olas, glass, food chain
The swell decreased a bit this morning.. biggest waves maybe head high.. most waves in the waist/shoulder range.. If yesterday surfed better than it looked from shore... today looked better from shore than it surfed. Pulled up to Scrote at 6:20 and witnessed fairly glassy conditions with shoulder-high waves peeling but backing off... but peeling.. Only guy out was Lerm. I started getting pretty excited. Conditions weren't the archetype of oceanic splendor but it looked like there would be some smooth, translucent vectors to careen across. In reality it proved difficult to get in position for the infrequent slices of niceness. Most waves would back off or close.. though there were solid corners and sections if you had your flow-cap on and could work it. i also surfed horribly this morning so my report might be negatively shaded because of that. I wiped hard on this fantastic right.. just boggled the takeoff and free-fell for a while.. then got bonked on my head by my board really hard and saw a flash of light. I thought i might be damaged goods for a second but i was ok. Later in the session i stroked into another peeling right with much potential for maneuvers.. I paddled in and milked the take-off for a boost of speed right off the bat.. (you know when you click your takeoff just right and feel the balance and acceleration.. shit seems to click).. then i pumped off the bottom and fired off a semi-decent turn off-the-top.. but somehow i compressed weirdly after the turn and i ended up being forced down into a violent squat on my board. I'm doing a poor job of explaining it but it felt like i got pushed down really hard onto my board.. my knees bent inward and almost cracked against the top of my board. I'm lucky my knees didn't blow out. Thank you stretching and yoga!!
there was also a TON of sealife in the water.. fish jumping, birds diving, seals and sea-lions, the whole nine-yards.. spooked me..
go get some..
e
went out early again, alone, joined quickly by a few.
It was a little smaller than yesterday, but a LOT cleaner. The UFO seems to really grooves in about the shoulder high range, and today it was on. (I am pretty sure it'll groove in bigger stuff, but with a slightly different config - next generation stuff). Multiple off-the-lips, roundhouse turns, pull-ins, late drops, and all around niceness being served up by Neptune. If yesterday was larger, today was a lot more well-shaped.
And, about 20 peeps came on out, but strangely enough they settled in on peaks a few hundred yards away, and I never had to fight for waves with anyone.
At one point we looked about 100 yards out and saw sea lions frolicking, pelicans dive-dombing, and a whale semi-breach. We are nearing the peak of sea life season now - enjoy it while it lasts, come October it'll be mostly gone.
Here ends my little surf run, got a rough week ahead.
Posted by: blakestah at August 21, 2003 09:52 AMwow. saw machado on tv last night and he couldn't do half the moves you describe.
maybe those guys should ride a ufo?
Posted by: huh? at August 21, 2003 10:03 AMI am pretty sure Machado could make me look bad even if he was riding plywood.
I'm just out having fun on a new invention I made.
As to whether Machado should ride one, well, I dunno, I haven't gotten feedback from anyone close to his skill level (I'd like to get such feedback, though). Some things are clearly better than existing boards, some I am still incertain about, and uncertain about whether the new design can be tweaked to be all around better. For now I am riding it when I can, and pushing the design envelope to see how far it takes me.
I'll prolly have one at Slopfest this Sunday morning if anyone is really interested...
Forecast: it is getting smaller, should be clean and even smaller next two days, then more windswell. This is a common September pattern, a little early this year.
Posted by: blakestah at August 21, 2003 10:27 AMSo that was a whale, eh Blake?
I saw the spouting and and the body looked fairly large, but I could not make it out for sure from where I was. Later I thought I saw dorsal fins so I figured it was just a pod o' Dolph Lundgrens.
I was a bit south of where you were riding, closer to Captain Quint's. I suppose you were closer to the former Head of Panama's Street. Or that of the former head of Nicaragua?
Some fun out there but not as good as Last night when I couldn't hit it due to baby duty. Oh well.
Posted by: Friend #1 at August 21, 2003 10:29 AMyeah. I hear you. I wasn't trying to pit you up against the pro guys. I was more referring to the wave conditions at the event.
i don't know if you saw the footage on tv but as great as surfers like machado are, the waves they showed were really lackluster.
especially for a media hyped and prime time broadcast event.
but then again it may keep the crowds down?
