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junky surf

OB looks junky and large this morning.. but.. i'm out-of the loop anyway with a nasty sore-throat and nagging fever.. SUCKS!!!! Friday afternoon came last week, bringing promise of a adventure-filled weekend.. Post-work happy-hour-session with coworkers turned into a party at House of Nanking.. turned into drinking at friends place.. turned into, "damn, my throat hurts.." turned into waking on saturday morning hurting.. then sleeping all weekend.. trying to recover.. feeling that frustrating internal sickness and uneasiness.

Saturday cleaned up at the beach at around 1. I watched many a snap, gouge and cuttie from the wall at VFWs. but then the wind picked back in the afternoon and junked it up again.. SF buoy at 7ft 17seconds right now.. 0ft low tide at 6pm... wind annoyingly coming from the west.. probably surf somewhere.. but.. most likely not at the bay area beachbreaks..

wish i had some lubricious tales from the weekend.. but.. the only scintillating experiences i enjoyed where either imaginary or culled from the words of other minds.... well... i did spend about 30 minutes in the presence of about 20+ freshly stylized, funkadelic, beautiful women.. yesterday i went to a "sample sale" near the civic center, where 15 or so local clothing designers set up booths with their clothing, also had dj playing and free organic/shade-grown/fair-trade/etc. food. The exterior me kind-of poked around looking at the clothing while the interior me marvelled, slack-jawwed and stunned, at the style, beauty and charisma of these women.. damn.. then i went outside and coughed up this huge, fever-induced loogy that felt soo good! then home to bed..

Kaiser sent these pics in..

a nice left at lindy
not bad for lindy

another attractive lindy left
not bad for lindy


ahh.. wish i was this guy..

Hey E -

Sucks that your sick! Get better soon buddy!! I'm charging today.... I don't know why, but I'm making an impromptu trip to Carmel, and I'll work my way back North from there if I have to.

you'll be back in the water soon e! for now, its vids and dreams I guess.


Posted by: jake at March 3, 2003 10:37 AM

E, sucks on the cough and fever man! As for the surf, didn't think you missed much but I am getting some word thru the grapevine that OB was actually surfable both Sat. and Sun.

I got up Sat. stoked to surf but the winds in the morning were still onshore and only flipped for a few hours. Stoke was lost.

However, my buddy hooked up a new board and we headed out on Sunday and finally stopped at a spot south of the HMB Jetty. After watching for about 10 minutes, we convinced ourselves to head out as OB was big, Lindy was crowded and the Jetty was the Jetty. As soon as we hit water, the sets just marched in. I guess it was the 20 sec. energy that just showed up and damn it was powerful. We finally got out, I waited about 2 minutes, turn on one wave, it jacked up, caught it in going straight as I was taken over by whitewater, couldn't get back out. Buddy is caught in the soup, we bag it!

Still in the half suited mode, we jump in the car and drive to Lindy for more sunshine and hopefully some waves. As the puddles accumulate under our booties in the car, we make our way to Mailbu, errr Lindy, with 500 other "surfers" and spongers and moms and kids and dogs (you get the idea). Get to the beach, paddle out, and the same shit happens. Bombs roll in, beach can't handle it and its closeout city. In between sets, some shoulders but nothing great. Witness a guy make about a 10' drop in the extreme north end by the rock and get absolutely worked. Comes up with a broken leash and a nice swim to shore to get his board. We get stuck inside, and wash up on shore in the North end near a decapitated seal that looked like a "pot-sticker for a whitey" as my buddy states. Thing totally ripped open and floudering in the shorebreak just waiting to be dipped in some soy sauce.

2 sessions, both sucked. Headless seal awaiting fate, a lot of people out. However, it was sunny and it was nice to be outside.

There you have it. Oh yeah, blown out this morning, no sunshine, but we have swell! One helmet-wearing-dude braving it at Lindy by himself.

Thats all I got for ya.


- Next time you need ding repair and you are lazy, check this stuff out, it works wonders: http://www.dingleberriessurf.com/pages/1/index.htm

Posted by: Kaiser at March 3, 2003 11:12 AM

thanks jake.. hope you score some at Lover's point or the other carmel-area spots.. let us know what you find.. i've never been there for surf.. though i've always wanted to..

anybody get any tasty waves this weekend?

Posted by: e at March 3, 2003 11:15 AM

The water at Lindy looked pretty dirty yesterday (got in, nothing special at all). My sinuses are a mess this morning, and I'm thinking something foul ended up inside my cranium. I wonder if your ailment had a similar genesis.
Does anyone know the Lindy long-haired Asian guy's actual name? Someone should find out or at least propose a better nickname. I've traded waves with him many a time and his vibe is always very very cool. He also seems to know where the best part of Lindy is on any given day.

