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found some

Lerm reports that OB looks a tad larger than yesterday.. but kinda crumbly and funkadelic. We made a plan to meet at another beach and i bee-lined it down there. Sometimes the natural elements meld and overlap is such a way as to take your breath away. A gentle offshore breeze feathered and shellacked the ocean surface. Pure, coarse large grains of sand crunched underfoot as we made our way to the water's edge. Lerm and i paddled out to an empty lineup. A heavy morning mist enshrouded the coastal mountains. Wind, fog and shadow. Kenetic energy in the air, in our lungs, circulating through the valley. Lerm takes off and cruises backside down the line. Bright, tan sand under 3 feet of crystalline turquoise water. Offshore-licked shoulder-high beach-break peaks. Lots of waiting but enough waves to keep us satisfied. A dude paddles out and kind-of follows us around the lineup a bit.. a little frustrating at first since there are plenty of peaks and nobody out.. he uses his longboard-abilities to get into waves early and takes a few away from the Lerminator. no biggy though.. we keep trying to paddle away into our own space. The Lerm and said longboarder are inside when a chunkified left calls my name.. a few strokes, then a precipitous pig-dog/hang-on takeoff and i'm missiling down the line for a moment or two until i get squashed on the inside right in front of said dude. He then busts me for being "E". ends up being a nice fella from Jersey.. the fog begins to lift. rays of sunshine warm our skin and reflect spectral brilliance off wind-whipped wave-mist. more and more people paddle out. a few more tantalizing waves mix with long minutes of nothing coming through.. We finish up and can't believe how many surfers are parked in the lot and preparing to hit the water. We bemoan the crowd for a minute and momentarily question the value of this here report.. question its effect of crowd dynamics and the double-edged sword of inspiring surf enthusiasm.. I reflect on how unfortunate it is that the whole world can't share in the stoke of surfing because of its inherently limited resources. If everyone were sharing in it, nobody would be stoked.. I reflect back on my days as a footbagger, on how "the more the merrier" was the utter, total, absolute philosophy of the game. just thoughts..

e

this looks like norcal (not sure though).. anybody know the spot?
grey barrel

more t-poo shots
tpoo

tpoo

tpoo

Now your getting it.

Your posts have an effect. But so does swell.

I surfed said beach break in the first few hours of the day Sat-Monday. Saturday was best wave-wise but crowd was there. I was ninth guy in the water at 7:30 Saturday, 20 guys out when I left at 9:00. The first in the water at 7:00 Sunday, 15 guys out when I left at 8:30. I was the only one out from 6:30 to 8:00 on Monday.

So Tuesday rolls around. You get in first in the middle and then give a stellar report.

Come Wednesday it is packed up with folks again.


Like the Longboarder following you around, I want to bust you for being E.

You are sometimes a bit too specific in your reports.

Your perma-positive vibe also may cause you to overrate the conditions a bit.

You also seem to have a photographic memory for waves, even with all the smoke you blow.

Please don't bum on the critiques above. They are minor transgressions. I only mention them to point out that when you add them all up, you get results like you saw today.

To quote Angry Jeff:

"It's that goddamned Internet!"

Peace

Posted by: Friend #1 at July 30, 2003 10:55 AM

E, checked you guys at the beach this morning. As I pulled up, you guys must have been behind a laser-guided shark or something because you weren't in the lot nor in the water. Anyway, after scanning the situation, I decided that I was going to pass on the easy paddle/walk out and just perch about. Grabbed my 8mm camera from my Surf Sled and chilled out for a bit. You guys were most likely thinking some spy was watching you before the longboarder came out to greet y'all. Anyway, got you guys on some crunchy shoulders with the 8mm. Wish it would have been a bit bigger for footage wise but then again, that would have caused me to paddle out. I was a bit disappointed overall on the beaches this a.m. as I thought more swell would be showing itself. Wasn't the case.

Yeah, the lot got full. 4-5 cars pulled in as I made my way back towards work. Funny how that happens. Similar to my experience this past weekend down south. No one out then BLAM!!!! You are sitting next to 10 close friends at a wide open beach break. Anyway, didn't join in the session but I was there in spirit.

Posted by: Kaiser at July 30, 2003 10:56 AM

http://www.tuffproductions.com/gmac.html

Posted by: e at July 30, 2003 11:05 AM

Started the day with the ultimate 6:30am mad-dash to the airport to drop off my girlie and my friend for their 7:45am and 8:15am flights. Ran into MAJOR traffic on 280 S due to a big accident. Ditched the freeway and navigated the side streets to the airport. Super-stressed due to the impending takeoff of their flights. Dropped off my girlie at the skycap with 10 minutes to go and found out shortly after that she missed it. Dropped my friend at the skycap for his flight and assume he made it on. Got the hell out of there and headed for the coast...

...ran into lerm and E at the break described above and hit it. Had one of the best seshies of my life. Beautifully groomed shoulder-to-head high waves at the peak I was on. Caught four or five nice rides in the 30-40 minutes I was out. Really didn't notice any probs with crowds but I got on it later. Probably ten guys in the water when I got in and two in the water when I got out. Wind kinda picking up by then. Had a great conversation with the lone fisherman out on the way to my car.

By my scale, it was easily a 9 out there today with my pre-surf airport dash rating a -2.

Cheers!

