E's Surf Report: Royal smack-down at OB

Cruised the beach around 7.. looked big but not too big..
unruly but not too unruly..
jumbled but not too jumbled..
Down at second lot sloat things looked almost smooth and inviting.. From the parking lot i was guessing head-high and a half, with lulls between sets.. there wasn't anybody out but that didn't really phase me. I figured most peeps assumed today's conditions to be like days past.
suit up and paddle out.. and paddle.. and paddle.. and duckdive.. and paddle.. and paddle.. and take 10 waves on the head.. and throb through repetitive ice-cream headaches.. and paddle.. and paddle... and duckdive.. and then float.. resting.. then take a few more on the head.. ditching my board on a huge one and diving as deep as possible.. getting sucked back and then ragdolled toward the beach for 50 yards.. contemplate bailing.. but get back on my board and start the never-ending paddle again.. at this point it feels like i'm in some sort of aquatic war-zone. Huge, voluminous double-overhead, sucking bombs detonating with little rhyme or reason all over the friggin place.. take more on the head.. realize that i'm way way way way out there at this point, that i've already drifted past 1rst lot sloat.. and i'm still not to the lineup.. probably been paddling for 25 minutes at this point.. FIIIINNNAAALLLYYY make it out and chill out for a sec.. Nobody else around.. thunderous, cacophonous rumblings pounding all around.. water-surface pretty glassy way outside.. catch a medium-sized right.. probably about a 7ft face.. race down.. botton turn.. back up and over the top before the whole thing sucks-out and closes. waiting and waiting for another wave.. Witnessing fucking huge cauldrons of white-water and ugly, thick, petrifying hell-barrels.. trying my darndest to avoid the beasts while still being in position to catch a good one if it comes.. then i see this gigantic double-overhead wall coming right at me.. gonna break on my head.. fuuuuck.. ditch my board and dive as deep as i can.. hear the crash from under water.. feel it suck me back up and all around.. mentally work through the Robme-holddown-count-slowly-relaxation technique.. the thing holds me down for a while but then spits me up.. annoying head-bounce on the bottom of board as i surface.. now i'm in the impact zone.. take another on the head.. catch the white-water of a random little guy.. but then get a little ride on the reform.. pounded by the shorepound on my way in.. arrhhg.. finally make it to the beach.. one hour of fifteen minutes.. 2 rides.. many beatings.. FUN!!!

dano sent these absolutely incredible pics of Santa Cruz during the current south swell.. farrkk!!
damn

damn

Rick Griffin is the man

wedge death

this guy is great!
frank at the wheel