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a jolly good time..

beach again.. crowds descending like locusts on one of the tastier sandbars. I paddled out at around 6:20.. there were about 2 others out.. A few semi-distinct peaks A-framing and breaking steep and purdy.. mellow vibes at first.. soon there were about 30 surfers within 10 feet of each other. I paddled away.. far away.. The peak probably was incrementally superior to some of the other utterly unpopulated peaks along the beach but i would think that for most people that slight incremental superiority would be outweighed by the 30 other surfers vying for the same waves.. but.. no worries.. the vibes were pretty mellow and it's easy to extricate yourself from a tight pack at OB by simply paddling away.. Soo.. i ended up at the next peak down and calmed my psyche with some ledging, racy rights and a few speed-bursty lefts. To be honest, the waves offered some resickulously high-performance corners and sections.. but also tons of closeouts.. Semi-glassified A-frames buckled and then languidly melded to the tapering contour of the bottom topography. My best waves were the kind where you stroke and micro-position to set yourself at the corner of an unbroken, walling wave.. then glide on your belly for split-second until the wave begins to pitch and let you in.. then the rest of the ride is established by your success at massaging and balancing the take off so that you immediately burst down the line with speed and don't get caught back on your heels or off-balance.. if you're slow or slightly off-balance on the takeoff, you wouldn't make most of the sections this morning.. but if you power and project down the line as you're taking off.. a phatty, sculpted liquid race-track sets up for you. I managed a few nice snaps and performed one of my first legitimate, high-speed floaters!! I'm really not trying to brag.. but on this one wave i pumped and put the hammer down.. gaining more and more speed as the wave walled and peeled.. then i literally pumped/jumped up high as the wave began to close.. rode on the top of the mini-barrelling closeout.. then kind-of lept off the top of the wave back into the white-water and rode it out.. needless to say i was happy!! I've pulled probably 30 or 40 racy floaters without jumping back toward the front of the wave to complete the maneuver.. Usually cursing myself for wimping out and just sinking off the back of the wave.. but.. this time i had a bucketload of speed and with the speed, to be honest, it was pretty easy..

anyway.. enough rambling.. to keep it real i also kooked out on a few good ones out there.. taking off a bit late and "stink-bugging" and missing the section..

a couple of the "sanfran-psycho" guys were out there killin' it.. humbling everybody..


oh yeah.. there were energizing, soothing rain squalls, lightning bolts and thunder this morning out in the water.. soo cool!
so cal last week (photo by smslavin)

on a conference call with a client...not listening at all....thank God/buddha/allah/whomever your higher power is for e's site!

e - congrats on the floater!!

Posted by: j at September 3, 2003 10:52 AM

bummer... i tried to get up this morning, cuz i knew it was going to be good. those late night jam sessions will get ya everytime. especially when your drummer gets stuck on the bay bridge for 3 hours. oh well, maybe arvo.

Posted by: lerm at September 3, 2003 10:53 AM

a little hump day humor


Posted by: j at September 3, 2003 11:01 AM

Just talked to the Thule claims guy. They are sending me forms to fill out for my board and bag. Not sure if they're going to cover it yet, he seemed to have a hard time believing that someone took the board after it fell off...fingers crossed though!

Posted by: j at September 3, 2003 11:16 AM

Noticed the same thing at 'The OB' this morning... Massive crowds on one peak and nearly deserted, slightly worse peaks nearby. Caught some nice rides and suffered some horribly kookish wipeouts. Fun sesh. I love September...

Posted by: mwsf at September 3, 2003 11:28 AM

let me echo j's voice....soooo good to read the daily stoke while confined at work! great to hear that folks are gettin' some! today my stoke will come from some single-track mtn biking with buds, but manana....

j...sorry to hear about the board. hope that Thule comes through for you. though it's likely little consolation, anyone riding a stolen board is bound to get theirs. karma will provide pay-back.

