmorning thanks for your kind words. Shit they almost brought me to tears. I sincerely regret making an arse of myself with that post. I was indeed feeling the holiday woes and was probably slightly envious of everyone elses cheer. I also felt slightly belittled in that I aspire to someday be a true hellman like some that charge BIG OB. I would love to someday stand in front of JAWS like Greg Noll and envision myself on that one "glory" wave. Better yet I want to get to the point where I can except not getting that wave.
Lately, its been way too easy for me to loose prespective and forget how lucky we all are to do what we do on any day. Unfortunately it sometimes takes seeing a fellow surfer(Troy from Pacifica a very, very strong and accomplished surfer) sidelined due to a neck injury duck diving in 4ft surf or speaking to that Brazilian cat who almost drowned @ Mavs the other day...and just reading these posts of peeps loving surfing for surfing and having a good time to bring it all back together. Something my reactionary,agressive and competative tendencies sometime cloud. I have issues no doubt, but I aint goin out like dat.
Its funny I havent truely enjoyed my surf since that day of the post until yesterday, when a few folks joined me @ the north end of Rockaway. I wasnt pissed that my solo session ended because I thought of you E and your friends. I smiled at these cats and cheered for them as they were enveloped in nasty close out barrels. It wasnt good surf at all but it certainly was a good time.
Thanks again goodmorning and thanks again E for inspiring me in surf, but more importantly in spirit.
peace
pez
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