Posted by: mwsf at July 30, 2003 11:09 AM

friend #1.. seriously dude, i appreciate your comments. I know that many people out there feel the same way you do.. especially some of my close friends who often make me promise not to mention shit on this here report. Sometimes i'm overcome by the urge to share in the spoils i find and experience.. but.. i've definitely noticed the crowd-attracting affects more than once. soo.. with that in mind.. unless i'm surfing Lindy or the beach.. i'll keep spot-specifics vague.. I'll try to keep spewing the stoke while at the same time leave the adventuring and exploring to y'all.. I deeply, whole-heartedly apologize if the presence of this report has adversly effected crowd pressures at sensitive surf spots.. it sucks if you're the guy that diligently waits and checks and hounds a particular spot.. then scores it one morning after weeks of waiting.. only to have 15 pasty-white, internet-dudes (me included!) paddle out all around you, chatting about how they heard this beach was going off on some internet surf report. i feel bad about that.. surfing is weird like that.. we love to discuss and chat and describe and relate.. but.. when surfing.. we like our solitude and space.. or something.. anyway.. thanks for commenting friend #1.. i've taken it to heart..

Posted by: e at July 30, 2003 11:22 AM

I scoff at your driving, and went to good ole OB again. Friend #1 is too funny, but I shouldn't say that too loudly b/c his dog is much bigger than mine.

Me and 4 others out suckling in the new swell at the beach. A good time, for the less than glassy conditions. Then, on the way out, crazy no-wetsuit bodysurfer came in. What a trip that guy is.

The UFO (unidentified floating object) is well broken in now, with 5 days running. I swear it is self-correcting. Each day I've been dropping in later and later, and the board just guides itself in under my feet. I recognized the potential for that when I designed it, but I never figured it would work out so well. Making late drops has never been easier. Still need a test-pilot for this, the second generation UFO. Maybe a-morrow. If you are interested email me, it is a shortie short board potato chip size.

Angry Jeff may say "It's that goddamned Internet!" but he also says "Keep surfing no matter what." I loathe public mention of anything reasonably specific about surfing locations, and surf cams. Let people figure it out the old-fashioned way - investment of time. Just tell them you went to Pleasure Point again. Just check the web logs from this site - I bet there are a hundred-plus eyes looking for surfing info lurking here every day.

Well, today I surfed lumpy crappy OB nearly alone - come and get it!


Posted by: blakestah at July 30, 2003 11:26 AM

Posted by: bbr at July 30, 2003 11:30 AM

More fresh shark chum at OB (7/30/03)
as reported by surfpulse.com today
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Shark bitten, dead sea lion washed up at Ocean Beach Wednesday morning just south of Noriega. The carcass, which is approximately 8 feet long, had several large bites taken from various parts of the body. The largest bite mark is over 2 feet in diameter, which if it's from a single bite, could indicate the presence of a very large whitey. Most of the bite marks are clearly from at least medium-sized sharks. The fresh carcass is oozing fresh blood and dislodged entrails into the water. Be advised that this is fresh chum and there are likely some hungry critters in the area. There were at least two reported shark sightings at Ocean Beach last week while a whale carcass was beached just a ¼ mile north of this sea lion’s present resting place.

Posted by: Crawl at July 30, 2003 12:32 PM

funny thing is...that whale only had bite marks of 18 inches, and they said that shark was at least 18 feet. This sealion apparently has a 24 inch bite. I wonder how big THAT shark was.

Posted by: Crawl at July 30, 2003 12:40 PM

damn.. the tooth..

prediction: blakestah is remembered as the modern-day simon anderson (inventor of the thruster) of surfboard innovation. get christian on that chip for some high-performance evaluation..

christian.. great to hear that Neco is feelin' good and on the mend..

damn.. the landlord.. farrkk..

Posted by: e at July 30, 2003 12:42 PM

I really don't think that a "crowd" out at a spot has anything to do with E mentioning a spot on niceness. It's more likely that some surfers did the same drive, saw some action in the water and decided to head out. If you want a crowd - try surfing Blacks when a south swell is running. Quit whining!

And so what if E drops the name of spot? It's not like there are any "secret" spots left in the bay area. For people like me, who have a very limited amount of time to search for waves during the week (we have a job, ya know) - it's nice to know when it's glassy down south as opposed to wind chop at OB.

I give E huge props for this site and the vibe he has created. Let's keep it rolling.

Posted by: caveman at July 30, 2003 12:46 PM

I would be on major alert in the water at OB right now. It's landlord season. There's all kinds of life at the moment right outside the line-up. Just look at the number of fishing boats anchoring just beyond the sandbars. There are schools of gamefish out there, the fishermen know it, and the landlord knows it. And he's just reaping the rewards. BE VERY CAUTIOUS OUT THERE, THINK BEFORE YOU STEP INTO THE WATER, ESP FOR THOSE WITH LITTLE EXPERIENCE SURFING.

Posted by: Bug at July 30, 2003 12:49 PM

Just to echo bug and crawl . . .It's almost August - prime whitey season. So think where you are and try stay by the crowd. Which as Friend #1 pointed out - shouldn't be too hard.

On that point, I agree with Caveman. E's site's been great for those of us jonesing for surf. Not sure if the site's added conjestion to the line up, but it's definitely added a few more smiles and hello's to my sessions, which I know is result of E's niceness vibe.

Thanks E!

d looose

Posted by: d looose at July 30, 2003 01:02 PM

E, good seeing you this morning. I saw you slip into a few before you got out, and I guess you got to see me take my best head first, over the falls, pig dog, air drop of the day. I've gotta say, my being at that beach had nothing to do with this report. In fact, I was originally planning on hitting the jetty before I checked that spot and decided that any more driving would not be worth it, especially with the check engine light on. Probably a decision others made as well.

Posted by: adam at July 30, 2003 01:45 PM

Ahh... once again the naming or not naming of places. True there are no "secret" spots anymore, but no need to draw a treasure map to them. If I want good waves (and crowds), I'll just go to the kHook, The Point or The Lane pretty much any day... but I don't 'cause I really don't like surfing with 10 gillion other people. I think it is just respectful not to name names and when these places fire. Lots of places are visible from Highway 1, but so what? It's part of the reward of surfing to "discover" these places. The reward earned is much more valuable then the reward given. Just my 2 cents.

