E's Surf Report

Believe it or not, Linda Mar was plenty fun this morning. Long nose ridden rights, on every set. Pretty long waits though.

Paddled out to the middle peak with 4 people out. That swelled to about 15 or 20 and then it slowly dispersed to the north end and south end peaks.

Toward the end of the session, I was riding through the crowd and as I came up to trim in on a steeper section, a guy was paddling for the shoulder but not fast enough. I pulled up high and I guess he tried to duck his nose rather than just turn into the soup. As I passed, I felt what was similar to a Kelpy tug, but there was a klunk sound.

Paddling back out I made for the dude to express my apology, and he was gracious at least. Saying, "Accidents happen."

I had to get a couple more waves to get that experience out of the forefront of my skull.

No damage at all to my stick or fin.

Ja, ich bin ein deutscher mann. Standing wave ...does that mean no long paddle out?

Update on the Kauai scene..halloween attack on the wahine ripper....some of the da local boyz, including Bill(veteran shaper and father of Laird not Bethany) Hamilton went a witch hunt. rigged a cable with hooks in hanalei bay and reeled in a fourteen footer. 'spose they're doing the munchkin dance at black pot beach ...ding dong the witch is dead. check it /http://www.kauaiworld.com/.

Oh, I guess I should describe the damge to the other board. 6 or so inches back from the nose of a thruster, sliced right off. Making a 8X8X8 triangle missing from the front.

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Sorry if my asci art is crude.

Maybe this will work better:

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E, good work on the Turd-ification. You won't be dissappointed with Coffey. I sent you an email in regards.

Someone tell me that OB wasn't glassy! Please... I checked the winds, saw the south, so I headed south. Friend #1, where were you exactly? I must have been surfing with you. I was on a funny looking, eggy, psuedo shortboard.

Funny thing did happen at Lindy this a.m. I was checking the scene, the lineup, the shore, the birds, etc. as the waves were small and non-threatening. Anyway, there was a guy that just got out that busted the nose off his shortboard? How does that happen? The waves were like waist high at best. That must have sucked.

Happy Belated Birthday, Robme!

OB: smurf sized, waay down from this morning. High tide is mooshing it. Increasing onshores but water texture isn't too bad. Right now it looks suitable for log rolling. Slow n' easy. The ocean looks like it's exerting much effort just to push some whitewater. Grey skies, grey water, occasional drizzle. When the seagulls and white birds fly around they really pop out, like a mood painting.

Happy surfing,

Pedro is the most accident-prone spot around these parts. Lots of flotsam and shrapnel. I've accidently (honest!) hit people who have dropped in on me; I've been hit by bailed boards, and I have seen ugly scenes develop over waves that, 90% of the time, are barely worth getting wet for. Last Sunday some guy told me I should “WATCH OUT,” after he paddled out in front of me, as I was taking off on a wave!
But the worst for me was on a pretty good, shoulder-high day at Wanderers. I was weaving through a ridiculously crowded pack and had barely kept from hitting a couple of guys I see there all the time. I had just set a line through a sudden steep section, when I saw good surfer I sorta knew right in front of me, trying to scramble out of my way. With no way to straighten out and avoid him, I tried to kick-out and send my board past him. This did not work - I nailed the poor guy. Luckily, it was the flat of my board to the top of his head, no serious damage. But just the same, I HIT HIM … IN THE HEAD!! He was pissed, and rightly so! But he got over it pretty quickly, was cool about it and finally accepted my apology. I still see him in the water all the time, and while we ain’t best bros, or anything like that, he doesn’t give me dirty looks – at least not that I’ve seen. Still, it's hard to get that kinda shit out of your head. I usually give him plenty of space and let him have any wave that comes by – I feel like I still owe him.

Well.... That answers that. Friend #1 took care of that shorty!

For the life of me, I couldn't figure out how that could have happened. There you have it.

Needle in a haystack. Trying to track down a guy we surfed Nexpa with one morning this summer. He lives in Florida. Was going to send us video footage of Thursday 7/31. Anybody know of a Florida blog/forum/niceness equal that I can post to as a place to start my search?

