E's Surf Report

Last month I predicted Sat Oct 4th to be 6 feet and glassy. I stand by that call. Nice weather for a beach party. Keep the calendar open ya'll.

OB: onshores whippin' strong, spells of flat hacked chop, with occasional waist -shoulder crumblers mushing through. I saw two seals about 4 feet apart at the ....top of a small swell. One seal performed a spectacular full body breach, simultaneously the other....started paddling, stood up, and rode the waist high crumbler. So I guess there's two surfers out there!

Early report...I'm off for more voodoo magic at the PT's! Cheers...

OK, six foot it is. Saturday was a mixed bag at S---t. Walked south to the gun enplacement bar; it wasn't much better. There were some waves to be had though, enough to keep me out from 10:30 until 2 (maybe just to procrastinate working on Sat.?).

As a card-carrying goofy foot, I am deadly curious about the Mexico pic- wanna dish about the locale?

J.

does anyone know anything about the folks chumming and cage diving for the whiteys at the Farallons? I don't think many people do and with so many recent shark sightings, it makes me a little more nervous. There was a 12' spotted off Stinson last week by a fisherman.

I remember when they were doing this off of north Santa Cruz and the locals had a fit and I think they had to stop.

best,
cloude

There was a program on tv last year or so about "scientists" doing shark research at the Farallons. What they were mostly doing was taking advantage of special permits to do photography. In some cases, the "scientists" were actually putting the sharks at risk to get just the right picture. I say "scientists" because some of them did not qualify for the title. They were journalists. It's probably still going on.

Out Friday arvo: crap. Out Saturday at Slizz: crap. Best thing about the sesh was we had a group of about 10-12 friendlys roll thru the lineup. Its always pretty sweet sharing the lineup with some of our pointed nose friends.

Seemed like I was paddling in mud both days. I am not in bad shape either. Paddle-ability was really low. Not sure the effect there but could have been tide vs. swell angle vs. sand bar vs. wind vs. overall mood. Whatever. Where did fall go?

On the Oct. 4th post surf BBQ herb-a-thon, I am going to miss yet again. Gotta roll up to the land of never ending "cannabis". Sucks...

pretty weak weekend for this cat as well. managed to slink into a couple sorta-satisfying rights at S---- on Saturday...but it took a couple of hours to do so! the best part -- by far -- was the friendlies referenced by Kaiser. i wasn't blessed with a pod of a dozen, but three of 'em chose the same peak (if you can call it that) as i and hung out for 20 minutes or even more. at one point, two of 'em were a mere 12 or so feet from me. too frickin' kind! i especially enjoyed watching how they pulled uber-smoodge moves on the waves that i had no chance of actually catching. ahh....the ultimate locals.

Dennis, I think you are underestimating this Saturday for face size, and overestimating for glassi-ness.

The good news is that real swells will begin Thursday. Friday will be a little smaller, Saturday is forecast a little bigger - buoy 6-7 ft 12-13 sec. The bad news is that high pressure over land is not in the forecast, so think sloppy!

I think I will even be able to attend, this time!

propah' bottom turn

into a fly-ass cutty

into another bottom turn

then setup for the barrel

See if you can use your influence with the wave gods Blakestah! Look forward to seeing you on Sat.

That was an optomistic forcast for sure. But, I'd settle for just about anything that breaks outside. Still got sand in my ears from Saturday. I should start dusting off my big board. Hope I can still find it. It's in the garage somewhere...

feel the barrel..

flew standby yesterday to get back early from my weekend in st louis. crushed when i saw that there had been onshores at ob all day, but i headed south a bit, and found it was sunny and almost glassy at the northern san mateo breaks. caught a bunch of waves with a handfull of others, but things were not quite working - lined-up and dumping way on the inside, sand churning, rips bumping-up the walls. big tide swing to neg low probably to blame.

tides at ob looking sub-optimal for the next week, especially for 9-5 types, but with those shallow bars maybe that's for the best?

i am going to the east coast (NH/NY/NJ) from 10/8-10/21 for work and another wedding, still in denial about it, planning to surf most days before i leave. looks like i will at least get a taste of fall swell, just need to get the near-shore wind gods to get in sync. please.

and perhaps one more atlantic hurricane too?

not sure if this is relevant to the shark attraction thread above, but pretty interesting reading ...

Surfboards As Shark Bait
A Scientific Look at an Emotionally Charged Issue
http://www.surfpulse.com/shark4.shtml

Welp, Thule denied my claim that my board would still be in my possession if the new straps I had purchased from them hadn't broken. They got me on a technicality...along with a letter that's a little condescending...(would have posted it to my site but I'm having issues w/ my hosting)

The technicality:
"...you will note that we require all long loads such as, but not limited to, sailboards, surfboards, kayaks......must be tied down front and rear to the bumpers or tow hooks of the vehicle"

Welp, I'll be going to REI shortly to return all Thule products I own, as are a bunch of my friends, buying Yakima and sending my good buddy Michael Kaufman the receipt. I'm sure I sound like a whiny b_tch, but it just gets me that the straps were not even 72 hours old and broke!!! Were they a few years old I'd accept full responsibility and write it off as I should have bought new ones.

Question to the crew: does ANYBODY tie their surfboard off on the front and rear to their bumpers/tow hooks?? I've never heard/seen anything like this in all my years.

sheeeit..ive never tied anything to my bumper..especially my surfboard, thats some bullshit...heres some reasuring information about sharks...

http://www.rense.com/ufo4/yuck.htm

i wonder if the heavy amount of seals lately brings our chances of being eaten up or down...

actually had fun saturday around noon at pa che ko

shout-out to momklein with the entry!
sweet.
So- Juan esta aqui en Nuevo Jersey, coupled with 10-15 offshore winds, results= substitute teacher for mr. kuster today. still solid groundswell today, but fading fast.
Bagel- I wondered the same, with the "likelihood" if there were tons of seals around...it bugged me out a little while in mendo and our mammalian brothers were swimming all around me. It may be better left unsolved.
Toby- dude! Lyman street rocks! when the sand is right it is still can get as epic as you probably remember it... this 'cane season has brought out the best in many monmouth/ocean county breaks.

Swells are a comin'! Yeah! Now, can someone fix the weather?

-d

Hiya, I've been reading your message board for the last week or so and it's good to read other people's surf stories. It's a cool site and I'm really enjoying it. Shame I live in the UK as it seems you get kick ass waves over there.

Anyway I was wondering if you would tell how you know how long it takes for a swell to hit the shore?

Thanks for your help, catch ya soon.

Oli

bagel, now that is a GREAT pic! is that Jesus catching one in?

he he, i think hes riding some seals...

http://www.tim-mckenna.com/

some good shots on here

oli, check here for a list of links to swell forecasting info & related subjects.

Also the Exploratorium has an ok set of intro articles.

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