-d

P.S. It's the Internet, but cellphones are probably worse.

Posted by: dano at July 30, 2003 01:46 PM

totally agree with caveman: wasn't this site about niceness? i think it's nice that people are willing to share waves with each other. and i agree there are no secret spots left in the area. just look at deadman's on a solid winter day or check the chronicle if you need more info on the spot. seriously, montara a secret spot?, come on. let's stick with the niceness vibe and share knowledge so those without half a day to drive and scout can get some good waves.

no matter what e says, there's going to be crowds at a spot shortly after it gets good. ocean beach, linda mar, deadmans, montara, jetty, whatever. with all the friends calling each other, internet cams, drive bys--the surfers will know.

if e doesn't give the 411, then less people will read the site and therefore less knuckleheads will be anointed with the niceness juice.

Posted by: dingus at July 30, 2003 01:55 PM

Dano, you hit the nail on the head! Cell phones are the enemy, not entirely the internet. I only have about 5 surf bros in the cell phone. But how many times have you seen the roll up, check the surf, call your bro's and off you go. Way too many for me. I am guilty as hell! I admit it. But my bro rolodex is 5 and only 5.

Although plenty of "secret" spots are withing earshot of Highway 1, most of those secret spots don't have cams, don't have cell phone reception and don't have nice little showers to wash your nice little toesies off. So, if you like that sort of stuff, its Sloat or Lindy for you! Oh, you can go to the Jetty as well but the shower sucks.

Posted by: Kaiser at July 30, 2003 01:59 PM

Damn, just a poke at E's shoulder and all his bro's jump up to get his back.

Remember how my post started:

Your posts have an effect. But so does swell.

The Days that Montara was crowded were due to a) ridable swell there, b) lack of same elsewhere, c) after effects of good reports of days previous from E and others. Probably in that order.

The word gets out, and I'm sure Jeff's call was tongue in cheek.

Personally, I would sooner place the blame on all the cellphone toting hipsters that can't seem to surf a spot unless the whole gang is there.

E,

If anything, I wish you were more cagey in reference to which street of OB you surfed that morning, since that is my home break.

Again, these are minor transgressions. I think it is great that you run this site. More often than not it has encouraged me to surf in conditions I would normally take a pass on.

There have been several times though when I have surfed the same spot at the same time as you and somehow my session pales in comparison to yours.

Whatever, how often do you want to criticize someone for being too positive?

Any complaints I might have for you letting out the word are more than counterbalenced by the overall increase in stoke your site provides. This translates into nicer crowds in the water, I would hope.

Posted by: Friend #1 at July 30, 2003 01:59 PM

Running out the door to the plane, but just thought I'd add if anyone objects to ye olde Mid OB lunch reports, let me know. Positive feedback so far, and OB is hardly a secret spot. But I wouldn't want to muck things up if peeps thought the reports were doing harm I can back off or change, no problem.

Happy Surfing!

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at July 30, 2003 02:00 PM

is that a dolphin? this might be the most freaked out about sharks ive been at ob...i think ive always just thought ob was so filthy that the fellas would just wanna chill out at the faralons messing with the discovery channel and abalone divers and elephant seals..its the damn whale oil!..i pray ob's record will stay perfect

.i also am stoked on this site for surf info..i think that old charthouses's is no secret (if that is where you guys surfed) and if your like e and wake up to surf at 4am every day you can still find pleanty of waves...but i am also kind of bummed that it has become alot more crowded over recent years. also i didnt know that gwc was called gwc before i saw the knitting report..but im not telling anybody about my secret little right point somewhere between kellys and dm's mmuhuhuhuuahahahaahaa..anyway keep it up e..
peace..

Posted by: bagel at July 30, 2003 02:07 PM

This report is definitely enticing people into the zone. I'd go dark on naming all precise surf spots if I were you. You are a soulful and nice-sounding guy, and I love your site but too many people are reading it now and will end up right where you're enjoying it most. Always a double-edged sword.
Kindly submitted,
Douglas in SF

Posted by: Douglas at July 30, 2003 02:07 PM

http://www.edwinmarcow.com/gallery%201/ws021.jpg

duh..oh is that a dolphin?

Posted by: bagel at July 30, 2003 02:10 PM

i discovered this site randomly a few weeks ago, while googling for info about traction pads. i've been reading almost daily ever since. i find it especially inspirational during this time of year. also great to have access to articulate but surf writing about local spots (sans commerce).

the limited resources conundrum looms large for the bay area wave rider community regardless of the postings here. this is not to say that the internet hasn't sped the exploitation rate a bit. but i think that the surf industry/hollywood is as much/more to blame. cell phones too.

all of these things seem here to stay, so for me the question is what now? the answers seem to be a function of personal philosophy and politics more than anything else, and i find the writing on this site to be a source of optimism about the mindset of at least some bay area wave riders. keep it coming.

hope to meet some of the niceness crew in the water soon, and that the niceness vibe catches on more broadly. thanks.

Posted by: loon at July 30, 2003 02:14 PM

Wow, I thought Friend #1 sparked a nice debate.

I am guilty of all the sins that have been shared here at least one time or another. Yeah, I have called a buddy to tell him to meet me at the beach. Yeah, I have said that I surfed Lawton with 60 others. Yeah, I said I surfed Waddell last week. Yeah, I was at the beach this morning where we all were between 6:45 and 7:20 shotting film instead of surfing. Yeah, I thought the surf was weak and I didn't paddle out. Yeah, I was there last night too. Yeah, I was at OB yesterday morning and only 1 other person in the world knew it was me because he was surfing with me..... I follow, I lead, I sleep and I eat at various times of the day.

