pleasurable.. up from yesterday
Lerm, Kaiser and i hit it as the sun rose over the city.
Bigger than yesterday morning.. Largest set waves a bit over head-high.
A little junky out there even with the absence of wind.
We found an enjoyable sand-bar where mostly rights (and a few lefts) jacked up and peeled along for a spell... but then mushed out toward the inside.
After surviving 10 days of double-overhead macking monstrosities on the isle of Bali Kaiser continually chuckled and giggled at the comparatively spineless/gutless miniature windswell dribblers that rolled in today. Sometimes windswell will interact with shallow sandbars at OB to produce racy/roping/intense rides (ala last weekend).. but other-times (like most of the waves this morning) the windswell just doesn't provide the juice.. With that said i did manage two total smile-inducing walled-up rights where i slithered down the drop and then fucking pumped and jammed and pumped like a screaming banshee out-a hell down the line.. racing the sections and riding high off the top in an effort to stay ahead of the breaking wave. super-dogg fun!! All three of us ended up finding little pockets of meat so the session ended up worth-while fo sure..
tom posted this yesterday.. hope this kid recovers... i wonder who it was.. a lot of the guys in sanfranpsycho are totally chill dudes.. great surfers who are also mellow cats.. but a handful of the guys in the vid are outlandishly pricky. I've been threatened and harrassed by a few of them and Lerm and i have had horrendously negative encounters with a few of them in the water. One guy is always looking for a fight.. paddling and sitting right next to you.. etc..
ANYWAY!! regardless of who this guy is... let's hope he recovers quickly!!!
From Tom:
hey....one of the san fran psycho kids broke his neck this morning at kelly's cove.
so be careful all especially on the inside and root for him to make it back as quick as possible.
A little treat from Isabel in North Carolina....
Posted by: bigmig at September 18, 2003 10:50 AMimg src="http://member.compuserve.com/fotosrch/3/20030917NCDM118.jpg">
that sucks for that guy. hope he's alright. i fractured my foot a couple of years ago out at kelly's. it woulda been my neck if i were turned the other way.
leaving for kauai next tuesday. any swell coming? blakestah? anyone?
Posted by: lerm at September 18, 2003 10:51 AMbigmig's photo
Posted by: e at September 18, 2003 10:54 AMoh yeah. the sanfranpsycho guys. i remember one time out at a well known left pt break when one of them told e that he'd run him over next time he got in his way. thankfully, the main instigator has been banned from surfing the bay area for a while.
Posted by: lerm at September 18, 2003 10:55 AMword.. actually.. i was inside of the guy (i wiped-out on the wave before).. he was coming at me, already up and riding.. .. i paddled deeper, into the white-water so as to give him an open face.. he went by me.. probably about 5 feet away... kinda close but not really that close.. plus he had the open face.. still i felt a little bad because my presence may have slighly affected his ride.. he paddled back out right by me 2 minutes later.. i turned and said, "sorry if i got a little in your way".. i could tell he was pissed and he stared me down for a second and then yelled, "if you ever fucking get in my way i'm going to run your face over with my fins you kook!"
soo.. that's what happened.. he's one of the dudes in san franpsycho.
Posted by: e at September 18, 2003 11:11 AMthe stocky, baldheaded, goateed, buffed, tattooed, hairy-backed guy at that left handed point is the absolute biggest asshole i've ever encountered surfing.
Posted by: bbr at September 18, 2003 11:15 AMbroken neck eh? I thought I was the only one who had that claim to fame while surfing.
I did it in Chincoteague, VA when I was a kid chasing down hurricane swells...I bet it's been going off there for the last week or soo...it's a sand islet just like Hatteras...
I fully recovered (it's been 15 years)...hope he does too.
All I gotta say is OUCH!
PS- Anywhere the waves are decent- assholes abound...that's just how it is. (Hawaii, SoCal, Oz...even Jersey)
Posted by: Gary at September 18, 2003 11:30 AMKarma gonna get you! Physco Kooks!
Posted by: pixel pete at September 18, 2003 11:45 AMoh man...a little thursday humor...eminem as a kid?
http://www.angrynakedpat.com/andymilonakis.com/crispy.wmv
Posted by: j at September 18, 2003 11:51 AMthis guy "Mongo" wrote something cool on the surfermag discussion forum.. Slightly bizarre.. but.. check it..
serfing is cool clear river in wilderness
Mongo see it in everyone's eyes.