Posted by: ck at September 3, 2003 11:48 AM


if you paid for your surfboard by credit card, sometimes the cc company will cover loss or damage to the board.

also, maybe car insurance or homeowners/renters insurance? worth a call probably.

Posted by: shak at September 3, 2003 11:54 AM

that thunder woke me up this morning!..wish i woulda been in the water..im all for this tropical shit..

Posted by: bagel at September 3, 2003 11:59 AM

no surf for me this morning, but i have to relate this: Yesterday afternoon my sister called me with a pair of incredible seats to the Giants v Rockies game. It was very last minute but the seats were 6 rows up from the Rockies dugout about 2/3rd down the first base line, so I had to go. I figured (on a lark) that I would take my glove since we were in pretty good foul territory. Good game, lots of foul balls, but none came our way until the bottom of the 7th when Marquis Grissom steps up. We had just gotten a big bag of peanuts and some beers and were just chillin and enjoying the game. So I'm sitting there with this bag of peanuts on my lap, glove off, grinding away when Grissom pops one up. My sister starts saying something like: "here it comes, here it comes", but she's been saying this all friggin game whenever anyone hits a foul, so I don't think much of it. Finally, I look up, and goddamn if that ball isn't coming our way. In one motion I put the glove on, stand up sending peanuts flying, and pretty much just watch the ball into my glove and make a clean catch just like it was a routine play. My sister had ducked by this point and turns to me and says: "DID YOU GET IT?". So I open my glove and show her, and we all go nuts. Very surreal. First time that has ever happened to me. Anyway, if you were watching the game last night around 9:00, you might have seen me catch that thang. fun stuff.

go surf.

Posted by: jdz at September 3, 2003 12:05 PM

ya jdz!! that would be so great

Posted by: bagel at September 3, 2003 12:41 PM

WOW I don't know which is cooler, e's floater
[ my dream manuever! ] or jdz's super fly catch!

And good to see ya back Stan. Hopefully in the water sometime...in my case prolly on the worse peaks maybe near mwsf, I'll be practicing my uh wicked nose first aerials yeah that's it.

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at September 3, 2003 12:58 PM

nice one, jdz! baseball bores me to pieces, but i liked your story. those peanuts must've been flying in slo-mo...

i'm buying beers tonight at Mad Dog. the first round, anyway. a few niceness peeps are meeting to talk about this OBtoberfest BBQ idea. it should be good fun so come on over if you like.

8:00pm tonight. Mad Dog in the Fog, lower Haight. I'll be there, Dennis will be there, some other amigos will be there.

Posted by: friendly at September 3, 2003 01:04 PM

east coast right now!!!
pull in east coasters!! pull into those biatches!!

Posted by: e at September 3, 2003 01:20 PM

Hey niceness crew- This last week proved to be full of surf and travel. Got an opp to go down to Cabo last weekend. Due to hurricane Ignacio I managed to catch an amazing zippers session, it was headhigh and breaking lefts and rights. Got my first barrell!! I was the first one out that morning then about 1.5 hrs into my session another SF charger paddled out. Meet 2 other guys from SF that weekend plus 3 guys from Santa Cruz. A couple of them drove non-stop all the way down, a 29hr drive. Also caught great waves on the Pac side (el pescadero and los cerritos-near todos santos). Due to the hurricane I got "stuck" there for another day. Luckily the surf was still around. During Labor day weekend, I caught a decent session at Wilson's creek (20 miles from the oregon border). Super stoked on surfing the bottom and top of Cali in one week. Surf wasen't the best up there, but the hidden swimming holes and redwood groves made up for the lack of waves. Definately worth a road trip if you get a chance. Hope you all manage to enjoy this south swell.

Posted by: Tweinstein at September 3, 2003 02:16 PM


I'm going to be in Cabo over the holidays. . can you share some knowledge on good breaks? I'm going to be staying right near Zippers. . .

