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fuuuuuuckkk!!

It's frickin huge out there!! and perfect!! but.. HUGE!!! I was actually trying to surf so i didn't sit and watch OB for too long.. but.. i saw flawless DOH+ titans A-framing and peeling and fucking destroying anything in their path. Massive. The offshores were raging too.. so these soaring wispy tendrils of spray were whipping off the tops of the behemoth olas. Geez.. nobody out when i cruised by at 6:43. I was hoping for some respite down in P-town.. Pulled into Smoke-a-Jay. The North end thundered with cavernous, double-over-head monster closeouts. The South end flirted with working.. One guy was suiting up. But.. it was still pretty gnarly.. with maybe half the waves closing out the whole beach. Lindy - not even close. the sea surface looked fantastic but the bland, flat sandbars couldn't handle the thick swell. Soo.. i continued driving south.. thinking maybe the Jetty.. I watched a ridiculously perfect looking mega-wave peel off at GWC.. the right at the north end. Man.. if you're adventurous and a seasoned surfer and like your surf conditions treacherous but glorious.. someone like Joel Fitzgerald or Koby Abberton... you would love GWC this morning.. Montara very scary. yikes.. then the Jetty.. about 10 groms out there.. Lerm, Steve and i watched for about 20 minutes as a grand total of 3 rideable waves came through.. it just wasn't working. Maybe as the tide goes out later on?? Santa Cruz is going to be going absolutely ballistic later today with the lower tide.. Jesus.. it'll be on turbo-fire!

again.. if you're Jonny Jobless or Wilber work-at-home or Larry long-lunch.. go check it out!!

man..

oh yeah.. bagel has an art show tonight at the Makeout room from, like 8pm till 2?? bagel?? I got a sneak preview of some of his new stuff and its a bit saucy! If you like comical, erotic, mischievous sensuality you might want to check it out.. I think that Jake and i are going to try to hit it. Soo... you could also get some Indo stories from our man Jocular Jake..

also check out the mav's cam

e

from surfermag.com

I looked at Sloat from 7 to 8. 10+ guys tried to get out, only 3 made it. I only saw one wave caught, a huge clean wave.

Posted by: joe o at December 17, 2003 10:42 AM

VFWs? i also check Sloat at around 8:30am it looks unreal, if you were in the right spot right time. i think i saw around 4-6 guys out? it was difficult to see them that far and with the sets coming. well i saw 2 rides in about 20min, huge glory drop left that was a wave of your life type TOH+ size, just a monster, and another smaller? DOH+ right hander that proved to be workable. i also saw some tremendous beatings one guy couldnt get into the wave and pulled back only to have a huge huge set break right on his head. ouch! I did howeve think that the north end was very surfable, around head high maybe a bit bigger on some of the sets. i saw one guy out. the waves were not as nice as down south. but seemed to be possible. i am going to brave it later today i will give a report this afternoon. if anyone was out at the north end any thoughts what was it like?

Posted by: dsx at December 17, 2003 10:53 AM

sweet, thanx for the plug e..ya at the make-out room 3225 22nd Street between mission and Valencia..if you can make it, theres a band playing, so tell them your there to see the paintings and you wont have to pay the cover..its a bar, so usuall bar hours i guess..ill probably get there around 8:30 and stay for as long as i can..

big waves big waves..very peaky looking

Posted by: bagel at December 17, 2003 10:57 AM

Paddled out at Lincoln with Doof. Later joined by another dude from the channel north of us.

Mostly dodged sets. Doof, the other dude, and myself each individually just made it under pitching lips at least 15 feet tall.

I finally took off one of the midsize ones and fell on the drop. On the way back outside another came to me and I went for it. Rode that one inside and straightened out for the closeout.

I decided to call it a day after that.

Doof got caugt inside a set and rolled in.

Two dudes to the south of us were trying, and another couple to the north.

Drove down to Sloat and watched for a good 15-20 minutes.

Except for my own, the only wave I saw ridden was a inside reform that a guy stood up on for his ride into the sand, and one other similar but further out ride near Fulton.

Sloat looked like it was worth the investment of time though. Maybe Blakestah will get something on film.

A friend watching from Sloat said some guy was tearing up waves down at the Second Lot. "Really a lot of turns. Way more than you usually see out here on big waves."

What will tomorrow morning bring?

