this morning was so weird.. Lerm and i pulled up to Sloat before the sun peeked out and it looked junky out there, but kind-of peaceful.. the SF buoy read 9ft 14sec this morning but to our groggy eyes it didn't look that huge or menacing.. We contemplated checking Rockaway/Lindy but then decided to just surf the Beach.. We drove north in the misty/dark/morbid morning and suited up at the south end of VFWs. It still was still pretty dark.. and the conditions looked decidedly uninviting.. but we saw what we thought was an outside peak working. We stretched a bit on the beach... then started paddling... and paddling... and paddling... and duckdiving... and duckdiving.. and paddling.. fuuuck! ... and paddling.. and paddling... and groaning.. and duckdiving.. and getting ripped from my board mid-duck-dive... and paddling... almost out to the lineup and the waves were just exploding and pounding and swirling and acting like god's washing machine... "man, this kinda sucks" i though.. but i just kept paddling because i wanted to make it outside.. After about 25 minutes of paddling i just happened to look back over my shoulder and i realized we were in line with that big green mountain/hill where the old sutro mansion was.. past the sea-wall.. fuck.. WE'RE PAST THE SEAWALL!! and we were pretty far out.. and not outside yet.. and getting sucked toward seal rock FAST! At that point i knew it was time to abort the mission. i just had to somehow get Lerm's attention, because i wasn't sure if he realized we were so far north.. I yelled at him for a while and finally signalled to him.. meanwhile i'm getting pounded by wave after wave and i'm treading water, off my board, with a ringing ice-cream headache.. but.. i flagged him down and we came in.. i caught a little bullshit ride on my way in just to stand up one time.. Lerm came in all wild-eyed.. he though i had seen a shark and gone in. he didn't even realize that we were almost on top of seal rock.. He was like, "Fuuuuck" when it dawned on him.. It was pretty scary.. we really could have been sucked around this morning.. What's strange is that the tide was falling.. soo.. under normal circumstances the current at OB would be flowing south.. right?? but this morning we got whipped north.. soo.. if we had gotten pulled past seal rock, i don't think we would have been sucked toward the bay, as the tide was going out.. we might have been pushed out to sea with the rest of the bay water?? out toward potato patch?? i don't know... but.. when we got back to the car the sky had lightened a bit a we could finally see the conditions for what they were.. Big, uber-messy, jumbled and thick.. with bumps and grooves of swell extending out toward the horizon.. there is no way we would have paddled out in that had we known what it really looked like..
anyway.. that's the deal.. big and messy at OB.. not really surfable..
check out this barrel sequence from Rivera st. on sunday!! i can't believe i was snowboarding while THIS was going down!!! i SUCK!!!
check this out for more of Paul's sick photos from sunday
if you use your imagination there is another spot that is probably working quite well right about now (9:40)...
Kelly's local Brian Biggs attempted to scale and then snowboard down the sourthermost 14,000 ft. peak in the lower 48.. check it out..
also.. read this interview with the head of "wildcoast"... it looks like all those threatened point breaks in baja mights be saved!!