Point to take home, I think there is a code of conduct and ethics to be applied for all in this forum. I trust that E can continue following his as he has created this world. Likewise, we all need to regulate each other, most importantly OURSELVES! Good points from all including Friend #1. But this is just my opinion.

Posted by: Kaiser at July 30, 2003 02:17 PM

tough issue with the naming/not naming of spots. I guess I'd have to go with the "keep it vague", but then I think, well, how hard is it to figure things out it you have half a brain and a general idea of the nearby coastline? So what extra impact is this site having?

It's a friggin vicious circle and I don't know if there is any good answer, but I do know that it is very cool that people are discussing the topic with very lucid and well thought out dialogue. And that the discussion hasn't degenerated into a hail of expletives and epithets is very cool. Good on ya.

bagel - that pic is downright scary.

Posted by: jdz at July 30, 2003 02:26 PM

I say FUCK THE SHARKS!!!! They're the locals I hate the most.

Posted by: jdz at July 30, 2003 02:30 PM

sorry couldn't help myself...out

Posted by: jdz at July 30, 2003 02:31 PM

I've been running a surf forecasting site for 7 years, and I receive almost no hate email. This is directly related to me

1) providing swell and wind forecasting based on available net resources

2) not mentioning specific places to surf.

Seriously, crowds do move around based on available information. If you'd been here before the nefarious internet surf cams went up, you'd have seen a dramatic change. It used to be almost everyone surfed the north and south ends, and few people in between where ppl like Friend #1 and I live.

e - your site is getting big now. I find it particularly motivating to head out on more marginal days, and I really dig the niceness. But mentioning street names at OB, or mentioning beaches other than Linda Mar, are going to create ppl who really dislike you.

You can spread a lot of good vibes without giving up the goods.

Posted by: blakestah at July 30, 2003 02:39 PM

I just want to see E post to the site without any outside "censorship." His posts are some of the best reads on the net. If his brain is spewing and his fingers are typing, he shouldn't have to worry about naming or not naming a specific spot. Just let him do his thing and keep the niceness flowing.

Posted by: caveman at July 30, 2003 02:53 PM

there's always going to be people that don't like e just because he does this report. those are the same people who think they're entitled to waves more than others and the same people that this site is opposed to. don't concede to the 'locs!

blaker, how is this site any different from your techno sites that you use to optimize your surf experience? without such sites, we all stand to be less efficient in our surf hunting.

what the hush-hush/locals crowd wants is to have more info themSELVES. that seems anti-niceness to me.

Posted by: dingy at July 30, 2003 02:53 PM

This may sound stupid, but just what the hell are you REALLY supposed to do if you see a shark in the water near where you're surfing?

Do you paddle your ass in as fast as possible? That always seems like it would draw some serious attention to you.

Do you chill out and try and look like some big ol' piece of drift wood and hope the fucker goes away?

Anyone know?

Posted by: Crawl at July 30, 2003 03:01 PM

blakestah - Do you seriously believe that mentioning Noriega or putting up a cam causes a crowd? I don't think it has anything to do that - but possibly the fact that surfing is one of the fastest growing sports right now. Why not blame Hollywood for the crowd?! North shore "reality" TV shows?! Or the innate ability of people to learn how to do things better - maybe that "crowd" was learning to surf at Lindy 5 years ago.

I really don't think that E mentioning a spot on his site creates a crowd. It's human nature to paddle out where you see other surfers catching good waves. And if a crowd springs up around me, it's usually pretty easy to paddle away and still find some gems.

Posted by: at July 30, 2003 03:10 PM

E,

I thought I'd be a nice guy and say hello to you this AM. In my defense: 1. the current was pulling us north and paddling south was requisite to keep from ending up at GWC, 2. who wants to surf alone at Montara?, and 3. I really did want to meet the man behind the words. Sorry, if it seemed like I was a little aggro on that peak. I agree entirely with caveman. This site has good Karma and is extremely useful for those with a regimented work schedule and a family to deal with. Kudos to you for the time and effort.

Also, I don't think that the waves are significantly more crowded due to your sometimes occult reports. The crowd threshold has already been reached a decade ago.

Just my prespective.

Posted by: EBS at July 30, 2003 03:10 PM

Just so you don't think some anonymous person is piping up - the last post it mine...

Posted by: caveman at July 30, 2003 03:11 PM

How is naming places to surf different from a site providing weather info?

Surfers at the beach are a community, with its own set of social constructs. Everyone is equally interested in when swell is coming in, and what weather is supposed to do, and socially this information is shared liberally.

In contrast, information about PLACES to surf is far more guarded. No one who lives on Rivera Street is going to shout out that Rivera Street is going off so that everyone can come crowd his neighborhood. You say you had a good session, go back the next day, and wonder when/if ppl will catch on.

These social constructs can be violated severely by people from outside the community. The guy who runs Surfpulse gets hassled CONSTANTLY for putting a surf cam up pointed at the beach in the neighborhood. He is literally hated by many (I actually like him, but hate the cam), for his transgressions against normal surfer constructs.

So what is different? People's attitudes towards your behavior. Spreading stoke and sharing weather info is universally acceptable, calling people in to a normally scarcely surfed spot is much less so.

I can see the viewpoint of ppl who don't live at the beach, but I feel they should (as I used to) get out and explore for themselves.

And, e, consider these just precursors. As the site grows, naming names will bring a lot of wrath into your inbox (something I can attest to firsthand).

Posted by: blakestah at July 30, 2003 03:17 PM

Geez Caveman,

Lighten up a bit.

All the things you mention have an effect.

No doubt about it though, if you compare this last summer to the last three, there are definitely more people surfing the middle of the beach.


Partly this is because this summer has been more rideable than past years. Partly this is because there is a pack of surfers that has developed that like to surf Pacheco/Quintara in seemingly any conditions. Partly it is becuase of the Pollo Enfermo party house on Great Highway. Partly it is becuase the weather has been warmer than normal.

