E's Surf Report

e, you the man! an epic birthday score, justly deserved for years of consistent surf stoke. sick bro!! keep on keepin' on.

thanks Jake! right on..

major fires in SO cal.. hopefully they'll get contained soon..

http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/satellite/animation.san.1km.vis.html

e, glad to hear that things lined up so well for ya on your bday!

insane weekend of surf! i musta gotten real lucky this morning, cuz i got about 10 killer rides with 2 overhead lefts all the way to the beach. yesterday morning was killer too. i totally hear you about having the section open up and time to do something with it!

Couple shots of machado that I got from the CWC yesterday.

http://us.f1f.yahoofs.com/bc/d1dad45/bc/pictures/cwc/103-0319_IMG.jpg?bfjSWn_ARmvR1JwI

http://us.f1f.yahoofs.com/bc/d1dad45/bc/pictures/cwc/103-0321_IMG.jpg?bfjSWn_AlT4v629m

http://us.f1f.yahoofs.com/bc/d1dad45/bc/pictures/cwc/103-0322_MVI.AVI?bfjSWn_AwmRSowdI

I got a few OK shots from the CWC on Saturday after surfing Scott's (it was really fun). Brother was it hot in Santa Cruz! My Golden Retriever Rocky was complaining the whole time.

http://www.surfhumor.com/Photos%203.htm

Friday Arvo: Nuggets
Saturday Morn: Nuggets
Saturday Night: Reno, sucked
Sunday all day: Nuggets
This morning: Nuggets

Need new arms. Need rest. Surfing @ lunch. Gotta surf.

score! thanks for the recap, e--you definitely got the birthday session you so richly deserve....

sunday: good god!! so beautiful!! so smooth!!!! i surfed at the north end of lindy eeeeeaarly in the AM, after dropping a friend at the airport for an 8:00 flight. when i saw the waves there, i was simply unable to contain my glee and continue driving. superglassy headhigh sets, which, unfortunately, turned evermore finicky and smaller as the tide shifted. but i still managed to make a noodle of myself, caught 10 waves, and got three that sort of made the others pale in comparison. i was practically exploding with joy! for my tastes, i could not imagine it being any better. and then i drove to sloat.......hot damn!!!

blue leash, xcel suit, orange pad, buzz cut, merrick board--you are the man! in the barrel left and right, just ripping!! watching you surf was great, great fun.

kewl.. sounds like everybody scored this weekend!! that's what's up!!

don't know what happened to me this morning.. maybe i was just at the wrong spot?? or just jaded by the easy-pickin's of perfection on sunday.. but it sounds like OB worked for most of y'all.. rad!

i also want to mention that i got seriously launched over the falls yesterday in one of the more heinous wipe-outs i've ever suffered.. got caught-up in the offshore-licked lip.. missed my barrel-opportunity?? and then just free-fell over the falls maybe 5 or 6 feet strait down.. smacking face-first into the water below.. snapping my neck back pretty good.. but.. luckily.. no injury!!!

sweet.

So good to hear you all scored. Several nice sessions leaves a lingering smile and all around good vibes.

Sat KQED, "They're not the best at what theydo, they're the only ones who do what they do." A little nostalgiac trip for me.

e - Good onya for the birthday surf, and many happy returns of the day!
Saturday was my first day out at at Ocean Beach in well over a month - the old back is feeling much better. REAL crowded, but oddly enough, I got a bunch of waves. No one got in my way, and I only had to back off on one wave because someone else was already in it.
Sunday, same deal - waves maybe a little better and the crowd was actually a little thinner at my specific location. I got a couple of set waves that were approaching the headhigh range - or was it just my inflated imagination? In any case, lots of fun.
On a more serious topic: the fires in San Diego chased my mother and sister out of their respective homes last night, they're back home today and the flames seem to be headed the other direction - for now ... However, they say shit is CRAZY down there - hundreds, if not thousands, of homes will probably be lost.

Saturday AM at Sloat was firing. I was talking to a guy in the water that checked the north end and said it was half the size. Cordory lines rolling through with outside easy drops and inside barrels. Crowded but good vibes on a pristine SF surf day. It seemed like the one bar right in front of the 1st lot channeled all oceans energy (that day) into a perfect line. Epic weekend!!!! Good to see that everyone got some.

not that i have anything "new" to add...but i gotta chime in with my $0.02 re the risiculous weekend!

certainly not epic size and i'm sure that the rhino-chasers in our midst were a little bored, but for me...the conditions couldn't have been better. multi-seshies over the course of the weekend leave me with completely satisfying noodle arms! finest two seshies were Friday and Sunday eve. chill vibes...good waves...good peeps (including Christian on Friday who brightened the line-up with his perma-stoke...and ripping slurfing!)...and incredible sunsets. my fav thing about surfing has gotta be watching the sun set in a series of still frames from the peak of each passing swell! well...maybe watching the sun set and then catching a perfect A-frame head-high peak, dropping backside, making it through challenging, fast sections, and flying along a black wall of joy all the way to the beach.

