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rideable.. but nothing amazing

i opted for snugglification this morning. The surf at OB looks smaller than yesterday.. wind is out of the south and there are people getting rides at the beach right now (surfpulse cam).. Kaiser is going to grimace when i say this but a certain san mateo county wave produced offshore-groomed, tapering lines last night. Some of the better waves i've seen there in a while.. not necessarily earth-shattering or universe-vibrating.. but.. enjoyable. As i approached from the road after work i noticed a darker-than-normal blue-green color to the water. Over the years i've recognized this as the tell-tale signs of a stiff offshore breeze. Many waves backed off or closed out but a few opened up and peeled along beautifully... mist and foam whipping back from the pit. Looking out from the beach an optimistic surfer might anticipate long, multi-turn voyages down feathering, consciousness-hugging faces.. The pessimist might notice a ubiquity of closeouts and mushburgers.. the reality rested somewhere in between.. I eeked into a handful of walled, racing sections but also took off on 10 or 12 closeouts. The conditions were ideal for refining your take-off/bottom-turn/back-to-the-lip-as-quickly-as-possible combinations.

Cold-Ass water!!

might be a repeat today but the buoys are down.. wind is super light at 3mph at OB.. huh.. might be an OB day.. if you're relaxin' in your pjs at home reading this.. debating a surf.. head out to ob and get a couple on the inside..

shout out to Marco - thanks for those CDs!! i've been rocking out to them hard!

shout out to Mike - thanks for the vids!! i'm psyched to see them but also a bit embarrassed about my lackluster surfing steez.. (Mike sent some videos taken of me surfing... let's just say it can be a humbling experience!!)

caveman sent me this pic.. yet another rediculous t-poo macker
what?

Laniakea
aloha

Buoy is not supposed to break 4 ft through the weekend. Fog winds off and on. Clean or mushy small short period swell.

Grab a tanker. Get on it.

Posted by: blakestah at June 4, 2003 10:40 AM

E, no grimace from me today! After surfing for 2.5 hours out there last night, I think I am about surfed out but totally satisfied my surf hunger pains! Damn, my eyes couldn't believe what I was seeing out there. The session started out with bigger but mushier waves. The first few I caught were just gutless offering very little shoudler action. The type where you just fall off your board while trying to change directions. Then I guess the tide pulled just enough to get the waves to shoulder out a bit more and wall up slightly. Nice little sections, never in any fear of the big closeout or anything. Just a lot of paddling to stay in the right spot. Occasional wind shift from sideshore to offshore and then back. Fun as hell! So glad to get a random session in like that. Hope it holds through the day today as well as I would love to get back out there. I EARNED that hot chocolate! Smooth as silk, so good. Glad you rolled out and got some.

No surf for me this a.m. My shoulders were screaming all night. I love when I can't sleep becuase my shoulders hurt too much! Freakin solid! Hope everyone gets some sun and some little dribblers their way today/tomorrow/whenever!

Surf stoked and happy!

Posted by: Kaiser at June 4, 2003 11:01 AM

it sounds like i surfed with you guys last night. i was on a blue/yellow longboard. what a random surprise! didn't even have time to get anyone to surf w/me b/c it was getting dark and i went out there on a fluke. surprisingly long shoulders. so fun! lots of current though and pretty chilly water. also surprising.

Posted by: shak at June 4, 2003 11:19 AM

e,

I can relate to you on witnessing pic/video of your own surfing.

Always eye-opening on what your habits or tendancies are - which you never were aware of. Random arm spams or a hunched stance - but in your own mind you have visions that you have this smooth Curren-like approach.

d loose

Posted by: d loose at June 4, 2003 11:47 AM

mid OB smurf report: it's looking....well...smurfy right now. If you were a smurf it'd be like '100 ft Wednesday'. For us Gargamelle (sp?) types a cruisy longboard might do the trick - e's right, some bigger stuff looks catchable. No one out at the moment, wind isn't toooo bad but it's been changeable this morning. Right now mid OB is seeing some sun, sitting in a donut hole in the fog.

I'm beginning to suspect I'm a junk surfer - ended up canoodling the far north end of the 'Mar - yes at low tide because I am retarded. Tried to avoid it but driving further south proved even smurfier, or wavier but sharkier. 3 people out. Cold, foggy, windy, choppy, and I was a grinning idiot. Figured out one of my many tech. problems, even caught a few nugglets, had a blast. Talked to a longboarder on his way out and he said earlier a.m he'd caught 20 rides. Damn!

Excuse the personal progress report but stoked on goofy little session.Happy surfing whatever you catch...