People want it now. Want to get where theyre going now.
Everyone know seek fullfillment in journey best, not destination.
Serf is jurney. Serfboard not efficient transportation. Efficient transportation get from point A to B fast as posible. Mongo no want race from Indicator to inside cove fast possible, only few time do that. Mongo want stay in power of wave. Even if wave not long. Stay where crucial. Intimate. Love. Serfing is jurney itself. Oasis in middle of wilderness called life. Long for journey to last. No rush destination. It come at own time.
At end is promised land. Lost coast with more reef point beach setups than could dream. Coast wrap in circle, wind wrap in circle, wave wrap circle. Limitless and free. Fellow wanderers who's dreams are beyond this desperate lands' comprehension this coast shall find. They will be there.
Mongo see it in everyone's eyes. From depths of brother Nep's desperate longing for truth to dumb teenybopper girl trying (and soon fail) find happiness in meaningless sex. Groovn try best escape job. GWSharkman try escape bodyhurt from live fast, some friends die young. Young Tweak always wonder why some girls not love back as much as you love them, wants truth. Kalni work hard for family surf cold water. TFAD love surfboards. Friends. Seek gloss/polish and January offshore Swammyland. Parents taught well. Drifto wander free as can. Dream of lost love as we all do.
Slow down, enjoy serf. Clear mind. Breathe deep. Wait for set. Smile. Nurture what good/simple. Kill what bad. Patience. Someday we find lost coast. Surf till arms dead. Warm by fire. Tell stories drink beer laugh eat steak. Kill lust/anxiety. Swell will come.
We all seek barrel. Vulnerable to what wave want. Seek spit. No jump off board. Trust.
Ride till foam consume us. Sooner or later feel spit find big blue shoulder. Big cuttie, go back do again.
Posted by: e at September 18, 2003 12:21 PMMarty is the guy....in a halo currently and out of the water for a year. Scary stuff.....
Posted by: del at September 18, 2003 12:30 PMme likes mongo thinking more than me likes stocky baldhead thinking.
i met a stocky baldhead at ob last friday. he was up on this solid right and i was paddling back out, getting ready to take one on the head so as to not mess with his ride. just in front of me, he throws in a cutback and then shoots right on past, down the line. i'm thinking: nice!! but then he cuts back again and barrels down STRAIGHT towards me...just long enough to let me wonder if he's actually planning to run me over. seriously...2000 for flinching! i was doing everything i could to give him room, and then he rips over just looking for contact. this causes me great confusion!!!
this mongro cat seems to have it figured though...
Posted by: friendly at September 18, 2003 12:43 PMMan, those smaller, but POUNDING, shorebreak days at Ocean Beach freak me out WAAAY more than when it's breaking BIG on the outer bars. I ended up in the ER with a neck brace and my head strapped to a gurney after a shallow encounter at Sloat Street a couple of years ago. No fracture, but it was a close call - mere millimeters from quadrapaligia.
Posted by: Jimmie M. at September 18, 2003 01:16 PMI have been dealing with assholes in the water ALL OF MY LIFE - THEY SUCK! The worst are the good surfers, NOT interested in being left alone to ride waves, but who are actually doing everything they can to LOOK for a scrap. I will leave the break when one of these guys starts doing his shtick. I know, I know, it feels shitty, like I'm punkin'-out; but that's a school yard I graduated from a looonnggg time ago. I surf for FUN, period!
from sfgate
Posted by: e at September 18, 2003 01:35 PMMongo's cool though I might disagree with him/her on the meaningless sex part.
Lunchtime report:
Little barrels to be had, though all this talk of broken necks scares me -- and I am including the kid in Step Into Liquid. I am pretty sure all these folks are like 100x better than me in the barrel, so... scary! Poor kid geez, my heart goes out, and I wonder how the hell he (in the movie) kept it so positive?
Anyway, tons of peeps on the beach, girls smiling, whistling, and saying "my friend likes you!" as you walk by, which is always nice to hear, even if you are happily married. Lots of hot surfers at Kelly's -- the first wave I saw from the seawall, someone pulls in front side, completely stuffed, then pops out and launches a big air off the shoulder. I ended up jogging down to the middle where there were still some empty peaks and coincidentally another young lady sunbathing topless (in a meaningless sort of way) near E's new haunt at K'ham. I haven't looked at the charts. I wonder what's on store for tomorrow.
