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The gauntlet

Heavy metal out there this morning.
Imagine cacophonous, gigantic, evil power chords being played in some grandiose open-air arena.. Stacks upon stacks of Marshall amps... huge PA system amplifying the sound out toward the outer reaches of the cosmos.. Some pissed-off speed-metal virtuoso hammering out gut-wrenching, maniacal, twisted-but-strangely-attractive psychadelic jazz chords.... well.. OB was not fucking around this morning.. it isn't huge.. it's not DOH breaking on the outer bars.. but.. it's thick.. it's not to be trifled with. Robme, Lerm and i paddled out at VFers around 7:10. A particularly unusual amount of surfers were cruising and looking for waves this morning. not sure why.. There is a slight offshore breeze out of the NE.. the SF buoy only reads 6.2ft 11seconds.. but the cali buoys is at 11.4ft 14seconds and the papa buoys is at 18ft 14seconds!!! soo.. it's only gonna get bigger.. There also will be no real daytime lowtide today or this weekend so you're typical big-swell/low-tide spots won't be an option. maybe head up to Marin or down to the cruz.. or elsewhere.. anyway.. paddling out this morning i took this sucking, barrelling bitch/beast of a wave square on the noggin'.. it ripped me clean away from my board and ragdolled my weak, scrawny little human arse all over the place.. i started to panic but then remembered the Robme counting technique and mellowed my shit out. i finally came up, collected my board.. and sprinted toward the outside.. turns out that same wave wrecked Lerm too, snapping his leash right in half. He paddled in to get his board and then came back out and surfed leashless, though we never saw him again because we were getting sucked south. The bombs were rolling in out there.. i caught a thick, fun left for my first ride and then paddled into a large, set-wave right. I had to paddle down the face to get into the behemoth.. then i was up and cruising along at a brisk gate.. the wave started to bowl somethin' fierce and i was headed strait for this menacing, gurgling, threatening force of nature.. where much of the ocean seemed about to rise up, barrel and then destroy.. luckily i softly pulled off the back before that happened.. and then.. another 30 minutes of sitting.. waiting.. avoiding closeouts... waiting.. avoiding more closeouts.. getting sucked down to almost Judah.. i ended up paddling in as i couldn't snake another ride.. dunno?? i think the bars are better around VFers than in the lincoln/judah area..

last night was really good!! hope that some of you braved the fog and hit it.. as the fog actually lifted for the sunset and the uber-enjoyable, head-high niceness lolled in and peeled here, there and everywhere..

i'm off to santa barbara tonight.. thanks everyone for the advice!!

john sent me this email last night..

hello e. i'm emailing you because i visit the niceness surf report all
the time and just wanted to contribute for the first time. surfed * today and
it was plenty surfable. my friend bought a disposable water camera and
he was able to snap a few photos of some of the many barrels that came
through. that's me by the way in the greenroom. got a little deeper a
second later he snapped it. stoked! heh.
also, i was wondering if you could post an ad on your site about our
fundraiser event this Saturday (Oct 18) at the Pacifica Community
Center at 540 Crespi Drive, Pacifica. the show's purpose is to raise
funds for our upcoming documentary film about two Filipino-American
surfers that want to reconnect their American upbringing with their
Filipino ancestry. Dan Moreno, owner of SonLight Surf Shop in Pacifica
is one of the two that are going. anyway, we'll have live bands, food,
short surf films, possibly a stand up comedian, a short drama film and
the trailer of the movie, The Gift of Barong: A Surfing and Cultural
Odyssey. first show starts at 5:30pm and second show starts at 8pm.
tickets are $10.

a second show is schedule for the Oct 25th at 1808 Fifth St. in
Berkeley at a place called Pusod. same line up but the first show
starts at 6pm and the second show is at 8pm. tickets for that show is
$12.
thanks a lot e! and thanks for the site. it always gets me stoked
especially when i'm at school and i need it. hope you can check out the
show.


local waves..
sweet

john in the slot
sweet

nice pics john! that fundraiser sounds kewl. speaking of fundraisers, why don't we set up a fundraiser to clean up pacifica. seeing dirty diapers and such in the line up is enough to make me sign up.

fun sesh today despite my leash breaking. funny thing is, as soon as i got to shore, i saw another board wash up. ob power! kaiser, nice brand spaking new 7'0. did you get any good ones on the maiden voyage?

Posted by: lerm at October 17, 2003 11:06 AM

In addition to the Billabong goings-ons, there will be a Surfrider Bar-b-q on Saturday @ Lincoln for anyone who is interested. It will go from 11-3, and there will be a group paddle at noonish, and lot's of goodies and give aways all day. Here's the link to the evite:

http://www.evite.com/pages/invite/viewInvite.jsp?inviteId=RJNYJFAOJVCUQSKGVUCW&li=iq&src=email

Posted by: adam at October 17, 2003 11:09 AM

Yep, it's hittin' out there. Just got back from walking the dog on the beach. Too big for my kook ass. Pretty crowded but tons of unridden waves coming through. Saw a little guy in a red wettie absolutely killing it on the southernmost bar at VFers. Anybody know who that was?