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at June 4, 2003 11:59 AM

ok, this is officially the dorkiest thing I'll ever say up here...but then we're all sort of dorks for talking about surfing on the internet anyway, so whatever. if anyone besides me can appreciate this, maybe it's you folks.

i haven't surfed for a week now and i have probably another week off, which is a lot of time out of the water for me, but it's all for the sake of my final push to graduate from college. it's mellow because i know after this I've got a lot of surfing coming my way. anyway, the main thing I'm working on is this huge project in computational molecular biology, which is what I study... and so I'm making a "tool"... I sculpt large amounts of data... and it's my first real contribution to "science". So what did I name my tool? ASP. It stands for Assign Swiss-Prot (the name of a database) but heehee boy do I feel like I'm slipping one past science with my obvious surfing reference. scorin' one for the team boys. addin' a little stoke to an otherwise dry world. heheh.

ok, that concludes this dorky broadcast. way to score the mysto offshore session e and Kaiser and co. go surf!

Posted by: jake at June 4, 2003 12:09 PM

e and Kaiser - nice work gettin' some sweetness! gotta admit that, after 3 dry days, i'm a little envious, but definitely stoked for you and your sore shoulders.

jake - it's the small things that bring us joy. nice, stealthy move! ; )

ss - thanks for the amusing posts. nice work vanquishing one of your demons.

Posted by: ck at June 4, 2003 12:45 PM

e - did those videos from Mike have any audio on them? ;) I felt kinda bad afterward, but some habits die hard. I think it would be in everyone's best interests if we worked hard on refining your "backside technique".

Probably I'll catch up with ppl at the brunch - I'll be fairly late, as I have to attend a kiddie gymnastics class until 11:20.

Posted by: blakestah at June 4, 2003 12:54 PM

wait.. blakestah.. are you saying that you've been checkin' out my booty!?? ha ha!! just kidding.. yeah.. no matter how hard i try.. i'm still a kook and decidedly don't look like the maestro curren..

it takes a damn long time to get good at surfing.. real long..

Posted by: e at June 4, 2003 01:04 PM

well.. it's taking ME a long time to get good.. other people can sometimes pick it up real quick.. Supposedly matt archibald was doing airs and carving 360s within his first year of surfing.. if you're a naturally gifted swimmer and athlete, i think you can pick it up quick.. if you're older or wimpier or less graceful.. shit's going to take a while..

Posted by: e at June 4, 2003 01:08 PM

e,

totally agree with you on the "individualality" of the surfing learning curve. The other thing that I think is huge is the mental aspect. I've always found those willing to charge any wave and eat it constantly were those that progressed rapidly.

As I've gotten older, I think I charge less and less. But every now and then, you get that session where you're willing to go for anyting.

d loose

Posted by: d loose at June 4, 2003 01:20 PM

right on d loose..

he who charges reaps the benefits..

... but also suffers the consequences..

the level i'm at now is that i feel confident that i'll make just about any drop, frontside or backside, it's just that i suck at doing much after i make the drop.. i.e. attacking the lip. I think that OB and Lindy teach you to be real solid on steep drops and such but don't really teach down-the-line surfing. i need a nice 3 months in G-land to work on my backside down-the-line attack..

.. back to work.. SURF!!!

anybody have advice? christian, blakestah, jake, matt, other rippers?

Posted by: e at June 4, 2003 01:35 PM

Shak, do you remember someone asking you if you were gonna go on a big set wave and then responding "you have to make up your mind quicker than that?" Of course said with a smile.

If you recall that, then we surfed together for sure. I was the guy on the Merrick. If that was you, I saw you kill one of those bigger waves. Sweet drop, just tore down it going left. Fun waves eh?

Posted by: Kaiser at June 4, 2003 01:40 PM

E - no prob on the vids. Glad you liked them! Thanx for the shout out. See ya in the water...Mike

Posted by: Mike at June 4, 2003 01:58 PM

Hello surf addicts.

Mexico was good to me and my longtime friends from home (NY) who met me there. This was our second trip as a large group and again it went off perfect.

Point surf for anyone who surfs from in between Montauk and the Florida reefs is a real treat. (Last year the top to bottom waves of Playa Hermosa, C.R., ruined a few egos and actually may have set the NY boys back a touch but hey, they have called with tales of Hurrican swells over the years so I thought they could handle it)

Anyway, wanted to get in the water today no matter what, just to get it over with (wettie on/water temp feeling, etc) so it would be all good next time the waves were tasty but the flood tide did not produce on the 4.3 @ 9 from 335.....shoulda hit the beach early for a few sliders but a week of 6 a.m. wake ups (dark in mex until 7 15 a.m.), 2 hr time difference, travel, long surf sessions and probably almost 100 coronas (and 2 margaritas) had me taking my time.