Posted by: Friend #1 at December 17, 2003 10:58 AM

Hi there-
Left predawn heading south. Tailed Mavsrfer's Jetski through Pacifica. The HMB sock showed straight offshore, parking lot at Pillar Pt. already full,gonna be a zoo at the reef today. Got my first real glimpse around Tunitas and it looked promising. Very long lines of corduroy to the horizon. Scott Creek looking very doable with about a dozen carfuls watching but nobody wet yet. Figured all the Westsiders would be north so I headed for Middle Peak. Very inconsistent at first. Only 2 other guys outside. As the tide lowered the sets started pumping and I caught several bombs way outside. Lotta juice and wind. Nothing like a blind drop on a DOH+ wave. Rode the last one to IronGuy™ and headed back. Short muffin stop at Whale City. Guys towing at DPort rights. Eight or so at Scott's. But the real gem was...Pigeon Pt. Overhead walls of peeling glass. I looked like Rincon but the waves were twice as long. Lots of places that rarely break looked A+. I honestly expected it to be bigger with all the hype. Good fun out there though and there's nothing wrong with that. Get it if you can.

Posted by: kdalle at December 17, 2003 11:03 AM

Kdalle,
did you see any boards at pidgeon point? i have heard rumors that it looks rideable but never really is. can you elaborate? if i may be so bold.

Posted by: dsx at December 17, 2003 11:17 AM

nice work getting waves Friend #1 and Kdalle!
Pigeon point eh?? Why doesn't anybody surf there?? the tooth?

damn.. towing in at Davenport rights! shiit! i surfed there on Saturday and it was fun.. relatively mellow.

Posted by: e at December 17, 2003 11:18 AM

sloat today, ginormous. people breaking boards on the paddle out! awesome power. maybe a mini gun would work at the north end, but down at sloat you would want a rhino chaser for sure. TOH on sets easy.

buy beers for your friends that made it out today. they deserve it.

cheers.

Posted by: elias at December 17, 2003 11:30 AM

dsx and e-
I have never seen anyone surf Pigeon Pt. When it's big it is just a beautiful sight. As best as I can tell, it needs a swell at least as big as today to really break. i have seen it huge before and it's amazing. Not hollow but reeeeeally long. I went to the top of the lighthouse once and saw a grey whale hanging in the cove though.

Posted by: kdalle at December 17, 2003 11:37 AM

Skivin'-off at work, checking the Maverick's cam. Awesomely clean, big waves. I watched two good, solid sets within about 15-20 minutes. I'm sorta glad I'm not a big wave kinda guy - glorious conditions/great looking waves, but lots and lots of folks in the water. The pack looks like a huge raft of kelp bulbs floating on the swell. I'm not sure I'd want to be a piece of shrapnel in that hand-grenade today.

Posted by: Jimmie at December 17, 2003 11:42 AM

for all those niceness heads who haven't seen bagel's art, he has some sick sick shit. the kid has talent.

Posted by: j at December 17, 2003 11:43 AM

hey kdalle, you wanna surf pidgeon pt today? i would love to head south and surf it, but solo? dont quite think i am that much a maverick. anyway, if there are any takers i can drive south in around 1-2 hours, otherwise i will take my chance at VFWs.

Posted by: dsx at December 17, 2003 12:00 PM

e, you hit the nail right on the head! Montara, North end, pumping, but fickle/close-outty. GWC THUMPING with beautiful makable rights. Montara, very, very scary. Looked like T-Po, but closing out. Sat and watched Mav's for about 30-45 min. Wasn't as big as I thought it would be, but very clean with offshores. Maybe due to the tide it wasn't super huge. But there were aprox. 30 surfers out. Every wave for the most part had 1-2 surfers on it. A few went unridden. My friend Chris and Kevin (Jeff Clark's son) were out filiming on the sea doo and said they got some beautiful footage of the left. If I can get my hands on it, would you be able to host a small video e? Anyway, wish I were in SC today. Anyone up for tomorrow? FInally get to see some Nor-Cal juice. None of this left-over stuff in SoCal.

Posted by: Ian at December 17, 2003 12:01 PM

OB is GIGANTIC of course, no one out right now, saw two peeps paddling for it early am...what a spectacle!

Drove to Mavs - Ian, when were you there? ...shoutout to CHRITSTIAN who was in the midst of the zoo! South OB this morning actually looked like the better deal - particularly some channels open on the southernmost end. Just checked it on the way back, paddle much more brutal, fewer peeps, an amazing ride squeeked in here and there, it's still quite epic... Saw bodysurfer JUDITH charging some behemoths, holy @#%!! Hat's off...!