AND, Partly because of E's Surf Report.


Posted by: Friend #1 at July 30, 2003 03:27 PM

Friend #1, you missed, by far, the biggest effect. Surfline. Their North Ocean Beach camera shows the waves at Ortega. Surfpulse basically shows the same thing.

To give you an idea of how many ppl see this, consider: Surfline offers $600/month to host a surfing web cam. A small price to become a pariah to your neighbors. Subscription is $10/month, so there need to be over 100 ppl per cam to break even.

People think the cams are located at hotspots. They go where the cams point. This effect is enormous, far larger than e's report or the Pollo Enfermo house. There is a dude in Huntington Beach named Sean Collins who is selling out every surf hood on the California Coast for personal profit.

OK - time to think good thoughts again... there is no doubt surf crowds in town are increasing, and people are crowding in more everywhere.

Posted by: blakestah at July 30, 2003 03:47 PM

Well Crawl, down here in Montara, what we usually do when we see a shark is try and lure it over to one of the visiting city surfers in the lineup... ;-)


Since no-one else living here has thrown in .02 (or they haven't id'd themselves as such), I will.

It isn't a big deal to me. But I am certain people do appreciate it when folks refrain from pointing out that spot X or spot Y in particular is firing.

We're kind of screwed by virtue of proximity when things are working here and they're flat/sloppy up north, in terms of crowds. But I don't think anyone minds the typical visitors from the city. You can surely find a grom or two to disagree, but I'm not hearing any griping out there in the lineup.

I do think that the cellphone brodex is a far more significant problem (everywhere) than whether or not one stoked guy with a copy of movable type happens to write "montara" or "waddel" instead of "a beach". I tend to get a little bummed when I walk to the beach for my morning surfcheck and see five guys sitting in cars on the phone. (We got the surplus explosives from the army navy store, but so far we haven't been able to locate the sprint and verizon repeaters...)

The rest's been flogged to death here, so I'll leave it.

Now, if I could just figure out whether it was Matt or Kaiser who snaked me the other night...

;-)

Posted by: grant at July 30, 2003 03:50 PM

Wasn't me! What kind of board was the "snaker" on?

Posted by: Kaiser at July 30, 2003 03:56 PM

I think one thing we can all agree on is that there are more people surfing (whether at our local break or in general) than in previous years, decades, whatever. It is a fact that the population of surfers is growing. Talk to anyone who has surfed the same stretch of coastline over a number of years and you will get the same response: "Damn, it's a lot more crowded than it used to be." Whether it's due to weather, the internet, cell phones, e's surf report, the mass marketing of the "surfing lifestyle", or just the fact that surfing is pretty much the most amazing thing one can do with his/her free time...is irrelevant. The genie was let out of the bottle a long time ago. Unfortunately, we will not see a reduction in the surfing populous. My opinion.

I guess what I am trying to say is that all this discussion about what or who does what to inspire the multitudes to surf at any given place at any given time is pointless (also my opinion). We just have to find a way to make the construct (as blakestah says) work given the new parameters it operates in.

Posted by: jdz at July 30, 2003 03:58 PM

whew! this is definitely one of the classic debates in all of surfing.. the naming of spots. I helped to build Swell/surfline a few years back with mwsf and when we launched the site editors steve hawk and company received a ridiculous amount of hate-mail in regard to the "travel" section. It's a heavy issue. I greatly appreciate all the candid remarks and thoughtful arguments voiced here today. A few months back i mentioned scott's creek and received a slew of impassioned emails warning me agaist naming that spot. I'm definitely not trying to ruffle feathers via this surf report. and i empathize with all who've experienced increased crowds at their favorite spots. that sucks. In the future i just won't name names unless it's Lindy or OB.. don't worry caveman.. it won't interfere with tapping into any unobstructed stream of consciousness.. In regard to mentioning street names at OB, I'll be more sensitive to middle-of-the-beach sandbars and whatnot as they pop up.. i'll try to just refer to OB as OB.. though it's fun to throw in a Sliz reference once in a while, or Norischmegma or Orschmegma.. or Kirk-jam or Pachiz, or "Lion of Judah".. umm.. what.. now! let's all go surf Fort Point! then Deadman's.. then Ano, then stockton ave, then Moss Landing, then Fullers, then Killers, then Hazzard Canyon, then Left Spot, then Silver Strand, then Lunada Bay! Just tell em' E sent ya!

oh yeah.. adam.. that wipeout this morning was legendary! good on ya for going for it though! That was the chunky left i was talking about!

Posted by: e at July 30, 2003 04:06 PM

So Surfpulse shoots at Ortega?

I always thought it had to be north or south of the promenade since it seems like there is foliage in the foreground.

Oh well.

I do have to blame the Cellphone effect can be blamed for what I experienced down at Montara over the weekend.

6 to 8 guys would show up and paddle out within 5 minutes of each other. It was like someone blew the air horn for the heat to begin.

Posted by: Friend #1 at July 30, 2003 04:10 PM

i didn't even know that surfline/surfpulse pointed at ortega and don't think many others knew that. also, this year brought pretty small swell, so naturally the middle ob is going to get more action.

blakestah spends a lot of time exploring where to surf/building boards/surf cam placement, etc. and thereby feels entitled to having some privacy. others blame the internet for ruining their private experiences. it's a contradiction in terms to blame the internet but then use it for your own purposes. seems to me that e usually surfs sloat or lincoln areas and rarely adds to middle of the beach crowding.

i've been surfing ob for a while and don't mind others crowding my "spot" because there are so many other spots and because the sharing attitude needs to spread. the niceness vibe should go all the way and people should be invited to join e whereever he sees fit. the "you shouldn't post names" threats are so anti-niceness that they become localism/entitlement. that's a bigger concern than having to share waves at ortega or noriega, or wherever.