Thanks,
HH

see.. that's why lindy is the greatest!!

i have to say, after years and years of Lindy sessions.. i've finally reached a point in my surfing where i rarely even consider surfing there.. don't get me wrong.. me loves a good Schmlindy sesh! i would never badmouth the 'Mar.. but.. these days.. it's only a south-wind, higher-tide west swell midweek dawnpatrol that gets me psyched to hit it up.. but.. otherwise.. there are usually better waves to be had.

but.. for sentimetal reasons.. Lindy rocks!

the fact that EVERYBODY goes there on the weekends is kinda cool in that it frees up the rest of the local coastline for the rest of us :)

long live lindy!

"Glorious, glowing, gorgeous, gut-wrenching sunrise gallavanting gallantly over gloomy twin peaks"

effective use of alliteration is a treat to behold. overblown attempts to string together as many similar sounds as possible in one sentence makes me puke. sorry but had to express my opinion of your lack of poetic ability.

My recollection is that Lindy used to be a lot kinder gentler place to surf.

The crowds have really come on. The year they started surf camps, the number of totally clueless people in the water was amazing. And it's just gone from there.

I go a few times a year, but really avoid it unless I am desperate and nothing else within my time frame fits.

In any case, prepare for the incoming swell. It's gonna be a rough and tumble ride for the next week. Boathouse will be crowded tomorrow!

RE: the UFO. I just made another small mod, it is ready for more testing. Any volunteers let me know. You would pick up and drop off the 6'8", and have it for riding for a few days. Ideally, ride it 2-3 sessions, and check back in with me. I'd prefer to do it myself, but cannot. Also, I am finding I am an amazing dumbass as my friends have to tell me things multiple times before I listen. So now I have a new policy. Get test-rides from multiple friends, and listen.

Any takers, email blakestah AT blakestah DOT com.

After I got to where I could surf reasonably well (about 2-3 years), I reached a point where the only way that I could surf at Lindy was to adopt the mental state that I would catch everything that came to me and that I would ride 10 (or 15 whatever) and get out as soon as that happened. I had many stellar sessions of 10-15 set waves and most times I avoided incident.

Today, I had about:

15 long nose ride set waves.

5-10 lame rides.

2 "Hey, what are you doing? Stop paddling!" shouts to shoulder hoppers.

1 ride behind a guy who dropped on me. He said, "I was going to go left but the right was really good." I wanted to say especiallly when you are in front, but didn't.

1 chopped nose from my fin.

word.. sorry about causing you to regurgitate alliteration patrol.. a poet i don't claim to be.. though my words have been likened to the regurgitated spewings of an inebriated neanderthal... hmmm..

let's hear some admirable, agreeable alliteration then!

"Stop paddling!" thats funny..

rant: it is the worst thing to me to be going down the line, and watching someone who is just "in the zone" and totally oblivious to whats going on around them paddling for the wave you are on, you see the most determined look on their face and you know your about to get so snaked..even if you hooted or say "got it" or something he wouldnt even here you. the worst..

lindy free since 95..would love to get it good though..still waiting

i should have surfed this morning..

lindy looking pretty good... except for the dropin! bruce's photo..

Got to love that pic. Nice wave and on the margin you just make out the nose of a board about the end the happiness.

Sloat? vs middle beach. I have been surfing the beach for around 10-12 years and i used to surf sloat a lot maybe 5-9 years ago but i never paddle out there anymore. why? i dont know, the last 5 years or so i have been suring middle beach and the north dunes. i dont even check sloat. but this latest video from surfvid.com made me rethink that area, the same day at pacheco the waves were about the same size much more hollow but not as long and open as sloat seemed to be. can anyone comment on the south v. middle beach debate. id love to here from those that surf below the south dunes.

"I reached a point where the only way that I could surf at Lindy was to adopt the mental state that I would catch everything that came to me and that I would ride 10 (or 15 whatever) and get out as soon as that happened."

Great blackjack philosophy of surfing Lindy, Friend #1!