Too restless to sit at my desk today, will jog to other parts OB and see what's up.

Ian - if you or anyone can bring all the tech equipment my place can host the small video - only depends on what day.

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at December 17, 2003 12:18 PM

thanx j!

y'all are gnarly..pidgeon point looks like the biggest shark hang out ever..ive seen it look really good though but no body ever out..i wonder if alcatraz lefts are breaking

Posted by: bagel at December 17, 2003 12:27 PM

pidgeon point, sharks, just call me bait then i guess. i heard waddell was worse for sharks....but on a scale of 1-10 i guess pidgeon is a 9, ano nuevo a 10 and waddell a 9.5?

Posted by: dsx at December 17, 2003 12:35 PM

From Bank Wright's Surfing California (1973):

Pidgeon Point: Long right lines peeling off a rocky point. Needs a strong winter swell. Medium-low tide. Comment: Looks good but unmakeable sections are everywhere. Usually not woth the hassle.

I also remember some old salty saying that Pidgeon Point is an excellent indicator for middle peak at the Lane. So perhaps kdalle followed this same logic.

I remember surfing double to triple overhead Pleasure Point (the best I have ever got it) and on the way back Pidgeon Point was rifling like you wouldn't believe, but it looked like you needed to have a motor to keep up with the waves. Maybe a sail board.

That was on a huge west swell from an Extra Tropical typhoon a few years back.

Posted by: Friend #1 at December 17, 2003 12:43 PM

Watched the MavCam for a while, however, I think the OB cam was more impressive. Macking out there. Hopefully, we get some pics of Mavs. Pipe contest called off (again) today.

-d

Posted by: dano at December 17, 2003 12:51 PM

heyhey niceness!! norcal is blowing up with juice, huh? good stuff! i'm going cruz'ing right now, shweet.

so i tried emailing kaiser but seemed to have failed... this message is for him and anyone else who might want to DP tomorrow morning... e and I should be on the early pre-work surf mission, so join us! and i'm psyched to see bagel's sick art at the show tonight! e, i probably won't be getting on a train until 6 or 7... i'll call you.

later homies!! charge it!

Posted by: jake at December 17, 2003 12:59 PM

E/Jake, see you guys in the morning for sure!

Check the beach today with the intent to film some guys. VFers looked completely doable on even my 7'0". I thought about going out around 7:00 as 2 groups of 2 went out. Possilby Friend #1. Anyway, drove the beach and headed to the other end. When I got there, seemed like 10 guys were attempting and only one had made it thus far. Over the course of 30 minutes, several dudes come in from failed attempts. I gotta give it up to everyone who tried to get out (with the exception of the 2 dudes on funboards... Guys... come on now!), beers for sure for them folks.

Only saw one ride on a dope-ass left in front of the lot. Huge wall presented itself and the guy owed the fucking thing.

Anyone else see the swell/wave breaking about 2 miles off the coast? Seemed like it was centered more towards the middle of the beach but so far out that you could hardly tell really where it was. Anyway, seemed surreal that you would get some whitewater flow that far out... Any knowledge of this?

Pigeon Pt. - Only seen it surfed twice. Seems like solid set up but tons of rocks in the lineup. Dodge-ball in a surfboard perhaps.

Posted by: Kaiser at December 17, 2003 01:30 PM

Jersey

Posted by: e at December 17, 2003 01:32 PM

Kaiser-
The outer-outer sandbars break often when it gets this size and bigger. Years ago it broke much farther out and backed off. After El Nino a lot of sand seemed to be deposited closer in. Now the outer-outer bars break in closer and on huge days sometimes roll all the way to the beach. A good view is from Skyline somewhere between John Daly Blvd and The Olympic Club. Heard tell some peeps want to tow it. BTW, that area is not in the Monterey Bay Sanctuary so the PWC limitations don't apply.

Posted by: kdalle at December 17, 2003 01:38 PM

kaiser...

we must have passed in the lot...i was at Sloat at what sounds like the same time you were and saw the one guy get that left. At least I'm pretty sure it was the same wave because I stood around for about an hour and only really say that one ride. I did see a bodyboarder out there getting some big ones. And the bodysurfing women/mermaid (judith?)who absoulutely made me question my manhood was out there frolicking amongst the beasts!! I mean just playing out there. She amazes me. Too big for me unfotunately...but fun to watch.