Posted by: be at September 3, 2003 02:24 PM

Hey be,

If you don't get a response here on the post, but you do find out something, let me know what you find out if you don't mind. We're going to visit my Mom who is living in San Jose` del Cabo, in January, just a few hundred yard from Zippers. I know January isn't the best time for waves on the southern tip of Baja, but there must be some good waves somewhere down there in the middle of the Winter.

Detroit, MI

Posted by: DM at September 3, 2003 02:42 PM

be- Here is a link to the costa azul surf shop and local breaks. http://www.costa-azul.com.mx For some reason they are not showing up on my screen at the moment. In addition, check out http://www.wannasurf.com You can get a free surf map at the costa azul surf shop and rent boards for 20$ a day (15 for 3 or more days). I brought my own but debated it for a couple of days prior to going.

Zippers is really rocky so bring some booties. I didn't wear them the first 2 times I went out and got pretty cut up.

There wern't many local surfers out. I heard a few stories of them getting hurt on the rocks. Also, I didn't experince any bad vibes in the water. Talked to most everyone and received good vibes in return.

La roca, which is on the east side of the lookout point is also rocky. I also surfed the west side of it in the AM and got some overhead waves.

Shipwrecks is futher east but is kinda fickle. The famous ship that was there has been washed away. I never checked it out due to the rumored washed out roads.

Los Cerritos and El Pescadero are at KM 64/65 and 59 respeceively along the road to Todos Santos (hwy 19??. Los cerritos is a beach break with lots of camping. El Pescadero is a point break and also has lots of camping (but for a fee).

If I were to go back, Id just camp out. You can score all the goodies you want in San Lucas.

Rental cars are pretty expensive, as is gas. We rented a suburban (to fit my friends golf clubs and my board) and were quoted 70$. We got a bill for 125 per day. O well- the company was paying for it. Just be prepared to shell out an extra 50% at collection time.

To fill up the subburban it costed 70$. You can use dollars or pesos everywhere. If you change your money, do it at the airport in los cabos. Much better exchange rate than in the US or on the street- no commission charge.

The waves get way overhead in the winter at the Pac breaks (cerritos and pescadero).

I will definately be back there again. Next time I will camp out (and maybe drive there too).

Posted by: Trautweinstein at September 3, 2003 02:54 PM

I was in Cabo around the holidays last year. dm's right about the surf not being so hot in the wintertime. The Sea of Cortez (east) side of the peninsula is usually pretty flat around then. I did manage to get a couple of really fun days at a few Bolinas-type breaks there though. Old Man's and Zippers were probably working the best in the early mornings. There was another place further up the coast on the east side called Two Palms, or Twin Palms or something like that-- it was supposed to be the best break on the Sea of Cortez, but it just wasn't working that day.
There's a surf shop called Costa Azul right across the street from Zippers. They are extremely friendly and knowledgeable. You can rent pretty legitimate boards in all sizes and shapes (no foam or epoxy) for not that much money. You have to watch out not to ding them up on the rocks-- there's landmines all over when the tide starts to drop. Luckily, ding repair is also absurdly cheap ;)
If you're willing to travel to the Pacific side, there's incredible surf over there around Todos Santos -- about an hour and a half from where you'll be. That's where all of the surf camps are and random breaks only named by their mile markers (or kilo markers). One of the numbered breaks was just firing when we got there one morning and was some of the most ridiculous surf I've been in.
Either way, the trip is definitely worth it. Enjoy.

(sorry for the long post)


Posted by: nate at September 3, 2003 02:57 PM

if i remember correctly you're a fellow sponge? maybe i'm tripping. anyway take a water taxi to lover's beach right in cabo proper for some sick shorebreak wedges like this:

Posted by: bbr at September 3, 2003 03:34 PM

as long as we're on the travel tip:

i'm headed to bilbao / mundaka / san sebastian / biarritz for a couple weeks in october. partly an art / architecture / family trip but i'm also hoping to get some surfing in.

anyone been to this neck o' the woods?
good time of year to go? water temps chilly?
other tips?

