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lumpy/dismal at OB.. better south

Relatively glassy at OB.. but.. you'd have to work for your sections this morning. 1 wave in 6 looked to offer a racy, high-performance shoulder.. but the other 5 of 6 waves either closed out or just weirded out in some non surf-supportive way. Biggest waves a tad over head-high. No takers as of 6:50.. two guys out at Sloat on my way back around 8:30. Down "where the south winds do good" things looked decidedly better. About 20 or 30 heads bobbed throughout the complete stretch of everybody's favorite cove. A few different peaks to pick from and a smattering of peeling, glassy waves on offer. Not fantastically amazing sweetness.. but.. pretty damn good for this secret spot. It was mellow times sharing the lineup with the likes of Kamikazee Kaiser, Marco the Marauder, CK orange beard, Long-haired-good-vibed-asian-guy (LHGVAG) and a few others. LHGVAG caught a few nice ones and succeeded in smacking the lip with his trademark style. I was honored to be riding the legendary 6'6" blue Xanadu and really liked the feel of this deeply historical board under my feet.

Sorrowfully the morning waned and it was time to rush home and get to work.. i could have stayed out a few hours longer.

Super Super sucky news from Paul (PaulB?). He posted this yesterday afternoon

Aloha niceness,

Bumming right now as my 3 favorite boards were all stolen last night in the Mission. (Big) Doh!

I'm thinkin they may go on sale on the SF street market in the next few hours (Thursday morning), and if you happen to see these boards for sale on the street, please contact me.

At around 10pm last night, my truck was broken into at 22nd/Alabama and someone stole my grey surfboard bag with 3 boards inside.

If you happen to walk by any of the following lcoations today and see the boards for sale, please fell free to email or call me (415-999-6861). I am offering a reward, as well.

I think they may be peddled today on the street at these common stolen goods hot spots:

-Civic Center (7th and Market)
-Market next to Church, by the Safeway
-20th and Mission, near the Donut Shop
-Potrero and Army Street

Here are the details:

The bag was grey w/ blue and purple stripes and black handles..about 8' long. The boards were:

1. Dark Blue and white NorCal Matt Ambrose 7'2" pintail Gun, narrow, and very thick glass and very thick stringer. FCS, but no fins attached.

2. Bright orange 7'0" Stewart Fish, about 21" wide. SG stickers covering up dings on the underside of the nose. 1 white middle FCS fin and 2 black outer fins.

3. Very Neon Yellow, Green, and Blue 6'7" board with DaKine sticker on the top middle and large O'Neill sticker on the nose underside. FCS but no fins attached.

I drove around for hours and hours last night in the Mission and Civic Center looking for a trace of the boards but with no luck. If you see them for sale on the street, for consignment at a Surf Shop, on the beach, or in the lineup, please give me a ring.

Mahalo!

NPac - yowza!

glad to hear ya'll got a few. i was up way too late last night losing money at poker, so i bailed. looks like some nice juice heading our way!

Posted by: lerm at January 8, 2004 10:40 AM

oh, paul, that totally sux! i hope you can get your stuff back.

Posted by: lerm at January 8, 2004 10:43 AM

OB: bumpy and shifty, seeing some sorta surfable looking 4ft - tad overhead mushy shoulders, especially on what constitutes the outside. Pretty persnickity though, looks reeaally hit or miss. No one out, though never say die...a few peeps went out yesterday afternoon and with much effort caught almost as many lumpy rides as they did lumpy waves on the head.

Wait..wait! Someone is paddling out now. Lots of duckdives, once they're out it'll be bumpy but nonetheless it's one of the better spots. Go go mysto surfer...

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at January 8, 2004 11:05 AM

Paul...so sorry to hear the news. good luck gettin' 'em back. guaranteed that neg karma will trail the thief like his shadow.

e...good seein' ya. Kaiser and Marco...nice tradin' lefts with ya and sharin' convo 'tween sets. in this dp'ers opinion, wave of the day has to either go to e for a right on which i watched him gauge a snappy top turn on the storied Xanadu, stall it a bit, and then power down the line...or Kaiser for a late, headhigh, pitchin' drop that somehow he landed! of course...there was also the view from the shoulder of Marco linin' up on a smooth drop and trimmin' backside to fly down the line. hmmm...decisions...decisions. ; )

hope some o' you other heads scored, too!

Posted by: ck at January 8, 2004 11:06 AM

thanks ck!!

check out this pic of cortes bank from last week

check out billabongxxl.com for all the recent pics.. including some pics of this new big-wave reef in oregon

Posted by: e at January 8, 2004 11:36 AM

hey paul

sorry to hear about your boards, that totally sucks!

you're probably already on this, but be sure to alert the staff at the local surf shops.

a friend of mine got his car stolen with a bunch of gear in it a few months ago, and wound up catching the guy thru the alert staff at wise -- the perp showed up there like a week later with his surfboards, staff recognized the description and the fact that the guy wasn't a surfer, asked him to come back later, then the staff made a few calls and the victim & cops were waiting for the perp when he returned -- and he was still driving the car!

Posted by: loon at January 8, 2004 11:53 AM

sorry to hear the news about paul's boards. different paul from me...

will keep my eyes peeled though. i pass the civic center 'black market' on my work commute & will check it.

laying low on the niceness postings cuz i'm crazy busy but i got some good surf in san diego over the holidaze: windansea, a pretty epic hightide session at hospitals (a sucky / ledgy reef between windansea & the cove) and a couple fun sessions at shores and tourmaline.

also got vf'ers pretty fun on new years eve...

see you cats in the water, pb.