Fun stuff...if someone could tell me how to do some digital video capture from a vhs-c camcorder I mught have some vid.

Have fun all!
jdz

Posted by: jdz at December 17, 2003 01:41 PM

Filmed at Sloat from 8-10 AM. There were from 3 to 6 people out, some even catching waves. Big waves. Shout out to elias, who stopped by to introduce himself.

Pigeon Point...needs more sand...

The real action was at Mavs, I didn't check it, but on a well-forecast solid shot like this one, there's gonna be people from EVERYWHERE out there. Wait till
late January...

Posted by: blakestah at December 17, 2003 01:42 PM

and if someone could learn me some spelling, I'd greatly appreciate it. Holy crap my fast typing suuuucccckkkkks!

Posted by: jdz at December 17, 2003 01:45 PM

jdz - vhs to digital might prove complex if you don't have the right equip (cables/software). iMovie is the least intimidating editing program (MAC), but still takes a day to get up to speed. good luck!

Posted by: elias at December 17, 2003 02:10 PM

Hey Friend 1 -

I'm guessing I'm "the other dude" from your first post. There were only 2 other guys out that I saw at the north end - one on a yellow board and one on a red board. The guy on the red board paddled past me and said "good day to have some company". He took what looked like a miserable beating from outside all the way back to the beach after his luck ran out on duck diving the set waves. (which I agree were probably 15 ft - to whoever thought it was head high from the parking lot - I thought that too until I got out there).

Anyway - if you're going to try to go out at the north end of the beach and you're experienced in big surf you might be able to make a mini-gun work. There were definitely some long open faces that would be fun but the drop was serious. I made one attempt at a set wave that resulted in my getting hung up and then tossed - falling for what felt like a couple seconds before a trip through the washing machine. I then spent the rest of my session hunting for a "small" wave to get back in on - thankfully finally sniping one. It was out of my league out there today for sure. I was on a 7'6". My buddy had a 7'0" snapped on the paddle out. Good luck.


Posted by: Steve at December 17, 2003 02:46 PM

Spent a long lunch hour at the south end. There were 4-6 guys out and I saw maybe six rides. The offshores made it deceptively beautiful. Talked to one guy who said it took almost an hour to get out back. Watched another guy go over the falls on a DOH+ set. Everyone in the lot was groaning! Shot a few dozen pics with the digital and the 500mm lens. . . I'll let you know if they come out.

Posted by: Bruce at December 17, 2003 03:07 PM

E,

Nice to chat with you and Lerm in the lot. I actually went in and nestled into a few at the "2nd peak". Good to get wet on a sunny, offshore day with Mavs looming in the background. Hope you scored.
Steve

Posted by: Steve at December 17, 2003 03:23 PM

Jersey

Posted by: e at December 17, 2003 03:45 PM

that's cool that you got wet Steve.. Sorrowfully for me.. if i don't get on it in the morning.. there's no surf for me all day.. Even though i like my job.. i'm cubed in the cubicle all day.. which makes mid-day sessions impossible.

Posted by: e at December 17, 2003 03:48 PM

Steve of the first post. That was me on Ol' Yeller and Doof was on the red board. Ol' yeller is 8'10", and Doof's board is 8'6". I was just to the north of you on the peak that broke on ya. I guess I should have turned and went.

All in all, it was definitely an experience out there, but I do wish I had sacked up and headed out to Sloat where Doof and I first checked. We couldn't see any good channels though at first light so...

Sorry to hear about the board breakage on the paddle out. Talk about adding insult to injury.
Halfway outside, I got nailed by an insider that sent me to the bottom. It seemed to be not very far down for as far out as I was.



Posted by: Friend #1 at December 17, 2003 03:57 PM

jdz, the easiest way to make digital movies from VHS is to use a digital camcorder. Use firewire to hook it to a computer, and play the VHS into the digital camcorder, and from there out to the computer.

Straight analog video into a computer is a much trickier affair. Once you have the video in digital format, you might find some help here.

http://www.keck.ucsf.edu/~dblake/onlinevid.html

Christian, been there, done that, no shame in it. There are crowded days, and less crowded days. This was for certain going to be a crowded day.