I've gotta say that on the rare occasion that Lindy is good (like in the drop-in pic above), it's really good. Some of my best sessions have been there. Unfortunately 99.5% of the time, it's closed out crap.

And a shout out to lerm for hitting the DP after dropping me off at my place at close to 1:30am last night. I was snoozing this morning...

AFAICT, the surf is always better at Sloat than at Middle Beach. It is especially much less tide sensitive, always bigger on a steep angle swell, less crowded.

Really, there is no reason to go anyplace but VFWs, Kellys, and Sloat.

Somewhere deep down you sorta' have to have some warm feelings for Linda Marginal. After a 20 year break, it's the place I got standing and turning again about 8 years ago. It's seldom good but almost always surfable, and you can ride sloppy butt-slappers at Boat Docks or top-to-bottom closed-out mackers at the North end, frequently on the same day. How's that for choice?

And the karma used to be really great, although now I don't think the vibes are that different from SC. At least at the Lane the beginners migrate to Cowells.

VFWs, not to sound stupid, where is it? i always here VFWs but i never knew where it was a long time ago. Veteran if Foreign Wars Building.

First, let get one thing straight, surfvid is all computer generated. He's a master.

Second, the area of Kirkham to Pacheco ROCKS!

Third, middle of the beach has superior burritos.

'Nuff said

Love/Hate with Lindy. I love it when it gets decent and there are few people around. I hate it when it is marginal and crowded. Weekends... Only if I am desperate, like last weekend.

What makes it seem worse is that you have so many layers of people. Kooks, newbies, old loggers, young loggers, spongers, Inland Empire Dwellers, rippers, mellow stoners, cool-mellow-asian-guy-with-long-hair, me, you (admit it), Blue Crush, the dude in the blue and white van that is there everyday, etc. You see the familiar faces, you see the new faces. You just have to accept that it is like a municipal golf course, anyone can play. It is nice when the waves get bigger, it acts like natural selection.

I fucking love LINDY~! Yeah, I surf there too. I ain't ashamed.

To get to VFWs, you drive south on rt 1 towards Pacifica, turn right just before the Taco Bell. Walk to the south end of the beach and paddle out. THAT SIMPLE!

I honestly think that the sandbar directly in front of the sloat parking lot (first lot) is one of the most consistent spots along OB. I'd wager that more peeling/rideable waves happen there throughout the year (over the last two years at lease) than at any other specific location. It seems that the coast bends slightly toward the east as you head south toward second-lot Sloat. I'm not sure what effect that has but i think it's noteworthy. It's also the easiest and closest check-point from your car.

VFWs is basically beachchalet.. which, imho, is also a standout OB sandbar.. though more liable to shifting than the sloat bar. then you have your mid-beach mystery bars which we'll leave to the adventurous.

i haven't tried the noriega burrito place yet.. maybe i'll skate over there tomorrow..

also.. contest at Rockaway tomorrow morning!? i just spoke with Alex and he says he's competing! Go alex!!!

one time at linda del mar......a girl came down with her rented wetsuit and was about to paddle out on an un-glassed un shaped foam blank.

she "rented" it in sf surf shop.
(i suspect they were busy and told her to grab a "a foam board" off the rack in back and didn't notice as she slipped out.

linda del mar, rincon del mar, cardiff del mar......sounds good to me.

the best is when they show up from Suisun in a day glo dive suit, farmer john, with a 30 year old yellowed out single fin that's got craters in it, black 29 year old wax still on the deck and charge the 6 foot negative low tide cloesouts in front of the showers.

thats where i got run over 3 years ago by an overly agressive long boarder who said to me that "in the end who cares, as long as the surf is good, people will come" havent been back since. IS THAT SIMPLE!?

kellys!!!

it aint really rideable over 8 feet but i dont mind. and when all the elements are working it could be one of my favorite waves ever..

woot woot

been surfing sloat more often lately and really enjoying it.

ive alwayse understood the middle to alwayse be the biggest

part of me thinks its all the same, it just looks different from different altitudes..

