a jolly good time..
beach again.. crowds descending like locusts on one of the tastier sandbars. I paddled out at around 6:20.. there were about 2 others out.. A few semi-distinct peaks A-framing and breaking steep and purdy.. mellow vibes at first.. soon there were about 30 surfers within 10 feet of each other. I paddled away.. far away.. The peak probably was incrementally superior to some of the other utterly unpopulated peaks along the beach but i would think that for most people that slight incremental superiority would be outweighed by the 30 other surfers vying for the same waves.. but.. no worries.. the vibes were pretty mellow and it's easy to extricate yourself from a tight pack at OB by simply paddling away.. Soo.. i ended up at the next peak down and calmed my psyche with some ledging, racy rights and a few speed-bursty lefts. To be honest, the waves offered some resickulously high-performance corners and sections.. but also tons of closeouts.. Semi-glassified A-frames buckled and then languidly melded to the tapering contour of the bottom topography. My best waves were the kind where you stroke and micro-position to set yourself at the corner of an unbroken, walling wave.. then glide on your belly for split-second until the wave begins to pitch and let you in.. then the rest of the ride is established by your success at massaging and balancing the take off so that you immediately burst down the line with speed and don't get caught back on your heels or off-balance.. if you're slow or slightly off-balance on the takeoff, you wouldn't make most of the sections this morning.. but if you power and project down the line as you're taking off.. a phatty, sculpted liquid race-track sets up for you. I managed a few nice snaps and performed one of my first legitimate, high-speed floaters!! I'm really not trying to brag.. but on this one wave i pumped and put the hammer down.. gaining more and more speed as the wave walled and peeled.. then i literally pumped/jumped up high as the wave began to close.. rode on the top of the mini-barrelling closeout.. then kind-of lept off the top of the wave back into the white-water and rode it out.. needless to say i was happy!! I've pulled probably 30 or 40 racy floaters without jumping back toward the front of the wave to complete the maneuver.. Usually cursing myself for wimping out and just sinking off the back of the wave.. but.. this time i had a bucketload of speed and with the speed, to be honest, it was pretty easy..
anyway.. enough rambling.. to keep it real i also kooked out on a few good ones out there.. taking off a bit late and "stink-bugging" and missing the section..
a couple of the "sanfran-psycho" guys were out there killin' it.. humbling everybody..
oh yeah.. there were energizing, soothing rain squalls, lightning bolts and thunder this morning out in the water.. soo cool!
so cal last week (photo by smslavin)