Posted by: ding at July 30, 2003 04:15 PM

Friend #1...I noticed that you have a .gov ext on your email. This worries me. Now I'm not usually the paranoid type, but this has conspiracy written all over it. Are you trying to infiltrate the surfing underground to incite a revolution to overthrow e? Are you CIA?

Lol...kidding...i'm a little loopy as I didn't get too much sleep last night. Please excuse my drivel.

blakestah, If I didn't feel like absolute crap, I would love to test drive the UFO tomorrow. Your descriptions of how the thing performs are making be froth at the mouth. Just make sure you patent that sucker. Can't wait to see it.

Posted by: jdz at July 30, 2003 04:17 PM

Here we go again on this secret spot/code of silence topic. Can't resist throwin in my .02:

Crowds are here to stay, bay area population density assures that. Surfing continues to be enjoyed by many well into old age, so as new generations become interested, the nearby breaks will get more and more crowded because there are fewer people leaving the sport than might be the case with other activities. There really are no secret spots;no ownership. All local breaks reachable by land have been surfed before. Surfers attract surfers. Other than the first person out, anyone scoping for the right spot has a keen eye out for cars with racks while they are moseying up and down the road.

I have no doubt that E's report fuels interest in the sport because of the positive vibe, but I doubt named breaks are affected significantly as I don't believe those who are looking for surf are driving to places they otherwise wouldn't because of what they read.

I particularly don't understand the OB block issue. With a good pair of binocs anyone with a little interest can scan half the beach from the right ledges in the mid sunset. Beyond that, the sandbars are so affected by the waves and tides, that most good spots have changed within a couple hours.

I vote for as little censorship as possible.

Posted by: nad at July 30, 2003 04:19 PM

OB (photo by sachi cunningham)

Posted by: e at July 30, 2003 04:23 PM

A cell phone lets one person tell one other person. And, btw, cell phones do not work in the Montara lot.

An e's surf report lets one person tell 100 what surf was like once a day at one spot.

A surveillance cam lets Sean Collins tell hundreds of people what the surf is like continuously, eggregiously violating the privacy of the people who live there. People naturally are drawn to cam locations, simply because that is where they saw the surf. It is a natural human tendency.

"It was going off on the surf cam. I'm in a hurry, so I just go right where I saw the surf."

It is basic human nature. It is no coincidence the hosters of surf cams don't get along with their neighbors.

Posted by: blakestah at July 30, 2003 04:23 PM

I enjoy the fact that E can find something good about almost any miserable, crappy day. I read it as more of a surf diary than a surf report and it brightens my day when I'm stuck in a cube. The location references could be completely dropped without any impact as far as I'm concerned.

Posted by: R3W at July 30, 2003 04:32 PM

Just to point out the obvious... surfers are lemmings for the most part. Name a spot or have a cam there and people will come. Don't think this is so? Paddle out at The Beach and sit on a peak all by yourself surrounded by other peaks or equal quality and people will paddle out to the peak you are sitting on and ignore all of the other ones.

-d

Posted by: dano at July 30, 2003 04:53 PM

my .o2:

cant salty dogs and techno surfers get along? overpopulation is a problem for everyone..i dont think it was e who placed that kid, sitting backwards half way off his board, kicking his legs, staring blankly at me as im speeding towards him, making straighten out and blow the wave...i would like to blame Blue Crush..and Kelly Slater..and whoever made up the word X-treem..ok maybe ill could blame the internet a bit to but she is so good to me and I would blame Baywatch first..cel phone's aint helping no one, even though i love mine, but i dont have anyone to call and tell the waves are good :(

I vote for theres nothing wrong with naming street names (spots are different as i dont live at those other spots)..i also just look for the texture of the water on the cams and actually never had much interest in where they are placed...people see people out (getting good waves or not), and I think that’s what starts a crowd

on another note i heard if you get attacked by a shark your supposed to punch it in the gills or poke it in the eyes..i prefer to carry a knife on my ankle when im surfing like the guy in point break

Posted by: beagle at July 30, 2003 04:57 PM

hi guys
gotta say that these territory issues scratch the surface of some deeper problems that we see in the lineup. face it - you can whine all you like about crowds and "revealing" firing spots next to densely populated cities but at the end of the day, it's not going to change. none of the aggravation is going away, the kooks (and surfers) will show and annoyingly crowd around you even if the whole beach is full of peaks, and on and on and on. e, i applaud you for your unbridled enthusiasm. there are a thousand ways to spin this issue (as i have read through here today) but your approach is pure, enlightened, and fulla stoke. good on ya!

Posted by: betho at July 30, 2003 04:58 PM

The .gov just means I have loads of time to waste looking at webcams and reading surf blogs.

And I wanted to know the location of the cams so that next time it gets good I can tell my friends in Socal to log on and catch me on the internet.

Posted by: Friend #1 at July 30, 2003 05:03 PM

what she said.

Posted by: jdz at July 30, 2003 05:08 PM

i knew it...definite conspiracy.

Posted by: jdz at July 30, 2003 05:10 PM

Shit!! I have to surf Kron, and theres no report for that shit hole. So I chack all the weather/wind/swell report before I go there or Bo.
Sounds like E surfed south of Ano.
He likes the Linda Mar area for some reason.
I mean how many paople check this site.
If its good people tell other people.
Thats how you find out if its good if there is no "E" report.
Wankers!!

Posted by: pixel pete at July 30, 2003 05:15 PM

I got some super green Kroncites the other day, and work is almost over!!

Posted by: beagle at July 30, 2003 05:27 PM

green Kroncites!