So... east coast? I hear from my folks in Charleston that the surf crowd has been going crazy for almost a week.
Posted by: robme at September 18, 2003 01:48 PMhmmm.. thanks for the report Robme.. nice on the ladies givin' you da vibe... aww yeah..
looks like a possible post-work surf mission.. hmmm...
e
Posted by: e at September 18, 2003 02:15 PMyeah mongo...what a poem / rant / whatever...made all the sweeter by the erratic english...
"no jump off board...trust." words of advice and / or an explanation of the shoulder dislocation? (i was bailing/leashrelying on a closeout)...anyways a year in a halo makes me feel fortunate to be out for just a few weeks with a (i think quickly) healing shoulder...even with this sweet september weather...wishing the best to the sanfranpsycho...
amon tobin tonight at bimbo's! dense & psychedelic jungly electronica...
Posted by: paul b at September 18, 2003 02:50 PMOBEEE! yeah weird time for a report, but goofy schedule... Anyhoo, it's flattened from this am... one person paddling around...however it's still warm and calm, little nuggets are bound to come in. Whoop - yea, there goes a waist high super-crumbler...
Speaking of injuries today, I'm Bummed and dry docked because of one. Good news is I manipulated a referral from my regular doc to an excellent, surfing PT. He already gave me paddling tips, and besides recovery, he said he'll show me the best ways to build surfy strenghth for my body type - ( skinny figure-skaterish genre that finds paddling 'round here wicked ) Anyhoo, my insurance will now pay for this useful info. Ha HAAAA! Injured but stoked! I will be made stronger...better...uhmm...
Happy Surfing,
Posted by: s.s sharkbait at September 18, 2003 03:59 PMit's freaking gorgeous at the beach right now. sparkling. i just checked fulton but not sloat...definitely some fun little rides to be had...and you can't beat the day. valhalla! (way to work the sys, s.s.!)
Posted by: friendly at September 18, 2003 04:10 PMjust got out of the water. some fun shoulders but definitely should have brought the longboard.
it's gorgeous at the beach...
Posted by: caveman at September 18, 2003 04:45 PMWicked inside beach break. I pulled into a closeout barrel last year at Kelly's and got knocked on my ass... literally. It felt like being dropped from 7 feet flat on the pavement butt first. I bruised my tailbone and had a difficult time sitting for a few days-that really was my picture in yesterday's post.
I agree with Jimmie. I'll take big outsiders over small insiders anyday. I kinda don't like dea***ns for the same reason. Maybe I'm just getting too old for the pounding. Old guys just want to have fun. Hey, maybe I got a song there...
Posted by: Dennis at September 18, 2003 06:46 PMyay!!!
Posted by: bagel at September 19, 2003 11:54 AMAnyone been out this afternoon? Looks small eh? A bit more wind as well.
Posted by: Kaiser at September 19, 2003 02:42 PMkaiser..welcome back! sounds like you got waves..
Posted by: bagel at September 19, 2003 03:11 PMhad to grab something from home at lunch and saw very small pretty appetizing little peaks...ill bet the middle of the beach might be fun at low tide...to bad i cant surf after work..
Thanks man! Got waves... Yeah, you could say that. More swell then I most could handle.
Thanks for the heads up out there. Hoping the winds stay off it for the next few hours or at least die off soon.
Posted by: Kaiser at September 19, 2003 03:14 PMMm chocolate coated VIOXX it's OB Friday afternoon: Same version as yesterday, a bit more crumbly and textured - phone lines are just barely jiggling, breeze is up - and incoming tide is mooshing it out...but there's some noogats I think, maybe shoulder high. Peeps in and out all day,just dodge a few heads...
If I'm lucky it's swimming pool weekend...unless someone's got a longboard they can traction me to, give it a good push...! Happy surfing folks!
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at September 19, 2003 04:18 PMHey Where's E?
Posted by: pixel pete at September 19, 2003 06:30 PMpossibly, maybe, some of you would be interested in checking out http://www.rebel8.com/
all the info is on the site.
Posted by: josh at September 20, 2003 04:52 PMIt may be bad manners to talk with your mouth full, but it isn't too
Posted by: at November 27, 2004 09:09 PMgood either if you speak when your head is empty.
Dating http://www.online-dating-com.com
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