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this morning was so weird.. Lerm and i pulled up to Sloat before the sun peeked out and it looked junky out there, but kind-of peaceful.. the SF buoy read 9ft 14sec this morning but to our groggy eyes it didn't look that huge or menacing.. We contemplated checking Rockaway/Lindy but then decided to just surf the Beach.. We drove north in the misty/dark/morbid morning and suited up at the south end of VFWs. It still was still pretty dark.. and the conditions looked decidedly uninviting.. but we saw what we thought was an outside peak working. We stretched a bit on the beach... then started paddling... and paddling... and paddling... and duckdiving... and duckdiving.. and paddling.. fuuuck! ... and paddling.. and paddling... and groaning.. and duckdiving.. and getting ripped from my board mid-duck-dive... and paddling... almost out to the lineup and the waves were just exploding and pounding and swirling and acting like god's washing machine... "man, this kinda sucks" i though.. but i just kept paddling because i wanted to make it outside.. After about 25 minutes of paddling i just happened to look back over my shoulder and i realized we were in line with that big green mountain/hill where the old sutro mansion was.. past the sea-wall.. fuck.. WE'RE PAST THE SEAWALL!! and we were pretty far out.. and not outside yet.. and getting sucked toward seal rock FAST! At that point i knew it was time to abort the mission. i just had to somehow get Lerm's attention, because i wasn't sure if he realized we were so far north.. I yelled at him for a while and finally signalled to him.. meanwhile i'm getting pounded by wave after wave and i'm treading water, off my board, with a ringing ice-cream headache.. but.. i flagged him down and we came in.. i caught a little bullshit ride on my way in just to stand up one time.. Lerm came in all wild-eyed.. he though i had seen a shark and gone in. he didn't even realize that we were almost on top of seal rock.. He was like, "Fuuuuck" when it dawned on him.. It was pretty scary.. we really could have been sucked around this morning.. What's strange is that the tide was falling.. soo.. under normal circumstances the current at OB would be flowing south.. right?? but this morning we got whipped north.. soo.. if we had gotten pulled past seal rock, i don't think we would have been sucked toward the bay, as the tide was going out.. we might have been pushed out to sea with the rest of the bay water?? out toward potato patch?? i don't know... but.. when we got back to the car the sky had lightened a bit a we could finally see the conditions for what they were.. Big, uber-messy, jumbled and thick.. with bumps and grooves of swell extending out toward the horizon.. there is no way we would have paddled out in that had we known what it really looked like..

anyway.. that's the deal.. big and messy at OB.. not really surfable..

check out this barrel sequence from Rivera st. on sunday!! i can't believe i was snowboarding while THIS was going down!!! i SUCK!!!
rivera barrel

check this out for more of Paul's sick photos from sunday

if you use your imagination there is another spot that is probably working quite well right about now (9:40)...

peace y'all.

Kelly's local Brian Biggs attempted to scale and then snowboard down the sourthermost 14,000 ft. peak in the lower 48.. check it out..

also.. read this interview with the head of "wildcoast"... it looks like all those threatened point breaks in baja mights be saved!!


yah, currents can run contra to the tidal flow, I notice. Just the other day I was getting pulled well north at Judah as we quickly headed from a 6.6 to a -1.1 low; the longshore currents and rips seem to dictate the near-shore action in some spots. Seal Rock area has some very odd cross-currents in it -- I once got pulled into an eddy that soon turned into a whirlpool that literally pulled me under. It was like a mini lquid-tornado, I had to escape the vortex in order to reach the surface; that happened about 4 years ago and it royally freaked me out b/c it pulled me (with board) straight down about 10 feet before it let me up -- and no one was around to help.

Anyway, yeah, it was the first weekend I can think of in a long time where people who went to Tahoe were actually *bummed* upon finding out what they missed at OB. She served up the sweetness for 2 days, 7 hours of double-sessions were had by me and friends, both days. I was waterlogged and noodle-armed.

Posted by: Douglas at January 23, 2003 12:58 PM

E, Lerm: Sick story. It's scary once you get past the seawall 'cuz not enough waves break in there to ride the whitewater back. Also, I have noticed that when this sort of stuff happens, once you are at about Cabrillo St and drifting fast N across that channel that often separates Cabrillo from Kelly's, you are pretty much fuct. And tide ebbing -- where would you have ended up?!!

I think Douglas is right, it is my understanding that the near-shore current can eddy against the regular flow, but it gets set up kind of chaotically, which is to say, it isn't predictable. I haven't experienced a vortex though. Yikes!

Posted by: robme at January 23, 2003 01:12 PM

douglas! crazy vortex story! geez! i believe you.. the ocean does some strange things, especially around here.. every thing is so macro-sized in Nor-Cal (mountains, ocean, cliffs, trees, sky, ganja, etc.), makes our human stature seem very small.

interesting near-shore/far-shore interaction theory.. i've seen that type of activity before.. hmmm...

anyway.. i'm glad that i'm not still trying to paddle in right now!!! ha!! Lerm commented that it would have been humourous had we eventually swam to shore somewhere up in marin county!

i'm about to head to lunch for a burrito.. read a little of "Notes and Tones - musician to musician interviews"... it's a sick book if you're into jazz and the late-60's early-70's jazz scene in NYC.. interviews with Miles, Thelonious Monk, Don Cherry, etc..

here's a quote from the miles interview..

"Do you have any particular hobbies?"

"Making fun of white folks on television. That's my main hobby."

pretty hard-core!


Posted by: e at January 23, 2003 01:27 PM

Just busted out of the Central Valley penal colony. Good to see the ocean again, but no time for surfing today.

Denial. Got a little dose of that on Monday because I was dumb enough to position myself too far inside 'cause I hate waiting around for the "right" wave. As the beach-wide closeout set approached I thought, "Paddle and get a top-to-bottom lip on the head or stay put and deal with the whitewater." Decided for the latter, and, of course, the set was consistent enough to blast me back to the shorebreak, while I foolishly tried to paddle against it. I love it when you take a break from paddling for all your worth to turn around and see how close to the shore you are and then realize how rediculous you must look.

The best part is that I did the same thing like 15 minutes later. How does it go... 'fool me twice, shame on me?'

Here's my favorite Miles story...

In 1987 the jazz trumpeter and group leader Miles Davis attended a White House reception in honor of Ray Charles with his wife at the time, the actress Cicely Tyson. When a woman asked him what he had done to be invited, he answered: ''Well, I've changed music four or five times. . . . What have you done of any importance other than be white?''


Posted by: dano at January 23, 2003 03:42 PM

E: Excellent work on this site.

I grew up sailing/surfing in SF and have had a variety of experiences chalked up to the vagaries of the eddy. We always used to hug either Baker or Point Diablo when coming into the gate against the tide. We would hit some mad eddies and just cook in the dark lea of aptly named Diablo.

I would guess that you would have continued around the corner with the eddy, hugging the shore (but not too close!) and been forced to make a very sketchy landing around Land's End in amongst the graveyard of several wrecks. I have often wondered how I would deal with that very scenario.

Did you see that photo of Seal Rock form the other day?

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