Posted by: blakestah at December 17, 2003 04:05 PM

hola

ran the beach with my dog and watched at sloat this morning from 7:15-8:00, didn't even bring any gear with me besides my camera (non-dig). i did snap a few frames during the one ride i saw, around 8:00, a left, easily DOH, but significantly smaller than most of the set waves. if anyone knows the rider, let me know, i will send a print. if the prints are any good will also scan & post 'em.

kaiser & kdalle, i saw those cloudbreakers this morning @ midbeach, also saw a dude with a red board heading out there, no one else out, not sure if he ever made it out...anyone see him?

and huzzah to anyone who made a go at it today--especially the kneeboarder riding what looked like an 8 foot longboard.

Posted by: loon at December 17, 2003 04:09 PM

that jersey shot is ridiculous

Posted by: bbr at December 17, 2003 04:29 PM


Up by 5:30, at Sloat to meet Friend #1 by 6:30.

There is a lovely sunrise, but not as colorful as the day before.

In the dark, it looks like there are any number of peaks to choose from, a channel or two that stays partly open during the sets but in the dimness, we decide to wait.

During the wait, I suggest we check out VFW. It will be smaller there with an easier paddle.

We get there, and it is as I thought.

In my mind, there is the idea that it may be good to go today while the sets are in the 10-12 foot range at 20 seconds before tomorrow when it is expected to get 14-16 at 14 seconds. A shorter period swell can be a real pain to paddle against.

We decide to go out.

Friend #1 beat me out, despite my 3 minute headstart. It was terrible to watch him go up and over some inside sand dredging wave 10 feet away from me while I had to duck under the edge of the curl...it slowed me down just long enough to watch him go over the next wave of the set which shifted over and shoved me way back. A third guy to the north got about about at the same time as I finally made it.

We are alternately dodging and weaving to try to find a good entry point on one of the sets when a larger one comes through. Out of position, Friend #1 escapes getting squashed by paddling like a maniac. 10 minutes later, the situation is reversed and I have the same experience.

More moving about for the next half hour sees me nearly get one, but I back out when I realize that it is shaping up to be a close-out. But this puts me inside for the wave following it, and again I have to paddle like mad to get to the feathering shoulder and punch through it.

Friend #1 then dashes for a smaller one, and biffs it on the take-off.

I see what he is doing and think it is a good idea to go for a smaller set wave to break the ice so I start to move in a bit.

Then as he paddles back out, he spins on goes one, and that is the last I saw of him till I got out.

I try for a few of the smaller set waves as well, and find myself too far out on the shoulder, or too "deep" on the middle of a very, very long wall that looks to close out.

Every time after my failure to catch a wave, I would paddle back out and wait for the next set.

Now I guess I didn't paddle out far enough or perhaps this set was much bigger than the rest, but suddenly I found myself staring into a good sized peak bearing down on yours truly.

Digging deep, I sprint for the shoulder and slide up and over, thinking that I'd better pay more attention next time and holy crap, there is another one behind it. Bigger and broader too, looking to break right on me.

Panting with a mixture of determination and fear, I try to channel that into perfect paddling form and as I get sucked up the face, I push the 8'6" into the wave right under the lip as it reaches vertical.

Popping out the other side, with my eyes blurry, I see now that I am doomed. I keep paddling out reflex and faint hope.

But it is even bigger and already feathering.

Gadzooks, here it comes.

I have time to inhale and exhale a few times before I shove myself under before the lips hits about 10 feet in front of me.

Somewhere in darkness it grabs me and it feels like I am doing a fine imitation of a diver doing backward layout from the springboard as I get dragged over the falls.

There is some thought about where that red board of mine is before the whirlwind like turbulance lathers, agitates, and rinses me.

I come up, get a breath of air and dive again as another wave pounds me. I think it was smaller or I was just further from the impact zone because it didn't feel too bad. Though I feel the effects from holding my breath for so long.

The 3rd and 4th hits aren't too terrible either except that I brushed bottom on the 4th one and that means I am getting pushed inside.

As I crawl back onto my board, I see that my fears are realized, and I am way inside.

Suddenly a great idea comes to the forefront: work. You've got to be at work. It is warm at work. Friend #1 has already left you to the ocean, abandoned you. You can have a C Monster from the corner store. And a bagel with cream cheese.

As 6 foot tall bank of steaming whitewater is the last straw and I ride it in on my belly like a dog scared of a vacuum cleaner.

Friend #1 is by his car.

We dress, head to Sloat. 4 are out. The peanut gallery in the lot is going full bore with looky-loos.

Some guy asks me if I am gonna go for it. I tell I him I already went at VFW. He asks how was it.