...or something like that! ; )

E, that totally hooks it. You totally deserve that sort of birthday...

Sounds like everyone had a great weekend. We totally deserve it! Yeah...

Yeah, OB this am, I too had a tough time being in the right spot (though Jerm was always there getting one, to the right or left, a little further inside, a little further outside, always at the peak. Go Jerm!)

Last night at Kelly's. Boy, some freight trains were coming through there... Easy to catch, and big ol' drops, plus a shoulder all the way to the cliff, if you wanted it. My fish was just clattering down the face. But Biggsie on his red board was running the show...

Also, thanks everyone for volunteering to read my little mystery thingie. I can't tell you how much I appreciate it.

The doc green-lighted me to test my shoulder out. I got an hour out of it yesterday. Good fun, good to be back in the water, rode the newest UFO, a 6'8", which accelerates and turns like speedy gonzales. Wish my shoulder held out longer, it coulda been more fun. See where this goes, but I suspect in another 4-6 weeks we'll be talking about the next step in shoulder fixing.

Got feedback on the board from a few heads too, they basically said the same thing, and gave me a few things to work on. Gotta get an outer bar version done soon...

that sucks blakestah!! I hope you recover quickly and start chargin' again!!

from fluidzone (via tyrez)

blakestah - glad to hear you were able to get at least a little bit of water time. You know the drill, don't overdo it ... blah, blah, blah ...
Here's hoping that whatever "the next step" turns out to be, it does the trick.

Everyone: congrats on the surf this weekend!

mid OB: AAAAAAAAAAIIIIIIIIYYYYYYYYYYYYYEEEEEEEEEEEAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGG!!! Ridiculous. Smaller and less shape/more mush than yesterday, but still. For god's sake. Stepped outside, offshores strong and hot as a dragon's breath. Please. Everyone drop whatever you're doing and surf today. Go. Do it for me. I'm still healing from an injury. [Forgive my whining]...but this weather....these conditions...2 months out of water...*primal scream* oh please please you must all get outside today! Yes!

good amateur vid of the Lane from a few weeks back
www.surfvid.com/video/100803a.wmv

sharkbait - get better quick!! thanks for loaning me the rack and sock!! they worked great!

christian.. nice stoke, brah!

robme, thnx for the props.

blakestah, hope your recovery goes well.

e, what up shreddy? (definition of shreddy: a head that shreds)

1:30 PM

light onshore breeze - maybe 5 knots

offshores are done for now.

e, that fluidzone sequence is NUTS.. those rascally b-boarders can do anything!!
congrats on all you guys's weekend scores.

meanwhile I broke my second board of the trip this morning at sunset..booo.

peace to you folks.. JessBertrand

bertand, what up brah! Two boards, not bad. Least it's sunset. Talking points, bragging rights, all that. Getting ready for the zoo? The triple crown must be headed that way in a few weeks or something?

i think i can hear that guy screaming, "whooohaa!"

to all those on injured reserve right now: many many good vibes. blakestah...sharkbait...anyone out there lamenting silently...hang in there. desiderata coming up around the bend!

Kaiser went to the beach and saw Bagel. Bagel not working. Kaiser back at work. Bagel not.

Kaiser - Stupid
Bagel - Smart

Tide goes out, waves gonna get REAL good. Sunny out, stupid surfers out, stupid drivers out. Be careful, have fun, go surf.

Christian, we missed ya @ mexican food on Friday night. Next time for sure.

ya robme! it's getting a little zoo-y already. the judging towers are going up, more and more people around. with slater winning at mundaka the events should be pretty dramatic too.

pipe finally started doing its thing this weekend, and all the heavies were out. I'm giving up on the hope of getting some quiet time alone with the wave, getting to know each other slowly. I think it's gonna be all or nothing.

sometimes I miss sweet OB> that's when niceness comes in handy!

e - sounds like a pretty damn good birthday extravaganza!

surfed at the generals spot around 11:30 and had some fun ones. Definitely bigger out there than it looked from the beach. Christian, you are right, those waves were moving pretty good. And definitely some southies comin in. All in all a good time.

Check it: next major swell another south?

ooops that was me (robme)
Check it: next major swell another south?
http://facs.scripps.edu/surf/nepap.html

stinkeye shots from this morning north of Santa Cruz!!

sickness abounds. sick to read about everyone's weekend scores, sick fluidzone sequence (gnarly!! wave), stinkeye shots, stoke pervading everywhere!! i just realized that the day I can get wet again in the pacific has made it onto the long range models... and i can start drooling and anticipating and getting ready to get shreddy, shreddy. wooh! keep singing everybody. 'you are the song that the mornin' brings'.