thanks, pb

Posted by: paul b at September 3, 2003 03:54 PM

Nate, Trautweinstein, DM, et. al -

Thanks so much for the informative responses. It's good to hear that the vibes at Zipper's aren't bad since I've heard rumors that it's full of hotheads. I'm really looking forward to the trip, regardless of decent swell. Have car will travel. Again, thanks to the niceness-heads for helping me out. Love this place.

bbr- I went Benedict Arnold and am now surfing stand-up. Loving it and starting to get the hang - talk about a slow learning curve. Once the bigger swells start rolling in I'm sure I'll get back on the Manta once in awhile. Eagerly awaiting the words and pictures section on your South American sojourn. That video is sweet - great editing and footage. Who had the waterproof video camera?

e- Is the GreenLantern still up for dibs?


Posted by: be at September 3, 2003 05:04 PM

paul b -

I haven't surfed in Donostia (San Sebastian) but I do know that it's among one of my favorite places in the world. You're going to love it there. Enjoy.

Let me know if you need any non-surf info about the place.


Posted by: be at September 3, 2003 05:08 PM

be.. i spent a week in cabo a few years back with my parents and some of their friends. I didn't score any solid swells but enjoyed some minor south pulses that created some waves at Zippers, old mans and the rock.. also Monuments is probably the best wave at the end of the peninsula.. i hope nobody gets pissed that i mentioned it. it's a hollow left and the closest wave to cabo san lucas. you follow dirt road out from this big "monumental" H thing.. There is another really cool right reef/point between monuments and zippers that i surfed a few times.. i can't remember what it's called but the vibes were super mellow and the water was nice. I broke my fin on the rocks there though.. umm.. i rented a little convertable bug for about $45 a day.. I also cruised up the pacific side to todos santos (town.. not the wave) and surfed pescadero. the waves sucked when i checked it, unfortunately.. there is a couple that runs a friendly surf camp called "pescadero surf camp".. they know all the local breaks and such and are really friendly.. i recommend dropping by if you're driving that way and don't know where to check.. I got lost looking for wave along dirt/sand roads on the pacific coast down there.. it can be biatchy.. Umm.. if you're a single dude you're also pretty psyched to go to Cabo.. the development and commercialization of the area is atrocious and heinously ugly.. but there are loads of spring-break types looking to party and have fun. I met this crew of UCSB ladies while down there.. nice.

green lantern i'm still wavering about.. sorry about that homie!!! i still haven't received my new board so ol' greeny is still my backup.. i'll let you know if i change my mind.. have fun!!

paul b.. you're psyched.. october is the best time to go to that area.. best chance of swell and diminished post-holiday crowds.. i repeat.. you are very psyched!

Posted by: e at September 3, 2003 05:21 PM

East Coast?

Posted by: dano at September 3, 2003 05:25 PM

i traveled around europe for a few months like 5 years back and was in northern spain around October, it was the end of my trip and i remember sitting under this concrete overhang on the beach at san sebastian smoking hash with this street mime guy and watching super fun looking peaks come in, rainy and kinda stormy but really fun looking, offshore, grinding. around 3 guys were on it not getting the best waves but i was dying, that was a good memory..also took the train back up the coast back to paris and saw the hottest french girl waving goodbye to her mom who was in the room next to me, as we were leaving a station around the beaches in france there.. another good memory....1 more, my friend used to spend summer with his family in france at the beaches around those areas and i have seen some really good pictures this guy told me some of the beachbreaks in france anre alot like ob...oy!

Posted by: bagel at September 3, 2003 05:39 PM

I wanna surf in Europe someday! Don't forget the awesome food and wine in France and Spain. Beer ain't bad either. Oh, and if you are into cycling, it's just the best over there... sort-of like Hawaii is for surfing.