Posted by: mwsf at October 17, 2003 11:16 AM

let me guess? the Jetty? Producing?

Producing like Aaron Boone. Go Yanks.

Posted by: tom at October 17, 2003 11:29 AM

DAMN! Was it me, or was it unloading SUPER LARGE on not much water inside? I don't know if it is VDubs or what, but in is menecing to look over the edge of the oncoming wave and see brown, sand-gurgling water right where you would make your bottom turn. I guess I wasn't really at VDubs once we all drifted to Irving/Judah area. Whatever... I chicken-shitted several times for good reason.

I got absolutely worked after trying to catch a wave this morning. The ole "rip-the-zipper-down-on-the-wettie" kind where you get 2 gallons of icey joy right down the small of your back! Sweet...

Lerm, I got a few but I need to get used to it. Went over the front twice after getting to my feet. Not used to that much board under me I guess. I saw Robme catch a sweet ride on my paddle out, went backside pigdog on it! Nice work.

On the Pacifica beeach clean up tip, I would be greatful to fundraise for a good cause like that but there is no doubt that it would just "re-polute" within weeks. No one takes care of the beaches around here. Can we get some fire pits installed and like a "trash" cop? Damn, they ticket people for leashless dogs, ticket for breaking a 40 OZ in a bonfire!!!!

Posted by: Kaiser at October 17, 2003 11:53 AM

BRUCH OFFER: takers bagel and coffee space for Oct 25-26 or Nov 1-2? I've got some friends staying over so it'll hardly be Buckingham Palace, but enough peeps chime in I'll sweep and grab a helluva lot of bagels. Tad more disorganized this time around, but 'tis the surf season, can't waste these weekends!

Still popping anti-inflammatories like candy, yearrrg. Severe surf dementia confirmed. Not quite home yet, will chime in with fully beer-goggled biased OB observations later today.

Cheers,

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at October 17, 2003 11:54 AM

its gonna kick tomorrow

be cool to see the "group paddle" and the "Billabong Air Show" in DOH+ conditions...

I'll be there, filming.

Posted by: blakestah at October 17, 2003 12:29 PM

blakestah, when you say stuff like that it makes me nervous...

i went out in the sunny fog last night and surfed like an idiot. no, i won't even say that: i wasn't surfing, i was paddling at random. i don't know what it was about the sunset, but i got into such a completely spaced-out mood. really, really not present. i ended up just floating away...up...and then down...way out...then back...just...out there. i came in feeling utterly clueless.

Posted by: friendly at October 17, 2003 01:08 PM

Blakesthah - there's no way a group is going to paddle out in 2OH! I'm sure you knew that though. Same thing happened last year and nobody paddled anywhere, well except for a couple guys that went out, caught 1 wave each and came in. I hope the billabong thing goes down. I'd like to see how easily(?)the pro's get through the inside.

Kaiser-after the bbq couple weeks ago, I filled a large trash-can-on-wheels with (other peoples) bottles and sharp objects from the surrounding area.

Suggestion to all. Don't burn wood with nails embedded. It's relly bad for the bare footers.

Posted by: Dennis at October 17, 2003 01:22 PM

What a killer day outside. I think a nice, big storm would help with beach conditions... get some more sand out there. Anyway, Blakestah thanks for doing some filming. It sounds like it's gonna be exciting out there tomorrow. I'll be cowering at a protected spot if I decide to deal with the crowds.

-d

Posted by: dano at October 17, 2003 01:28 PM

Just took a look at the South beach cam. The Coast Gaurd is surfing in a rescue boat. Must be a wild ride hanging onto those ladders as the boat crashes through the breakers. Hope the brought their little brown paper bags with them.

Posted by: Dennis at October 17, 2003 01:30 PM

awesome! had the last 2 days off surfed yesterday, and this morning at kellysish...my ear completely closed 2 nights ago and just went to my doc who tried to flush it out with one of those ear flushers..didnt work...he told me about this over the counter thing, got it gonna try it than stick my earplugs in and maybe surf again...if it wasnt gotten consideralbly bigger than this morning, liked it looked to be doing..so can any one email me some ear docs names that might be able to hook me up..preferably in the city.? that would be awesome...i remember a while back people were talking about thier docs...anyway total fall day today out here..beauty...that billibong air show should be fun to watch tomorrow, ive never really seen people boosting airs at huge ocean beach.

Posted by: bagel at October 17, 2003 01:35 PM

Instead of an air show how about some Billabong pros and crusty OB locals simply having a contest to see who can paddle outside? Winner gets a free rescue from the Coast Guard ;)

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at October 17, 2003 01:41 PM

http://www.keck.ucsf.edu/~dblake/coastie.wmv

bagel, email me about your ear. I am not an MD, but I do work in the ENT department at UCSF. There are a few easy things to do that can help before you go see about getting drilled.

blakestah AT blakestah DOT com

I predict the airshow is a no-go. But, we'll see.

Posted by: blakestah at October 17, 2003 01:41 PM

ugh...the nasty ear slug rears it's ugly head...let us know the prognosis bagel...I know your pain.