Posted by: huh? at August 21, 2003 10:42 AMI was on my street, more or less.
We couldn't make it out for sure, mostly, until the semi-breach. With half its body above surface it was pretty clear.
We should work out a duty trade-off...
Posted by: blakestah at August 21, 2003 10:44 AMOB: it's honestly looking like Pacifica out there, give a little more whitewater. At one point there were like 30 peeps all smushed in the same block... deja vu! Sun's coming out, it's a gorgeous day, but early am seems to have been the call for bigger waves ( pacifica small now ) and less crowding! Mellowing out now, but gee whiz, what clumping!
Yesterday my house break looked too big for me in my mellow state , so I cruised OB several times. Found a spot up north with a little channel and goofy small stuff breaking on both sides. I was really really 'off' that sesh, but the area was perfect for practicing duckdives and shortboard popups. Paddle out, want to pop backside? Turn right. Frontside? Turn left. Small pack to the north, but my place just me and a seal. And on the best wave that day, a man jumping in the line of fire, wearing nothing but trunks! Normally I suck at reading the ocean, but yesterday's made-to-order pick has me stoked :) Cool feeeling, 'discovering' your own working nugget. Yaaay. Next time I might catch something!
This ramble sponsored by stoke. Cheers...
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at August 21, 2003 11:11 AMYeah, nothing worse then driving around seeing people you know out surfing and just not feeling like it would be worth it. Blakestah's ride here... E over there.... Maybe I will go here.... Hell, how 'bout a nap instead! No neoprene smell on me right now.
SS, your crib sit directly facing the beach? I think you were on dog duty this a.m. no? I was wiping eye boogers away fighting a serious yawn as I got back into my ultra-modern gas guzzler. Think I spotted ya.
I don't know much about revolutionizing surfboard design or the like but I KNOW MY NEW WARD COFFEY IS READY FOR PICKUP!!!! OH YEAH.
Posted by: Kaiser at August 21, 2003 11:24 AMglad to hear that you heads are milking some niceness! my neck is still waaayyy too beat to hit the water and vicarious stoke is gettin' me through. fingers crossed for some direct stoke by the weekend. blakestah, the ufo sounds uber intriguing and i'm diggin' hearing about the evolution. good luck with it.
Posted by: ck at August 21, 2003 11:24 AMbooger, I mean kaiser ;)
yeah, if you saw a bleary eyed blonde chic accidentally dressed to match her dog around 6 something, that was moi. Place does face the beach! Thinking of another niceness brunchie there late sept or 1st week oct, but in any case feel free to say howdy.
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at August 21, 2003 11:40 AMdamn, I miss NoCal! The last surfing I've done was with E at Montera three weeks ago. Two weeks in Chicago for business (on a really stormy day I was tempted to get anything that would float and paddle into the lake) and the extreme August flatness on the east coast in the last week continues to keep me from getting wet...
The more I think about it, the more I really enjoyed Montera as a break and Northern California surfing as a whole. I know that's one of your semi-regular breaks, but it is one of the best looking spots I've surfed. Every new day of flatness makes me want to get back there more and more. It's hard to want to surf everyday and live on the east coast, guess I'll be heading west sooner rather than later.
Just wanted to check in and let the niceness know they're posts are being viewed with longing everyday from the east coast. Be stoked you're getting waves everday, cause there's a whole coast of us suffering over here on lake Atlantic.
peace from Jersey...
Posted by: dan k at August 21, 2003 11:41 AMhang in there Dan K.. you'll get yours..
check out this kid..
Posted by: e at August 21, 2003 12:24 PMhuh.. let me try that again
Posted by: e at August 21, 2003 12:25 PMmaybe this time
Posted by: e at August 21, 2003 12:29 PMsounds like we all bobbed around roughly the same are this a.m., albeit at different times. I got in around 7:45...had some fun until that South wind/or maybe the tide, seemed to junk things up.
christian...how does Nico play with younger kids? I've got a 2 year-old and may be able to work something out like you mentioned. Hell, it would be good training...30 mins in...sprint like hell to catch anything that moves, 30 mins on the beach...sprinting like hell to keep up with the little movers. I like it...the surf, babywrangling training system.
