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clean... thumping... serious

full-moon dinner and hike last night with Tory.. segue into late-night chillage... segue into 5:30 reveille in Berkeley.. feel the offshores in the brisk, dark, east-bay pre-dawn.. cruise across the bridge and see a few meteors rocket through the sky.. jam home and i'm in the sloat parking lot at 6:12.. just enough light to paddle out and i'm looking at super-glassy head-high barrelling waves. things look relatively mellow from the parking lot, or at least not gruesomely hard-core.. so i suit up and sprint to the waters edge.. start paddling, do a few duck dives and.. DAMN!! there is some power to these waves!! 25 minutes later.. the sun is peaking up.. and i'm STILL PADDLING OUT!!! seriously took me forever to get out there.. but once out.. I stroked into many super-glassy, pitching ground-swell waves.. Waves were flowing in and totally jacking up and throwing out cavernous pits all over the place.. I witness some of the widest, thickest, gnarliest barrels i've ever seen in my life this morning!!! Saw a few throw out wider than they were tall! seriously! Only 5 of us out at Sloat all morning, and three of those were boogies.. where was everybody??? dunno but i wasn't complaining.. I caught mostly rights.. suck-out drops followed by ledgy, racy walls.. i did a few soul-gratifying, thigh-burning cutties.. and managed to avoid any serious poundings..

it's real good out there!! especially if you're a ripper.. big gaping barrels to be had!

i also surfed Sloat yesterday afternoon and caught some super-fun, long-peeling bombies! shit's been good!!

e

I had an amazing hour long session out at Ortega. Only a few guys out as well. I also had a helluva paddle out. The white water looked mellow, but once I was under it I was struggling to keep a hold of my board. Got probably the steepest drop of my life on a suckout barrel and maybe even a little cover up. Not sure though. Raining offshores. GO GET SOME!

Posted by: lerm at November 19, 2002 09:49 AM

Still happening. If you want to get a barrel, today is your day. Found myself in one so tall I had to crane my neck to see the roof. And that was at little ol' VFW, at high tide. Serious.

Pleasant surprise -- ran into Cloudie getting dressed in the lot. He also reports he had a fine time.

A friend of mine sent me this story. Thought you might like it.
----------------
I had an interesting experience at FP last night. three of us were getting in at the north rock at just about dusk, joining a tight pack of 8 or 9 guys. every last one of them was yelling obscenities at us before even our toes were wet. once in, some were glaring others shouting, but one of them really confronted me... asking what we were thinking. and eventually telling me I was blackballed there for talking back. well, as it turned out, the three of us just kept it positive.. really quickly I found myself deep in the inside takeoff spot in a sizable wave and took it.... one of those rock dodging starts that turns into a good ride...(with all those guys staring from the bowl!) anyway we managed to get our share of waves and stayed well after dark... pretty soon a van in the lot turned its lights onto the waves and it really helped. what a great time!

after clamoring out of the water with a real stoke on, we came up to the car that was lighting up the place. it was the chief heckler. he and his buddies stayed so that they could light up the waves for us and to apologize. he said if we see them out next time to come out and join them. surreal.
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Posted by: robme at November 19, 2002 11:45 AM

nice work getting your mojo back Lerm! that's good news! also nice on the probable cover up.. word!!

Kus.. sounds like you and Marc had a great arvo glass-off seshy jersey style! siiick! I've see some super-tasty east-coast pics lately.. looks like you heads have been enjoying some fun fall conditions.. but all the east-coasters on the surfermag discussion board are complaining about the plummeting water temps. hopefully i'll be able to deal with my 4/3 suit and hooded rashy come Christmas.. I'm hoping to get a few jams in, as i'll be jonesing my face off, expecially knowing that my west coast brethren will be getting legit groundswells to ride... i'm looking forward to a point pleasant shred-fest!

e

Posted by: e at November 19, 2002 11:48 AM

soo. Robme.. did you make it out of that stand-up barrel?

crazy fort point story.. I actually checked FP and Deadman's yesterday arvo and neither were working.. i saw about 6 or 7 guys in the water at FP and couldn't really believe it as the waves were measly.. must have been the same hecklers/jokers.. it's a shame for them.. 'cause Sloat was firing!

e

Posted by: e at November 19, 2002 02:36 PM

No, not I. I have no doubt a better surfer would have easily. It was sooo big and cavernous I kinda got scared and spazzed out in the face. I think a couple or 3 good pumps, and blam, I'da been out. I just kinda stood there like a deer caught in head lights and got crushed. You know, it wasn't the beautiful awe-inspiring green room experience that you hear about. For one thing, it was super thick and so the wall, instead of translucent emerald juice, was this ugly opaque olive drab. It just shut out the sun, got about 5 degrees colder. All I could see was the edge of the wall going up and up and up and Mt Tam on the other side of the bay. I stupidly looked up to see the top, way over me. It was at that point that I became petrified. I tried to keep as close to the wall as possible when I should have been pumping like crazy. Next thing I knew I was sliding way up the face, then upside down, then under water for a long while. But I didn't hit the sandbar or anything. Kook :)

I imagine Sloat on the lower tide this morning was just thickkkk. It looks like it is starting to get pretty hollow as we speak.