Hit the super-secret spot known as "where in the world is Carmen [blank]" @12:30. Ai-yai-yai! Walled-up head-high south lines just rolling in. Special south-swell circumstance: even though the right-hand shoulders frequently looked appealing, they almost never delivered, instead mushing out. The lefts, on the other hand, were roping (le terme du jour), hauling arse down the line for way-longer-than-usual-for-OB rides. Goofyfooters' delight. Good backhand work for us reglars.

I imagine you probably wont say or dont know, but where were those North SC shots taken. looks much better than OB did this morning....probably 150 boards in the water too.

dsx.. i don't know where those shots are from..

redworm.. sounds like you found some solid waves!! good on ya!! hopefully that shit will hold till tomorrow's dawnie!!

OB: what redworm said , a little south in the water. Sun is blazing at infinite kilowatts, just burned my retinas trying to peek outside! Def. schloppier and smaller than this am, still looks funner than hell. About 8000 peeps in the water, all goofyfoots. ;)

Enjoy!

I couldn't help myself...

Title: Water Moving

Yeah. What the weekend. Crowds were on pretty good behavior for the most part. Fun times.

Saturday morning at the break of dawn-Sloat. I was putting on my wettie and it was just light enough to see a handful of surfers already in the water. Surfed for three hours til I just couldn't paddle any more. Drifted down to Wawona a couple times and walked back up the beach. The paddle out was so easy it wasn't worth trying to hold position. Peaks were abundant and spread out. Went home. Took a short nap. had lunch and hung out on the beach with my wife the rest of the day. Perfect day.

Sunday morning was sooo glassy. After a few just ok waves and a not so ok dumper, I caught a nice clean left with a steep drop. Pumped a couple times to get some speed with the lip chasing right behind me. Got ahead a little and decided to crack a figure eight-ya know, hit the backside bottom turn, spray the top, cut back nose first into the lip and backside back down the line. What a plan on the fly. As I was preparing the bottom turn, I moved my right foot back to put a little extra punch in the turn. Stepped off the back of the board. My left leg still on top of the board shot up the face. My right leg and the rest of my body shot down into the water. Insta-pain in the left hamstring.

I got back on my board and paddled out again. I hoped the pull was just a temporary strain that would go away in a couple minutes. It didn't and I'm back on the wounded list again.

Limped up the beach, hopped into the truck, drove home. I got the RICE routine down. Rest. Ice. Compression. Elevate. I think this one will keep me out for at least two weeks. I felt a little shredding but no big pop. That's good. It was the semitendonosus for you anatomy geeks.

I did stretch before going in as always but this was just too quick and too hard. Well the good news is I'll be taking pictures of all you OB rippers!

ok, not as cool as Kaiser's pics... but my feelings about california:

I think we have had 5 days of perfect weather. Unreal. Blakestah, awesome you are back in the water already. Glad folks got some waves.

-d

happy birthday e! glad you scored so pleasantly on your big day. looks like the beach has been getting hooked up with solidness of late...the mid-atlantic is putting up a little scrap again these next few days with some solid SE swell with offshores, and finally the big yellow guy is allowing me to get some pre-work sessions again longer than a quick one wave johnny sesh.

OB goes overhead on a 4 foot south (yay long period). Waves were starting to spit by the end of the session too - that's been a while. Winter here we come.

Where were all the short boarders Sunday morning?

Thought that maybe you all would like some notes from the other end of the day- I have a job that mostly prevents any dawn patrol action due to its early hour. So today I raced out to OB at 4:30 trying to beat the new time paradigm and crested the hill to see poop-house going off. South. Barrels. You know. I got in quick as I could marveling at the combination of summer conditions and cold water. Wierd.

I stayed out nabbing peeler after peeler until the sun went down. That's when it started geting good. At first it seemed to get less consistant and a backwash started to come off the beach. Then it went back on- the crescent moon was rising and you could see all of the moon; all that was cast in shadow and the lighted crescent. The moon hung over a band of orange left by the sunset that seemed only to gain in intensity. The stars started to show themselves and the off-shore wind brought the warmed smell of soil and heat out to the water.

By this time I was the last in the water. I couldn't bring myself to come in. As it got darker the waves held the moonlight over my shoulder and the city lights reflected in the wave faces in front of me as I S-turned down the line, not wanting to smack the lip but just to emerge from the take-off barrel (that seemed to be the norm today) and cruise down the line watching the city lights ahead and at my feet, the board cutting through them as I went.

It has been a long time since I surfed moonlight (It was DARK when I was spooked in by an elephant seal barking at me from 6' away; there was no longer even any orange on the horizon.). But now I know that I miss it. If tonight had been a full moon...?

I'll be there tomorrow. Look for the orange Landcruiser and the long-hair who ain't a hippy. I'll be riding an epoxy thruster. Sorry shapers- it was cheap. I'll be out late and happy to share.

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