Posted by: paul b at January 8, 2004 11:58 AM

i meant 2004.

Posted by: beserra at January 8, 2004 12:24 PM

Paul- I'll put the board descriptions on my site tonight. May I suggest that you do the same on the MavSurfer and maybe the SurferMag bulletin boards? Let's get the turkeys, or at least keep them looking over their shoulders.

Posted by: Bruce at January 8, 2004 12:59 PM

so sorry to hear the news, Paul...good luck recovering your boards. it sounds like you were coming back from or going on a trip...hopefully coming back.

loon, i heard the story about your friend from one of the guys at wise on monday night. that segued nicely into another topic/lesson, which i learned the hard way last summer: never hide your keys on your car while you're in the water. yeah, it's obviously stupid, but it's an obviously stupid thing that a lot of people do.

i come from a don't-lock-the-doors background, so i think this sort of thing absolutely sucks...but, better safe than sorry. i really do hope you get your boards back.

Posted by: friendly at January 8, 2004 01:27 PM

ya, i will heed those words...over the holiday a "hide the key in the bumper" colleague of mine got his car and everything in it yoinked while he was in the water..bummer..if this picture doesnt work i will cry..

anyway Sandow Birk, is having an art opening tonight at 49 geary 2nd floor..surfer artist guy..should be cool..

Posted by: bagel at January 8, 2004 01:46 PM

waaa

Posted by: bagel at January 8, 2004 01:46 PM

E, CK and Kaiser, great to hang with y'all and the LHAGWMV. Surfing is the source, even more so with great peeps in the lineup.

Posted by: Marco Esquandoles at January 8, 2004 01:56 PM

wow. that's scary.

imagine losing your whole car? leaving a secret/less traveled spot along hwy 1 after dark in the cold stuck with just your board and suit, barefoot?

The key that I hide under my bumper won't start my car, but still....I gotta rethink this one as my real keys are usually just inside in my pants. I always heard of this happening but felt it was always going to happen to the other guy.

Key around the neck? Is that a pain or is it not noticeable against your body?

Posted by: scared at January 8, 2004 02:33 PM

I bought a stolen board off craigslist. Never even thought about it being stolen till i started driving home. You can get a vibe from people...the place looked like an apartment no one lived in -that should have tipped me off right away. SUCKS.

I took it out once!!! at OB and the owner saw it and i gave it back and was very pissed. 30 dollars a ride!!!!

I dont think anyone would be foolish enough to sell stolen boards at a shop, but craigslist!!!! look there!

Posted by: phil young at January 8, 2004 03:07 PM

Back when I was an El Porto local, there was a thief there that used to watch people hide their keys. Now, using the Surfline cam, you don't even need to be in the Outer Sunset to watch someone hide their keys. There is no way to determine if you are being watched when you hide your keys.

Key on a string, string around the neck, key down my back. This has worked for me for years. Actually, I picked up a "jogger's key pouch" that is supposed to attach to your shoelace, and it velcros shut. I put my keys in it, drop it down my back, and then put on the rashguard and wetsuit.

Also, don't leave boards in your car on the street, if you can help it. I know it is the cool thing to do and all, but we are in a major US city, and car breakins are common if you park on the street.

Posted by: blakestah at January 8, 2004 03:08 PM

yeah, key on a shoelace around the neck. it's only uncomfortable if it hits your sternum on the paddle. solved by going backside like blakestah or using a shorter key leash.

jerks are out there, watching you change and waiting to snatch your stuff! a very sad truth. the good news is that they're so busy being assholes that they don't have time to surf.

Posted by: friendly at January 8, 2004 03:33 PM

rad blakestah im pretty sure my friend was surfing el porto..wonder if its the same guy, probably a good living...luckily homie was surfing with a friend who also drove..

the wetsuits i usually get have key pockets in them that have never done me wrong..

Posted by: bagel at January 8, 2004 03:43 PM

Damn, I meant to post earlier but I actually had some work to do... I hate that.

Solid sesh this morning fellas. Good to get out there with some friends on a totally empty peak. I guess we got to set the tone and let everyone else find their place! Always nice to get that. I really couldn't believe that it was empty with all the other people out and the frequency of the waves coming through. Nice lefts and rights. Anyway, good to hang. I did dork a few, in fact, one really good right. Still pissed about that. However, the lefts I got were great fun on the "thing" I was riding. E, hope you enjoyed the legend! No wax on those rails, sticks to my ass when I try to make those late drops... Now you know why!

On the topic of ripping shit off: If you think you need it that bad, go ahead and take it! But, I would hate to ever catch someone in the act. Bad things, really bad things...

I will keep my eyes peeled for the stolen goods!

Posted by: Kaiser at January 8, 2004 03:49 PM

there were a series of truck break-ins at emma wood in ventura a while back. my buddy had his truck broken into twice and i had mine broken into once. these fucks didn't even mess around with keys, they'd just pry open the shells on trucks. luckily i learned from my buddy's mistake and only had some change in the pockets of my shorts, which the desperate SOBs took.

the same thing happened here in the city a year or two ago. they pried open my shell, but instead of my board the bastards stole my mountain bike.

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