Heard Rockaway (smoke a jay) was fun last night and it sounds like a few of you gys were in the area so you already know.

Hope to meet up with all at Robme's..............

Posted by: tom at June 4, 2003 02:52 PM

re: Jake's usage of ASP. Being the computer geek that I am. ASP in Microsoft-speak stands for Active Server Pages. Just so you know.

Posted by: moss_man at June 4, 2003 03:05 PM

some things that i try to keep in my mind while surfing: go on anything, carry my weight in my hips, be ready and responsive while going down the line as opposed to back / more heavy footed, think of your lateral motion, always do 1 more move as the wave is ending, i.e. go for 1 more lip bash on that closeout, or do some lip trickery as you exit. for aerials, i like the line by christian fletcher to pick the biggest wave and go as fast as you can. i guess i think about keeping my speed. it seems like part of the progression is learning to keep your balance in maneuvers at a faster and faster speed... not needed to bleed speed to gain control. ala curren and ai: always try to stay on rail. always be smooth. more curren lessons: your cutback is a direct line back to the power and your bottom turn is most important. you can probably always generate more speed, you just think you're gonna be outta control... go for that outta control turn a little bit more, and by intentionally going for it, you'll be ready to make it. linkage. it's all about your back foot on top turns, push it through. and practice. think about a turn or 3 that you are going to try on the next wave. would you like to decapitate the lip at all costs, or do you want to connect a big cutback with a roundhouse? i'm just learning to power surf and surf with style... so I accept my suckiness... and know I'm getting better.

well probably not that helpful, but there you go. in the very beginning when I was learning, I knew that getting wet was all that counted... talk to someone who is experienced when you are a kook, and you'll realize how much knowledge you don't have. even just the lingo. spend time in the water, acquire the knowlege of waves breaking on your head, of duckdiving, of reading waves coming in, etc. one more thing: for airs and general power surfing, Josh Palmer's "Flight Academy" is actually pretty sweet.

Posted by: jake at June 4, 2003 03:10 PM

Greetings surf addicts.

Mexico was good to me and my longtime friends from home (NY) who met me there. This was our second trip as a large group and again it went off perfect.

I truly was more stoked watching and cheering these guys grabbing good waves that came there way then I was riding my own. It's cool to see your bros in all of their shakiness after a rough NY winter shove the nose nose down and swing their legs through.......basically for some, placing their bet and hoping the odds are in their favor.

Anyway I re read Allan Weisbeckers book on the trip and like this quote......

"surfing is a trip-better bave your bags packed"-Herbie Fletcher

Hope to meet up with all at Robme's..............

Posted by: tom at June 4, 2003 03:10 PM

sorry for the dbl post.....even though i am on dsl now, seems like the something is wack....processor speed maybe? memory?

machine can not even keep up with my typing and it had been fine for the last 2 years? what gives?

Posted by: tom at June 4, 2003 03:17 PM

tom!! great to have you back.. sounds like you caught some good swell in Mexico.. niiice.. You didn't miss much in the way of epic waves around here.. we had three magic OB mornings a few weeks back.. that's about it..

Jake! thanks for the words bro.. great post. speed is the essence..

yeah.. everybody.. saturday 10-12 at Robme's.. i'll post details tomorrow again..

schweet.

Posted by: e at June 4, 2003 03:18 PM

kaiser-

yeah, that was me. i remember your tan colored channel isle symbols. sorry for wimping out on that one. it looked so good when i said i was going and then when i said no it looked like a close out both ways. i think bob pearson effected my surfing b/c he talked me into getting thin glass for better responsiveness but warned me about getting the board hit by waves bigger than a few feet. i want to take the advice of going on anything but don't want to crack by board doing so.

i saw you throw some good spray a few times. impressive coming at the end of your 2.5 hour session.

shak

Posted by: shak at June 4, 2003 03:50 PM

Jake, sweet shiz there on the surf k-nowledge. I need more of that. I have the worst time trying to make turns sometimes. I need to work on my back leg action I think. I have been trying to get more drive and more spray in my turns but I think my process is all wrong. I find that I bury the rail more times than not and can't recover on the wave. Did it so many times yesterday.

Shak, sweet man! Glad it was you out there. Thats cool. Yeah, your board is bright man! I just met Bob the other day as he is shaping a board for a buddy of mine. That guy is sweet, so old skool. As for "the one that got away", I love bombs! But sometimes its better to let some go. That one would have been a sick drop but not sure what else. Glad you saw some spray-age, I always try to do it but never know if I actually get to toss it. I want gallons like Occy!