I did what is the second best reason to live in Cruz (you know, besides there being a lot of banana slugs here)... mountain biked. Hey, south winds and no swell. Awesome double-top secret 2-hour 90% single track ride in the woods. Shhhweet. Only laid it down once when my peddle contacted some mysterious force and instantly stopped the bike. An over-the-bars yard sale. I even went back and checked the trail, but there was nothing that I could have hit. Hum... is it the 13th? Single track riding is all about the flow.

I'm requesting some pics of Da Beach on Tuesday when I am hiding under my fuzzy blankets.

-d

bagel.. i agree on the general "sameness".

great lindy stories!!

i love lindy! i still surf there.. fo sure!

i've scored some great waves there. saw a longboarder get completely, utterly shacked and make it out! i mean, a DEEP fricken barrel! i paddled over to him afterwards and said, "Dude.. i've rarely seen a barrel that deep, and definitely never here at Lindy!". He smiled and said, "cool, thanks!" Just a mellow 45-yr-old logger getting shacked off his nut at Lindy!

yeah!

Middle is always bigger and harder to get to than either of the ends. Except on south Swells when Kellys is bigger.

Sloat is better on higher tides than the rest of the beach. Sloat also is easiest to paddle out to the peak. Tends to be more peaky than the middle as well.

VFW's always breaks faster than anywhere else on the beach unless the middle is suckng sand on the inside.

Ortega to Santiago is always crappy because when it is good, there is an agro local on a longboard that will surf over you and cut the nose off your board.

Pacheco is always more crowded because people see it on Surfpulse and paddle out just to piss off Blakestah.

Sloat is no good when it is good because Kdalle will be picking off all the set waves on his oversized board.

So basically if you want to surf OB, you should surf in front of E's place which is I think around k'ham. All the people in the water are niceness folks who will give you all the waves you want.

i heard it is too loud out and around kirkham.

See, this is the reason I surf My Bathtub. You guys can have the beaches. Tracking that sand all around, in your car, around the house, wetsuits... There is nothing good about it.

Its just me, my zinka and my rubber ducky...

classic.

ps. everyone knows the best burritos are in the upper balboa. thats right, chino's.

That is why Kaiser is so hard core. He doesn't need the photographers to be there before he goes out in his tub. He's on it rain or shine in all conditions. A true charger.

i don't know if you're being sarcastic or not bagel, but i dig chino's. i've heard people knock it for being dirty but i think their burritos rule.

i'm gonna be all about some baker beach 8 foot suicide death barrels this weekend at the high tide. bring it!

oh yeah, this guy rob saw a shark up at salmon on wednesday:

"Ok,It was on wednesday, in the AM. I didnt have my watch on so I dont know the exact time. I was up north, by the rock, almost to Miwock beach (if thats how you spell it). Anyways, It was probably around 9AM, and I am waiting for a set to come in. I looked out and low and behold a dorsal fin! It was south of me, probably 200, and a little further out then me. I dont know how deep the water was, but it was warmer then it usually is. I thought my eyes were tricking me, but it was moving. It ducked under and came back about 10 seconds later, then left. I paddled over to the sticks and told them I spotted a shark, one of them confirmed it, and I bugged out. The shark attack last year was at B-walk, If my memory serves me correctly."

"I dont like it. Also, me and some friends found a dead baby great white about 4 months ago. Washed up on shore. The ranger said it was a once in a life time experience, beign as how sharks dont die that often. Anywyas, that guy was three feet in length and weighed approx. 50 lbs. "

bbr, im never sarcastic when it comes to chinos..its all about proprtions! what good burrito shop isnt dirty? ive actually heard people knock it too but i aint hearing it

Do you OB regulars (who the rest of us mortals worship) realize that you are debating the merits of different spots along a nasty beach break with (a) the worst paddle out in the western world, (b) an irritating bicep-burning treadmill current, (c) the most horrible salt-water-sand enema shore break, (d) the best blue-face hold down in NorCal, (e) more ice cream headaches per capita than any place south of Oregon, (f) limited parking and (g) those crappy low-flow showers at Sloat? Are you nuts? And we're discussing the drawbacks of surfing in Pacifica?