It will be interesting just to be on the beach tomorrow to see if the pros can get each other amped enough to paddle out...lot's o pressure with all the onlookers there waiting to see some big airs, you got to think.

Posted by: jdz at October 17, 2003 01:52 PM

E, Do you have any more of those pics from John? Love that underwater cam action.

Posted by: Me at October 17, 2003 01:53 PM

Hey all--
Checking in to see howzit.
Surfed this am on the outerbars just north of Sloat (blakestah knows the spot). Nice size sets, well spaced. The Destroyer™ is a champ in these conditions. THIS feels like the first shot of real OB juice for this season. I tried to ride my last wave to the beach. Caught a set waveway outside and rode it through. When it hit the inside bar it just exploded over me. Nice holddown in the OB coffee.
Mañana gonna be, um, interesting.
Go get it! Hey, it's only water.

Posted by: kdalle at October 17, 2003 01:56 PM

Blakestah, those Coasties really know how to hit an off the lip!

-d

Posted by: .dano at October 17, 2003 01:59 PM

What's the timing on the big-wave, non-air show tomorrow? Looks like a demo is going on at 10am and the surf show is going on at noon. Is the demo some sort of in-store appearance thing or is it surfing as well?

Posted by: curious george at October 17, 2003 01:59 PM

www.dirtypower.net

Posted by: goodmorning at October 17, 2003 02:23 PM

Posted by: bbr at October 17, 2003 02:38 PM


The demo is a show of the new "air" boards. These boards are short and fat and designed for lift in lip launching. There is a sort of parallel pro surfing tour based only on catching air, and this new style of "air board" has evolved from that.

The non-air show is gonna be watching guys on short wide 5'9" boards paddle out. Actually, I really like watching super talented people surf, it is a pleasure, but this may be funny instead.

I have nightmares in which I am trying to paddle out and The Destroyer™ nearly runs me down over and over...

Posted by: blakestah at October 17, 2003 02:41 PM

For those heading south this weekend---the HMB Pumpkn Festival is on. Traffic will be reeeeeal sloooow through town. Take 280/17 route if you're heading to SC from SF.

Posted by: kdalle at October 17, 2003 03:06 PM

goodmorning - Thanks. Just went and downloaded "lost souls day". This is the stuff we should be listening before the paddle-out tomorrow morning and sunday morning. Steady, clear hard-driving. good stuff.

cheers

Posted by: Jack at October 17, 2003 03:45 PM

OB: Eep. '" Seething Cauldron" come to mind. Sunny, sloppy, warm. Ironman paddle. Saw maybe one person waaaay waaaaaaaay out...needed binocs to see...he's drifting to Japan. Also took off on an outer bar BOMB. Lots of energy being thrown about out there.

Happy weekend,

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at October 17, 2003 04:53 PM

SS, I take it there will be no arvo sesh at OB tonight for us mere mortals?

Posted by: Kaiser at October 17, 2003 04:58 PM

Kaiser: Are ya feelin' lucky, punk?

[ hell if I know! ]

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at October 17, 2003 05:11 PM

I think I can... I think I can....

Posted by: Kaiser at October 17, 2003 05:15 PM

leadbetter..

there seems to be alot of west in this swell.. damn.. i am VERY psyched to be headed to santa barbara!!!! my arse will be up and audi no later than 6am tomorrow morn!!

hopefully i'll get some pics

Posted by: e at October 17, 2003 05:45 PM

dano - at noon the airshow was fogged in, so I shot video at the other end, with Christian and Kaiser hanging out (and Kaiser donating his doubler to the cause). I'll let folks know when a cut is available - it was macking outer bars stuff, and one of our best locals was killin it.

I heard the airshow went off, but I haven't talked to anyone who saw it.

I also heard Bob Wise sold enough wetsuits to feed the entire outer Sunset for a while.

Posted by: blakestah at October 18, 2003 04:57 PM

Blakestah... thanks! Looking at the swell down here it must have been macking up there.

-d

Posted by: dano at October 18, 2003 06:26 PM

The Lane WAS rocking on Saturday. I added some photos to http://www.surfhumor.com/Photos%203.htm
(No big marketing move here, the site is a hobby.)

Posted by: Bruce at October 19, 2003 07:14 PM

dang, bruce!!! nice shots, bro! thanks a lot for sharing. ps- north county SC was double overhead + and firing in the morning and then windy but still fun in the afternoon. hope everybody got some today!

Posted by: bobby at October 19, 2003 09:44 PM

Sounds like some fun was had this weekend. Sunday morning had a sick look. A tide switch and no wind yielded 12-15' faces, maybe some bigger and smooth as glass. Spent 3 hours on BigMac™ going for the outside sets. This felt like the real deal. NICE.
Hope you all found some.

Posted by: kdalle at October 20, 2003 08:31 AM

thanx for the ear recs everybody, still clogged..hope fully today i will be able to take care of it....awesome weekend of waves (not that homie plays that) kind of beating myself up for not trying sloat on saturday..awesome spectical at ob...props to all you guys charging that action, especially this one boogie boarder i saw out by himself yesterday morning at vf's..saw 4 guys attempt to paddle none sucessfull, big and ugly...wish i would have remembered to watch the air show....

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