junky.. but.. randomly fun
wind blowing due onshore, out of the west at 10mph.. the swell chunky and consequencial.. OB looking decidedly unfriendly.. I didn't even hesitate before careening down to Pacifica.. but.. even uglier down there.. and i was salivating for waves after not surfing yesterday.. soo.. i high-tailed it back to Santiago st., pulled over and suited up without even giving the conditions a second look.. I surfed it solo for about 50 minutes. It was big and mean and junky and wild.. but.. as usual with junky OB.. sections were presenting themselves.. cavernous lefts and rights would jack up and roar along. I kinda tweaked my neck a little while getting snapped back during a last-second duckdive, but otherwise i enjoyed about 7 or 8 high-speed, racy wall-rides. It was great surfing OB totally alone.. just you and mother ocean out there.. no spectators, no hecklers, no fellow surfers, no beach walkers.. Just you and the waves.. if you pull back on one.. nobody is going to say anything except your own conscious... speaking of which.. i could have taken off on this one overhead, hollowing left.. i was paddling into it and then just pulled back.. thinking the whole monster was going to slam shut.. but.. ya know.. i should have gone..
anyway.. i'll be out of town until monday night.. soo.. have fun slurfin' or snowboardin' or lovin' or kickin' it or whatever it is that makes you happy!
note to dudes.. the ladies start FEELIN IT come valentines day.. it was in the air yesterday for the ladies around me. I don't want to get into details, but let's just say that the chill/funky/cuties were expressing more curiosity yesterday than is normal.. hmmm... and i'm not complainin'!!
once again fellas.. treat your ladies right... spoil your ladies. give them love!
this is a wave i surfed in indo... i need to go back!!!
braden dias at pipe
C submitted this mystery nor-cal wave