Posted by: Kaiser at June 4, 2003 04:05 PM

yeah, bob got me with that neon yellow deck. i said blue and gold not blue and glow in the dark. maybe he puts that on boards so he knows who lives in SC and who doesn't.

Posted by: shak at June 4, 2003 04:19 PM

Sounds about right. Another buddy of mine got a 10'2" fish lure from him. Freakin foam and resin rainbow, neon style.

Posted by: Kaiser at June 4, 2003 04:22 PM

well since I am leagues behind the real rippers you mentioned e... i would be very curious to hear what's going on in their heads. I find my surfing career has been filled with single sentences from other surfers that just make a whole lot of sense, and are things I can keep going back to thinking about.

try thinking about your fins kaiser. every turn you make, you want to push on your fins as hard as you can for maximum spray. of course the trick is doing this and linking to your next move as opposed to ending your ride... trial and error to figure out when you need to let up to make it. oh yeah, i also try to think about my preparation before a turn... how I am approaching it... shifting your body weight one way before you unload it (in rhythm) the other way.

woooooooord. thanks for the headsup moss_man. I just finished my ASP tool.

Posted by: jake at June 4, 2003 04:31 PM

shak
bob pearson has a lot of left over paint from the 80's. and since you mentioned it, my SC buddies that have boards shaped by him don't get the neon treatment...hmmm

Posted by: betho at June 4, 2003 04:32 PM

amazon wave

http://www.solas.cc/video/clips/amazon.wmv

Posted by: e at June 4, 2003 05:10 PM

Hey...does anyone have any feedback with respect to the Merrick M13 model??? It's kind of a retro/hybrid shape. I am thinking about getting one, or something similar. Kind of freaking me out to tell you the truth. Right know I ride either a 6'10" Merrick or a 7'0" Nev depending on how I feel; both are "traditional" thruster shortboards. But for some reason I have been feeling a desire to surf something a little different. More carvy/retro/pintail/sumpin sumpin...if that makes any sense. Am I getting old? Don't want to completely lose the shortboard feel though. Is this asking too much? Thoughts, comments anyone?

grazie

Posted by: jdz at June 4, 2003 05:42 PM

Oh my gawddddd!! Sick video of the tidal bore (sp) in the Amazon!! And it's a right. I would be in Heaven...at least until the piranha, crocs or malaria got me.

Posted by: jdz at June 4, 2003 05:47 PM

Steak Dinner!

Word spreads quickly... thanks for the props on niceness. :) Heading back east anytime soon?

JIM

Posted by: bo'rowe at June 4, 2003 05:56 PM

Have any of you guys surfed/seen/heard about people longboarding the wake behind the ferry boat? I'm sure most of us have considered it, just beacuse it really does look like a perfect little right or left, but in reality, wondering if it's at all possible.. not getting fined, choking on exhaust, or tiring out in the middle of the bay...
If anyone wants to charge it, I'll go with you.

hoping to make it to Robme's chill sesh - put all these surfers faces to the niceness names... cool.

Posted by: eightwest at June 4, 2003 06:18 PM

eightwest...I used to ride the ferry and have witnessed people longboarding the wake. Thought about trying it as well but just never got around to it. You have to plan it around a really low tide and it has to be one of the V-hull boats. I don't think the cats put off as much wake. I don't think there are any legal ramifications...but really don't know. We should check it sometime.

Did you get to cron today? Fun in the morning.

Posted by: jdz at June 4, 2003 06:27 PM

eightwest -- I think Cloude used to surf or watched folks surf the wake of the boat as it came into Larkspur. Is that the ferry you talking about?

Posted by: robme at June 4, 2003 06:49 PM

jdz....sick. nice one on the details. low tide and a V hull. just like a surf spot. I'm down to hit it one day this summer for sure. didn't get cron today. it was fun this morning? sweeet. be there tomorrow.
Robme.....yeah the larkspur ferry. definite video material.
maybe we could get a niceness surf video project going. that would be fun,
hope to see you at your pad....

adios

Posted by: eightwest at June 4, 2003 11:48 PM

eightwest - don't know about down here, but back in seattle i'd seen pics of Ricky Young and others riding the ferries that used to run on lake union/lake washington. i tried once behind a 35' chris craft...not quite the same, but it IS rideable....

jdz - have you looked at the harbour spherical revolver? fun board if you're looking for something different in your quiver.

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Posted by: gansus at January 21, 2005 08:23 AM
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