I tell him I didn't catch a wave, got creamed, but the paddle out was worth it.

Posted by: Mr Doof at December 17, 2003 04:55 PM

First off.. Big ups to Christian for even attempting Mav's. Good job on sacking up Christian. Second, Mr. Doof, reading your post made my heart start racing and made my lungs feel like they were half the size. Good job also to you and Friend #1 for charging HUGE OB! s.s. sharkbait, I was at Mav's from about 9-10 I think? Well, time to run. Congrats to everyone who surfed today and is alive :) SC will be pumping tomorrow also!

Posted by: Ian at December 17, 2003 05:29 PM

Doof, nice story!! Way to be out there today. I hid under my fuzzy blankets.

Posted by: dano at December 17, 2003 05:30 PM

um, kaiser, that was me on the "funboard." sorry...but my checkbook doesn't allow for a gun at the moment... it was that or a 6'-9". actually i have surfed la jolla cove on a similar board in only slightly smaller conditions. but then, there's a channel there...and i broke my board that day...

how about the guy on the fish? you see him? (or was he the other "funboard")...

anyways...i think i had the inauspicious honor of being the first one to give up at sloat this morning! i was just getting so hosed and was starting to wonder if i really wanted to be on the outside...

Posted by: paul b at December 17, 2003 05:58 PM

I was the one that Bruce talked to. It took me an hour and a half to get out. The shore side of the outside bar was hellish. Almost impossible to make any ground. Then an hour before the tide switched it released and let a few of us out. It was just dumb luck, beautiful dumb luck. I got one of the top three waves of my life today. Hats off to the others that were out there. It was one of the friendliest line-ups I've ever been in. Let’s do it again soon.

Posted by: CrazyD at December 17, 2003 07:19 PM

There are some photos you might enjoy at:

http://www.surfhumor.com/Photos%205.htm

I am so incredibly impressed by you guys who paddled out.

Today was one to remember.

Posted by: Bruce at December 17, 2003 07:57 PM

Nice Shots Bruce!!!!

Posted by: jdz at December 17, 2003 09:10 PM

Snuck away from work yesterday and went North. Went to check some "secret" spots, the main one didn't have the right sandbar to make it happen. Stopped to check South Beach just for the exhilaration of seeing it with 30'+ faces blowing perfectly off shore and 8-10' white water surge at the shore line. Can't believe I forgot my camera. Got in the water somewhere North of Bolinas at a lonely sharky spot with two people heading out. One didn't last long. Took a couple huge sets on the head while scratching for the horizon when an odd bomb set would come through. Couldn't believe how far out I was and still the waves were breaking- and closing out the "bay". Took the biggest backside wave of my life (I am goofy foot and hate going right- just never had to do it much as a kid). Like rolling into a deep pool backside which I can't imagine doing.... Incredibly beautiful sunset. Next time I'll bring the camera.

Passed up a boat ride to D- beacause I couldn't get away from work at 7:00am. Can't wait to hear the report from the boat crew....

Today looks fun at OB. Gotta work though. Crap.

Posted by: goodmorning at December 18, 2003 09:00 AM

E - on a day like this, we need you to post actual photos...got to see it.

Posted by: tahoe at December 18, 2003 10:44 AM

E - on a day like this, we need you to post actual photos...got to see it.

Posted by: tahoe at December 18, 2003 10:45 AM

Late afternoon on Wed. and it still looked mighty big in the middle of the beach. I watched what must've been solid 12 foot sets, with a few bigger waves thrown in here and there - actually, hard to size / nobody out. These were guarded by what looked like head-high+ shorebreak and LOTS of churning white water - brutal. I walked down to VFW. I had no intention of getting in the water, I just wanted to see what was up. As it turned out, it looked just about doable, even by this old man. There were 4 or 5 surfers in the water. Looked like solid 8-10 foot, with some bigger ones every couple of sets. I watched a couple of guys get in the water at what looked like a pretty good channel. They were both instantly swept north, out of the channel and into a 30 - 40 minute paddle. Over the next hour and a half I saw two rides - both on nearly double overhead waves. Each rider elected to come in and call it pau. Hmmm, maybe not so doable -at least, not by me.
The last time I was out at Ocean Beach on waves that big, there were good channels, not much current and lots of waves being ridden. What was it about yesterday? Was it just a lot bigger than it looked to me, or something else?

Posted by: Jimmie at December 18, 2003 11:13 AM

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