E's Surf Report

E,

Good to hear you are back and out catching some waves. I keep waiting for some here but this lousy cold doesn't want to make me paddle out. Plus it has been flat for about 2 weeks with the exception of about 3 hours on early Saturday morning and after getting in Fri night at about 5:30am and being in absolutely no condition to don all the neoprene and hassle with the wind chill, I decided to go and sleep that night off. The show I played was real fun. Sick, Sick musicians that I played with. There were 3 horn players which consisted of various horns(trumpet, all sax's, bass clarinet, flute, trombone) plus drums, upright bass, guitar, and a very sick Percussionist from NYC. The next night was almost as much fun as i played with a gig with 2 bass players(electric and upright), an organ player, drums, and another horn player besides myself. Plus my friend was laying down some freestyle at times over the music.

Well have fun and enjoy the surf to everybody. There sure isn't much happening wave wise on this side of the coast. I NEED WAVES!!!!!!

Marc.. sounds like those gigs were super fun!! right on my bruddah!! keep up the jamming!! that shit is definitely "the source!!"

i know what you mean about east coast surf.. it was SOOO PENALIZINGLY COLD over Thanksgiving that i couldn't really fathom paddling out unless it was absolutely firing.. which.. it didn't seem to be.. it's sooo rough to be an east coast surfer.. you just have to accept the fact that for most of the year you're only going to be able to surf a few times a week.. but.. when the waves come.. the stoke is SOOO HIGH!! same with east coast mountain sports... the snow and mountain heighth just suck compared to out west.. east coast gets the bum wrap.. but.. better than the midwest or the south..

dano! thanks for the OZ report.. sounds awesome!! left point break in emerald green water!! umm.. sign me up!!! seriously!!!

Tom!! sorry i didn't respond to the email you sent me a few weeks back.. didn't mean to diss you homie! the info you sent was much appreciated!

back to shwork for me..

e

Checked the Beach, saw some nice clean head-high peelers, felt rumblings from the super colon blow I ate before heading out, cruised over to e & lerm's to perpetrate some serious damage on their bowl, drove down to Lindy, saw it flat as a lake with very occasional waist-high sets cruising through north of Crespi, drove back towards the Beach, realized I needed to go to work, and headed home without getting wet. Gah!

Andy Irons world champion! just clinched it at Sunset as Luke Egan fails to advance..

MWers.. what up BIATCH!! droppin' off the kids at our house.. hope it doesn't smell when i get home!!! haa!!
nice work!

e

e, I didn't know you worked at Sierra Club, that's cool, I'm a member. I like your surf reports, especially when you post some snaps of ye olde home break.

I would like to post a request to all surfers here because I'm working on an important mystery: On the afternoon of Monday November 25, my friend was gored by a KOOK who was out of control in a 6-foot high wall of closeout whitewater (8-10 foot surf). For some reason he felt compelled to keep riding an enormous-but-long-finished wave and then rode directly into my friend Dagan, who tried to duck him in vane at the last moment. This dumb-ass saw Dagan form a distance, and apparently thought he was going to be fancy and buzz my bro. Well, the board cracked Dagan's coccyx before impaling itself into his back (NO Nose-Guard, ALL point), creating a huge hole next to his spine that an entire gold ball could fit inside. It was so deep it narrowly missed internal organs like his kidney. The KOOK was ordered by a flailing, bleeding Dagan to help him to the beach, but being the lightweight PUSS that he was, he ran away before Dagan could get his information. Dagan was transported to the hospital via ambulance and required many stiches (inside and outside) to fix his gaping flesh wound that nearly hit his spinal cord. Dagan is now laid up and in a very very bad way, physically. Needless to say, he is feeling quite angry. He's livid that someone would skulk away from the harm they caused in order to duck any responsibility. If ANYONE HAS ANY INFO on this guy (he rides a Sol surfboard with the "sunburst" logo on the front top, stands about 6'0" and is a dark-complexioned caucasion -- is all we know), or knows of this incident, please post here or contact me at my email -- a very unfair thing has occurred here and this coward needs to be identified and held reponsible for some of his out-of-control kook actions (and the medical bill -- Dagan is uninsured). A lot of guys helped Dagan in the parking lot, one of you called 911, WE NEED YOUR HELP to find the guy who shirked his moral responsibility and bailed on the person he harmed at OB. Dagan was in a shock/daze and forgot to get the info from the guy, and he noticed the guy took off as soon as someone said they called 911. What a dick! Thanks for any replies, hints or info on this incident -- I promised my friend I'd try and search for the guy who ran him over.

PS: If you don't know what you're doing in heavy OB surf, and have poor control skills, please please PLEASE do not paddle out just ot impress your bros, your girl, your narcissistic EGO, whatever it is that makes your reasoning disconnnect itself -- as this incident proves, it can easily lead to injury or (damn near) paralyzation.