Posted by: redworm at March 3, 2003 11:22 AM


Don't know his name but I think he is a relative of the dude that owns Solbright Surf Shop or what not. Great guy. Surfed with him twice last week, including Friday when I got some waves with E. He sold me some wax at Solbright a while ago as well.

Posted by: Kaiser at March 3, 2003 11:32 AM

I don't know WHAT was going on at OB yesterday but when I first checked, it looked average size, not that great, but when I got out, about every 30 minutes or so, a monster set would roll through, breaking like 50 yards outside of everyone. And not just 2 or 3 wave sets, like 8 waves, and the second 5 like twice as big as the first 3. I was sitting there chatting with Christian about some Aussie he saw in Sri Lanka get knifed up for dropping in on the locals, and suddenly this set rears up, and after making it over the first couple, I got hit harder than I got hit all winter by this massive top to bottom monster. I hesitate to say how big it was, since I always exagerate. (Please someone write in a say there were some big sets lest I think I've lost my moxie.) Anyway, I finally did catch one beauty that made it worth while. Thank god I took my 7'5 -- a complete lark, first time all winter, since most folks in the lineup were saying they were undergunned.

Posted by: robme at March 3, 2003 11:34 AM

Interesting article in the Chronicle today where Barry Zito (A's pitching ace) talks about taking a surf trip to Tavarua in the off-season with Rusty Preisendorferm, Ryan Klesko, and Brent Mayne. Written, of course, by Bruce Jenkins.


Posted by: mwsf at March 3, 2003 11:46 AM

Hilarious reading provided by Friday’s info on the LM local. He is actually an artist who was written up in the Surfer's Journal. I've never seen a person check the surf more and surf less than this guy. Tries to lay on the thickest local vibe (it's Linda Mar for Christ sake), and always talks shit in the water. A few years ago I'm on the second or third session of my life, longboarding the south end of Linda Mar on a pretty good afternoon. It's me and a few friends helping to teach me how to surf, and LM-Local is on the egg board. Anyways, I paddle into a left and blow the takeoff. I don't even get to my feet and basically boogie board the wave on a 9’6 longboard. After the wave, I give the sheepish look to my right and realize that I have not only pulled off an all-star kook maneuver, but I've spiced it up by snaking our egged-up hero who was trailing me the entire time.

Obviously the guy is furious, but the whole thing was so outrageously over the top that I think he locked up. I paddled back over to him and apologized and he was pretty chill about the whole thing. But after that (and for the next 250 times I saw him in the parking lot) I got the stink eye and assumed it was due to events described above. I've talked to him a couple times in the lot - asked him how he liked surfing the egg board which threw him for a loop, and told him that I thought the article in the Surfer's Journal was killer (his paintings are pretty sick). I'm sure deep down the guy is ok but why get so disgusted by fellow surfers and then continue to surf and localize the mecca of overcrowded beginner surf spots?

Long-haired Asian dude is a bro - I forget his name but he's not related to the Sonlight peeps... just works there part-time.

Posted by: BZ at March 3, 2003 11:59 AM

robme.. sounds like OB raged yesterday.. siick..
redworm... not sure if my illness is lindy-related.. though i did surf there 5 times last week.. that's quite a bit of lindy-filth digested into my system.. i'm feeling a little better today.. probably will surf again on wed. morning... hopefully..

anybody who is localizing the south-end of lindy has no clue. that's just funny..


ian! any slo highlights? mardi gras down there?

Posted by: e at March 3, 2003 12:08 PM

Hazards was going off this weekend. Surfed it Saturday morning. I'd never been, and I kenw the localism was just over the top, so I was reluctant to go out. But my friend surfs there a lot, so I was a little less on the edge. We made the long (beautiful) walk, which has TONS of poison oak, and arrived at the insanely beautiful beach. Who ever it was that said all the locals are 40-50 year old carpenters, etc. hit the nail on the head. For a "secret" spot, it sure as hell was crowded. Probably 20 guys in the water, 8-10 on the beach getting un/dressed. I made sure not to make eye contact with anyone, kept to myself and spoke softly to my two friends in the water, just keeping a low profile. I guess the chief local "Whitey" was out, and was screaming his vocal chords out at some guy who snaked him, even though he burned someone else. Anyway, water was so clear.. I could see the rocky bottom. Healthy lefts and rights rolled through. I'd say it was a juicy 6-8, very clean, very quick/steep drops, a little mushy, long rides, long paddles. The thing I like best about the waves there, was they never broke in the exact same spot, thus everyone got their share of waves. What I didn't like, was the sketchy sections which presented themselves. There was one specific one, I tried making it around the sections, and got stuck in the flats and the white water just WORKED me... boneyard. I'm very lucky I didn't hit the bottom. I surfed the left from 9-12, and got 2 rights in. I got some nice carves to snaps in, a, a long floater on a right (which resulted in me being boneyarded again) All in all, a beautiful weekend. Good waves, a lot of partying (mardi gras) and some quality time with my girl. Great times.

