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solid..

good conditions at Ortega this morning.. a bit of a wait for waves but head-high groundswell pulsing in every 5 or 10 minutes.. grey, overcast sky over a grey, bumpy ocean. The waves had power but seem to have diminished since yesterday.. Most of the waves had nice shoulders too, with steep, thick walls and a few dirty barrels. I drove down to Sloat first, then down to Ortega.. It seemed that conditions were much better in the middle of the beach.. waves were bigger and had better shape.. This one Latino guy (brazilian??) that i always see at OB and Deadmans was out and he was just killing it! Huge air drops into giant gaffs then two or three more gaffs, then a speedy roundhouse... all on one wave i saw him catch.. that guy rips! I caught a few nice ones myself... did a nice, sweeping backhand gauge, also a fun, speedy frontside cutback that felt good.. but then i got into a rut for the last 30 minutes of the session.. i felt like all the waves were breaking a little too far this way, or a bit out of my range that way.. I was getting frustrated and losing my flow... then this behemoth right rears up for me and i spin and go.. but just get launched over the falls and held down for a while.. had to consciously stay relaxed and perform the Robme technique of counting under water to remain calm.. finally popped up and decided to call it a sesh..

really good today.. probably will continue throughout the day.. it also looked good yesterday evening... I skated down Ortega to check it, thinking it would be crap.. then saw some nice, ridable bombs cruising in.. should be barrelling for the afternoon low tide.. wish i could hit that shit..

e

yup....that was my buddy alex.

he's one of the brazilians i mentioned in an earlier thread but he is absolutely the nicest guy.

he was a top junior surfer in brzil and came to sf about 7 years ago to try and get sponsors and stuff but , big ob, deadmans, scotts and for the last few years mavs....let's just say he is a soul surfer now....he does the local contests and even won the hmb one at montara a few years ago (beating flea, ruffo, met etc...

great guy and a powerful surfer.....it makes noise when he hits it.

Posted by: tom at October 17, 2002 10:59 AM

no way! good knowledge Tom.. and you're right, he's a super nice guy.. One time i was out with him at Deadmans and it was really going.. big and barrelling.. and he was absolutely killing it! getting deep barrels and then crunching the lip.. I saw him in the parking lot after the sesh and went up to him and told him that he was killing it and he said thanks.. then since then he's had a big hello for me everytime i see him.. It seems like he's still super psyched on surfing too.. i see him out during questionable conditions, even small days, and he looks like he's amping! it's good to see that!

nice to hear that he beat flea and ruffo and the santa cruz crew and montara.. nice work!

anyhoo..

Posted by: e at October 17, 2002 11:50 AM

Hit Lindy with Lerm this morning. No wind. Glassy with most waves around chest-high. Some nice peelers but a lot of closeouts. A bit of a crowd although it was easy to get your own space. It was a good day to be out.

Posted by: mwsf at October 17, 2002 04:11 PM

Forcast?
How do you think Sat. and Sun. are coming togther?
Looks like a big swell.
s

Posted by: s at October 17, 2002 04:45 PM

he's out there everyday......and he was back on it today at 230.....i took a pass as it was windy and bumpy blowing out of the west. but not alex.

so yeah....he's always surfing.

he likes the middle of the beach but hunts for shape up and down the beach so he's everywhere.

he's an early bird like you and doesnt give a shit what the tide is doing. he "right tides it" on his second sessh usually.

he's shy so say hello to him first and he's immediately a bro...

Posted by: tom at October 17, 2002 05:36 PM

Fulton was downright nasty yesterday and blown out. So i got out and drove down to Linda Mar in my wetsuit. anyone ever down that? it makes for great times. Sloat looked like fun but i didn't want to risk getting skunked again.

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