E's Surf Report: Huge weekend! stormy today.

Wow.. once again Turkey day ushered in some fantastic waves to local Bay Area beaches. Thursday was large and well-shaped, offering double-overhead racetrack sections and grooming offshore winds. The swell grew throughout the day, culminating in a few garage size barrels near Taraval at around 5pm. I got on it in the morning and had a blast.. and got blasted a few times.. Nice to see Trout out there!

Then Friday! the day of days in my opinion. The swell diminished in size considerably.. but.. the conditions were absolutely flawless! Head-high sets funnelled in every 4 minutes or so. Extendo, ruler-edged, tapering lines splayed themselves out for us wave-riding enthusiasts to shralp. I rode Kaiser's 7'0" mini-gun for the 3-hour morning marathon sesh and might have actually caught close to 40 waves. It was more board than necessary but it allowed for mucho paddling speed and total ease in catching waves and negotiating the sometimes tricky offshore-whipped ledgy drops. Then Friday afternoon the swell continued its demise but the sun shone brilliantly between patchy cumulus clouds. The ocean looked like a perfectly taught swath of seran wrap.. i mean UTTER TOTAL COMPLETE GLASS! Near flat conditions except for the 5-minute-interval sets which peeled and cracked and peeled along multiple sandbars up and down the beach. A beautiful, peaceful time to be in the ocean or on the beach. One cutback sticks in my head. I shoulder-hopped this one lightly-barrelling set wave after it peaked a few yards outside of me. I spun and angled down the drop.. then accelerated briskly and pumped a few times.. then the wave kind-of bowled and bent inward and i had the presence of mind to hammer a turn into the inviting pocket.. For once i was totally balanced and somewhat successfully slashed a deep divot into the lip of the wave.. I remember putting all my might into the turn and feeling that energy outlay translate into displaced water and an immediate change in direction. Damn.. felt really good.

Saturday!! A new swell pumped in overnight. Lerm and i sat at the computer on friday night at pondered the 24ft 15second papa buoy reading.. Shiiiit.. no more mellow, perfect, gentle, easy OB! Anyway.. i skated down to check it saturday morning only to see Lerm getting out of the water, telling me it was super gnar! He drifted 10 blocks in 40 minutes and suffered through about 3000 duckdives to get out.. Sure enough i looked over the dunes and it was LARGE and pumping and throwing and crazy.. with about 8 rows of whitewater between the beach and the lineup.. Such a difference between friday afternoon and saturday morning. Lerm left his wetty on and we drove south in search of some more user-friendly conditions. We got about a mile down the coast, pulled into second-lot-sloat and watched, perplexed, as chunky, beautiful lines peeled along, only about 100 yards from the beach. only 1 row of whitewater with clean, pure, groping, barrelling sweetness marching in and peeling left like some macking SW swell or something. About 40 heads bobbed around the crowded Sloat lineup but only a few strewn to the south, with just as many rideable waves. We couldn't believe the difference in conditions between here at the middle of the beach. night and day. We paddled out and enjoyed a 2 hour sesh. Snagging bombs, getting ripped from our boards duckdiving powerhouse set waves on the way back out, etc. Nice to experience some serious, controlled, uncrowded, throaty, barrelling waves with offshore winds. Later in the day the swell continued to grow and by nightfall the hell-chargers were dropping atom-bombs from Rivera to Sloat. Some of the bigger waves maybe pushing triple overhead?? Some NASTY wipeouts too, as i think one too many weekend warrior somehow made it to the outside on his log.

Yesterday it was stormy and i didn't see anyone out.

Today more stormy conditions.. though a bit smaller than yesterday. surfable.

Blakestah predicts fun overhead surf until friday.. then more hugeness comes our way! lookout!!!

a few triple crown shots that many of you have probably already seen