I ragged on a Lane Lizard friend the other day- told him that he was a wimp even though he was charging the outer peak at double overhead. Told him to drive north and hang with you OB wackos. After those really rough sessions do you go home for a cold water shower and a whipping from your girlfriend?

We mortals need to know.

Oh...my...gosh (as my 2 year old son would say) that was a classic Friday post-a-thon(did I just coin that term or what?). I like it...especially Friend #1's ob list. And Chinos rocks.

Buona Sera amigos.

Isn't Chinos the place where if you order cheese on your burrito, it comes in a rectangular peeled-off-the-stack slice? Gah! It's all about the al pastor burrito in the joint behind the Safeway in the strip mall near today's most talked-about break.

Niceness crew:
Reading the niceness site is about the most fun one can have behind a monitor (and 2nd to a great sesh.) Well, being "a freshie" to this site I've gathered up the courage to write in and spew a few words to hopefully ignite a few chuckles and shared feelings. Back in '85 (our senior year in High School), a few buddies and I decided we were going to surf. We all bought 5 10 quad fins, 6mm scuba suits (with built in 10 mm hoods) and charged head first and fearlessly to Pacifica (we grew up in the East Bay). We scrapped, clawed, scrounged, bit, swore and just plain brute forced (KOOKED!)our way into the art of surfing. After six months, one of us stood up. Shortly after the rest of us manged to stand and ride straight to the beach (We called this type of wave a "straight"). Then one day, one of us mysteriously did something more amazing: the acheivement of "angle" (which was riding along the face). Finally we were surfing!

Anyway since 85, things at Lindamar have changed dramatically. Back then there were never more than 6-10 guys on a peak. Yes, Local attitude was heavy then and they were wicked to Kooks. I remember comments like "Dude, you're dangerous", "Fucking Kook, go home", or the more subtle yet discernable talk between locals, "Dude there's so many Kooks out here, what's up?" I remember feeling angry, humiliated and powerless to these comments and vowed that I would be patient, tolerant and kind to all Kooks no matter what and I must say I have stuck to that promise. As our surfing improved, we began to surf Santa Cruz, bought nice O'neil 3/2's and managed to acquire decent thrusters. We moved to SF after college and rooted our sufing at OB. We became LOCALS. Currently, I find myself living in Oakland, surfing a Long Board and only surfing a few times a month.

Anyway, back to Linda(war). 2003. Wow, what is going on there. I went out a week ago to average Lindys and paddled out on the most uncrowed peak. Feeling good and expecting a friendly "howzit" vibe I was excited to score a few scrapers and enjoy the whole experience. Withing two minutes, I noticed that a handful of super bull dykes (they could surf well) were dominating and holding court out there. Not only that, but they were flashing me "stink eye" and paddling aggresively for everything, yelling at Kooks and surfing straight for other surfers, spongers. My jaw dropped. Lindamar dominated by female aggro types. This is bizzare. These women were just as aggressive and mean as the Alpha men surf types. Well, I paddles away and surfed a lesser peak toward boatdocks with some humble Barneys and began to enjoy myself again.

Wow. Things have changed.

Like the river pics! I drove through Jackson Hole, they have a surfable wave on the river there, so I was looking for it.

Met this guy at a kayak shop with a bunch of pics of himself surfing on it. He said he took a surf trip to Costa but didn't like it as much as the river caues' it was too much paddling.

Didn't get to surf the river, couldnt find the spot off the highway, there was construction , and rain.

To the person that thinks OB surfers are psycho, its got great waves much of the fall.
and its worth the paddle. I prefer the chalet and Pacheco, usually hollower smaller waves than Sloat and less of a paddle.

As for Lindy, Linda(war), Lin DULL Mar, Linda Marginal, Pathetica, Pollutica, or the just the Closeout Sewer (nickname capital of the world), its a Utility spot, Desperation spot, that actually has a nasty paddle when big due to closeouts and mushy peaks, and nasty people due to cramped quarters.

As we head into the Big wave season..Lindy as well as the friggid Jetty, will be places for shelter from Victory at Sea...During these times I think I might have to cruise down to SC.

Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped.

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