E's Surf Report

day 100 yesterday . . . not exactly pacesetting, but not bad either

e, too much copy paste on photo load

chili standing in for santa cruz

what's the latest on magazine???

Well, glad e and Blakestah caught some waves. The current south is nothing to write home about... I guess all the hype on Smurfline is due to the fact that, once again, the souths suck this year (with the exception of some of the early-season ones). Utility... nothing better.

Blakestah... where did you pick up the fish? I've got a 6'2" fish that has almost no entry or exit rocker and a big fish tail (I wish it was a 6'0", since it's got a bit too much volume for me). Set up with two large side fins and a small trailing stabilizer fin. Fun to take out every now and then, but the lack of rocker can make for some nice pearls if you forget and think you're on a thruster. Definately a different surfing experience than the usual board. I wanna get a single fin someday too.

e, when is your new board gonna be done?

-d

bojon.. i've been meaning to get back to you.. let's have a sesh and rap about mag..

when you say "too much copy paste on photo load" what do you mean.. is the site not working/formatting correctly?

anybody out there get weirdness with photos overlapping text on this site?

OMG... sickness from bbr... niceness.

-d

surfed the beach this morning. actually had a fun session. found a nice bar that was offering up some nice shoulder high faces. mellow and pleasant session in spite of thoughts of what lies beneath. at first i was hoping that someone else would paddle out, but then 10-15 people ended up right next to me.

ob beach cleanup on sunday at 10:00am on noriega. it always make me angry to see all that garbage, particularly beer bottles, left carelessly on the beach.

dano! you're the mano for giving us the SC scoop.. now i don't think i'll do the challenge tomorrow morning like i was contemplating..

christian.. nusa tengarra it is.. not bali.. do you know which wave? i'm not sure if you've surfed it... though.. maybe you have?? an aussie got his arm chopped off with a machete on the beach a few years back. lots of malaria..

sweet e, thanks for posting those. i'll have some video on my site next week as well as some surf journals from my trip.

i'm picking up a rental car (with unlimited mileage... shweeet!) at 4:30 so i think i'm gonna drive south until i find some decent waves. crossing my fingers the conditions are decent and the swell picks up. i think we're royally due for a big southern hemi. i hope september and october make up for the lack of swell so far....

btw the photos overlap the text on my mac when i make my browser window really small (as i usually do at work when procrastinating). doesn't really bother me at all, everything is still readable. however, you wouln't have that problem if you put the navigation on the left hand side and/or made the page a set width. late.

btw the photos overlap the text on my mac when i make my browser window really small (as i usually do at work when procrastinating). doesn't really bother me at all, everything is still readable. however, you wouln't have that problem if you put the navigation on the left hand side and/or made the page a set width. late.

Nameless northern end of a nearby urban beach (shhh!) near a rock which shall not be named, picking up the swell rather nicenessly. Saw a large marine life form surface near said rock from the parking lot while suiting up...just a mammal having a spirited breakfast. Told self: if that fatboy is playing around, C. Carl Carcharias is not in the vicinity. Foolish assumption, no doubt, but one needs something to tell oneself before plunging in to snårk-infested waters. Anyways, there were 15 other bipedal candidates for Apex predation splitting a couple of humpy peaks - and the risk. Listened to the Wise surf report afterward, which overstated the situation - I am one short mofo, and there was nothing over my head but cloud cover.

Ha, Redworm, well done! Nice post there.

I was a little disappointed in the swell this morning. I was UBBER ambitious to get down to north SC county for a dawnie but just didn't feel it this a.m. Glad I didn't.... Got as far south as the southern end of HMB and one local break in particular that I thought would be rearing its South Swell head. Only one at the locale but nothing doing. Thank god since I would have been spooked silly out there alone. Back up the coast to some random location I can't talk about. Paddled out and got some rides. Nothing mind blowing, not even any "practice" waves, just some general slurfing. Some people we all know were out there. Can't comment on that either for censorship purposes. Looking back in my rear view mirror out the parking lot, saw some impressive lines coming in.

Maybe OB this afternoon????

nice report redworm!

e, word up on mag rap session. maybe sometime next week (out o' town this weekend - heading somewhere south of canda, north of equator)

copy / paste comment related to repeat of chili shot on today's orginal entry (since been fixed).

btw, discourse on site last few days has been deep. tribute to the commune E has set up (madd props, bro).

redworm, that's a lot of eloquence for an astronaut . . .

redworm - sounds like you and I shared some turf this morning. I had mega fun for about 2 1/2 hours. I was the guy on the shortest board - an RP.