Posted by: Ian at March 3, 2003 12:26 PM

haha E, I must have been typing that the same time you were. funny. Wish you could have gone, hope you feel better bro.

Posted by: Ian at March 3, 2003 12:28 PM

i was in SLO this weekend as well. for the 2nd straight year they moved the parade from Saturday night to Sunday afternoon, drastically cutting down on the "Girls Gone Wild" action. it was still pretty crazy both Sat and Sun however. long lines for the bars and lots of Cal Poly hotties cruising the streets. unfortunately the drunk fratboy factor was quite high as well.

i also scored some fun surf at a beachbreak south of pismo that will remain nameless. pismo north side lefts were pretty decent too.

speaking of barry zito...
i went to UCSB with him my freshman year. didn't know him back then but i went to a college friend's party in SF a few months ago and there he was sitting on the couch with some hot blond telling stories about his Tavarua trip. the guy is actually extremely cool and friendly with no big ego and a really wacky sense of humor. the first ever surfing Cy Young winner. they say he has the best curveball since Koufax. now if only the A's could just stop choking in the postseason...

Posted by: bbr at March 3, 2003 12:34 PM

Saw the infamous 4 Mile Psycho this weekend. What a loser. That orange faced spud doesn't even rip, just yells at people all day and paddles like a beginner. Saw him cut somebody off, then look back over his shoulder and yell "off my wave kook!". Bug, it doesn't matter.

Posted by: Marco Esquandoles at March 3, 2003 12:34 PM

I'm waiting for someone to come back after a weekend session at 4mile after calling the 4 Mile Psycho "Assfinger" to see what kind of response it gets out of him. Isn't that one of his nicknames?

Posted by: be at March 3, 2003 12:51 PM

Ian! nice work scoring hazards.. i thought it might be super crowded with the mardi gras and everything.. hopefully i'll feel better by next weekend and be able to surf it.. hard..

marco esquandoles! welcome.. set the gearshift into the high gear of your soul, my brotha! crazy that you had a 4-mile-psycho/dwayne/assfinger siting.. I think that i'm going to try to arrange an interview with that fella.. get to the bottom of his psychotic disposition..

bbr - who's barry zito?

Posted by: e at March 3, 2003 12:54 PM

He's the ace of the Oakland A's pitching staff. Check the link that "mwsf" posted above about his trip to Tavarua by Bruce Jenkins.

Posted by: bbr at March 3, 2003 01:07 PM

hit the jetty sunday. head high or so, overhead on the longer period sets rolling in from time to time.

"bollinger" not in effect. pleasant time had by all. lot of familiar faces from further north were in the lineup. lot of lip bashing & cutting going on. got my share and called it when the winds came up.

kelly / dunes were blown by the time we checked it, was probably good earlier in the day tho'.

stopped in to cowboy surf for some wax and found a copy of the winter issue of water. looks pretty cool, occupying some space in between TSJ and the grom surfporn mags (surfer/ing etc).

e, you think you got sick from goin' out after the rains last week? after the first time i got sick from LM years ago, i started popping antibiotics every time i surf after a storm.. usuallly amoxycillin or cephalexin, seems to work out ok..

Posted by: grant at March 3, 2003 01:54 PM


So true, so true. Credit or Debt, it just doesn't matter...

Posted by: Bug at March 3, 2003 03:33 PM

Sunday... what a day.

I had the same thing happen to me as happened to Kaiser and Robme (weird thing is that I saw a dead seal on the beach when I got out too).

Anyway, check the Monterey Buoy at 7:00 am before leaving, and it's like 7 feet at 13 seconds, good for some fun at the exposed spots.

Check the action from the cliff, and spot a right that has been working, but is now kind of sectioning out... but still doable on the right wave.

