E's Surf Report: big, jarbled but fun

check out this image of the north pacific (projected a couple days from now)!
npac juice

cruised the beach this morning jonesin' for surf after two days off.. things didn't look that inviting with 5 or 6 rows of whitewater and messy/hard-to-see-clearly A-frames out the back. VFWs looked the most organized so i suited up and hit it. 30 or 40 duckdives later i was in the linup.. along with the 1 or 2 other people along the whole stretch of beach. Conditions were actually pretty clean on the outside.. with a faint SE breeze grooming and massaging the surface.. It felt like a new swell in the water, as the character of the waves was different than that of last weekend.. thick walls were cruising in and either throwing out serious throaty barrels or just backing off and mushing out.. or both.. You definitely had to be in the money spot to get into the buggers and find sections... I managed a few frontside rides and 3 or 4 backsiders in a little over an hour. nothing amazing but enough to fuel a surf-stoked day here at work. I'd say the biggest waves on the outside were easily overhead... and the swell is thick and serious. 12 oclock 3 foot low tide.. might see the north-santa-cruz-county reefs and points light up? 10ft 13sec at the SF buoy right now.. 19ft 11sec at the Papa.. hmm.. my recommendation would be to get in as much surf as you can right now before this storm system washes us away this weekend..

I guess that Lisa Bonet (aka Denise Huxtable) was spotted at Lower Trestles during the contest a month or two ago.. a guy from Transworld surf asked her a few questions and she had some cool things to say:

So how did you end up here today?
I'm an aspiring surfer, and I just have a lot of admiration for what these guys are doing. I think for my own life, I'm looking for some type of mastery. When I look at what these guys have accomplished and what's happening in the water right now with the surfers, it really ignites that sense of something very powerful happening between nature and humans. I'm just in total admiration of these guys and the focus and the letting go - all at the same time. Just that contact with nature... it's deep.

go Denise!!!

also check out these shots that our boy Kaiser took in South Africa..
Kaiser in South Africa

Kaiser in South Africa

also check out some pics of Thanksgiving Ocean Beach sent to me by Steve Lovell

siiick!