Thank you very much e and the e community!
-Douglas M., SF

Forgot to mention: the incident occurred at VFW, between Beach Chalet and Lincoln. Thx, Douglas

damn douglas! that's some heavy shit! man.. that sucks so bad for your friend.. i surfed on the 25th but in the morning.. I'll keep an eye out for the out-of-control guy on the Sol board.. Whenever i see an impending collision i just tense up inside and hope that nothing happens.. usually nothing does.. but.. in this case.. damn.. well.. at least it sounds like your friend will be surfing again in the not-too-distant future..

may he recover speedily!!!

e

Damn, bad story from Douglas. That really sucks that someone would do that kook or no kook. I wish I has some info for you bro but I was outta town. I will do the same and keep an eye out as I see SOL boards from time to time in the water. Wishing your bro a speedy recovery.

On another note, glad to be back in the bay! Just got off the plane and I ready to hit it up out here as I have been reading the report from South Africa over the last week and a half! Sounds like some decent swell has moved through.

What is tomorrow shaping up to be? E, whatcha got for me?

Kaiser,

How was South Africa? I have been saving up money to take a trip there for a surf as it seems there is none to be had on the east coast. Look forward to hearing anything about your trip. Thanks.

Ethan,

Your comment about the shark net between Seal Rock and Fort Funston. Where did you get that info? Would be stoked to figure this out.

mark

Mark,

Yeah, more than happy to let you in on what I found out. Sick waves there but I was only in Cape Town. More later and maybe I will send some pictures over as well as full summery.

All in all, you can't go wrong in South Africa. There is so much coastline. Cold water (colder than here right now!), warm water, barrelling waves, J-Bay (nuff said), beautiful women everywhere!

Keep saving, go when you can.

Kaiser

Kaiser.. looks like tomorrow morning will be fun at OB.. probably a bit of the same as today - smaller and inconsistent.. but we're supposed to have some more south wind.. which may or may not be that schweet.. here's some words from surfline..

"Wave heights will slowly start to come back up as new WNW swell (285-300) starts to fill in through the day on Wednesday and then combines with another stronger WNW swell (275-295) Thursday/Friday. More WNW swell will be on tap for the weekend from a storm developing NW of Hawaii." ...

soo.. looks like more waves!! can't complain.. blakestah predicts that the winds might switch around to onshore for thursday/friday.. soo. that might suck.. but..

Kaiser.. if you have some pics and words.. i would love to craft a little "Kaiser's South Africa Trip" page on niceness.org for ya and link it to E's surf report.. kinda keep it as a permanent thing?? let me know.. or just send me some pics and words to cranial_bulge@yahoo.com..

I'm working on developing a little "local's corner" section of E's surf report.. with interviews and photos and trip reports from all of you heads!! soo.. i'll keep y'all in the loop!

markus.. about the shark net.. as much as i sorta wish there did exist a shark net between seal rock and fort funston.. i was joking my friend.. sorry 'bout that.. it would suck to imagine our little seal friends and dolphins and such getting stuck in there.. I'm pretty sure that they do, in fact, have shark nets near Durban, South Africa, and also a few places in Oz..

eeee

Flat today in Oz (at least at Bondi and vicinity). One good thing about Bondi, besides the bazillion kooks in the water that is, is the fact that you can surf in the windiest of conditions… kind of weird, since all the surf that I have seen in Cali sure can’t handle 30-knot onshore winds. Must be because Bondi is sort of sheltered in a cove. You still get “Victory at Sea” chop, but it remains surfable – at least for the hardcore and hardup.

Talking about getting smacked by a kook, I got dropped on top of by not one or two, but three longboarders during one of my first sessions out at Bondi. None of them were gonna make the wave since they were all way too deep, but they all went anyway. Had to bail off of my board to save my life and got SMACKED in the leg that I broke when I was 6 or so. Unfortunately, it still really hurts… that deeeeep pain that may be the indication of bad thangs. Hoping it gets better, since I was planning on lots of hiking in New Zealand. Man, I know that I look ahead of me every time I get ready to drop, and anytime someone is in front of me and I feel I am not gonna 100% stick the drop, I pass on the wave. Better a million passed waves than running someone down.

Since it was sooo flat this morning, I went to a yoga class instead. Man, that stuff is hard work. Really lets you know how out of shape you are. I especially love the stiggpainIcantstretchthatfarra pose. Get down to your nearest yoga studio if you’re serious about being fit for life.

E, props for working at the Sierra Club. Your karma will be strong. I’ll try to send some pics of Oz/NZ if any of them turn out any good when I return to Cali.

Gotta get some Vegemite on my toast,

-Dano

P.S. Hope Dagan makes a complete and quick recovery.

E, I think I have a bunch of old wetsuits if you need the neoprene for your rashie.

seals, longboarders, most bodyboarders, groms, emits and ALL surf life saving people all realy realy realy suck ass big style!

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