The south swell window for Ocean Beach is complicated. My advice is to DRIVE THE WHOLE BEACH WHEN A SOUTH SWELL IS RUNNING. This is MUCH more important for south swells than for our normal fare. I could expound on this for hours with appropriate yeast-flavored beverage in hand, but I personally don't consider it a niceness topic.

Dano - this was a 4 fin fish - also with little rocker. I talked someone I know into trading boards so he could try the UFO. It was a fairly flat board, with 2 fins on either rail (standard twinzer, actually), and a modest swallowtail. It came through SF Surfshop, but I don't know the shaper (probably John). It rode REALLY nicely, if I wanted to get a fish I would expend significant effort to get one just like it.

Blakestah, I am all ears....

found a peak that i shared with one other. water clear and not too cold. mostly windswell standing up on the inner bar at the 0 tide. occassional south ground swell offering up a nice little shoulder. great way to start the day for a kid who's been dry since Sunday! me thinks a double-sesh is in order today.

Bagel - i hope to catch your exhibit on Sunday. good luck!!

bagel.. give us the info about your exhibit!

christian, awesome...your vibes rule..

ok shameless plug (thanx e)..all niceness crew!..if any of y'all are in the area or just wanna check the shit out..im having a bunch of paintings up, this Sunday afternoon at:

Night Monkey
2223 Union St (at fillmore)
Sunday August 3rd

reception around 4:30-8:30 (it most likely will go on a bit longer)
free food
very cheap(ly priced) beer and wine

it would be awesome to see yall, i got a couple of surf related things in there that i really like and a dope painting of batman...

ive been running around all week, work deadlines aint helpin either (no surf since sunday)..im leaving work early today hopefully it will be crappy looking at ob and i wont have to stress even more about not surfing (like when i watched it last night and this morning almost crying)

i feel good waves this weekend (especially cause im so busy)..i like this tropical feel thats outside right now...

knitting report rules!
peace

Very good points Christian. I often wonder what things will be like 30 or 50 years from now. Will the Oceans off of the California coast line be clean enough to surf in? Will surfers need to wear some kind of a radiation suit? Will my daughter be able to take her childeren to the beach? Seeing all these primetime TV shows glorifying surfing bums me out on one hand, but on the other it makes me think, maybe if more people think about what an awsome resource our oceans are, maybe more people will take environmental concerns more seriously. Maybe the next time there are overhead offshore barrells at X beachbreak, maybe more people will notice, if that beach happens to be closed because it rained the day before. Everyone in their local community should be outraged if their local beach is closed because of pollution! If this was the mainstream mentality, I'd be willing to bet that maybe, just maybe, politicians or business leaders in power might notice.

On a different note, I can't believe that OB is so big that you can't just look down the beach and see where the good waves are. It's hard to picture a beach where when one street is good that day or week, it's a "secret". Are many surfers in SF too lazy to check the entire beach? I know E and the niceness crew aren't lazy about finding good surf. I've walked the entire stretch of the ranch, and pattled the length of military bases in search of good waves, so it's hard to relate to a secret part of one stretch of beach.

E, those pictures of Chili are really cool. Has anyone looked at a map of Chili? I'll bet that country has waves that would blow your mind.

nice words christian, redworm and the rest of the crew. I love the new and improved "vagueness" of the reports. Classic.

I'm a little bummed as I broke the fin out of my mainstay board yesterday morning. Did it in small surf, going backside and just really doing nothing that I can even brag about. I don't even know how I did it. Just came up and the fin was completely gone. Weird thing was it was an FCS setup and one of the plugs was completely torn out. Guess that fin didn't snap like it was supposed to???? Anyone know if an FCS plug is fixable/worth fixing? Although I think I like the "no" answer as it gives me a good "excuse" to use on the wifey to go order a new board. "No honey, there's no fixing that board....guess I'll just have to go get a new one." Ha! Actually, I have to say she's pretty damn cool about my surfing "needs". But I once again ramble on...

Hope to see some of you heads Sunday at the Funky Monkey for Bagels show. Sounds like it should be a good time.

Have a niceness weekend.

this just in from my friend in SD [ i assume since this is 500 miles away i don't need to encrypt placenames?]

