E's Surf Report: windy, rainy, huge

Dude, that's awesome. Beautiful.

Posted by: robme at December 13, 2002 10:49 AM

christian.. for a second there.. i thought you actually went out.. and i was all second guessing myself, thinking.. damn.. maybe i could have scored surf today.. ha!!

the outlook for OB over the next week is bleak, at best.. which sucks for me because i'm leaving for philly on the 19th.. not to return to the 3rd!! i'm psyched to go back there but i'm going to be JONESING soooo hard for surf i'm not sure i'll be able to deal.. hopefully i'll get some waves in Jersey land but it's going to be soooo damn cold.. it will be rough..

e

Posted by: e at December 13, 2002 11:48 AM

There is no mistaking the 4Mile psycho! That guy's paddling style, with his neck lurching out with every stroke, is unreal. He is part machine, I', told. I pity the fool who ever drops in on that guy.
-dem

Posted by: Douglas at December 13, 2002 12:09 PM

There is no mistaking the 4Mile psycho! That guy's paddling style, with his neck lurching out with every stroke, is unreal. He is part machine, I', told. I pity the fool who ever drops in on that guy.
-dem

Posted by: Douglas at December 13, 2002 12:09 PM

There is no mistaking the 4Mile psycho! That guy's paddling style, with his neck lurching out with every stroke, is unreal. He is part machine, I', told. I pity the fool who ever drops in on that guy.
-dem

Posted by: Douglas at December 13, 2002 12:09 PM

There is no mistaking the 4Mile psycho! That guy's paddling style, with his neck lurching out with every stroke, is unreal. He is part machine, I', told. I pity the fool who ever drops in on that guy.
-dem

Posted by: Douglas at December 13, 2002 12:10 PM

Huh? How'd I triple post??? That was weird. Sorry...

Posted by: Douglas at December 13, 2002 12:11 PM

didn't mind the triple post, douglas

reinforced your point

bojon

Posted by: bojon at December 13, 2002 01:46 PM

Let it snow, let it snow, let it snow...

Posted by: caveman at December 13, 2002 02:36 PM

That is Honolua Bay, my friend. I caught the longest wave of my life there. See where that second wave is breaking - just inside of Coconuts? (the first point) I took off there, and just pumped it for all I was worth. It took me past the second point, into that next bay, and all the way to the "boat ramp," which is about where those palm trees sticking out are.
I finally wiped out because I was getting dangerously close to an overhanging tree branch and took my eyes off the wave for a second. It clipped me and dragged me across some coral, but I was just cracking up laughing underwater. Great pic, just seeing it gets me SO stoked! Mahalo.

P.S. It went flat a few days later and I snorkeled it. You know the Cave of Death? Man, it really is just as gnarly as they say. Big ol' elkhorn coral just waiting to grab you and your board and shred you like taco meat. Wish I hadn't done that...

Posted by: cazart at December 13, 2002 04:12 PM

wow.. cazart! you're are obviously correct on the honolua call. wish that i could say i've surfed it but i've never even been to maui.. your super-long ride there sounds amazing! nice work!! It definitely is a aesthetically beautiful wave.. and i agree that this picture really captures it.. well.. except for the swell being meager..

there is a great Honolua scene in Volcom's Computer Body surf vid.. Gavin Beschen just tearing it up all smooth..

just a classic classic wave..

e

Posted by: e at December 13, 2002 04:39 PM

for what it's worth, i too caught the longest ride of my life at honolua bay

Posted by: bojon at December 13, 2002 06:14 PM

What's cool about that place is the scraps. You can let the locals sit on the first peak and you can go off and grovel for scraps...and they're the best freakin' scraps you've ever gotten in your life. I'm talkin' 75 yard-long scraps. Dem's some good scraps.
Also, that cliff over the Cave - locals will set up beach chairs for da wives and chat with them while they wait. The really cool wives will even go, "Eh! Outside!" Plus it's the best place to watch people surf ever. (Pipe excepted.)

Posted by: cazart at December 13, 2002 07:44 PM

Yo Yo,

Been out of the water for a while now with a sore leg since a longboarder decided to run me over in Bondi in Australia. Missed out on a 1.5 overhead barreling day at Bondi, but that's life I guess. At least my leg isn't broken, as I thought it might have been.

In New Zealand now... here's the surf check.

Got to a beach called Hot Water Beach yesterday about 2:00 and was just blown away. White sand beach, aqua marine water, off-shore winds howling and barreling chest-high A-frames peeling down the beach with no one on them. I almost cried since I didn't have my board with (left it in Australia since it would have been too much trouble to drag along on the plane/ferry rides -- a friend is gonna bring it back).

Oh, and to top if off, the beach is called Hot Water Beach because of the hot springs that well up on the beach. Turns out that on a low tide you can dig a hole that turns into a hot tub as the hot water fills it up.

All I can say is "unreal." Oh, and to top if off, all of this beauty, is surrounded by New Zealand's unbelievable majesty.

I'm not coming back.

Posted by: dano at December 13, 2002 11:15 PM

that was the most amazing creative blast of a surf report i have ever read. totally hilarious.
we want more of that caliber...

anyway, thanks for the good little reports and fun journal entries.

see you in the water.

aloha!

Posted by: trimmer at December 14, 2002 12:11 AM

On a day like today, the only thing to be done is to ogle (or google) OB.

I saw this site yesterday and thought you guys might enjoy it. The guy has photographed the entire coast of California from a helicopter. Click on the map to see individual spots.

http://www.californiacoastline.org/cgi-bin/lookupform.cgi

Dano, I surfed NZ around this time last year. Was the hot water beach on the North Island? We surfed at Raglan and had a great time.

Posted by: rodes at December 14, 2002 04:22 PM

rodes -- Great link! Wanna play "Spot the Surfer!"? This one's easy:

http://www.californiacoastline.org/cgi-bin/image.cgi?image=5920&mode=sequential&flags=0

Posted by: mwsf at December 14, 2002 06:37 PM

Rodes,

Yup, Hot Water Beach is on the North Island on the east side.

Been out of the water for two weeks now. I need a session. Looks like I'll make it back to Cali in time for some great rainy, stormy days... time to break out the DVDs and dream.

Absolutely positively coming back to Oz and NZ on a future surf trip.

-D

Posted by: dano at December 15, 2002 06:43 PM

dude honolua bays is one of the best surfing spots i have surferd in the world! surfs UP!

Posted by: lauren hayes at March 8, 2004 02:16 PM

**2**

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