Posted by: robme at November 19, 2002 02:58 PM

nice recounting of your barrel experience Robme! sounds like you were deep deep in the bowels of the beast! siiiiiick!! next time you know you'll be gunnin' for daylight instead of awestruck and pummelled.

I failed to stuff myself into any pits this morning :(

but both Robme and Lerm succeeded!! good day for niceness.org locals!

Tom? Kaiser? Bojon? Caveman? MWSF? Scott? any of you heads get shacked today?

wish that i could hit up seshy 2 right now but mine arse is workin'.. then heavy "Premonition" band practice tonight.. we're trying out a new bass player.. anybody out there play bass and want to join a jam/rock/funk band

Posted by: e at November 19, 2002 03:24 PM

E, let me save you the time and the day dreams of going back out. I just did a fly by on OB from VFW's to Sloat and although it looked sick out there, you had to navigate 5 lines or more of white water to get there. There might have been 10 people out that I could see on the entire beach. 3 dudes were headed out at 2nd Sloat with their guns. I wish I had a jetski to save me from the paddle. Whatever, it looked good if you could get. Yeah, it was also 70 degrees and offshore still though.

Didn't crack it this a.m. but I will be on it at first light manana for sure!

Sick stretch of waves we have had.

Posted by: Kasier at November 19, 2002 04:15 PM

Yo,

Great stories of today's surf!! Unfortunately, I was trapped inside today.

Tomorrow sounds like it might be killa too.

-Dano

Posted by: Dano at November 19, 2002 05:16 PM

can i get a by pass around the name and email section of this report? how do i do that?

Woke to bouys of 6.3@12 on the high tide and since i love Ocean Beach on the outgoing and had some plans with some bros I hit up a high tide reef in San Mateo County. Waves were going off. Overhead by far.... and glassy.

Thought for sure that OB was going to be a hollow fest in the shldr-hd. range all afternoon and I'd get tons of waves and be chilling with brews, bragging and looking for single ladies who were out for the warm weather and ridicky sunsets we've been having but......

I rounded the Grt Hwy corner like Bobby Weir sang so many times and years ago and was like holy shit!

The surf was going off! Double o' head for sure and bigger! All the guys coming out said the surf doubled in size in like an hour. I saw this guy drop in to a FUCKING BOMB and bottom turn and a 50 yard section broke. He straightened out and rode for as long as he could, stumbled and was gone. Next you saw his board bounce way up over the 8+ whitewater. He swam in (over the next 10 mins) and sure enough it was Brazo Alex. I met up with him and I was like fuck Alex that shit was a bomb! He said "thank you".

I said if you want you can take my big wave leash. (I wasn't going to be needing it!) So he did and was back down the cliff after telling me that the leash breaker was his 5th wave! He grabbed 6 more while I watched with the binocs including a tube right and a looong had to be tubed left with pumps in the face on his 8 ft Brewer.

I went to VFW's and headed out on my 7'10" with my shortboard leash (alex had the other one) and didnt make a section you rippers would have found a tube in) and felt that skinny leash stretch and hated how close it kept the board to me. The wave was solid overhead so even VFW's was feeling the punch. After that paddle out I was yelling to a buddy hello and then turned and faced this wave that was pissed. I threw down a sick duck dive after some ferocious paddling and went out way further and drifted more towards the bluffs and Lincoln way or blvd. with my budddy.

Grabbed a legit bomb from that spot and then it seemed to quickly drop off in size and consistency close to that dead low tide?!

Tomorrow should be smaller. Stormsurf called this a quick windswell?

Shit.....we got surf here.

e....I wanna join the Pt Pleasant surf session! I'm there. Don't know where my gloves have gone to though.....

Posted by: tom at November 20, 2002 12:03 AM

I hit VFW's yesterday a little before 4pm (another day of "working" from home). Paddle wasn't too bad - just long. Serious bombs were dropping everywhere. I had my 6'10" and was wishing for a bit more board. I was way outside when a set wave started breaking north and sectioning my way. Looked at the beast and thought "I might be able to catch this." Started paddling and the freight train bunched underneath me. Late drop down the face and was outracing the section right behind me. The rumbling white water behind had some serious size. Kicked out as the wave gave out in the inside.

One of those waves that you don't expect to catch and then your legs start shaking a little as you paddle back out to the lineup. Caught four more - skipped down the face of one when I lost my balance hitting some chop - and then the tide killed the outside around 5pm.

Finally got down to business and ordered up two new boards from M10 - a 7'0" and a 7'8". With thicker rails than my San Diego boards - it's just a whole different beast up here. Hope that will get me through the winter.

Woke up at 2am with a painful ear infection. Dunno if it's surf related. But I'm out of the water for a few days.

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