Posted by: dano at September 3, 2003 06:01 PM

whats up heads- Fabian is all about our swell
window over the next 4-5 days. The amount of scoring achieved will be off the charts. Actually a pretty good sized wind swell working right now, but many brahs just chillin at the beaching and just watching...and waiting.
enjoy the ob september sessions

Posted by: kus at September 3, 2003 06:02 PM

I have the World and North America versions of the Stormrider guides, and they rock. I'd for surezy get the European guide if I was headed over there.
The Stormrider Guide Europe


Posted by: dano at September 3, 2003 06:09 PM

paul b -- You might also find this to be useful:


Posted by: mwsf at September 3, 2003 07:00 PM

Wow, cool travel theme today. Thanks for all the information from all who posted about Baja. After being stuck in Michigan for all these years you can only imagine how much I'm looking forward to going down there. Even if I my Mom doesn't have a car for me to use and I have to scrap for waist high waves at Zippers, I'll be super stoked. I can wait to taste salt water, ahhh...

bbr: sick pictures!

Detroit, MI

Posted by: DM at September 3, 2003 08:14 PM

she was waving to her mom...little did she at the time know her daddy was in the hotel room next to her!! heh heh heh.

foreign girls rule.

Posted by: j at September 3, 2003 08:18 PM

Just wanted to comment (or should i say vent) on the crowds this morning. I was in the water at 9am (probably much later than most of you). As mentioned earlier in the post by a few others, there were a ton of heads on one particular peak (33 at one point to be exact). It wasn't that bad of a vibe EXCEPT for a certain individual who was making comments to everyone in the lineup that he did not recognize, basically telling them to surf somewhere else down the beach. If that wasn't annoying enough, he was blatently dropping in on people left and right, and then encouraging his bros to do the same. I saw so,so many people get burned it was ridiculous. After 45 minutes, this guy got out of the water and the vibe in the lineup made a change for the positve immediately. I ended up dealing with the crowds and sticking it out and got a bunch super fun waves with a hint of that OB fall juice. It's blows my mind though that a person can expend so much negative energy and create such a funky vibe. What to do, what to
do . . . Fall is almost here. Allthough I don't know any of you, the niceness crew sounds like a pretty cool group of people. Keep the positive energy out there.

Posted by: JW at September 3, 2003 09:34 PM

dudes, check the bouys, it looks like the SF bouy took a jump (South, due South, think we'll catch it? I bet SC is going off.) And then over the weekend or maybe Friday a little northwesterly, which I think together with the south could mean A frames up and down the beach. check it! (la jolla and pwizardry)

bagel -- ah, france...

Posted by: robme at September 3, 2003 11:49 PM

daaaaamn... SF reading South: 3.4' @ 14sec, 185 It BETTER hold up till tomorrow morning!

Posted by: Ian at September 3, 2003 11:54 PM

Dudes, the incoming NW is hours away - should start hitting around 11 or 12 PM. The south has also picked up, and both will have 14 second period energy. Crossed up swells...each 3-4 foot - should be decent smaller (up to head high) surf just about everywhere.

Anyway, a bro is riding the Flying Chimp board. He is a good surfer, slightly better than I am, not nearly as talented as Christian. Here is his initial take after riding it last night.

Initial feedback. The board worked, no doubt. Not sure if it's a single fin or thruster though. Definitely more bite than a standard single. Seems loose at times, though more research is needed. Really has unusua acceleration at times. The board is a little small for me, but it was clear enough that it worked. Got sort of tubed on a left. Ciao for now.

BTW, for those who haven't figured it out yet, the UFO is a single fin design in which the fin turns as you make turns. The drag of a cutaway singlefin with more drive than a thruster is the hope. AFAICT, that is what we have, but of course, we need more boards and testing.

John said "I should be done your new board tomorrow, or maybe Friday...Bob at the glassing factory wants to talk to you about the UFO"

Ciao for now.

Posted by: blakestah at September 4, 2003 09:10 AM

I'm looking for a surf camp in san sebastian in spain but it's very hard to find, maby you can help me?!

Posted by: naouli at March 4, 2004 06:45 PM

Does anybody know if you can rent a surfboard around Barcelona or in Bilbao? I know that you can rent in San Sebastian/Donostia.

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