small and fun.. yesterday epic
last remnants of the dwindling swell today. Crowded scene up and down OB. Lerm and i surfed Ortega for about 2 hours as the tide came up.. The situation was pretty flat with the exception of 2 or 3 set waves that cruised through every 7 minutes or so. A few of the lefts successfully reared up and funnelled along, offering some enjoyable rides and excruciatingly smackable lips.. I had one ride where i pig-dogged the steep take-off.. then frothed to see a long, tapering wall of wave stretched out ahead of me. I've had the tendency recently to bog my inside rail while doing backside bottom turns but on this wave i was well-balanced and carved through a couple of feel-good bottom-turn/top-turn combos. I performed a few gratifying top-turns and cutbacks today. The kind where you really feel the exertion and opposing pressure of the wave pushing back against your rail and legs and back.. A few times today the experience of that feeling literally sent chills of pleasure through my mind and body.. To be able to press hard through a turn and feel the physical dynamics of the elliptical carve through water. gotta love it..
Yesterday (Saturday) proved pretty all time out at good ol' OB.. Morning session offshore and unbelievably rippable. Caught about 40 rides out at Lawton in almost 3 hours.. then came back and crashed super-hard for 2 hours.. woke up.. puffed.. headed back out to Santiago for a little stony surfing.. Some combination of the ganja coursing through my blood-stream, the fact that i'd already surfed 3 hours that day, and the clean, ground-swelly, head-high, chunky conditions instilled in me a rhythmic, subconcious flow and movement throughout my session... My mental state was relaxed, i didn't feel the usual need to "get as many waves as possible!!".. The outcome of this flowing state was that i basically ripped harder than i ever have before.. On this one right I made the ledgy drop.. then found myself perfectly balanced and ready to pounce.. i immediately rushed up to the lip and laid down this quick, resounding snap off the top that send a big fan of spray out the back.. i was immediately back into the wave and pumping.. looking for the next section to hit.. just shit like that all session. I was Stizz-oked.. then sushi at Ebisu with a cutie named Tory.. some beers and laughs.. it was a good day!
hope y'all are enjoying some fun weekend slurf..