Posted by: e at July 30, 2003 05:36 PM

E! Et Al! Just a quick howdy. This is my 1st internet hookup in almost 2 weeks -- sorry, haven't had to time to read all the posts, interesting as they seem from my quick perusal of the above. Decent util surf on biri, all the usual spots. Hope all is well back home....
R.

Posted by: robme at July 30, 2003 06:29 PM


pff, blake, you haven't gotten the new laser guided verizon model then.

just got outta the water. sesh #2 for the day. some kind of refraction or something (?!) going on, bringing the size up in spots. fun out there. flying groms and pearling logs and wedgey sucky peaks over boils.

ya'll have fun now.

Posted by: grant at July 30, 2003 06:30 PM

Whoah. Yesterday a friend and I were talking at work and we realized that there are a lot of people, myself included, that have been surfing here a while now who aren't "locals" in the line up- perhaps we are the folks that are in part percieved to be crowding line ups? I have been here since '89 and have been surfing and bodysurfing OB since I got here. I am not from here. I grew up in Honolulu but was not born there and even if I was, I'm haole. I go to the beach get some waves and go. My point is that likely none of us are locals and bad vibes in the water suck- maybe the real solution (because now one in eight Americans live in California) is some education and tolerance. This is a very crowded city in a very crowded state in an ever more crowded country. What can we do but slow down and breath? Let the other guy have a wave. We are surfing to have fun aren't we? Testosterone is often a poison, watch your dosage...

Keep up the good work E.

Posted by: goodmorning at July 30, 2003 07:28 PM

haha, last post.. maybe.. I think lindamar/OB should have a surf etiquette signs posted at a couple places around the beaches. The ocean doesn't belong to anyone. People just get pissy when others come out. I admit, I'm not the happiest person when I'm surfing fun waves and more people paddle out, but if the person coming out has a niceness attitude it's all good, I'm MORE than happy to share waves. except for the surfers who drop in, and because they're better than others feel they're privlaged and entitled to any wave they want. All of you know what I'm talking about, I'm sure of it. Some people just don't like to share I guess. I don't mind sharing though. Oh yeah and cell phones.. If you ever see me on my phone in the arking lot, it's because I'm talking to my girlfriend to let her know I'm getting in the water, or to let her know if I had fun or not. Don't judge a book by it's cover ;) Oh yeah, I surfed a "secret" beach today.. It sucked. I guess the nice South was getting hacked by the small increase in NW windswell that began to show last night/this morning. Though not everyone shares the same philosophy on this subject, I'm glad we all at least are able and lucky enough to enjoy the ocean. Some people (some of whom I know) would give so much in their life to be able to share the love we do for the ocean. Thanks E and niceness crew for reminding me not to take what we participate in for granted.

Posted by: Ian at July 30, 2003 10:05 PM

ahh, the debate continues. i blame the current rash of "overcrowding" on two things
1) lack of good sex education in the 70s - everybody was having kids, all them damn kids are learning to surf now
2) wetsuit technology - let's face it, in the past 10 years wetsuits have come a looooong way to where the average person w/ below average circulation can stay reasonably warm in the water.

ok, so maybe both of those are a joke, but if you think about it they both have had some effect on it. the biggest effect - surfing is FUN!

*GASP*

i said it. all you joe hardcore stinkeyes out there, FUN! holy shit, people surf because it's FUN??? say it ain't so.

i say let e post what he feels, it's his forum, if you're gonna hate somebody with such a positive vibe and dedicated following for blowing the cover on your "secret spot" (which, by the way, it's 2003 and we're in california....do you believe in santa claus, too??) than quit reading and let the rest of us go on enjoying e's church of stoke.

i think this debate is fun and all, but i think a more important topic needs discussing: WHO IN THE HELL SOLD MY UPSTAIRS NEIGHBORS THE KARAOKE MACHINE??????? my drum kit is calling my name, it's a duel.

anyways, rock on people, it's almost friday.

Posted by: j at July 30, 2003 11:08 PM

traffic, lineups, supermarket checkouts, cities...although we are for the most part an individualistic society, the subconscious undercurrents state otherwise. fortunately, we as humans have the capacity to think. we can either get pissed off that EVERYBODY seems to be in the supermarket at the same time as us, or we can stand back, relax and enjoy those steamy tabloids we've been itching to read for weeks.
in other words, each of us has the choice to be happy or mad. when put into perspective, is the issue of territory really paramount? global warming, starvation, oppression...are these not the issues to concern ourselves with? the territory we call ours could, by the power of nature, be stripped in a moments time leaving us with nothing but our memories. do we do life justice with memories of anger and aggression? would the time we have now not be best spent in enjoyment and celebration of all that we call "ours"?

thank you e for adding light to all of our lives.

Posted by: james at July 30, 2003 11:20 PM

The issue is far more relevant to some.

If you live at the beach, you probably tend to surf in front of your house a lot. You get a little pissy if crowds throng to your street for no particularly good reason. It's a big beach, there are usually multiple places firing, WHY SEND PEOPLE TO ONE STREET?

The other issue I take is 'the secret spot'. You may think there are none, this being California and all. I surfed, with e, a primo spot under conditions almost no one else thought would work there. There were 4 of us there. e got it - he didn't name the spot (even without debate). That part is obvious - if you can get a primo spot to yourself, why would you ever tell hundreds of people about it?

There are still lots of places that are good to surf and scarcely surfed because they are difficult to get to, or difficult to find out about. Until people invest TIME in finding out, or someone shouts out with a bullhorn, they will stay scarcely surfed. People who have invested their time can reap the benefits of their investment.

time for another UFO session. Sorry, Reality Check, no real details here. The prototypes are still being worked out, and it is a sketchy environment. Did you know that almost all fin systems wholesale between $20 and $30 ? It is an incredibly competitive market, and it moves tens of thousands of units a week.