On to other things...e, i feel you're pain. I have been in a slump of sorts for my last 3 sessions. Very inconsistent, doing really weird things on take offs (taking off, then realizing my leash is wrapped around my front foot, amongst other foibles). Keep trying to think of ways to mix things up...get back on track???
ck...go get a therapeutic(sp massage on the neck...can't hurt, as least for some short-term relief.
Posted by: jdz at August 21, 2003 12:43 PM
Posted by: at August 21, 2003 12:51 PMthats a big kid, i remember this one guy from where im from used to be this pretty overweight shortboard guy who actually ripped...he had a harder time getting started but once he had some speed he could throw so much water..pretty cool...anyway, i have the most relaxing end of the week ever, work was nuts for about a month up till tuesday night now chill time. so im gonna go surfing now, what are the chances of the beach being blown out by the time i get there? any recomendations maybe the street that sounds like the guy who betrayed Jesus?
Posted by: bagel at August 21, 2003 12:52 PM
Posted by: at August 21, 2003 01:31 PMPacheco betrayed Jesus?
Posted by: cam at August 21, 2003 01:38 PMSeriously tho, what kind of yoga do you guys do & how often do you go?
Cheers
Cam
Christian,
My girl is but 7 months old so would not last on the beach too long. Can't do the sitter/splitter yet but maybe next summer.
ck,
As for good Masseurs, when my neck is ailing I go to Jordan at Quan Yin (on Valencia near 16th). He is good and cheap. $45.00 an hour I think. He only works there Thursdays and Saturdays though.
Posted by: Friend #1 at August 21, 2003 01:44 PMCam,
I think Bagel's referring to Balboa, the lesser-known 13th apostle. If that's the case, I say head south to middle beach. The Vfers swell before 7:30 this morning was pretty miniscule and had that funky textured thing going on from the rip (so I'm told), despite the one rogue set that came through and slammed my face in the sand when I went over the falls...
Posted by: Nate at August 21, 2003 01:47 PMHas anyone been doing PM sessions lately?
Love the quote on that Silver Surfer board: "My purpose may be too esoteric for your comprehension!"
Did the airport run this morning and didn't get wet. Checked the Beach around noon and while there are small rides to be had, it ain't pretty. Still, anything's good in weather like this.
Cheers y'all!
Posted by: mwsf at August 21, 2003 01:54 PMEast coast two weeks ago:
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Posted by: Nate at August 21, 2003 02:35 PMFriend #1 - thanks for the rec! i've been looking for a good (and cheap!) masseuse.
Posted by: ck at August 21, 2003 03:38 PMP. Jetty
Posted by: e at August 21, 2003 04:43 PMOne more time with the east coast love:
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Posted by: Nate at August 21, 2003 06:57 PMBy the time I got out of the DMV yesterday (about 12:30 pm) it looked like the swell had dropped A LOT at Ocean Beach. A couple of spots appeared to still have a decent wave, but were getting hit by the wind pretty hard by that time. We ended up at Pedro in mushy waist high junk, amongst the usual CROWD. On my last wave in, a young beginner with an attitude dropped in RIGHT in front of me, bailed his board across my deck. I turned away from this bozo and pushed his board out of my way and headed in. No damage, no big deal - par for the course at that place. When I got into shore my son was waiting there, chuckling to himself.
Posted by: Jimmie at August 22, 2003 08:03 AM"That guy who just bumped into you? I sold him that board at the shop a few months ago. He came in acting like a jerk, obviously had never surfed and didn't want to hear any advise. He ended up with that little potato-chip thruster - completely the wrong board for learning." Thanks, Max - sheesh!
fryhil,ftkh,lgm,gm,fhbasjiqnhbeudygvfwejhfgvyreg5tjhgryfvgdjrkvfqytwegfsdgvfdhebvsdhgbvfdhbvvvvjbvjhbvkghbn
Posted by: at November 13, 2003 07:50 PMi think this page it is a boom , wow!! congratulations i be waiting more photos !
Posted by: ian at July 21, 2004 03:11 PMbyebye good luck
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