" P got your board today and took it for a test drive out at the best day at windansea this summer; 4-6 feet (72 degree agua)out of the SW. Crowded conditions ,but few old locals, so it was easy to get waves. The board paddles quite well and seemed to listen to me, I got about 6 waves in about a half an hour,  and didn't have to swim. Now that it is clean ,I'll stash it until I leave"

speak it christian. check out this pic!

if i was on that boat at T-poo.. i would, like, totally jump off the back and bodysurf into the sickest barrel of my life.. then i'd dive under the water and check out all the colorful fish near the reef.. yup..

e

i love reading this site right before leaving work (ah ha ha!) and heading out to look for waves...it just makes me happy as a clam. lots of food for thought for the weekend...

i saw kelly slater for about a nanosecond last night, with a multitude of other folks at Book Passage. (got to listen to him for a bit longer though...) i thought what he said about learning to link tiny pockets of energy was really cool...very inspiring. and there were a ton of little surf kiddies milling about...also very inspiring! here's to hoping each of them can have at least one wave all to themselves in another 20 years...

have a great weekend one and all!

cumulus - just shutting down (to squeeze in a quick eve sesh) and thought i'd give the site one last glance. dude!...so sorry to hear of your incident. serious aggro-ness!! nice work keeping your head...and very strong to end with some pos stoke re your new ride! i'm sure good karma will be yours.

**MERMEN** tonight at 111 Minna. 10:30 $10. I heard Slater may show up!.

cumu, that's a crazy story, and bummer about your board...but is your promoting of the spot part of your revenge on him? there are others (good people) hurt by that too. (see 69 postings from two days ago).

speaking of which..e and gang, you should have come on the sc challenge. the lane was SICK this morning [albeit late morning..it probably would have made you miss work, those of you who have jobs;) ]

jdz - an FCS plug is replaceable.

The biggest problem with FCS is that the plugs aren't stronger than the fin mounts in the board, usually, so you are experiencing a common failure.

The good part is the plug can be replaced, although not cheaply (prolly try Alex Martins, I heard from a friend of his that he does good work).

WRT that drop-in at Montara, my rule to live by on drop-ins has been, for a long time, that I will not drop in on any situation when my board could injure someone else. And, I get pretty PO'd when someone else doesn't keep his board safe.

Today, for example, a new surfer I've seen a few times was paddling out next to, and slightly in front of, me. A set wave came, we ate whitewater. He ditched his board, and it launched right at me. No contact, no foul, but I informed him that he has to hold onto his board when he is near others.

First rule of surf etiquette - do not become a danger to others through your own lack of control, or that of your board.

That being said, if someone intentionally dinged my board for such an offense, I don't know how I would respond. Kudos to cumulus for holding back, although I never stay in the water when my board is dinged and taking on water.

Enough for now, more UFO tomorrow, it seems.

Swell picked up a bit today at times, but sets were sparse.

-d

Last 3 days - 6 sessions.

Arms very tired.

Biggest today, tomorrow should bring more. I actually surfed an overhead wave or two today - SC county/city musta been off the hook.

How long can this "tropical wave" go on?

Forecast till Monday or Tuesday, then summer comes back. Enjoy it while it lasts.

Showed the UFO to Bill Hickey, shaper of 50 years. Said he'd never seen anything like it, and thought it constituted "true innovation" if it works. And the testing continues. Actually, now I am just having fun riding it.

I surfed an insane left today for 4 hours somewhere on the California coast. Me and 5 other friends had a pretty large shoulder-over head peak to ourselves the entire time. Plate glass. Barrels galore. Sections. Warm water. yup, fun stuff. It was actually crowded down the beach, which is surprising as there usually aren't many people at this beach.

Ian, you had the place to yourself a few days ago.

You posted about it here, naming the place.

And then it got crowded a few days later.

Now, more than a few people know about that place, but it takes something to bring a crowd. A few ppl with bullhorns in the right places. You wouldn't believe how many ppl I heard talking about it yesterday.

Long range forecast. No strong onshores till the end of the week at earliest, and no buoy readings over 3 feet, either. If the south is running, now's the time to catch it.

poor blakestah, he looks out his beachfront window and sees that there are people out there surfing. too bad he can't surf alone. that 2 minute walk to the water is going to be tough knowing that he must share with others.

and to add insult to injury, he can't even find seclusion down in san mateo county anymore. what is this surfing world coming to?

the answer:

"You have to be comfortable letting others have things. If you enjoy watching someone you don't even know get a good ride, then you're enjoying surfing even more. " Kelly Slater

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