Posted by: blakestah at July 31, 2003 05:36 AM

I must agree that being specific about surf spots online is a bad, bad thing (including street names at Ocean Beach - which I have been guilty of myself, never again). Of course laying it out about how it was at Pedro (LindaMar) doesn't count - let's face it, there will ALWAYS be AT LEAST 10 - 20 surfers out at Pedro regardless of the conditions.
Like blakestah, I happen to like Mark from Surfpulse - he seems like a good guy. But I hate that Surfpulse cam!! I HATE ALL "wave" cams. We should develop skills at guessing how our favorite spots are gonna break based on the season and current wind, weather and swell info. The anticipation of waiting to see if conditions match your best guess based on your PERSONAL knowledge is all part of the fun!
Like others here, I also think that cell phones contribute to crowded lineups far more than any info to be had on the internet. In fact there is a guy I know, who I will not take surfing with me anymore because he continued to get on his cell phone to tell his friends what conditions were, despite my complaints. BTW, MY cell phone works at both ends of Montara - I've called my wife from there many times to let her know we were gonna be late for supper.
Having said all this, like probably everyone here, I totally dig the vibe of this site and the shear stoke of the man called "e." Please continue to write your reports, my brother! Just - if you happen to surf someplace other than Ocean Beach, or Pedro - don't tell us where it was!

Posted by: Jimmie at July 31, 2003 09:44 AM

i dunno... i understand not sharing the primo scarcely surfed spots, but come on... as even the blakestah said,

"An e's surf report lets one person tell 100 what surf was like once a day at one spot."

ONCE a day at ONE spot. I would guess that most people checking this report are at work (or are otherwise occupied during the day) and are wondering whether or not it's worth it to skip lunch, or head out right after work. They're not making the crack of dawn drive down the coast. They simply wanna know if it's working... anywhere.

If E says he had a good session, I check out my usual haunts, despite whether or not E surfed at Sliz or at VF'ers or went all the way down to Montara.

just 2 cents from a kook.
have fun out there.

Posted by: h.h. at July 31, 2003 10:46 AM

is it that there are so many new people surfing, or that so few (of us newbies) are any good (yet)? that seems to be one of the bigger issues here, especially as I’m realizing how many people know even less than I do (amazing!) about what’s cool and what’s not. it really is better to say “sorry!” (and mean it) when you completely screw-up...

i check this site all day long, every day, and i'm basically here for the stoke. because where you guys go isn't necessarily where i should go. or want to go. or can get before dark. e, and every other regular: you have brought so many good vibes into some otherwise wacko, too-long workdays! and for that, i send my most sincere thanks. you all rock, and i love knowing that you’re out there.

everyone likes to have secret spots, on water or land or wherever. and i say keep them if you think you have them. unless you feel like sharing. it’s ok for things to be hard to find. or learn. i’m trying to learn to read buoys and storm systems right now and it’s freaking hard for me! but the whole niceness vibe seems centered around the idea of living how you want to, and then livin' it up. crowds are a modern-day issue; they aren't going anywhere. if you want uncrowded waves, start planning surf trips to prince william sound instead of hawaii! i have to think it's good if more people are surfing...maybe we'll stop fucking with the ocean so much...

but why people would want to go somewhere just because someone else is there doesn't make any sense to me. i'll take meager bolinas, one-wave-every-25-minutes over almost anything with 60 other people on it. it's the isolationist in me. or maybe the lefty libertarian. or maybe the novice surfer who knows where she sits in the lineup. so to speak. ... this does, however, get more complicated as i venture into the area's more serious surf on a regular basis. ... but if someone truly loves doing something, and is willing to spend the time and take the dives to get good at it, well, i think you have to respect that. i do whenever i run into someone 10-miles out on one of my “secret” trails.

you just have to hope that the people who find your secret spots are good people. or, rather, nicecess people.

i hope to not see a single one of you out there this weekend. =) just kidding. if I do, i’ll say hello. and if you’re going to the mermen tomorrow night, bring yer dancing shoes.

ps: doesn't anyone else have a copy of a certain book about surfing california? i won't name it specially. =) but i'll be darned if he doesn't name and describe just about every break, nook and cranny from here to Bandon. i read it at night so my surf dreams can rotate between more than six locations...

Posted by: friendly at July 31, 2003 11:47 AM

damn. sorry folks. didn't realize i wrote that much. occupational hazard.

Posted by: friendly at July 31, 2003 11:48 AM

where ever you are... go there

if crowds are a issue, there are thousands of miles of beach in this world with thousands of un-surfed waves. maybe if crowds are an issue, you should move. if the naming of spots is a issue, make up new names. regardless, all of us want the perfect wave with our best friends on the shoulder, we all really want good vibes. people just have different ideas of what good vibes are.

just surf. just appreciate the fact that you are able to surf. just smile.

i would like to thank e, and blakestah for their contributions to our little community regardless of where they surf.

cheers.

Posted by: california at July 31, 2003 02:09 PM

The spot looks like Fullers que no

Posted by: at October 26, 2004 09:34 PM

The spot looks like Fullers que no Yeah, looking
again, it's gotta be...

Posted by: at October 26, 2004 09:36 PM

The spot looks like Fullers que no Yeah, looking
again, it's gotta be...

Posted by: at October 26, 2004 09:36 PM

The spot looks like Fullers que no Yeah, looking
again, it's gotta be...

Posted by: at October 26, 2004 09:36 PM

The spot looks like Fullers que no Yeah, looking
again, it's gotta be...

Posted by: at October 26, 2004 09:37 PM

Sorry, got carried away w/ the posting clicker

Posted by: at October 26, 2004 09:40 PM

asshole advertisers get off my wave

Posted by: at October 29, 2004 06:17 PM

poker in the rear

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