Head out with my friend, and just as we get out we get SHELLED. Almost complete beach-wide closeout and breaking in what little channel there was. Get out further... paddle for a couple of waves and get bounced out by the huge backwash even though we were pretty far out. Decide to head out further just to get away from the backwash.

OMG, then we really get shelled. Wave after wave of distruction, breaking way too far out to make it over. F'-this, I say and we catch some whitewater in... completely skunked.

Still in our dripping wet wetsuits, we head to a less exposed beach... looks mellow, no problem paddle, nice channel, waves not so good, but whatever... paddle out, and it starts all over again. Just get hammered, pounded and worked. To make matters worse, the waves that you could actually catch were too gutless to get into. Get pounded some more and decide to head in.

Getting out, I get trapped in this rip and can't paddle sideways out of it 'cause fishermen on beach have lines everywhere. Jezz, it takes me like 10 minutes to get to shore with the rip and the visious shore pound making it really tough.

Get out, finally, and call it a complete skunk session.

Get home, check the buoy reading for 8:00 am and it's almost 9 feet at 20 seconds. DOH!


Posted by: dano at March 3, 2003 04:21 PM

robme - I'll vouch. I was out at vfw's yesterday afternoon and got my ass kicked by a mean set. I had sat in the parking lot around 11:30 and watched a for a while. Didn't see much action so decided to head south. Finally turned around at the jetty and drove all the way back to vfw's. Looked fun and managable so suited up around 1:15. The paddle out wasn't bad. Saw a few surfers on the outer sandbars but stayed inside and tried to get position. Scratched for a few but the waves kept on rolling and reforming until they jacked on the inside. 30 minutes into the session, saw the lines and started to paddle. Solid +2xhead set broke on the outside bar and cleaned everyone up. Just got hammered by the walls of whitewater. Then I realized that I was way inside. Started paddling back out with another surfer next to me - we almost make it out - then another set rolls in Took the first on my head and ripped the board right out of my hands. The other surfer chucks board and dives. Duck dive the 2nd. 3rd rips the board out again. Crap. Duck dive the 4th. Catch a breath. Too far inside now. Getting pummeled by the inside. Crap. Grab board and hold tight for the ride back to the beach.

Summary: 30 minutes. No rides. OB ass kicking.

Posted by: caveman at March 3, 2003 05:47 PM

the asian dude is named uh-skay at LM.

heard sat was good but got on it late i was told. but it was a session, faces were clean but it was a constant paddle at vfw's.

returned there late morn on sunday. robme I was out with christian and others. too bad i didnt see you. some called it 10 foot on sets...

but everyone yesterday had a minimal wave count but it looked like it was going to come together and be ON but it was not to be....maybe the bottoms were off shaped or the tide was too full ot and then the winds came too soon.....

Ended up at the Lane again today but I didnt do much.

My travel partner Sam got a bunch of center peak lefts and another OB surfer Sunil I saw on the last of his session off the middle...

Posted by: tom at March 3, 2003 06:15 PM

Yo - I just want to say hell yeah to all the phishy vibes rolling on this board. stoked to see it, good shit. I had an anti-flow day today, I will report on the tragedies tomorrow morning, for now, just gonna go rip a tube and jam. good to hear about everyone's big and gnarley weekend, a ton of charging was reported.

oh, to be prince caspian, and float upon the waves. indeed!

Posted by: jake at March 3, 2003 07:54 PM

Great to hear all the commentary on the weekend waves....unfortunately I have been out of the water for about 2 weeks due to ear issues. In a nutshell...have been having weird high-pitched whining/whistling in both ears. The right ear has actually been somewhat tender to the touch at times, and have noticed some hearing loss in both ears. At this point the wife is getting a little aggro hearing me say "what?" all the time. Started wearing earplugs about two months ago, but things have not gotten much better. Go to the Doc, she takes one look in my right ear and says, "Wow, I've never seen a bone growths this pronounced" or something like that. Next step, go to see the specialist. Moral of the story...if you think you are having any ear issues start wearing your earplugs. I bagged them for the last couple of years because I didn't like surfing with them in for some reason. All I gotta say is I wish I had worn them. I will chime in when I actually talk to the ENT specialist to let anyone who is interested know what the prognosis is. In the meantime WEAR YOUR FRIGGIN PLUGS!

Posted by: JDZ at March 3, 2003 09:02 PM

Damn! Apologies for the uber-negative post. Feeling like fish out of water and doing a little venting I guess.

E...keep up the posts and get well...helps keep us all going.


Posted by: JDZ at March 3, 2003 09:12 PM

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